Vote for BP.Net for the 2013 Forum of the Year! Click here for more info.

» Site Navigation

» Home
 > FAQ

» Online Users: 3,127

1 members and 3,126 guests
Most users ever online was 6,337, 01-24-2020 at 04:30 AM.

» Today's Birthdays

None

» Stats

Members: 75,137
Threads: 248,577
Posts: 2,569,034
Top Poster: JLC (31,651)
Welcome to our newest member, dangereux
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 14 of 14
  1. #11
    BPnet Veteran
    Join Date
    10-20-2003
    Location
    Los Angeles, Ca
    Posts
    254
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
    Hey Jonah,
    Thankyou for the awesome writeup on this topic !!! The information is going to really help me in my efforts to get my herps on pre-killed. I am going to let my snakes work up an appetite to get them good and hungry and I am then going to attempt to feed them utilizing the jiggle method....I think my big boy Apok will probably be the first to go for it because he gets crazy even SMELLING prey in the same room...he will lash out at thin air in his feeding frenzy...isnt that crazy for a Ball Python.??? Once again thanks for the info and wish me luck...

    EyeLashViper

  2. #12
    BPnet Veteran gen's Avatar
    Join Date
    02-25-2004
    Location
    California
    Posts
    969
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    Images: 22

    ball

    LUCK!!!
    1.0 Ball Python, Norbert
    0.1 Corn Snake, Nagini
    1.0 Brazilian Rainbow Boa, Peeves

  3. #13
    BPnet Veteran
    Join Date
    11-27-2003
    Location
    Indianapolis, Indiana
    Posts
    1,138
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    Images: 18
    Quote Originally Posted by Marla
    Excellent job, Jonah!

    Two minor additions to the info:
    1. Some snakes react better to more movement, some to less. You will have to figure out what works best for yours. I've had snakes that wouldn't even sniff prey until I walked away, and I've had snakes insist on dinner and a show.

    2. Normal body temp for rats and mice is the same as humans. Some snakes, including Tigergenesis', seem to prefer feverish rodents, but in the wild the rodents they'd be most likely to encounter would generally have a body temperature between 98F and 101F, so that should be your target temperature range, generally speaking.
    I can't emphasize Marla's point #2 enough. Just remember the key is to get them to recognize F/T as food. I used to have to measure the temp of my boy's food. Absolutely had to be a minium of 108 degrees outside body temp (then I had to make it 'dance' and drop it in front of him - he'd strike when it hit the ground) for him to even bat an eyelash - well, you know what I mean. 114 degrees and he would strike from the tongs immediately. After several months of this he will now take food at temps around 100 degrees right from the tongs. I just had to find what worked for him...my snakes are quirky. My BP is also 'potty trained'.
    Ball Python, Bredl's Carpet Python, Kenyan Sand Boa, Saharan Sand Boa
    Mexican Black King, California King, Snow Corn, Okeetee Corn, Everglades Ratsnake
    Blue Tongued Skinks: Irian Jaya (2), Indonesian, Northern, Tanimbar, Eastern, Kei, Merauke
    Crested Gecko

  4. #14
    BPnet Veteran
    Join Date
    03-22-2004
    Location
    St. Louis, MO
    Posts
    277
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    How did you measue the temp of your frosty rat??
    0.3 Leopard Gecko (Cricket, Princess, Kimberly) 0.1 Cat (Meechie) 1.1 kids and a hubby who has 1.0 red tail boa (Jay) 1.0 ball python (Silent Bob) and my daughter has 0.0.1 Bahama Anole (Liz) and 0.0.1 White Lined Gecko (Boots)

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v4.2.1