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In my experience with Leo's I always housed them separately (even females) simply because like any animal it's easier to monitor feeding and health. I never tried can-o-worms or whatever but I always left a dish of live mealworms in the setup at all times and they seem to take them with gusto. Great picture btw!
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Leah, a few things:
Leos normally do not need social interaction with other geckos. Most people keep them separate, lots keep them in breeding groups or pairs but there is always risk of aggression and don't forget, just as in ball pythons, you won't know who had a regurg or who defecated, etc. I don't think anyone will frown upon keeping 2 together, but it's not ideal.
Secondly, they need live prey. They will not eat canned food. Most are fed a diet of mealies. Some feed crickets, but crickets smell, die fast, and often carry parasites more often. Dubias are a great feeder as well, but more pricey if you arent breeding your own. For just one, I recommend keeping a thing of mealies in the fridge.
Also, make sure you have a humid hide, a dish of calcium in the enclosure (recommended without D3) and dust with calcium/D3 every or every other feeding. Dust every week once with multivitamins.
Enjoy your gecko! Good luck!
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Re: Leo Setup
Originally Posted by Jessica Loesch
Leah, a few things:
Leos normally do not need social interaction with other geckos. Most people keep them separate, lots keep them in breeding groups or pairs but there is always risk of aggression and don't forget, just as in ball pythons, you won't know who had a regurg or who defecated, etc. I don't think anyone will frown upon keeping 2 together, but it's not ideal.
I figured as much, I'd never keep my snakes together...I just didn't know if geckos were the social type. If they normally are not, then IMO it's not worth the risk.
Secondly, they need live prey. They will not eat canned food. Most are fed a diet of mealies. Some feed crickets, but crickets smell, die fast, and often carry parasites more often. Dubias are a great feeder as well, but more pricey if you arent breeding your own. For just one, I recommend keeping a thing of mealies in the fridge.
I have access to live mealworms. I figured today I'd try the ones that came in the can, they are whole and everything, just dead lol. They can survive being stored in the fridge?
Also, make sure you have a humid hide, a dish of calcium in the enclosure (recommended without D3) and dust with calcium/D3 every or every other feeding. Dust every week once with multivitamins.
Do you recommend any specific types of the calcium and multivitamins? I'd rather buy online than go to petco to be honest...but I had no idea what to look for. I did buy some Zoo Med Repti Calcium today, but now that I look at it it says it has "safe" levels of D3.
Enjoy your gecko! Good luck!
2.0 Offspring, 1.1 Normal Ball Python, 1.0 Pastel Ball Python, 0.1 Albino Ball Python, 0.1 Pinstripe Ball Python, 0.1 Banana Ball Python, 1.0 Pied Ball Python, 1.0 Normal Hognose, 0.1 Veiled Chameleon, 0.0.1 G.pulchra, 0.1 P.metallica, 0.1 M.giganteus
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Leah:
Mealworms stay .... not necessarily "dormant" in the fridge, but that is how one normally stores them so they grow very slow and do not turn into beetles. I leave a small bunch out at a time with some carrots to gut load them with nutrients and then feed them dusted.
I don't have any suggestions as what to buy online, and the Calcium I have has D3 in it, and its pretty controversial, but in the end there is no proof that either or will hurt them any which way but they do need at least a source of D3 somewhere.
I have the Fluker's line, I think repashy makes some, and I am sure there are many more. I would look on some leopard gecko breeder sites such as designer gecko, and see if they have any info on what they recommend. If you find a good choice, let me know
And about the live, leos just like the movement. Kinda like some snakes like live food. Except you can't really convert a leo lol. They are a little more ... picky? I dunno.
I actually have one that isn't feeding right now and I'm not sure what is wrong, but she is very thin and I'm worried so I've been feeding her yogurt. They will lick things off your finger, but that's about it.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Jessica Loesch For This Useful Post:
Skittles1101 (10-10-2011)
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I know this is a lot of questions, but how often should I offer meal worms? How many should I offer at a time? Also, I've offered some greens, what else should I be offering? Like you mentioned the yogurt, what about fruit and the sorts? This is why I never do impulse buys, I feel bad and should already know all this Today I've left her 3 superworms and some greens...
2.0 Offspring, 1.1 Normal Ball Python, 1.0 Pastel Ball Python, 0.1 Albino Ball Python, 0.1 Pinstripe Ball Python, 0.1 Banana Ball Python, 1.0 Pied Ball Python, 1.0 Normal Hognose, 0.1 Veiled Chameleon, 0.0.1 G.pulchra, 0.1 P.metallica, 0.1 M.giganteus
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The Following User Says Thank You to Jessica Loesch For This Useful Post:
Skittles1101 (10-10-2011)
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Re: Leo Setup
Originally Posted by Jessica Loesch
Leos are carnivores. They do not eat greens or fruit. They will eat paste type foods like yogurt if they are sick and need food, only reason I'm feeding it I should have clarified that
I think the rule is something like 2 per inch or something, but I'm not really sure.
Take out the greens and leave in the supers Maybe even a few more!
Thanks so much, you've been a huge help. I'm not sure why I was under the impression they would eat greens, I think I'm starting to mix up her diet with the tortoises!
2.0 Offspring, 1.1 Normal Ball Python, 1.0 Pastel Ball Python, 0.1 Albino Ball Python, 0.1 Pinstripe Ball Python, 0.1 Banana Ball Python, 1.0 Pied Ball Python, 1.0 Normal Hognose, 0.1 Veiled Chameleon, 0.0.1 G.pulchra, 0.1 P.metallica, 0.1 M.giganteus
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I wish they did, it would make things easier
And you'll have to teach me tortoises now
Your turn lol!
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My guys all eat superworms, I let them eat as many as they want. I don't leave them in the tanks (they escape bowls better than mealies!), I hand feed them. When they stop eating they are full and will go again in a few days. Mine are all adults though. I see if anyone wants to eat nightly but they "average" an every other or every third day schedule. Babies/juvies will eat daily...again though, offer as much as they want. They really are good at knowing when to stop.
I keep mine in their own 20 long tanks, lots of room and solitude, it works well for all of us.
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I can't feed them as many as they want, a couple of mine will eat and eat until they regurg from eating too much lol.
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