new bp will only eat when fuzzies left in cage overnight? want to feed in speperte

[jjcunaz]

Hi all as I said, I recently puchased a 160g 24in bp. The pet store told me to drop 2 fuzzies in the tank weekly. So I come home and do what we all do, got online and started studying. One of the first things I read was to feed in separate container. I hav a rubbermaid like I have seen others use. My main ? Is temp controll overnight as she will only eat if I leave her food overnight. I also have a 10g aquarium? Or should I keep throwing themin her main habitat. Main? How do I entice her to take immediatly to eat and what temp in seperate container... thanks in advance new bp fanatic.

[SRMD]

Ignore everything someone at a pet shop has told you, most of them don't care for snakes.

feeding a bp in a separate container can cause it stress so its best to feed it in its own cage.

how long have you had the bp for?

Whats your Temps, Humidity?

[SRMD]

Ignore everything someone at a pet shop has told you, most of them don't care for snakes.

feeding a bp in a separate container can cause it stress so its best to feed it in its own cage.

how long have you had the bp for?

Whats your Temps, Humidity?

There are many methods you can use to try and attract your ball to the rodent,
when your thawing/defrosting the rodent place it on a plate in the room where the ball is kept at let it thaw till room temperature... then get a hair/blow dryer and blow dry the scent of the rodent towards the balls cage till the rodents head is quite warm/hot

Then dangle the rodent down from above "zombie dance" if the ball takes no notice and goes into his hide then i would just throw the rodent away then try feeding him on the next scheduled feeding day

Hope this helps.

[jjcunaz]

Ignore everything someone at a pet shop has told you, most of them don't care for snakes.

feeding a bp in a separate container can cause it stress so its best to feed it in its own cage.

how long have you had the bp for?

Whats your Temps, Humidity?

I agree, I asked to look at one and she says " get ready to get bit" and actually tried to talk me out of buying it. She opens the cage and hits it with the box and made it strike! When I got home I took my time with it and have not been struck nor hissd at. It is very docile and friendly. I bought 30*12*12 enclosure ,eco-earth, black and daylight ceramic lights, 3 temp and a humidity thermo., 2 hides, 2 live plants, and a longhorn shed to bask. My hot temp is90 right now and cool side is 80, humidity 52%. It will not become aggressive or cause bacteria feeding it in the cage as it will slide all over the fuzzy and lay there half the night? I woke up at 3#m last feeding and they were still there. But gone at 6 am. I hav had her 2 weeks now.

[SRMD]

IMO, i wouldn't leave the rodent there for a long time but if its how he eats, then its how he eats...
your temps,humidity sounds fine, do you have any pictures of the his cage?

but as long as the ball is eating it should be Ok, when my ball doesn't strike i just leave the rodent in their for about 10 minutes in pitch black... if he hasn't had it then i just throw it away.

[Kaorte]

IMO, i wouldn't leave the rodent there for a long time but if its how he eats, then its how he eats...
your temps,humidity sounds fine, do you have any pictures of the his cage?

but as long as the ball is eating it should be Ok, when my ball doesn't strike i just leave the rodent in their for about 10 minutes in pitch black... if he hasn't had it then i just throw it away.

I have plenty of snakes that will not eat right away, even if you leave it in the enclosure. I often leave a rodent or two in the tub overnight and if it isn't eaten by morning I remove it.

There is nothing wrong with doing this. If that is the only way the snake will eat then that is fine!

As for the separate feeding enclosure, it is completely 100% unnecessary. If it eats just fine in its home enclosure then why try to feed it elsewhere? Anything you have read about "cage aggression" due to feeding in the home enclosure is false. I (as well as most of the users on this site) feed in the home enclosure and none of us have witnessed "cage aggression".

And really if you think about it, it doesn't make sense. If you are trying to avoid being bitten, feeding in the home enclosure is the best route. When you move your snake to a new enclosure for feeding, you are only exposing the snake to your hands, giving it more opportunities to bite you.

Don't fix what isn't broken. Feed in the home enclosure and save yourself the trouble and save your snake the stress.

[jjcunaz]

http:// https://www.youtube.com/watc...e_gdata_player

Yes I am new advice is nice!

[mackynz]

As long as it's not live I see no problem leaving it overnight. As far as a second container, it's up to the snake mostly. Mine has been a garbage disposal, he will strike food in seconds in or out of his cage. But a lot of people have trouble getting them to eat. In the end it is probably best to just feed in his cage, less stress that way.

[AK907]

Agreed with what the others have said about feeding in a separate container being unnecessary and often frowned upon by most experienced keepers because of the stress it causes them. Cage aggression is a myth. Same goes with people who will claim feeding live makes them aggressive. I feed thousands of live rats to our snakes in their tubs every year and I have ZERO food/cage aggressive snakes.

One thing I feel I must touch on since it seems to be a very common problem. What kind of fuzzies are you feeding your ball? I really hope they are rat fuzzies because mouse fuzzies are far too small of a meal for a 160g ball. I will advise you, as well as most of the breeders/long term keepers, to get a small digital scale and feed your snake 10-15% of its body weight every week. Rats are preferred because they are slightly more nutritious and its easier to feed one appropriate sized rat vs multiple mice as your snake grows. As your snake becomes an adult you can cut back on the food a little since their metabolisms slow down (the exception would be for breeding, etc which I wouldn't worry about all that yet).

AKedit: It IS safe to leave live rat FUZZIES in your snakes container unsupervised. Anything larger than that is not because they can scratch and bite back. If you feed live, just use common sense. It's real simple and there are lots of threads on that subject if you use the search feature.

[jjcunaz]

As long as it's not live I see no problem leaving it overnight. As far as a second container, it's up to the snake mostly. Mine has been a garbage disposal, he will strike food in seconds in or out of his cage. But a lot of people have trouble getting them to eat. In the end it is probably best to just feed in his cage, less stress that way.

Thanks ill keep doing what works but attempt to get her to eventually strike.


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I have plenty of snakes that will not eat right away, even if you leave it in the enclosure. I often leave a rodent or two in the tub overnight and if it isn't eaten by morning I remove it.

There is nothing wrong with doing this. If that is the only way the snake will eat then that is fine!

As for the separate feeding enclosure, it is completely 100% unnecessary. If it eats just fine in its home enclosure then why try to feed it elsewhere? Anything you have read about "cage aggression" due to feeding in the home enclosure is false. I (as well as most of the users on this site) feed in the home enclosure and none of us have witnessed "cage aggression".

And really if you think about it, it doesn't make sense. If you are trying to avoid being bitten, feeding in the home enclosure is the best route. When you move your snake to a new enclosure for feeding, you are only exposing the snake to your hands, giving it more opportunities to bite you.

Don't fix what isn't broken. Feed in the home enclosure and save yourself the trouble and save your snake the stress.

Thanks for your time. This is what I have so far

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cfbQacuXTDQ&feature=youtube_gdata_player