Where's all the drymarchon fans?

[Skiploder]

Just how much poop are we talking about here? XD I love their faces, particularly the black tails. I don't think I have enough experience yet, but I'd love to have one someday.

Soon after you feed them, and often for a day or two. The consistency is a cross between baby food and velcro.

It is unlike python or boa poop. The smell hits you as soon as you walk into a snake room with a dry in it.

[Evenstar]

I'd also be interested in any recommendations on where to get one. I'm mostly interested in the black tails. I like the indigos, but after handling a cribo, that's what I want. Any suggestions Skip (or anyone else)???

[ShockBunny]

Baby food and velcro? XD I'm having a tough time picturing that. They're so cool, though, it may be worth it. Maybe when I'm done with school and settled down.

[Skiploder]

I'd also be interested in any recommendations on where to get one. I'm mostly interested in the black tails. I like the indigos, but after handling a cribo, that's what I want. Any suggestions Skip (or anyone else)???

Some people are still selling the last of the 2011 babies on kingsnake. A baby blacktail male won't set you back that much money.

I'm planning on breeding the "unicolors" and black tails this year, but babies won't be ready until summer if the breeding schedule works out the same as in past years. My uni male is off feed which is an indicator that he should be ready for his girlfriend soon. My male black tails aren't showing signs of being ready yet.

If you've never owned a cribo before, start with a baby. An adult black tail is an intimidating animal - quick moving, strong and with an aggressive feeding response. It's much easier to start with a juvenile and grow into the snake.

They key to these animals is to keep the ambient in the mid to low 70s and to make sure they stay well hydrated. You can't keep them like a ball python or a boa - they do not handle temps over the high 70s low 80s well at all.

[Skiploder]

Baby food and velcro? XD I'm having a tough time picturing that. They're so cool, though, it may be worth it. Maybe when I'm done with school and settled down.

Runny, sticky and stinky.

Does that help?

[ShockBunny]

Runny, sticky and stinky.

Does that help?

Ewww, lovely. XD Sounds like an adventure.

[varnoid]

I'd recommend Robert Harper and Steve Fuller.

There are others out there. I got mine from Robert Seib whose snakes appear in many lines, but alas Dr. Seib is not breeding indigos anymore.

wow ! (robert harper) is my chemestry teacher ! haha i did not notice you referenced him in here but i agree he has some of the most impressive indigos i have ever seen ! highly recomend him ! i believe he has some babies still avalable too !

[Skiploder]

wow ! (robert harper) is my chemestry teacher ! haha i did not notice you referenced him in here but i agree he has some of the most impressive indigos i have ever seen ! highly recomend him ! i believe he has some babies still avalable too !

I don't know if he has easterns available - but I think he still has Texas indigo babies.

They are about the same price and just as cool.

[Evenstar]

Some people are still selling the last of the 2011 babies on kingsnake. A baby blacktail male won't set you back that much money.

I'm planning on breeding the "unicolors" and black tails this year, but babies won't be ready until summer if the breeding schedule works out the same as in past years. My uni male is off feed which is an indicator that he should be ready for his girlfriend soon. My male black tails aren't showing signs of being ready yet.

If you've never owned a cribo before, start with a baby. An adult black tail is an intimidating animal - quick moving, strong and with an aggressive feeding response. It's much easier to start with a juvenile and grow into the snake.

They key to these animals is to keep the ambient in the mid to low 70s and to make sure they stay well hydrated. You can't keep them like a ball python or a boa - they do not handle temps over the high 70s low 80s well at all.

Thanks for the helpful info! I am mostly interested in an older baby or juvenile. I like the idea of raising it from a youngster. I knew they prefered a bit cooler temps. Do you use a "hotspot" for them at all or do you just keep the ambient temps in the low/mid 70's?

I truly do want one (despite the icky poop... lol!) but it won't happen til spring/summer at the soonest. I don't mind waiting. Do you have a wait list for your babies next year? An email list or something I can get on to keep up to date? PM me if you'd prefer!

[Skiploder]

Thanks for the helpful info! I am mostly interested in an older baby or juvenile. I like the idea of raising it from a youngster. I knew they prefered a bit cooler temps. Do you use a "hotspot" for them at all or do you just keep the ambient temps in the low/mid 70's?

I truly do want one (despite the icky poop... lol!) but it won't happen til spring at the soonest. Do you have a wait list for your babies next year? An email list or something I can get on to keep up to date? PM me if you'd prefer!

The temp of my herp room runs in the mid 70s in the summer and the mid 60s in the winter.

Currently, I give them a hotspot that hovers around 88 degrees. It's belly heat in the form of 11" flexwatt. I currently keep all my drys in FB racks - the 66"x30" giant drawers. Old school with the 100% ventilation tops.

I've used cages in the past, but have found no issue with the giant racks. They key is to give them several hides, logs, and even length of corrugated pipe to explore.

They will use the heat when digesting meals - sometimes. In the past I have gone years without giving them supplemental heat.

I don't have a wait list. If they lock up and the females lay, I'll shoot you a PM. I'm pretty relaxed about these things............