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Registered User
Zoo med uth
I cant seem to get the temperatures down with my uths on a 40gal and 25gal tank. I use my thermometer probe to check the temp and it reads around 100-101 on 40 gal and about the same give or take a few degrees for the 25gal. When i touch the glass with my bare finger its really hot. Ive tried adding more aspen bedding over the pad area to see if that would lower the temp but it doesnt. Would a thin towel placed over glass under bedding be a good idea? Also if you guys could give me suggestions on good uth controllers that will work with the zoo med brand. Ive read some reviews about the zoo med brand and heard alot more negatives than positives. Any help appreciated thanks!
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Greetings!!
Here's the thermostat I use: http://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-MTPR.../dp/B000NZZG3S
It's not too expensive, and once you get the temps dialed in it works like a champ
You're looking to get the temps around 92-88 on the warm side of the tank, and these guys do that just fine
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Registered User
Re: Zoo med uth
Are you sure itll work? Do you have a zoo med uth? Not being rude at all i just want to make sure it works before i spend the money. Spent quite alot the past few days lol
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As long as your zoo-med has a standard cord on the end (2- or 3- pronged) it should work...
CRYSTAL MEPH
1.0 100% Het for Carmel Normal–Mycroft (P. regius)
1.2 Manx, Scottish Fold, Tabby–Mocha, Precious, Kitty-Beau (F. domesticus)
30.90 Breeder Mice (M. musculus)
"It will all be okay in the end. If it's not okay, its not the end"
–John Lennon//oo\\
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Registered User
Re: Zoo med uth
I have used a hydro farm on a 40 gallon works like a charm by far the best thermostat under 50$ on the market of course there are much higher end thermostats out there this one will do exactly what you need it to with ease just make sure to cont monitoring your temps as they have a slightly larger fluctuation margin +- about 3°
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Registered User
I use ZooMed UTH on my makeshift snake tubs and terrarium. Have them both hooked up to a herpstat and they heat just fine. I get a steady 90-91 reading on my herpstat with +/- a degree on digital thermometers slotted in the same area as well. I had no trouble bumping them up to 95 or as low as 85 with the herpstat. Definitely use a thermostat of some sort with any UTH. I have the hydrofarm ready just in case and I use it when I travel to shows and have to stay for a couple days in an area. Its temp probe isn't that accurate but it still offers some control on the heating.
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Re: Zoo med uth
Originally Posted by Kevin.thatcher
I cant seem to get the temperatures down with my uths on a 40gal and 25gal tank. I use my thermometer probe to check the temp and it reads around 100-101 on 40 gal and about the same give or take a few degrees for the 25gal. When i touch the glass with my bare finger its really hot. Ive tried adding more aspen bedding over the pad area to see if that would lower the temp but it doesnt. Would a thin towel placed over glass under bedding be a good idea? Also if you guys could give me suggestions on good uth controllers that will work with the zoo med brand. Ive read some reviews about the zoo med brand and heard alot more negatives than positives. Any help appreciated thanks!
Originally Posted by Kevin.thatcher
Are you sure itll work? Do you have a zoo med uth? Not being rude at all i just want to make sure it works before i spend the money. Spent quite alot the past few days lol
Adding more bedding over a heat mat that is already too hot will not change its out put. I hope you either do not have an animal in there OR you have unplugged the mat till you can properly regulate it. The only way to regulate a heat mat is with a thermostat or lamp dimmer.
You can add whatever you want for substrate but you ball python will burrow and more than likely you will be looking at a new post and vet visit to solve that problem.
I would also venture to say that most of the bad reviews you have read on ZooMed and similar mats are from people trying to run them unregulated, or those that think they will supply more than just a hot spot. They are not designed to raise ambient temps either.
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The Following User Says Thank You to PitOnTheProwl For This Useful Post:
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Registered User
A note about Hydofarms.
I use one now, and I kinda wish I'd invested in something more expensive. Hydrofarms regulate the temperature by shutting the heat pad off and then turning it back on again, whereas most other thermostats control the wattage output of the heat pad, very much like dimming a lightbulb. (As Pit said, you can even use a light dimmer in place of a thermostat. But I would recommend a stat over a light dimmer)
Becase of this method, the Hydrofarms can cause temperature fluctuations. Let's say you have it set at 90 degrees. The temperature will swing from 87.9 to 91.3 (the highest I've seen it), then back down, then back up, etc.
Once you've been running it a while, this isn't a problem. But it takes a while for this range to be reached. Do not put your snake in the tank using a Hydrofarm until you're consistently reading the temps you want (on the low end of the flux and on the high end).
I think it took mine roughly 24 hours. And during that time, I got some wild temperatures. The temperature you'll need to set a Hydrofarm at will depend partly on what substrate you're using. Some substrates insulate very well against a UTH, some don't block against the heat at all. So please keep in mind that you'll have to do some experimenting before it'll be ready for your snake.
Last edited by Capt.Britain; 01-21-2014 at 11:19 AM.
Reason: repeat post
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That is what an on/off style does. The is also pulse and dimming models of stat. They all have a purpose.
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