kind of upset..

[bobbyb]

So April 13th i got a spider ball python i liked him and he didn't look too skinny but i knew he needed to gain some weight he was feeding him live rat pups hes about 3 feet so i got a pack of three small rats.Well he hasn't eaten I've thawed it held it by its tail and shook it,heated up the mouse on it head than also on stomach,kept it in with him also used tongs and held it behind the rats head and moved it,shook it I've tried a lot but today he looks veryy skinny like scary thin if anyone can give me any ideas of what to do I'd definitely appreciate it its just when i hold him on top of my hand he just lays very flat i mean he does move but i don't know what to do.He hasn't really come out of his hiding log i saw him last night come out and look around but that's it

[mc5guy]

I would try a live rat pup leave there over night. Those hardly move pups or fuzzy what ever you called them.

[Emilio]

Try feeding him live next time then after he is on a feeding routine( 4 or 5 meals) try F/T again if that is your preference. Also leave it alone til its feeding well for you extra stress from handling might hamper your goals.


Good luck

[FatBoy]

I agree with the others...Live rat!!

[SlitherinSisters]

Definitely try live. I wouldn't try switching to f/t from live until the snake is a healthy weight.

[Sammy412]

I disagree. I think you can certainly get him to take f/t .......IF you go from rat pups to weanling rats. There is a pretty big size jump from rat pups to smalls.......he could be freaked out by the "huge" rat. Just make sure you thaw it out and it is warm enough, then wiggle it just a little. I have a pastel male who is close to 3ft, and could probably take a small rat, but he won't. But he'll take a f/t weanling like it's nobody's business.

[JLC]

From our Caresheet:

WHY WON'T MY SNAKE EAT?
In almost all cases, a ball python refuses to eat due to husbandry issues. Especially a young one. If your snake misses more than 2-3 meals (sometimes they will not want to eat while in shed) please check the following possible causes:

Lack of Security -- No hides, or hides that are too large or exposed (ie: half logs). They prefer dark, tight hides they barely fit into. Also, if the enclosure is too large, or too open (glass) or in a high traffic area with a lot of loud noise or movement. Another snake in the same enclosure can also cause serious security issues.

Over Handling -- Frequent intrusions into the enclosure, changes to the enclosure, and/or long frequent handling sessions can cause a shy snake to feel vulnerable and refuse to eat.

Improper Temps -- Temps that are too high or too low, or temps that fluctuate too much. Make sure you have an accurate and consistent read on your temps.

Improper Lighting -- Bright white lights shining directly into the enclosure, or 24 hour lighting can cause stress. Make sure there is some sort of day/night cycle.

Offering New Prey -- Changing prey species (ie: mice to rats) or methods (ie: live to f/t) can cause refusal. Such changes can be made, but may require patience and persistence.

Improper Offering of Prey -- Offering prey too frequently can do more harm than good. If a snake refuses, do not attempt to feed again for a week. Also, changing environments by moving to a feeding-box or removing hides and "furniture" can cause refusal in these shy snakes.

Prey Too Large -- Too large an item may intimidate a snake and cause refusal, or even a regurgitation if it is eaten. Also, if a ball python has eaten large meals in the past, it can cause a sudden an indefinite period of fasting.

Mites -- An external parasite common to snakes that must be treated and eradicated. A product called Provent-a-Mite (P.A.M.) is the safest and most effective method.

Seasonal -- Sexually mature ball pythons may fast for anywhere from a few weeks to a few months during their mating season (typically anywhere from late fall to early spring) especially if a sexually mature snake of the opposite sex is in close proximity.

Illness -- If all other possible reasons are eliminated, a vet check may be in order to look for internal parasites, as well as possible infections to the skin, scales, mouth or respiratory system.

Fortunately, ball pythons are extremely hardy snakes that can go for months (if necessary) of fasting without suffering any ill effects. This gives a responsible keeper plenty of time to figure out why the snake refuses to eat and get them on a regular, consistent feeding regimen.

I'd check the security issues and make sure the husbandry is spot on. (Our care sheet is linked at the top of this post) And then I'd try a smaller prey item...live or f/t. I have a really big boy who easily downs medium rats. He went on a winter fast and didn't eat for about five months. After throwing away several uneaten rats, it occurred to me that after not eating for so long, such a big prey may be unappetizing, even though he could easily consume it. I offered a large mouse today...and he ate. I'll probably do the mouse again next week...then a small rat...and then he'll probably be happy to eat the medium rats again by then.

But first and foremost...go through that check list and study your enclosure from the snake's point of view to help ensure he feels secure and comfortable enough to eat in the first place.

[Keyboard Warrior]

You can try what the others said, and go live. But even then, when you fed him f/t, don't hold it by the tail and dangle him in front of the snake. This can scare and stress out the snake. Plus if they do strike at it, theres a good chance it will miss, because its essentially being dangled

Instead, get prongs and grab it by the scruff of its back, and have it do a zombie dance, near the snake.

But try live, before resorting to this. This will be in the future, when he's on a regular feeding schedule, and you feel like switching over to f/t.

Good luck

[bobbyb]

You can try what the others said, and go live. But even then, when you fed him f/t, don't hold it by the tail and dangle him in front of the snake. This can scare and stress out the snake. Plus if they do strike at it, theres a good chance it will miss, because its essentially being dangled

Instead, get prongs and grab it by the scruff of its back, and have it do a zombie dance, near the snake.

But try live, before resorting to this. This will be in the future, when he's on a regular feeding schedule, and you feel like switching over to f/t.

Good luck

I was using tongs and grabbing behind neck and making him look like he was walking and he did nothing so i tried the tail thing my other snake ate right away when i did tail thing but i will try live thank you

[bobbyb]

I'd check the security issues and make sure the husbandry is spot on. (Our care sheet is linked at the top of this post) And then I'd try a smaller prey item...live or f/t. I have a really big boy who easily downs medium rats. He went on a winter fast and didn't eat for about five months. After throwing away several uneaten rats, it occurred to me that after not eating for so long, such a big prey may be unappetizing, even though he could easily consume it. I offered a large mouse today...and he ate. I'll probably do the mouse again next week...then a small rat...and then he'll probably be happy to eat the medium rats again by then.

But first and foremost...go through that check list and study your enclosure from the snake's point of view to help ensure he feels secure and comfortable enough to eat in the first place.

thank you yeah my temps are good hot side 90-92 cool side 78-82 and humidity 60 i have him in a 41 quart tub 2 hides and water bowl and hes always in his hide he looks like he wants to strike at it but than looks away i've tried to feed him in his 41 quart tub and i've also tried to feed him in a separate cage and he just tried to slither away and get out of cages