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  1. #61
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    Re: Dehtdrated Water Monitor

    I've been brought stuff that looks much much worse especially in water monitors and they turned around.

    Your cage is terrible. Ideally for any monitor you either want to go the trough route for smaller monitors, OR you want to take time to frame and INSULATE walls for the enclosure for bigger stuff.

    Heavily dehydrated stuff i will go to the extreme of subcutaneous hydration. Basically its injection of water under the skin of a lizard to help speed up the hydration process (think similar to a human IV). Force feeding Pedialyte is another option I use often with rescues. YOU have the benefit that he is eating. Much eaiser to force fluid than food. Personally, I would push fluids and heat. Yes he needs water BUT with the limited info and apparent knowledge it is NOT beneficial to have him soaking. He is retreating to water which lowers his body temps and encourages respiratory issues in sick animals. heat and decent humidity, push fluids and encourage eating.


    Your cage....you want to keep heat INSIDE the cage. Outside mounted lights pointing in are just plain dumb. You lose over half of the heat this way. Learn to wire your own sockets and have them completely inside the cage, NO SHROUDS!!!!!!! Humidity will come especially with dirt substrate. As it dries out, wet it down or get leaf litter. Downfall, dirt is hard to heat so this is yet another reason your cage is subpar.

    Your situation, I would probably use one of the large blue rubbermaid tubs with a socket wired inside. i would use a retes stack and keep him on paper towels for substrate to keep a good eye on fecals. I would give a small dish of water that he can not lay in but can drink from. I would increase overall temps (I'd use a heat mat under the tub if necessary) to above 85 and basking site 130-140 and see where he chooses to lay. heating him up SHOULD encourage food drive. If he's laying in his water, even if you are heating him up, he's lowering his temps on his own.

    Monitors are hard to get right unless you put forth the effort for a proper setup.

  2. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to suzuki4life For This Useful Post:

    infernalis (04-21-2012),Michelle.C (04-21-2012)

  3. #62
    BPnet Veteran infernalis's Avatar
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    All I can add to the above post (excellently written by the way) is that injections should be Normosol-R an electrolyte intended specifically for dehydrated animals.

  4. #63
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    So I'm now really confused, I was told to put him on dirt then not to put him on dirt.
    If anyone is willing to call me and talk about my setup a little more send me a PM and I'll send them my number as I'm now confused and need phone consultation since it's easier to get all the information through.

    The reason for them being mounted on top was because of this photo.
    http://www.proexotics.com/faq_images...or_trough8.jpg
    It's a quick fix though and I have a day to do it.

    I have two digital thermometers and two bulbs for monitoring the cages temps.

    I'll set up a cage like you said and see if that helps. I'll get this one cleaned up and set for my Ornate. Thanks. I'm not trying to push any buttons just getting frustrated.

    I did call UnderGround up and voiced my concern about their lack of help and they told me to send another e-mail and that they would help out better this time.

  5. #64
    BPnet Veteran infernalis's Avatar
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    No, you misread... Dirt has to be kept damp. I use a watering can like people water potted plants with.

    Misting on dirt is virtually useless, I dump 2 gallons of water on my Monitor's dirt every few days.

    by spreading leaf litter over the top it helps the dirt retain moisture.

    I have planted grass, serves the same purpose, the grass and it's root structure holds the soil together and keeps the humidity in it.

    The statement about soaking is highly accurate, animals do not absorb via osmosis.

    A decent vet will do a Normosol injection for about $100 (office visit included)
    Last edited by infernalis; 04-21-2012 at 03:51 PM.

  6. #65
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    okay that's what I was doing, dumping water in there so it stays moist.
    here's some more photos from today I've set him up with paper towels and a shallow water dish with a basking spot high of 150 and humidity at 80% he is now in a smaller enclosure but long so as to make it easier to have a temp gradient, wasn't able to pick up a tub today so it is a tank 12" x 4' x 13" with a wood top to keep in the heat and humidity. I feel like I stepped back some.
    how would one go about tube feeding as he has not eaten since Monday?










  7. #66
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    called the vet but missed by an hour, left a message. I'll call again on Monday.

  8. #67
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    Pedialyte is that the stuff you can give children or something else?
    and do you mix it with water like 50/50 or just straight.
    Last edited by simpleyork; 04-21-2012 at 04:47 PM.

  9. #68
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    Re: Dehtdrated Water Monitor

    Quote Originally Posted by infernalis View Post
    All I can add to the above post (excellently written by the way) is that injections should be Normosol-R an electrolyte intended specifically for dehydrated animals.
    that's good advice if you have access but for most of us, distilled water works in a pinch.

  10. #69
    BPnet Veteran Anatopism's Avatar
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    Just a general question about distilled water... isn't the reason Normosol-R or pedialyte is recommended due to the specific electrolyte balance? I would think that you have to be very careful with distilled water, particularly if the animal isn't taking in any other form of liquid or food, that may provide necessary minerals for healthy cell function? If injecting, is there a possibility of rupturing cells?

    I obviously don't know enough about the subject, which is why I am asking, but is this an issue to be cautious of?
    Last edited by Anatopism; 04-21-2012 at 08:32 PM.

  11. #70
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    Re: Dehtdrated Water Monitor

    Quote Originally Posted by simpleyork View Post
    So I'm now really confused, I was told to put him on dirt then not to put him on dirt.
    shouldn't be confused. Many people want to offer a naturalistic habitat cage. In reality, many people raise monitors on solid floors with no substrate. Which is better normally depends on the health of your monitor in the end. I would agree that monitors would rather be in the wild and trying to provide them a "near home" cage is most ethical.

    Using the tub is purely a quarantine method that is much easier to watch fecal output and maintain temps properly. Very hard to properly heat dirt, making sure it is healthy right now is more important than him feeling like he's at home. I've had many monitors in bare tubs who were feeding machines(because they were healthy) you can still add hides if you feel they are necessary.

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