Tank Setup Advice!

[BuckeyeBalls]

i got this i dont use anymore for my beardie do u think it would be better for my ball python? i got seperate exo terra ones right now but http://cgi.ebay.ca/Thermor-digital-t...-/250575781057 that one measures all 3 so that means i put the prob under the substrate and the machine in the cage so it will read the humidity and the air?



ugh i hate asking dumb questions

Yup exactly

But look here

You tstat probe u should put outside the cage under the uth so he cant move it off the uth. Put the therm probe inside the cage on the uth to get the temp of the uth. Then put the box in there to get air temp and humidity

[Kaorte]

Okay. The three things you need to measure in your snakes cage are the hot side surface temp, ambient air temp, and the humidity.

You have your hot side temp. The probe goes under the substrate right on the glass where the UTH is. This point should never get hotter than 95*F.

The ambient air temp is measured with a probe thermometer or a non probed digital thermometer like the flukers temp and humidity reader. Place the probe or thermometer unit a few inches above the substrate level on the cool side. The ambient air temp should be in the low 80's and never fall below 75*F.

The humidity can also be read with a probe or a digital hygrometer unit. Use a similar placement as the ambient air thermometer. A few inches above the substrate, in the middle of the cage is best.

Your thermostat probe controls the UTH so it should go directly on the UTH outside the enclosure. This makes sure that the snake won't accidentally move it causing a temp spike.


I hope this clarifies on sensor placement. A note on feeding: If your snake refuses a meal, do not keep offering food day after day until the snake eats. Rather, wait a full week (or 5 days depending on the schedule you use) and offer again. By offering many times in a row, you are just stressing the snake out even more. If you wait a full week, the snake will be hungrier and more likely to eat.

It would probably be a good idea to get a gram kitchen scale to track the weight of your ball python. If it starts loosing considerable amounts of weight (this depends on the age and current size of the snake) then it may be time to try other methods or make a vet appointment.

[dembonez]

Okay. The three things you need to measure in your snakes cage are the hot side surface temp, ambient air temp, and the humidity.

You have your hot side temp. The probe goes under the substrate right on the glass where the UTH is. This point should never get hotter than 95*F.

The ambient air temp is measured with a probe thermometer or a non probed digital thermometer like the flukers temp and humidity reader. Place the probe or thermometer unit a few inches above the substrate level on the cool side. The ambient air temp should be in the low 80's and never fall below 75*F.

The humidity can also be read with a probe or a digital hygrometer unit. Use a similar placement as the ambient air thermometer. A few inches above the substrate, in the middle of the cage is best.

Your thermostat probe controls the UTH so it should go directly on the UTH outside the enclosure. This makes sure that the snake won't accidentally move it causing a temp spike.


I hope this clarifies on sensor placement. A note on feeding: If your snake refuses a meal, do not keep offering food day after day until the snake eats. Rather, wait a full week (or 5 days depending on the schedule you use) and offer again. By offering many times in a row, you are just stressing the snake out even more. If you wait a full week, the snake will be hungrier and more likely to eat.

It would probably be a good idea to get a gram kitchen scale to track the weight of your ball python. If it starts loosing considerable amounts of weight (this depends on the age and current size of the snake) then it may be time to try other methods or make a vet appointment.

all of the posts helped! but this one was the most helpful thanks so much to everyone for breaking it down for me!!


i switched them and getting the temps changed now!

[egw006]

Assuming the environment is in check, you may also try feeding a live rat pup. It's very possible that the breeder had him/her on live.

I tried my Caramel on frozen for 3 weeks and he wouldn't have anything to do with them. One of my het albino females only eats live rat pups (what a pain!), so I decided to drop one in the Caramel's bin. He came out fast and furious and took it down. He's taking one every four days now without hesitation.

I'll make the effort to get him on frozen, but live was the trick to get him started eating.

Good luck!

[dembonez]

im still having a bit of trouble with the temps the basking is 108 the humidity is only 53 and the ambient air which i have the most trouble raising is only 77 and thats high any tips for humidity and ambient?

[Kaorte]

That ambient temp is fine. As long as it isn't lower than 75*F and you provide a hot spot.

Where is the temp of 108* is it directly on the UTH or under a lamp? Either way, you need something to control the heat source. Your best bet is to find a piggy back lamp dimmer to use temporarily and order a thermostat online.

[dembonez]

That ambient temp is fine. As long as it isn't lower than 75*F and you provide a hot spot.

Where is the temp of 108* is it directly on the UTH or under a lamp? Either way, you need something to control the heat source. Your best bet is to find a piggy back lamp dimmer to use temporarily and order a thermostat online.

okay i found an old one around the house *hope it works* is like 91 okay?

[Kaorte]

okay i found an old one around the house *hope it works* is like 91 okay?

Between 89-95 is what you should shoot for.

You can test the dimmer on a real lamp to see if it works and then put it on our heat source.

[chapskis1]

okay i found an old one around the house *hope it works* is like 91 okay?

Anywhere between 90-95 really....but 108 is way too hot!