Humidity Problems

[lX V1P3R Xl]

Hello everyone,

I'm new to BP's and am having trouble getting my humidity up to par. If I were to do nothing, it would drop in the low to mid 40's. For a while I was spraying a few times a day. This would get it to 55-70%, but I'm not always around and it doesn't last very long. I tried putting a wet towel on top of the cage and it worked pretty well. A couple days later I found out that putting towels on top can be very unhealthy for the snake, so I would like to do something else. Also, putting the water dish under the heat source isn't possible. I have a 20g Long and the warm hide and water dish both can't fit in the warm area. Any suggestions on what else I can try?

[Daybreaker]

How is a damp towel on top of the screen unhealthy for the snake? Would moving the snake to a tub setup be an option (tubs keep humidity a lot better then tanks do)?

[lX V1P3R Xl]

How is a damp towel on top of the screen unhealthy for the snake? Would moving the snake to a tub setup be an option (tubs keep humidity a lot better then tanks do)?

I've read that it's unhealthy for them because it can grow mold quickly from being wet constantly, which makes sense. Also, I really don't want to keep in a tub because a cage is more fun. I think a cage looks better and you can watch your snake as they go about their daily business.

[Daybreaker]

^ Just remember BP's usually stay hidden 90% of the time, but most people catch them out in the evenings. A hiding BP is a happy BP!

For the towel, sometimes I use one for my crestie's cage and as long as you change them out and don't keep them soaking wet for days (mine usually dry out in 2 days though, not enough time for mold to grow anyway) then I wouldn't worry about mold issues. If the towel was working the best for you I would continue to do that and just monitor for mold. Prolonged mold inside the tank is what I would be worried about.

[lX V1P3R Xl]

^ Just remember BP's usually stay hidden 90% of the time, but most people catch them out in the evenings. A hiding BP is a happy BP!

For the towel, sometimes I use one for my crestie's cage and as long as you change them out and don't keep them soaking wet for days (mine usually dry out in 2 days though, not enough time for mold to grow anyway) then I wouldn't worry about mold issues. If the towel was working the best for you I would continue to do that and just monitor for mold. Prolonged mold inside the tank is what I would be worried about.

Oh I know a hiding BP is a happy BP, but I want to watch her during that 10% when she is out of her hide

As for the towel, using them is fine then if I switch to a new towel every two days?

[patientz3ro]

I use glass for the same reason. IMO, tubs and the like just feel thrown together. I haven't had all the issues with heat and humidity that turn many people away from glass. Basically, I use a 1/4in thick piece of tempered glass that covers half of the tank top. I have an EXO Terra light hood that rests on top of the glass. That cuts down on the amount of humidity lost to the surrounding air and decreases the impact that the heat lamps have on humidity. I also use very low wattage bulbs, 25w day, and 15w lunar. On the hot side of the tank, i have a small wad of damp sphagnum that sits in direct contact with the glass bottom, right on the UTH. It's in the corner under a thin layer of substrate.

Another option to try is getting some sort of wood cage furniture. You can use a little branch of grape or mopani. Soak it for a bit in hot water, dry off the excess moisture, and put it in your enclosure.

[kitedemon]

Mid 40% are fine you only would need to increase this during a shed. There is issues with stagnate air and high humidity (mould mushrooms and bacteria all grow really well in these conditions.) Good ventilation is important too. It sounds like you are not having as big an issue as you think. Humidity is a product of water bowl size and placement and substrate water mass. A larger diameter water bowl placed closer to the heat source, and or using a substrate that will retain some moisture and slowly release it. Cyprus is good at this although I find once it is dry it never really re hydrates well. Coco husk product holds a lot of water and will also re hydrate.

VPI one of the oldest BP breeders around always say to err on the side of dry that too dry (low RH) is better than too wet.

- - - Updated - - -

Variation on the tank that solves most heating and humidity issues. I don't think you need to by the sounds of you situation but here it is anyway . This also increases the floor space as most tanks are taller than wide.


http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showthread.php?137453-Aquarium-Solution

[lX V1P3R Xl]

Mid 40% are fine you only would need to increase this during a shed. There is issues with stagnate air and high humidity (mould mushrooms and bacteria all grow really well in these conditions.) Good ventilation is important too. It sounds like you are not having as big an issue as you think. Humidity is a product of water bowl size and placement and substrate water mass. A larger diameter water bowl placed closer to the heat source, and or using a substrate that will retain some moisture and slowly release it. Cyprus is good at this although I find once it is dry it never really re hydrates well. Coco husk product holds a lot of water and will also re hydrate.

When I spray, I keep a few sheets of newspaper on the lid covering about 3/4's of the top and the humidity ranges 55-75% for about 4 or 5 hours. When I keep a towel on the lid, the humidity rests at 60-75% for near the whole day. Would those humidity ranges be to much then?

If 40's are ok until a shed, at what time then should I begin spraying again. Should I begin right away at the first few signs of an oncoming shed (pink belly, the "dull" look, etc), or closer to when her eyes turn blue?

Also, just an FYI. I am currently using Zilla's Jungle Mix. It is supposed to hold humidity really well.

[kitedemon]

I usually would suggest increasing RH at the first shed sign. If you pay attention you can catch at the first dusty appearance the belly often changes a few days later. Don't soak them however that often will make a shed worse. I used to use a humid hide during a shed. Just a small container with a U shape hole cut in the side of the lid. (o shaped holes cut in the centre can cause a stuck snake and tons of stress so I simply avoid them. I would fill the container with damp substrate of moss (i use coco husk based that is usually enough.) Personally when I got my third snake I bought a humidifier and just bumped up the RH in the room. So this is not the way I currently do things. I have never had a bad shed before the humidifier or after.

I believe many keepers have hygrometers that are incorrect and mistakably believe that they need 60%+ RH to have good sheds. All of mine have shed fine at 60% and even as low as 50% with full unbroken sheds. I check and calibrate my hygrometers every 6 months however...

[KMG]

You can also use foil our foil tape to cover most of the screen on the top to trap some humidity. If it is above 40 its fine. Like said above you just need to raise it when a shed is about to begin. And yes, at first signs start missing. Usually twice a day works great.

My tank stays in the 40's too. I mist every other day or so for a little boost.