septicemia :(

[Nae]

I'm not familiar with a wooden viv. If the bottom is wood it can definitely be holding bacteria, mold, fungus, etc. I would consider this a possible irritant that may not be present in your beardie because of the humidity differences - less humidity would help to prevent the retention of molds and fungi. If the bottom of the viv is wooden definitely make sure your vet is aware so s/he can rule it out as a possible source of irritation.

[Foschi Exotic Serpents]

I agree with the people saying to increase the temps. Maybe try putting one more hide in there just on the edge on the hot side. So the snake doesnt need to choose safety over temperature. Have you vet give the snake a blood test (like was said). The wood might have something to do with it but using paper if its thick enough and the snake doesnt ever actually touch the wood bottom, it doesnt seem feesable. Not if you keep it as clean as you say. But remember that mold creates mold spores that become airborn. EVen if you cant see it.

Find out what antibiotc your vet has been giving. There are gram negative and gram positive bacteria. Some antibiotics only treat one. Some treat the other. Some treat both (broad spectrum). If hes giving the wrong thing your snake might not respond. (I needed to learn this for my fish)

Here is a link and a scary paragraph from it to show you how important it is to get those temps up.

"Another important consideration is the ambient temperature of the reptile's environment. Pharmacokinetic studies have shown that an increase in ambient temperature tends to increase both the volume of distribution and body clearance of the drug. A decrease in ambient temperature with a resultant decrease in body clearance could potentially allow a build up in concentration of the drug to a point where it might reach toxic levels if dosing is not decreased accordingly."

http://veterinarycalendar.dvm360.com.../detail/567299

[open_eyes]

Thanks for that draigess.she's using fortum 0.3ml twice a week injected.not sure if its broad spectrum or not,I'll check with her when I go back.I'm definitely guna ask about blood aswell.as for the temps, I think I'm guna need undertank heating but I think the temps will get 2 low without the red bulb aswell.what size heat mat wud u recommend for a 4ft viv and what thermostat?would this be ok 2 use in the type of viv iv got and if not any suggestions?I just want her to be well again.

[CritterVet]

Fortum = ceftazidime. That is a broad specturm antibiotic.

[Foschi Exotic Serpents]

The size of under tank heat mat should be around 1\3 the size of the bottom of the cage. Being wood it will be difficult to get the temp where you want it initially. There is no danger in putting it on wood. The flash point or fire point is around 500 degrees and under tank heaters even if they over heat should never get that hot. The biggest problem with this is that you should mount it to the bottom on the outside. Not the inside. Getting it to stay on wood can be difficult. They come with a sticky side but id use some foil tape around the edges as well. The cage should be raised enough to allow excess heat to escape from the bottom and so the cage does not sit on the cord. The thermostat controller probe should probably be placed on the inside of the cage to get a more accurate temp where the snake is. Another difficult task to make sure it doesnt move. Honestly i would rather invest in a ceramic heat emitter and mount it at the top in a place where the snake cant touch it. They last at least a year if they are not jarred. They put out alot of heat depending on wattage. They need to be screwed into a lamp with a ceramic socket which is rated for a higher wattage then you plan to use. You can find metal and ceramic drop lights at hardware stores that will work for a ceramic heat emitter bulb. You would still want to put a thermostat probe at the level the snake is at. 90 to 92 degrees on the warm side for a sick snake. 85 or so ambient temp on the cool side. How high is your cage and is it open screen at the top or front or is it enclosed?

[ClemonsKimberly]

I went to tubs. I have now got 7 snakes, and with all new tubs, UTH's and 2 hides for each - one on each side, the whole thing cost about 300 - thats not bad when you think about the fact that I have 9 to buy for! So you should really consider switching to tubs just to see if her condition improves as well as probably getting a 2nd vet opinion. The plus to tubs is they are easier to heat, they retain humidity better, the snake feels more protected, and you can definately sanitize it better! Just some food for thought.

[BPelizabeth]

Not that I know much ....pretty new to this ....however with that being said. Something that comes to mind reading this post is the fact that it is a wooden bottom cage. Unless the bottom is poly eurothene.(I totally spelled that wrong) basically unless that wood is sealed correctly then it IS a breeding ground for bacteria. Even if the wood was sealed.....after time the seal will wear. They find this with certain types of counter tops as well. The difference with the snake and the Beardie...is the Beardies use sand ....I think. I truly believe that this is the culprit of your snakes sickness and even if you get rid of the illness ....it will continue to occur. Even if you are using a great anti bacterial cleaner...it will not get out the ick in the wood. It is kind of like wooden cutting boards...they house TONS of bacteria even if you clean them.

[Tobias]

I'm good with human health conditions, but am novice with snake problems. The redness, or blood you descibe underneath the scales first sounds like a clotting disorder. These are typically hereditary (again, in humans) and there are many different ways to interrupt the clotting cascade, thus many different clotting disorders. Hemophilia is the general term for this. You didn't mention any bleeding from the mouth, vents, or cloaca, so that might rule this out. I would definitely request a CBC (complete blood count). Look specifically for an elevated white blood cell count, as this is an indication for some type of immune response to infection. Get these blood results when you notice the spots are getting worse.

When speaking to the effectiveness of the antibiotic, your problem becomes particularly interesting. If there is an infection present, the fact that the symptoms have not resolved would indicate that the organism is resistant to the antibiotic. So one would suggest to simply try another antibiotic. However, the fact that this has gone on for months leads me to believe that it is not an infection. Animals can only be septic for a short period before intervention is made and they get better, or they die. Also, significant weight loss might indicate that there is some type of pathogen involved.

This is an interesting problem. My suggestion would be to get some blood labs for interpretation. Best of luck to you.

[kjay]

i wouldnt doubt if your snake has an internal abcess that has never been addressed which could be causing the proble, an abcess can wall off making antibiotics hard to fully cure issue usually only treatable by surgery and drained sometimes radiologically with needle
its a guess but if its reoccuring and husbandry issues its possible

[reixox]

I hope you figure out what's causing all this trouble and that your little guy pulls through!