New snake not eating or is she going into shed?

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...om/iCWSiwR.jpgHi,
I got her 11 days ago and she is an 7 week old Lavender Het Pied BP. The breeder said that she was eating live pup rats so I tried frozen thawed as it is hard to get live rats where I live. I tried the first time after having her for 5 days and she didn't take it. I tried again 2 days later and she still wouldn't take it even after leaving it in her enclosure over night. I emailed the breeder and they said to try a live Hooper mice, but the only place that sells mice in my area it Petsmart/Petco and they only sell fancy mice, that were a bit larger. So I got the smallest one that they had and offered it to her last night but she didn't take it.
I have her in a Exo Terra 36x18x18 with 3 sides cover in a room all to herself. So I thought that I would try a 28qt tub to make her feel more secure and will try again tonight to get her to feed.
Temp is 90/85/80 and humidity is between 60to 65%
I wouldn't be that concerned if she was older but at only 7 weeks and her last meal was 15 days ago.
I have attached two photos of her.
Her eyes do look cloudy and I am hoping that she is going into shed and not sick. If she doesn't eat tomorrow I guess the only thing that I can do is take her to the Vet.
I know the hide looks too big for her but it is the only one that she will use. Never goes into the smaller one.
Any advice at this point would be great as I don't want to lose her.
https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...om/2c8tWNS.jpg

If her eyes are indeed cloudy*, don't keep offering food until after she sheds. (*double-check this in dark room with a small-bright-beam flashlight, shine across the arc of her eye)

It's harder to see the cloudiness of an impending shed on a light-colored or albino snake- this is something you need to get familiar with a.s.a.p.

Don't be too quick to take this young snake to a vet- that will only stress her further, & stress means she'll most likely refuse food. It's unlikely your snake is actually "sick"- this is a husbandry issue, & very few vets can or will help you with that. They specialize in medical & surgical treatment of injuries & illnesses; snake-keeping skills are what we do here, so keep reading & asking.
Vets don't have all day to review how you're keeping your snake, & how exactly you should offer food, etc.- a 'good' vet may try, but the wrong vet may prescribe something that can do more harm than good, on a hunch.

If you ever do need a vet- this site may help: https://arav.site-ym.com/search/custom.asp?id=3661 (But please, not yet.)

It's too late now, but you should not have bought a snake that's been started on live prey when you know it's not available where you are- it's a risky thing to try, especially if you're not very experienced with starting young snakes.

And I just posted this on another thread but it applies here too:
No handling the snake until it's settled in & feeding reliably (at least 3+ times for a hatchling- more is better, safer). Weighing a snake IS "handling"...don't do it! The time to weigh was right when you got him home & had to handle anyway. After that, not until he's settled in & feeding, or you can put him off eating at all. Eating is "job #1". Do NOT handle.

Many new snakes (of any age) won't eat right away, in the first week or more. They need time, & LOTS of privacy.

Feed EXACTLY what the snake was eating before you got them- make no changes until they're feeding reliably. If live, then feed live. If mouse, feed mouse. If rat, feed rat, as rodents all smell & (presumably) taste different.

Hatchlings are still learning & need to focus on just being a snake- feeling safe & secure, & learning to deal with prey- NOT with humans. So try to stay out of their way- keep their enclosure in a quiet place, block their "view" if needed. Avoid making adjustments to their home unless essential- the time to do that was before the snake arrived. Make sure the hides are the right size so the snake feels hidden.

If food is refused, don't keep offering right away- that adds to their stress & almost guarantees a failure. For a thin hatchling, wait 4-5 days before a retry; otherwise, wait a week or more before you try to feed again. Feed only at night, in dim light. Try not to be noticeable.

I was planning to reply and then I saw everything I had to say was written, and more. The advice above is great.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Erie_herps

I was planning to reply and then I saw everything I had to say was written, and more. The advice above is great.

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Thanks. You can catch the next one- none of us can be here all the time. ;)

Thanks for replying and giving good honest answers. I did some more research and joined a local reptile Facebook group and found a rodent breeder in my area.
There is also a Reptile Expo next weekend in my area where I can pickup live rodents.
I had emailed the breeder and they said the same thing as you, "Don't take her to the Vet at this time as it could only stress her out more". So I will just leave her alone for now and try to stop stressing so much.
I guess I was spoiled by my first BP that I have had for 2 months as he hasn't missed a feed yet and is growing fast.
Thanks again.

I'm glad you're making some helpful connections, including a local rodent breeder as well as the source of your snake. Just be patient- snakes each have their own personalities- & you'll "get there" with this one too. And please do keep us updated. She's real pretty, btw.

I wanted to give an update.
She finally ate tonight. I fed her a tiny fuzzy mouse (Freeze/thawed) and she took it.
The breeder said that she was eating Pup rats, but I am thinking that maybe they were to big for her liking.
Anyway I am just happy that she ate something.
She did shed too.

Great! & thanks for the update. Should all get easier from now on.