Corallus Caninus FORTAZ , PANACUR , REPTOBOOST treatment.

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Based on those original pictures, that animal is very underweight, and if its now coiling loosely, that is also not a good sign. Many will do that when its too warm, and indeed if an animal is fighting an infection heat generated from elevated metabolism might simply be causing it to coil looser. I assume the sides and back of the cage are covered? You want to give it as much shelter and isolation from stress as possible at this time.

When offering food, the best thing to do will be to try a live adult mouse or weaned rat. Place it in a high sided bowl directly under where it is perching, and with sides high enough that the rodent cannot jump out. This should retain the heat signal and scent close to the snake and stir some feeding interest, if hungry. Just putting the mouse or rat in the cage, if feed live, will only work if the snake is healthy and actively hunting. Put the rodent in at night, then leave it alone.

Warren

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Yes I will try that next time I offer food, right now he's too dehydrated bad shape so I'll wait till the meds do something and then try to feed today he started with the deworming hopefully in about 3,4 days I see results and get him to eat can't wait to finish his antibiotics and dewormer it's been a long time and we're both stressed out I guess we both need some peace and quiet.

That snake unfortunately looks very ill. Emeralds at that stage are incredibly hard to turn around. Feeding, if it starts to feed, needs to be taken carefully and slowly (meals every 3 weeks or so). Nothing larger than its mid body, etc. Regurgitation syndrome is extremely common in wild caught animals. This is one of the reason i recommend anyone interested in Emeralds to get a captive breed animals direct from a breeder as an establish baby. They are a tough species to keep. Not one for handling, but a great display animal.
Keep us posted on your feeding attempts. I would go ahead and try what I suggested above. Elevate the tub the rodent would be in to being close to the perch.
Warren

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Originally Posted by Panic2336

Yes I will try that next time I offer food, right now he's too dehydrated bad shape so I'll wait till the meds do something and then try to feed today he started with the deworming hopefully in about 3,4 days I see results and get him to eat can't wait to finish his antibiotics and dewormer it's been a long time and we're both stressed out I guess we both need some peace and quiet.

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How are you making out getting him to keep the reptiboost down and tolerated? Fortaz is a great medication for bacterial infections with virtually no adverse effects. Like all antibiotics though, boosting the ambient temperature aids in its effectiveness and raises the immune response in the animal as well. Good job.

I insert a tube into his stomach and give him reptaboost after administrating the meds I hold him head up and with my thumb I slightly press his belly from neck to tail massaging the meds downwards, and to be honest there's no spills he doesn't spit anything out and keeps it down but I must massage the body for a few minutes and have his head upwards or else will be a fail. Are you saying I should get my temps higher? Will that help with the cure ? Thanks bud.

I would be careful with increased temperatures here. The snake, based on your set up, has access to hotter temps. What temperature is e sitting at mainly? If it is the hottest temp, then yes, increase it a few degrees as he can move to a cooler area. If he is not at the hottest temp, then he can actively choose to move to a hotter temp if needed. Thermal stress is a big killer of Emeralds, so be careful.

Warren

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Panic2336

I insert a tube into his stomach and give him reptaboost after administrating the meds I hold him head up and with my thumb I slightly press his belly from neck to tail massaging the meds downwards, and to be honest there's no spills he doesn't spit anything out and keeps it down but I must massage the body for a few minutes and have his head upwards or else will be a fail. Are you saying I should get my temps higher? Will that help with the cure ? Thanks bud.

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Boosting the ambient temps by about 3F is a good barometer to help with the effectiveness chemotherapeutically of the antibiotic. In addition, it helps to raise the reptiles innate immune system. I would stay below the 5 degree setting bc that should be enough of a boosted temperature. Certainly you can check with the exotic vet to see how he feels about that.

I boost up the temp a bit more so my hot spot is about 93 I don't think that's too hot but if I'm wrong please correct me.