The Frugal Herper's Snake Rack

Design was shared by Justin Kobylka and is what he is using for his hatchlings and juvenile animals. Thank you Justin for such a wonderful design!

This is actually modified from his original design and yields more shelves.

Here's what you will need:

Tools:

Electric Saw (I did use a hand hack saw last year to cut all the legs by hand - TRUST me - it can be done - but use an electric one if you can - your hands will thank you!!!!)

Electric Drill

Materials:

Two plastic shelving units from Lowe's, Item #43008 is white, they do have it in black as well, but I've only used white. This particular model is only carried at Lowe's for $19 for a set.

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e9...k/IMG_5523.jpg

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e9...k/IMG_5524.jpg

You know you have the right one if two shelves together in the box have a "diamond" shape:

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e9...k/IMG_5525.jpg

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e9...k/IMG_5529.jpg

A sheet of Eucaboard from Home Depot, measuring 1/8" x 48" x 96". It's essentially pegboard without the holes. This is about $7.00

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e9...k/IMG_5532.jpg

Ask Home Depot to cut into 9 panels of 13.5" x 30.25". Should take 6 cuts - my Home Depot gave me the first 2 cuts for free, and the other 4 cuts for $0.25 each. So - $1.00 to cut.

They'll look like this:
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e9...k/IMG_5530.jpg

While you're at Home Depot, grab you a small box of 1" screws, Justin uses Drywall, I couldn't find them, so I grabbed these for about $5:

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e9...k/IMG_5535.jpg

Also get some Goop glue (about $3)
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e9...k/IMG_5537.jpg

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e9...k/IMG_5533.jpg

Now decide if you're going to make a juvenile rack, a hatchling rack, or a combo rack. I did a combo rack.

Small kitty litter pans from Walmart and 6 quart Sterilite shoebox tubs also from Walmart. Out of 2 shelving units, I'm getting 7 shelves - 15 kitty litter pans, 8 shoebox tubs. Van Ness small kitty litter pans are about $2 each, and the shoebox tubs are about $1 each.

Total expenditure (minus the heat tape and thermostat) for this rack is $94 and I can house 23 animals in it.

Next post - Assembly

When you open the shelving unit boxes, you'll get this:

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e9...k/IMG_5541.jpg

Two sides and the back of the shelving unit has a lip to it - you want to make sure as you put this rack together, that the lip is at the back - it's a stopper for your tubs, and one reason why this particular shelving unit was chosen for this design:

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e9...k/IMG_5539.jpg

Top of a shelf:
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e9...k/IMG_5542.jpg

Bottom of a shelf:
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e9...k/IMG_5543.jpg

On bottom of shelf - apply a thin layer of Goop along the long edges:
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e9...k/IMG_5547.jpg

Place a panel of the cut Eucaboard on top and set aside to dry (I dried for about 24 hours)

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e9...k/IMG_5548.jpg

Repeat on six more shelves (if you are using the 2 storage unit design). I did not put any on the last shelf, because that last shelf was the base, and the top was what the bottom tubs sat on, and the bottom of the shelf is on the floor.

After 24 hours comes the fun part!

For the kitty litter pans, we cut the legs to six inches (a little short, so that you can adjust the top shelf on each level, then use the screws as stoppers). A note here - you want to cut about 1/4" short on the very first (or bottom) level, because it's not using the Eucaboard, and therfore, needs to be a little shorter to account for that height difference between shelves.

Here's my father measuring a six inch cut with one that we used as the "master" cut:

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e9...k/IMG_5586.jpg

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e9...k/IMG_5587.jpg

And Dad cutting with the electric saw:

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e9...k/IMG_5588.jpg

One shelf done!!!

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e9...k/IMG_5581.jpg

We drilled a hole big enough to use the screw as a stopper, once we were happy with the "seating" of the shelf on top of the tubs:

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e9...k/IMG_5582.jpg

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e9...k/IMG_5583.jpg

Two shelves done:
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e9...k/IMG_5589.jpg

And for the six quart tubs, the legs need to be cut to 7". The final rack, just needs heat tape and a thermostat and it's ready to go:

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e9...k/IMG_5594.jpg

You'll notice that my bottom shelf doesn't have any kitty litter pans - my two Walmarts ran out of blue, so I need to wait for them to get some more in - so my rack can be uniform - but it's 5 layers of juvie tubs and 2 layers of baby tubs!

hmmm interesting design.what's the gap between the top of the tub and the shelf,will you need to drill holes in the tubs?

does the heat tape go directly on the shelf or is there a way to countersink it so the tubs slid over the heat tape?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by twh

hmmm interesting design.what's the gap between the top of the tub and the shelf,will you need to drill holes in the tubs?

does the heat tape go directly on the shelf or is there a way to countersink it so the tubs slid over the heat tape?

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It's about 1/16" to 1/8" gap, and the baby rack that I have been using for a year (the original design that uses the shelves back to back) does not have ventilation holes in the tubs:

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e9.../BabyRack2.jpg

Justin doesn't have ventilation holes in the tubs either - but there's no reason why some can't be added.

The heat tape does go directly on the shelf.

I like it. Sounds easy to assemble, and for how many tubs it holds, you can save a penny.

Excellent directions and photos btw, 5 stars. ;)

PS: Gotta love those fridge friendly soda boxes. :P

One tool that I forgot to mention is a rubber mallet. It really helps to use that to tap down the corners to get just the amount of snugness that you want with your tubs.

Much awesomeness! And way to go on laying out the photos to explain it clearly!

Very informative.....This should be a sticky

Excellent DIY, Robin. Definitely sticky worth as it is an easy build and houses a lot of snakes in a very cost effective rack. I particularily like how I can plug in only as many shelves as I need running. We had Rich at Reptile Basics just send us the strips of 3" flexwatt pre-wired.

We used the original design last year which houses 4 6 qt tubs per shelf, a total of 8 shelves = 36 hatchlings. It's been a fanastic rack (thank you Justin!). When we moved recently, it moved perfectly and fits through any standard doorway. Basically, if Mike and I can build this type of rack - anybody can! LOL

Edit: now stickied :)

This could fit a 41qt sterilite underbed tub... Right?

This would provide a nice cheap solution to my plans to breed this coming season... but only if it can fit my big girls.

And oh, very nice plans! Cheap, easy, and effective =D

I can't edit my post. Sorry =/

Anyway, it wont work for any 41qt, it doesn't have the depth.

This is the thread that got me hooked on this forum :-)

I like it Robin I wanna build one now.:gj:

I will be working on a rack like this next payday lol. I like projects like this. I haven't really had this much fun since building my wet/dry filtration for my 210gal aquarium.
Back to the hardware store for me!!!!

Thanks Robin, I built 2 with Iris shoeboxes, I was emailing justin the week before you posted this asking him what model shelves he had used, then a few days later saw this. Havent installed heat yet.

BTW you did a great job on the writeup, was very simple to follow.

I have a couple of these guys and they are great for the hatchlings and to make quick quarrantine setups:gj:

would this work if i cant find eucabord?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tiexecutioner

would this work if i cant find eucabord?

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no that board will fall apart and will also swell

Eucaboard is more commonly known as masonite, temperboard or (tempered) hardboard. It measures 1/8" or 3/16" usually.

Do you have any sagging problems with the temperboard? It seems like it would be better to use the temperboard as the top and set the tubs on the shelf. Maybe it is different than what it seems, but I get the picture that there is about a 1+" gap between the top of one shelf to the temperboard floor of the level above it.

Well the Eucabord could react with humidity and water. While it won't happen with plastic.

The eucabord is there to support the tubs and heat tape. You could use something else, but I don't think you will find something that will do the job as cheap.

btw : Was there any one who know where to find these in Canada ? Even on the US lowes website, I couldn't find them.
The only thing close to it was this



http://images.lowes.com/product/045989/045989017267.jpg

And this is what I find around here in Canada but a bit more expensive.
The 24'' versions are at 89.99$. Not sure it's even worth to build these instead of melamine, other than it's "light weight".

ive really been thinking about this rack and just thought for longevity it might be better off using the shelf upside down so you have a plastic top and the wood on the bottom, but then at that point you have to think about sagging

There's always this option, which is two of the Lowes shelving units, yielding four levels and no Eucaboard:

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e9.../BabyRack2.jpg

You have to flip back and forth, using the plastic shelf for both the bottom and the top - I "think" the cuts were 7" each for the legs and then a shorter 3" cut to "couple" the levels together.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rabernet

There's always this option, which is two of the Lowes shelving units, yielding four levels and no Eucaboard:

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e9.../BabyRack2.jpg

You have to flip back and forth, using the plastic shelf for both the bottom and the top - I "think" the cuts were 7" each for the legs and then a shorter 3" cut to "couple" the levels together.

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robin thats what actually made me think about doing it upside down. but you would get more shelves and keep the price lower if you used the other route

I taught they were already upside down.

There is only eucaboard at the bottom.

If you flip it, you have plastic on top, and eucaboard at the bottom.

The only rack I was able to find, at some holes in them. But I taught of using some mesh or screen on it. That will prevent escapes and would help with humidity probably, since my humidity levels are too high.

Will see what I decide in a few months....

yeah i had the exact same problem so i built my rack out of the ones with holes and simply left the tops on the tubs

I had the same problem trying to locate the shelf units. I will actually look in the store at lunch and see what I can find.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Watever

Well the Eucabord could react with humidity and water. While it won't happen with plastic.

The eucabord is there to support the tubs and heat tape. You could use something else, but I don't think you will find something that will do the job as cheap.

btw : Was there any one who know where to find these in Canada ? Even on the US lowes website, I couldn't find them.
The only thing close to it was this

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...858&lpage=none

http://images.lowes.com/product/045989/045989017267.jpg

And this is what I find around here in Canada but a bit more expensive.
The 24'' versions are at 89.99$. Not sure it's even worth to build these instead of melamine, other than it's "light weight".

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Watever

I taught they were already upside down.

There is only eucaboard at the bottom.

If you flip it, you have plastic on top, and eucaboard at the bottom.

The only rack I was able to find, at some holes in them. But I taught of using some mesh or screen on it. That will prevent escapes and would help with humidity probably, since my humidity levels are too high.

Will see what I decide in a few months....

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In the second example - the plastic shelving is the bottom AND the top - you flip it either right side up or vice versa as you build up your shelves. Where my original post took two shelving units to make 7 levels, the second example took the same two shelving units to make 4 levels - with no Eucaboard. So - bottom shelf - right side up, the top is upside down, followed by right side up, upside down, etc.

The second example houses less animals, and therefore is a little more expensive, but solves some member's worries about the Eucaboard warping or sagging. .

I was indeed able to find the shelf units at the local Lowes. Will update once the project is complete and post pics as well. The only change I plan on making is using wood that will be routed to facilitate the heat tape I plan to add for belly heat...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by brad2362

I had the same problem trying to locate the shelf units. I will actually look in the store at lunch and see what I can find.

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Very nice and it looks much lighter then the melamine shelves that some of us have far too many of. :)

Any ideas for other kinds of juvenile tubs? The small Van Ness kitty litter pans at my Wal-Warts have a slight incline and lip on them making their top edges uneven with the roof of the shelf.

I envy your creativity and ingenuity; I am one of those people that has to buy everything pre-made.

So what do you use now that van ness has changed their kitty litter pan design?? I have the shelves and now Im stuck because i cant find pans/tubs for it :confused::confused: Please help!

I am in the same boat, just bought the shelves saturday, finally found the van
ness kitty litter pans today, and as I was leaving noticed that they have that incline. So I guess now I am out looking for a different tub or just using the 6 quart tubs. I sure was excited about the larger tubs for my geckos though

Luckily I found some when I built mine but this should help:
http://www.ball-pythons.net/forums/s...t=65939&page=3

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Falconsmith

Luckily I found some when I built mine but this should help:
http://www.ball-pythons.net/forums/s...t=65939&page=3

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Unfortunately those small litter pans won't work for this particular shelving unit. Those pans are 16x12", while the shelves are only 14.5"D. These pans won't fit unless you put them in sideways which isn't a good use of space. The Petmate litter pans seem to have the same dimensions as the Van Ness, the smalls are around $2 at petstore.com, I think I am going to try them.

Well......I must say it is truly amazing to see my original design for a hatchling rack that I showed Justin how to build end up on bp.net. I do love the modifications that have been done to it you truly can get more shelves out of it. I hope it helps.


Thanks, Jonathan Bryan (Eyeball)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Eyeball

Well......I must say it is truly amazing to see my original design for a hatchling rack that I showed Justin how to build end up on bp.net. I do love the modifications that have been done to it you truly can get more shelves out of it. I hope it helps.


Thanks, Jonathan Bryan (Eyeball)

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Jonathan,

Thank you for sharing your design with Justin and allowing him to share it with others and giving permission to him to post the DIY! Definitely want to give you credit!

it's a great Idea, I would use 1/4 white melamine, instead of the masonit board, a little more expensive but hat would resolve the humidity problem, I,m also wondering about the cat litter boxes, how do you deal with light? To maintain the right foto period to the snakes?

Question, how tall is this rack finished? (the first one) I am thinking I would like to use back heat, and putting some of the eucaboard on the back so I can use backheat instead. This comes out looking professional, at a great price!

Thanks so much for this! I decided to make one for #1851 6qt sterilites and #49400 Interdesign containers. It's awesome and I can always add to it later. I went with the black, obviously.

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/c...1/DSC01581.jpg

Looking nice....I like the black look on it better also...I thought og making it with the vision baby tubs ,b but i believe they are too long..:rage:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by hmj75

Looking nice....I like the black look on it better also...I thought og making it with the vision baby tubs ,b but i believe they are too long..:rage:

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Most of my other racks are black, so it just made sense! I have 1 white rack that sticks out like a sore thumb... Maybe I can find someone who will trade me for a black :P Oh, and Lowes carries various plastic shelving, I'm sure you could find a deeper shelf for a little bit more money.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by abi21491

Most of my other racks are black, so it just made sense! I have 1 white rack that sticks out like a sore thumb... Maybe I can find someone who will trade me for a black :P Oh, and Lowes carries various plastic shelving, I'm sure you could find a deeper shelf for a little bit more money.

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hey now abi i didnt know u had that many snakes :o

And how come them tubs look empty :colbert::colbert::colbert:

Think u need to fill em :gj:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by f4n70m

hey now abi i didnt know u had that many snakes :o

And how come them tubs look empty :colbert::colbert::colbert:

Think u need to fill em :gj:

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Agreed! Right now I only have 7 animals in it, but more will come I'm sure :P

Could i use the Plano brand one?

The Plano shelves (from what I've seen) are not suitable for this application as there is a slight indention in the middle of each shelf. Also I think the dimensions might be a bit off (the shelves aren't deep enough I think). Then again if you're creative you might be able to get something together that works using the Plano shelves. I just completed this rack using the shelves from Lowes...if you can find those it's a breeze to build this. Thanks to everyone for passing this tutorial along!

So can someone please tell me where i can buy or order properly sized tubs? I didnt find a sterilite that was similar to the kitty pans anywhere.
Edit:
Idk who skreptiles is, i have no affiliation!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SK_Exotics

So can someone please tell me where i can buy or order properly sized tubs? I didnt find a sterilite that was similar to the kitty pans anywhere.
Edit:
Idk who skreptiles is, i have no affiliation!

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I found 10" x 14" x 4" tubs at my local Deals Store (a dollar store). I bought all my store had (about 36). They're an off-brand, but if I find them online I'll post a link here.

BTW, the Plano shelves have 3 'ribs' on the underside of the shelves that extend about 1/4" beyond the flat edges where you would glue the eucaboard pieces. If you could somehow cut this protrusion down (it's somewhat thin and soft plastic) they would work and will be more sturdy than the Lowes shelves. I didn't have the time or energy to cut them so I returned the Plano units (bought from Menards hardware) and went with the Lowes shelves instead, which may not be around for much longer...my Lowes only had 4 white units and 1 beige, but the black units were a different style, without a raised lip and the shelves are grated/open. Looks like they're changing styles. I feared that this may happen. :( On the other hand you could always use eucaboard on both sides and cover the side that faces the tub openings with adhesive plastic shelf liner. I used shelf liner on my melamine rack and after 3 years I still have no warping!

Once my rack's complete I'll post pics.

I completed my rack, which ended up using 3 units, stands almost 7 feet tall, and will hold 3 adult tubs on the bottom, 12 baby tubs in the middle, and 15 sub-adult tubs at the top. Without heat, t-stat and tubs, this unit only cost me $98 to build!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...s/BabyRack.jpg

It was fairly easier to build, but was a bit tricky in adjusting the shelves so they fit just right. I found that it was best to make the leg-tube cuts at least 1/4" short, but a bit more wouldn't hurt. Why? Because the leg-holes have these plastic protrusions within which are meant to increase the plastic's friction to hold the legs in place. But the closer you get to the end of the hole the more friction they place on the legs, which makes it real difficult to adjust the legs in fractions of an inch so that the shelves lay across the tubs "just right" for smooth movement. I actually would rather cut the legs way short (1/2") and simply use screws for stops at the tops and bottoms of the legs, which I did for the bottom shelves since they have a lot more weight pushing down on them than the top shelves do...especially if you go as high as I did. :oops:

Additionally, keep in mind that these shelves are manufactured under not-the-best-of quality standards...I had a few 'tops' (the turned-over shelves that serve at the tops of the tubs) that were ever-so slightly warped, making the middle tubs tighter than the ends. In those cases in order to move the middle tubs smoothly I had to loosen the space to the point that the end-tubs then slid past the lip-stop in the back. To account for this I simply placed large binder clips on the back lip at the point of those end-tubs. The binder clips then keep those tubs from sliding past the back of the shelves. Another option would have been to add felt adhesive pads to the bottoms of those end-tubs so they sit higher...but the binder clips are cheaper.

I hope this info helps. If and when I need another rack I will make another of these...much, MUCH easier than melamine and they also look better! :gj:

For those asking, what shelves can they use instead or where I can buy these tubs.

You forget this is a do it yourself project, you can adapt it it fit any shelf or tub you want, just change the measurements.