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Correction
Had to make a correction about a statement I made... Silver is a better conductor but is almost never used because how expensive it is.
My point still remains... that Calorique doesn't use silver bus lines as the video claimed.
The next best conductor is copper which is what is used on the THG Tape.
Last edited by Robin@Exclusive; 01-03-2013 at 08:17 PM.
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Registered User
Re: Heat Tape
Yes, silver is a very good conductor. The element we are selling has a silver paste used to make the connection between the copper and the black element lines. It is way to costly and not really necessary to use as buss bars though. Same reason you are not using silver wire in your house. The only explanation I was ever able to get on the nickel plating was that it prevents oxidation of the copper. Not sure why, the copper wire in house wiring oxidizes but that does not prove to be an issue in wire nut connections. Either way, the copper in heat tape is sealed up pretty good. I have some old (years) element I have been using without the nickel and it is not showing any signs of oxidation. Bot solder equally well if that s how you want to connect.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Reptilebasics For This Useful Post:
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Registered User
Re: Heat Tape
Getting tired and need to get some sleep before the plane ride tomorrow- I forgot to add to Robyn's point on the connectors. The new wire sets we just had made also provide a much needed strain relief on the wire itself by also clamping on to the insulation. They differ very slightly from the pics he put up, I will get new ones made shortly. This has been an issue in my mind with the AMP connectors, it is tricky to get a decent strain relief to take the stress off the copper wire in the cord. Over time with a bunch of wiggling this can be a problem. Fortunately that does not seem to be as big a problem in the reptile hobby as friction across the heat tape itself from tubs sliding in and out constantly. As Aaron pointed out early on, the new element has a much better feel to it. the laminate is a different material and during our examination seems to be every bit as durable, if not more so, as what we are used to. When you try out the new connections you will like them, no two ways about it. Ultra solid, super solid electrical connection, lower cost and lower profile for use in our hobby. I will roll them out this coming week when I get back.
I guess in all of this I would like to make something clear- maybe I am crazy for saying it but I have a pretty low BS threshold. I personally, and I think I speak for PE as well (Robyn?), am not trashing Calorique or their element. Quite the contrary, I was dragged into this by an over zealous internet expert who decided to let his mouth get a little ahead of his knowledge curve. He has told me that he revised his video btw- I have not checked it out yet. Fact is we have all been using the only product available to us for quite some time now. It works and in most situations works well. I do have an issue with being treated as an afterthought due to the industry I am in. Weeks on end without element because they are "too busy with export orders", product coming in trashed almost every time due to complete failure to pack it correctly and the list goes on. Through myself and other dealers you have spent ALOT of money on element over the last few years and all of us deserve the best we can get. A little competition can go a long way for everyone and there is always room to improve. Our goal was to raise the bar a bit and get something that was thought through for this very purpose from the start. Make improvements in the connection process and have something we can all get safer and easier use out of. It is my belief that this discussion and the tests "independent Aaron" has been kind enough to share will prove this out. Inevitably this will cause someone else to raise the bar a little higher, it will probably be us but that is how this works. You sit around and look at it but don't act and nothing ever changes.
Hope to see some of you in Pomona this weekend!
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The Following User Says Thank You to Reptilebasics For This Useful Post:
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I am waiting for mine to get here saturday
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The Following User Says Thank You to PitOnTheProwl For This Useful Post:
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Calorique is just some kind of anti oxidant coating if the encapsulation is complete the copper should not oxidize anyway not that it matters either way. Moot point no one uses silver, too costly, if some fool did gold would be a better choice anyway.
I have not played with thermal switches at all. It was just a though that if the panel shorted somewhere (aluminum tape for example) it would over heat and shut down. Again just a thought I have no idea of what the cost might be. I know Kane pads had some sort of thermal protection but they priced out of the market in many ways.
I am glad to see though into increasing the safety level. I would also be interested to see what the heat tape maxes at in a room at or near 80ºF assuming the tape will be used on racks and that many racks are in regulated rooms at or near 80ºF. This is likely the most important heat test. I also believe both Aaron and myself do not have rooms as warm as 80º (i think, Aaron is that correct?) If out of interests sake testing is being done that too would be valuable. It puts more on Aaron's plate I would love to but don't have access to the product to play with, yet anyway.
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Re: Heat Tape
Originally Posted by kitedemon
Calorique is just some kind of anti oxidant coating if the encapsulation is complete the copper should not oxidize anyway not that it matters either way. Moot point no one uses silver, too costly, if some fool did gold would be a better choice anyway.
I have not played with thermal switches at all. It was just a though that if the panel shorted somewhere (aluminum tape for example) it would over heat and shut down. Again just a thought I have no idea of what the cost might be. I know Kane pads had some sort of thermal protection but they priced out of the market in many ways.
I am glad to see though into increasing the safety level. I would also be interested to see what the heat tape maxes at in a room at or near 80ºF assuming the tape will be used on racks and that many racks are in regulated rooms at or near 80ºF. This is likely the most important heat test. I also believe both Aaron and myself do not have rooms as warm as 80º (i think, Aaron is that correct?) If out of interests sake testing is being done that too would be valuable. It puts more on Aaron's plate I would love to but don't have access to the product to play with, yet anyway.
The tests I Posted results above have room temps along with them in the table. My room was sitting 78-79. I can easily test in a room up to 85 degrees and down as low as 68 if people are interested. I do these types of tests on Computer fans/CPU coolers all the time so it's no problem at all. Tomorrow I will be overhauling a few cages and will have some old flexwatt out anyway. I will do a side by side test open face & in an open rack with tubs at a few different room temperatures and see what differences if any there really are between the two.
~Aaron
0.1 Pastel 100% Het Clown Ball Python (Hestia)
1.0 Coastal/Jungle Carpet Python (Shagrath)
0.1 Dumeril's Boa (Nergal)
0.1 Bearded Dragon (Gaius)
1.0 Siberian Husky (Picard)
0.1 German Shepherd/Lab Mix (Jadzia)
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to The Serpent Merchant For This Useful Post:
STjepkes (01-05-2013),whispersinmyhead (02-20-2013)
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Aaron,
Sorry I read that and blipped it . Been calibrating colour on 20 computers and 6 printers today and my mind is mush now.
Fl winters... rub it in, I just walked home and I can no longer feel my face. It is -20ºC with the wind chill now... (-4ºF) I am FROZEN....
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Re: Heat Tape
Originally Posted by kitedemon
Fl winters... rub it in, I just walked home and I can no longer feel my face. It is -20ºC with the wind chill now... (-4ºF) I am FROZEN....
And that would be why I stay in the south
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I just had some time to watch this video, for those of you that don't want to search it:
flexwatt
To be honest, David sounds more like a salesman for flexwatt. I don't get the feeling he has any interest in the reptile community other than making sure everyone buys flexwatt.
I also love how he stresses "cheap knock off" and that some people solder but his ratcheting crimpers are the best method.
ADDED:
I also like that he has to approve posted comments to his video. Guess if he doesn't like them no one will ever see them?
Last edited by PitOnTheProwl; 01-04-2013 at 08:09 AM.
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To my mind flexwatt has always been a poor option, its advantages are focused on the keeper and not the kept so to speak. There are a number of UTH made that are superior in most ways. It is really important to see someone addressing the issues flexwatt has and attempting to alter some.
Lets face it is is the simplest product around. It is hard to make something that replaces it that does not resemble it. There are what 3 parts to the heater (bus, carbon element, and laminations) and 3 (attachment, cable and switch) to the optional cord/connectors?
Rob... -25ºC (-13ºF) with wind chill this morning and I am outside most of the day today working.
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