Taming and Growth

[CallmeUmaster]

Hello, im new here to the site.
Ive had my Yellow for about a year and a half, and i just had 2 questions. Does anyone know any better taming techniques or anything to help with that. She is cage agressive and hook trained but id like to not have to use the hook. She is relatively tame but she does have a temper. Also what would you say a healthy size is for a snake of her age?
Thanks!
Also, today for the first time since ive had her she refused a meal, odd?


Old pic from last year:

[PyroPython]

If shes cage aggrezssive it could be a feeding response. If you feed in a cage, buy a tub for feeding and try that out. It may eventually realize food doesnt come directly into it's home anymore, thus removong temptation to bite the hand that feeds.

[CallmeUmaster]

I do actualy feed her in another tub. She gets aggressive in her cage and when anyone besides me tries to do anything with her.

[Neal]

I can't really offer you any help as far as cage aggression. I feed mine in a seperate enclosure, and she's not cage aggressive. I don't think she would actually bite anybody, she's so laid back, and she's not head shy like most snakes.

Do you have any current photos of her?

[RichsBallPythons]

If shes cage aggrezssive it could be a feeding response. If you feed in a cage, buy a tub for feeding and try that out. It may eventually realize food doesnt come directly into it's home anymore, thus removong temptation to bite the hand that feeds.

Thats a myth, annies and retics can be notorious for being cage aggressive.

Feeding a 12ft+ snake out of the cage and then moving back, well have FUN with that.

[retic720]

. Does anyone know any better taming techniques or anything to help with that. She is cage agressive and hook trained but id like to not have to use the hook. She is relatively tame but she does have a temper. Also what would you say a healthy size is for a snake of her age?
Thanks!
Also, today for the first time since ive had her she refused a meal, odd?

She feeding now? Maybe she's "full"; my ball python would refuse meals for roughly 2 - 3 weeks before resuming regular feedings.

Cage aggression is one of my dilemmas with one of my retics; she knows it's play time if I gently tap her head with the top of a critter keeper or else she'll strike if I just up and pick her up.

Based on experience, I guess that's the closest you can get to taming her; I guess be lucky that your annie responds well to hook training?

Awaiting responses from other experienced herpers...

[mumps]

Be glad to help.

What type of enclosure do you keep her in?
How old is she, and how big is she?
You say "cage aggressive". Bullsnot. You just need to adjust your handling techniques and work regime. Answer my questions and we'll start from there.

Chris

[retic720]

Be glad to help.


You say "cage aggressive". Bullsnot. You just need to adjust your handling techniques and work regime. Answer my questions and we'll start from there.

Chris

Hi,

I may not own an annie but I have the same dilemma with one of my retics; I was told hook training is the way to go; this has worked for me (instead of a hook, i use the top of a critter keeper to gently tap her head; signalling it's play time. So far, it has always worked.) but is there a way we can eliminate the need to use an external stimulus (ie: a hook) so that she can be handled safely?

NOTE:

the "aggressive" retic that I have will only be "aggressive" during the pick up stage (aka, you don't have the external stimulus); once she's in your hands, she's "tame" as a ball. I know this is related to feeding response....but is there a chance she can be like my other retic, who can be picked up safely without any stimulus?

[CallmeUmaster]

She is in a 5ftL 3ftW 17inchT boamaster cage.
She is around 2 years old give or take, and well aslong as my leg. She doesnt look as big as she really is. id say she is in the 3 foot range.
She still hasnt eaten oddly, im going to offer her food again saturday ( thats my feeding day )
To be honest i dont handler her as often as i should but i am working on that, hard to do while in med school lol. She is cage agressive and the hook training method had worked with success. Like any annie she is unpredictable for the most part and to be honest i dont " trust " her, but when she is out of the cage she is for the most part pretty tame unless somone besides me gets near then she tries to bite said person(s). I just dont want to have to use a hook to get my snake out of her cage, i think it would be nice to be able to reach in and get her myself withought a hook or anything, and just getting her to calm down more would be great.
Hopfully she will eat.

[mumps]

Hey guys;

It's pretty much the same techniques involved - be it an anaconda or a retic or an African rock...

The boamaster cage opens from the front - that's perfect. With a front opening cage, you can open the door and just wait for your pet to come examine. You won't have to wait long, they sense the change in air flow and come exploring within a couple of minutes. All you have to do is make sure that the very first thing they smell when their head leaves the enclosure is your hand. They will either pause, and proceed out, or turn around and go back in, or try to find another route out. Mine always just keep coming out, as they know I am not a threat at all. It seems as if your snakes seem to know you are not a threat, so this shouldn't take long at all. If your snakes don't continue out right away, then some more "trust work" has to be done.

When I'm doing "trust work", I basically just do my regular enclosure maintenance, though I make sure to do something everyday; be it changing the water, or removing feces - whatever. Ensure that they get your scent; they don't have to make direct contact - just know it's you in there, and don't bother them AT ALL. No handling, petting or anything. Just do your thing, and leave them alone. This way they get to know that you are a regular, non-threatening part of their environment. Some animals may take longer than others (nervous monitor lizards take the most time; snakes are nothing).

I have never used "hook training", probably because I started doing this long before there were snake hooks widely available. An understanding of their intelligence, requirements, and being able to "read" your snake are invaluable tools as well. If you open the enclosure and can tell that your snake is definitely looking for food, it is best to not stick your hand in right away. I do, however, because I know the reaction that I'm going to get.

Also, never, ever ever smell like anything other than yourself. No soaps, hand creams, disinfecting solutions or anything on your hands. Just wash thoroughly with water. That way, the snake will never get confused with as to who is exactly opening their enclosure.

That's about it for now, I could go on forever, but my lunch is just about over and it's time for a smoke, lol.

Keep us posted.

And oh, I feel your annie is a little small. Mine is 3 years old and close to ten feet. I feed a lot in the first year and a half, until their second winter, because ALL young animals grow exponentially in the first year or two of their lives. It's how they survive. She has eaten one chicken and five jumbo rats since last October...

Chris