Questions about breeding rats

[Homegrownscales]

Maybe it's just with my bottles but if you cut a hole or the top off wouldn't the water just run right out?
It seems like I'm always replacing water bottles at my house bc one rat will chew a little hole in the top
Or bottom and I repair it with plumbers putty for a bit. (it's like this non toxic gum stuff) but if the gum isn't perfect on the ones with little holes the water just runs out of the metal spigot.


Check out what's new on my website... www.Homegrownscales.com

[satomi325]

Maybe it's just with my bottles but if you cut a hole or the top off wouldn't the water just run right out?
It seems like I'm always replacing water bottles at my house bc one rat will chew a little hole in the top
Or bottom and I repair it with plumbers putty for a bit. (it's like this non toxic gum stuff) but if the gum isn't perfect on the ones with little holes the water just runs out of the metal spigot.


Check out what's new on my website... www.Homegrownscales.com

Oh. Maybe. I guess it varies between bottles. Some require a vacuum. But they do sell topless water bottles. My friend has one for her ferrets. It has a removable cap. I'm sure it'll make filling water much more easier for a colony. I have a small breeding group, so I don't mind filling water.

Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk

[wilomn]

On a lot of the plastic bottles if there's any sort of hole all the water runs out the sipper. Get a watering system. It won't cost much more than bottles and you'll save hours of time.

[SquamishSerpents]

Leaky bottle? It's likely NOT the sipper.

Buy these: http://www.amazon.com/Gilmour-01RW-R.../dp/B000NCWP44

Replace them, and it won't leak anymore.

Also if they chew a hole in the bottle, repair it with hot glue from a glue gun.

[wilomn]

Leaky bottle? It's likely NOT the sipper.

Buy these: http://www.amazon.com/Gilmour-01RW-R.../dp/B000NCWP44

Replace them, and it won't leak anymore.

Also if they chew a hole in the bottle, repair it with hot glue from a glue gun.

I think you misunderstood.

If a bottle has a hole cut in it, the water will run out the sipper. It's not the sipper leaking, it's the lack of vacuum. If you've ever had a rat chew a hole in the bottle, you know what I mean. I used to use bottles, I'm much happier and have less time spent filling water containers with the auto system.

[Homegrownscales]

Yes I'm dying to do my watering system. That is the crap I'm dealing with now. Sucks huge
I think even with the removable cap bottles it still vaccum seals after the cap is screwed back on.


Check out what's new on my website... www.Homegrownscales.com

[SquamishSerpents]

I think you misunderstood.

If a bottle has a hole cut in it, the water will run out the sipper. It's not the sipper leaking, it's the lack of vacuum. If you've ever had a rat chew a hole in the bottle, you know what I mean. I used to use bottles, I'm much happier and have less time spent filling water containers with the auto system.

Ohhh okay, I get it now. But same idea, if the washer isn't sealing correctly, the same thing will happen as if there were a hole somewhere in the bottle.

The washer trick was just told to me by my rodent supplier, saved me throwing out a whole bunch of bottles!

[jasbus]

Water bottle that do not have a spring and ball require a vacuum, ie, no hole in the bottle or it will leak...

[satomi325]

Yes I'm dying to do my watering system. That is the crap I'm dealing with now. Sucks huge
I think even with the removable cap bottles it still vaccum seals after the cap is screwed back on.


Check out what's new on my website... www.Homegrownscales.com

It's not a screw on top. The top just pops open.



No matter. I agree. For larger colonies, an automatic system works well.

Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk

[tomfromtheshade]

1) how many cages should I start out with?
It looks to me like you are feeding 4-8 rats per week to your collection. This means that you really need one litter per week in order to supply your collection. It takes about 28 days from the time it gives birth to one litter to give birth to the next litter if you don't pull moms. So, you would need AT LEAST four mother rats.

2) will 1.4 be good in the breeding cages?
When you have more females in with your male it takes him longer to breed them. For instance, rats go into estrus every few days. If the male has one female to breed he breeds her on the first estrus every time. If he has two to breed he usually gets both of them on the first estrus. Once you get to four he usually starts missing one or two until the second estrus. This may not mean much to you, but babies that are 7 to 10 days older will always outcompete their younger brothers and sisters for a nipple. When there is a great disparity in baby size you start to lose babies. I would recommend that you run 1.2 per tub because you need so few.

3) do males fight with each other even if the cage is free from females?
Males can live forever in the same cage if they are never used for breeding. Rats that are raised together with RARELY ever fight. In fact, if you raise two males to breeding size and you never separate them they will be completely fine if you add females later. I have found this to be true 99% of the time.

4) after how many litters should I stop breeding a female?
I leave mine in production for 48 weeks. I start them in production at 16 weeks. They are culled at 64 weeks of age. I hope that she has produced 12 litters for me and then she is culled.

5) do females accept other litters than their own in the same cage?
Females will feed whatever babies she can find for the most part. Rats are great foster moms. The main problem is when you get too many babies with one mom, or when you get babies that are too far apart in size/age nursing at the same time. The larger stronger babies will cause the smaller younger babies to starve some times.

6) about how long does it take for a rat to grow about 100grams?
I would say around four or five weeks to reach 100 grams. Really, they should be almost 100 grams by weaning time. If there are a lot of pups in the litter they are usually smaller, but they grow quickly once they start eating.

If this is something that you are serious about you should not hesitate to build a rack. I would suggest a six level Jumbo litter box rack for you. You can also go ahead and splurge on the auto waterer.

Since 100 grams looks like the largest size you need I am going to suggest something that might sound strange to you now, but I think could be very effective for you.

Place 1.1 rats in the first four tubs. Use the bottom two tubs for growing out replacement breeders. Setting it up this way will let you really produce babies quickly. When the male has only one female to contend with she gets bred whether she wants to or not LOL. The babies will all be the same time. There will be no other mom trying to steal babies away. Your result should be never losing a pup (or 99+% survival rate) and large, fat, healthy weaned rats.

This system couldn't get any easier.

Open your tubs every day. If there is a little of pinks in with older rats you know that the oldest ones are ready to be pulled to wean. You just pull your tubs out on feeding day, take out what you need, and free the rest off as they get to weaning size.

I go on and on in a post like this every few months. Good luck.