Alternative rack materials?

[Inarikins]

I think it's supposed to have a thicker veneer of birch, but I don't remember off the top of my head. I just worry that the 1/4" isn't going to be strong enough to support the weight...

[kingmatt336]

do they have this is so get 3 of them they hold 9 28qt bins each or 9 41 qt for 2 and screw a pice of board on the bottom of each and cut down pipes to size of tuibs like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DLDxk2yp2Vs

[Inarikins]

Looks like they do have the 1/2" baltic birch ply, it's just special order only. What a pain. At least we're not in a hurry.

Do you guys think a stain + poly combo will work, or should the poly be separate?

[Inarikins]

Any opinions on the stain/poly combo vs. stain and poly separate?

[youbeyouibei]

Any opinions on the stain/poly combo vs. stain and poly separate?

If you use poplar/birch ply, I'd steer clear of trying to stain it. Neither one of those take stain well without a topcoat sealant of some sort. The stain tends to "splotch" and look like crap once you're done. On the flip side, birch and poplar both take paint very well if you go that route rather than trying to stain it. Either one of those two woods would do well for a rack, especially if you get them as plywood. That would help the dimensional stability so the wood wouldn't expand/contract as much as what a solid board would (end checking and cupping/bowing, etc.). I personally wouldn't go less than 1/2" thick but that's just me. That would give a little more stability and keep the screws from tearing through as badly as they would if you used 1/4". If you're set on staining the wood rather than painting it, you could look for hardwood plywood: oak (red or white), mahogany, etc. Those would take stain better than what would poplar or birch but they're also more expensive and might be harder to find. I know Home Depot carries them but not sure on Mendards. Good luck and please share some photos when you get it built if you go that route.

[kitedemon]

youbeyouibei FYI Baltic birch is birch veneers no poplar, just birch in and out. It is far stronger than popular/fir plys like oak that is just a veneer layer. All the standard 'hardwood' plywoods are structurally popular or fir cores. Okoume and Mahogony are wicked expensive they are the marine grades. I have done a lot of work with both super strong and tough, but for example the last order of Brynzeel AAA was $120 a sheet. It is quite expensive hard to justify as full marine grade is way over kill.

I have never had an issue with staining BB ply. Although I like plain birch personally so I have only stained it a few times typically I just varnish it. I would not use a single stain varnish but a varnish over stain. You want the outside layer to be plastic with no dyes.

[Inarikins]

We will be going with the Baltic Birch. It just has to be special ordered, they don't carry the 1/2" in stock. And I guess we'll be doing the stain + poly route, thanks!

[PghBall]

My $50 Home Depot Shelving system made into a rack. Add Heat Tape, T-Stat, 32 qt locking tubs (cut legs of shelf to size).

[Raven01]

The only Baltic birch we found was 1/4" but we did decide on plain Birch 1/2" plywood and are going to make an 8-shelf 31-quart/6-quart combo rack. Is polyeuruthane enough to seal the wood or should we use something more specialized?

Diamond coat floor finish should work well.
It has the wear resistance you want for sliding tubs in and out.
Keep in mind while drying it will off gas VOC's so preferably should be allowed to dry for several days in a garage or shed away from yourself, pets and children.
If you don't like the look of plywood, you can paint before applying the floor finish.

[Inarikins]

Is one good, thick coat of poly enough or should I do a second coat? (Doesn't matter to me either way, I might do the second coat no matter what) Also as soon as it's done and put together I"ll make sure to take pics or do a video.