New BP Mom Here

[hope4peace]

Hi there,

I am new to the forum and to snakes. A couple days ago I got a 1 1/2 year old male ball python from a local breeder. Ive set up a 55gal for him (I know thats a bit big, but he really likes to explore and he seemed cramped in the 20 gallon. I figure as long as he still has some nice hiding spots he will be happy.

I do have a few questions that have arisen over the past few days.

1) Substrate:

Right now I have him on eco-earth, but when I clean the tank Im going to switch to forest floor cypress mulch. Does that stuff stick to prey items too? Does the mulch carry mites? Can I freeze it for a day prior to use to kill them if so?

If the prey will stick to the mulch, I will be using a separate tank for feeding. My only concern is I was told not to handle him for a couple days after feeding, so how am I supposed to transfer him back to his tank? Also, how long after hes gotten the prey down do I wait before trying to move him back?

2) Feeding:

He was used to mice, so for our first feeding last night, thats what we used, although the mice are too small for him, so he will need to be switched over to rats unless we want to feed multiple mice. Last night was a bit of work and my first time so he only ended up getting one, but in the future, how long do I wait to offer the second mouse? Just as soon as he has the first one down? Do I need to wait an hour? A day?

Also, any tips for when I switch to rats?

One thing about the feeding that really bothered me and I was not expecting...... when he took and squeezed the mouse... it bursted open leaving the mouse nearly severed in half and organs hanging out. Is this normal?

After feeding he first started to "climb" up the side of the tank seemingly to help get the food down, then he was slithering around rubbing his face on everthing for a while. I got worried and looked it up and it seems this is quite normal after feeding? Hes just trying to re-locate his jaw? Eventually he just settled down and chilled on top of his half-log.

3) Humidity

Ive found that most everyone agrees the humidity should be at least 50% but I found many opinions on what the high end should be, Ive found anywhere from 60% to 80%... so... how high is too high?

4) Mites

I made a mistake and didnt bake the eco-complete or the driftwood branch I used, so after reading I realize I could have given him mites... how will I know if he has them? are they easy to see? Will the mite spray at the pet store work if he does have them? I know I will need to thoroughly clean the tank and bake all the wood and use fresh/clean bedding.


Thanks in advance, and btw... Here is Zeus!

[BuckeyeBalls]

Btw roaming, exploring around and cruising is a sign of stress, not happiness. A hiding ball python is a happy ball python

1. Yes it will stick. Dont feed in a separate tank. A little substrate on the rat will not bother the snake. and if its an issue just throw some newspaper in on top of the substrate before feeding then let him/her eat on that. Thats what i would do.

2. Soon as he gets first mouse down and fixes his jaw offer the second. Tho id switch to rats, easier on him!

3. Well high humidity isnt bad for them. Its not going to harm them. The bad thing about humidity is generally if you have a super high humidity.... well most of the time its the result of a soaked substrate that can cause scale rot. As long as ur substrate is not soaked and ur humidity is still up there i wouldn't worry.

4. You will see little black bugs around his eyes on his belly. If you stick him in water and take him out u will see little black bugs floating.

Tho i used some substrate like that and cypress and other stuff. Generally the bugs in there are not mites and wont harm ur snake... Dont really hear about to many people getting mites from their bedding just sometimes you will see a bug or 2 but they dont harm your snake.

[Skittles1101]

+1 BuckeyeBalls, "exploring" the cage is a sign of stress, 55 gallons is just huge for a ball python. The largest I'd go is 20 long. If he stays in his hide, that means he's happy. They like "cramped". It makes them feel safer and more secure. If you do switch tanks which I recommend, I'd black out the sides and back with black Con-tact paper from Home Depot.

[dr del]

Hi,

Zeus is a good looking little fella.

Hi there,

I am new to the forum and to snakes. A couple days ago I got a 1 1/2 year old male ball python from a local breeder. Ive set up a 55gal for him (I know thats a bit big, but he really likes to explore and he seemed cramped in the 20 gallon. I figure as long as he still has some nice hiding spots he will be happy.

He might well be - but keep an eye on him as the exploration is also often a sign of stress as they take time to get used to new environments. If he is still doing it after a week or so it may be a sign that he isn't happy.

I do have a few questions that have arisen over the past few days.

1) Substrate:

Right now I have him on eco-earth, but when I clean the tank Im going to switch to forest floor cypress mulch. Does that stuff stick to prey items too? Does the mulch carry mites? Can I freeze it for a day prior to use to kill them if so?

If the prey will stick to the mulch, I will be using a separate tank for feeding. My only concern is I was told not to handle him for a couple days after feeding, so how am I supposed to transfer him back to his tank? Also, how long after hes gotten the prey down do I wait before trying to move him back?

Pretty much any particulate substrate is going to stick to the prey at some point. It is generally not a problem and you can minimise it by putting a piece of flat stone down when you change the substrate to make a feeding table.

Having the mouse dry rather than wet can help a bit as well.

You can bake the substrate I think rather than freezing it - but hopefully if it is a sealed bag it shouldn't have any snake mites in it anyway.

If you do decide to feed in another enclosure (and he is ok with that ) then you can pick him up gently and pout him back into his enclosure once he has finished eating - then you would start the 48 hour digestion period.

Just be carefull as he is likely to still be in feeding mode.

2) Feeding:

He was used to mice, so for our first feeding last night, thats what we used, although the mice are too small for him, so he will need to be switched over to rats unless we want to feed multiple mice. Last night was a bit of work and my first time so he only ended up getting one, but in the future, how long do I wait to offer the second mouse? Just as soon as he has the first one down? Do I need to wait an hour? A day?

Also, any tips for when I switch to rats?

You can offer the second prey item as soon as the fist one is in his stomach and he has reset his jaws and looks ready.

You can try to switch to rats anytime you like but I would suggest sticking to what he is used to for a couple of meals first to get him established with you and used to eating in the conditions you decide on.

One thing about the feeding that really bothered me and I was not expecting...... when he took and squeezed the mouse... it bursted open leaving the mouse nearly severed in half and organs hanging out. Is this normal?

No. It sounds as though you had cooked the mouse slightly or it had previously defrosted and then been re-frozen. If you defrosted it on water make it cooler next time and if you defrosted at room temp don't leave it as long.

And, if it really stinks when it is defrosted post it back to the place you bought it from and ask if they would eat it ( put the note in a polly bag - don't want it getting all mousey ).

After feeding he first started to "climb" up the side of the tank seemingly to help get the food down, then he was slithering around rubbing his face on everthing for a while. I got worried and looked it up and it seems this is quite normal after feeding? Hes just trying to re-locate his jaw? Eventually he just settled down and chilled on top of his half-log.

Yep that sounds perfectly normal.

3) Humidity

Ive found that most everyone agrees the humidity should be at least 50% but I found many opinions on what the high end should be, Ive found anywhere from 60% to 80%... so... how high is too high?

50 - 60% normally bumped up to 60 - 70% when they are in shed.

Your substrate shouldn't be damp for extended periods of time as this can cause infections etc so I wouldn't want water streaming down the sides of the tank but mainly you should be fine.

4) Mites

I made a mistake and didnt bake the eco-complete or the driftwood branch I used, so after reading I realize I could have given him mites... how will I know if he has them? are they easy to see? Will the mite spray at the pet store work if he does have them? I know I will need to thoroughly clean the tank and bake all the wood and use fresh/clean bedding.

Snake mites aren't native to your country so, unless the shop had them from other stock, you should be fine.

But buying a can of Provent-a-mite and pre-treating new cage furniture ( Not waterbowls or anything simila though ) might be worth while - I would say having some on hand is never a bad idea just in case is also worthwhile.

Thanks in advance, and btw... Here is Zeus!

Oh and to the site.

**edit**

Heh heh - I took so long composing this everyone else already posted the info

**end edit**




dr del

[BuckeyeBalls]

Dr.Del breaks it down in detail

Tho i would cover the back and 2 sides of the tank with like black posterboard or something.