Bought my first BP yesterday! I have a few questions...

Yesterday I purchased my first BP he's about 2 ft long right now and seems to very active. I've named him/her "Killswitch" after one of my favorite bands. I'm assuming this is because of his new home and his feeding time was yesterday. I'm going to wait until Monday until holding him again and feeding him so he can get acquainted with his new home. I have a few questions though.

1. What humidity levels should I try to keep his terrarium at? I live in a very hot+humid area (San Antonio) so I want to make sure they're not too high or too low.

2. After feeding him and putting him back in his terrarium how long should I wait before handling him again. I'm guessing 24-48 hours but I just want to be sure.

3. I think it's a male based on a few videos I've seen determining the sex of a BP. I'm going to make an appointment for a vet next week so I'll know for sure by then. Are there any questions I should ask the vet?

Any other recommendations are greatly appreciated!

Here's a few pics of Killswitch and his terrarium. My camera really sucks for a few shoots. :snake::snake::snake:

http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/3480/pict0108y.th.jpg
http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/3052/pict0114b.th.jpg
http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/5226/pict0115u.th.jpg
http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/8334/pict0119v.th.jpg
http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/312...0121lpd.th.jpg
http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/3753/pict0123u.th.jpg
http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/644...0125iyk.th.jpg
http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/5107/pict0130h.th.jpg
http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/478...0132pwt.th.jpg
http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/7172/pict0133u.th.jpg

1) The humidity should be kept between 50-60%
2) you're right, 24-48 hrs
3) there's no way to tell the sex by looking at them. you're vet will be able to tell you though

Also i just was looking at your pictures and it looks like you may want to change his setup around a bit. Half log hides are not good for snakes as they are too open. Also you should ideally have two identical hides instead of just one (one on the warm side one on cool side)

1) The humidity level should be between 50%-60%. It can go as low as 40% too.
2) After you feed the snake, you should let it alone for a day or two. If the snake is fed a large meal (such as two mice/rats instead of one or a mouse/rat that is larger than the snake normally eats) you should wait at least two days to handle the snake again.
3) You should ask the vet to probe the snake. This is the most accurate way to tell your snake's sex. Some vets will do popping, but most do probing so your vet may just do probing but make sure to ask him what technique are you going to use to determine my snake's sex/gender?
4) Your setup seems pretty good. Do you have a heating pad as your heat source? If you do, make sure you have two thermometers (to tell the temps on both ends of the enclosure) and a thermostat to control the heat if it gets too hot or too cold so it's just right for the snake. Look up the temps on the care sheet on this site, it should help you out.
The half log hide is just fine, I use it for most of my reptile collection. Though, you will need two of the half log hides because one goes on the warm side (where the heating source is located) and the other goes on the cool side (where the water dish is located). That should be it, and your setup looks pretty good. And also, your snake is a cute and beautiful little guy.. or girl? Guess you will find out when you take it to the vet:)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Fallout32

Also i just was looking at your pictures and it looks like you may want to change his setup around a bit. Half log hides are not good for snakes as they are too open. Also you should ideally have two identical hides instead of just one (one on the warm side one on cool side)

---

Thanks for the tip! I'm still playing around with his setup but I'll do try this.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by syvil

Yesterday I purchased my first BP he's about 2 ft long right now and seems to very active. I've named him/her "Killswitch" after one of my favorite bands. I'm assuming this is because of his new home and his feeding time was yesterday. I'm going to wait until Monday until holding him again and feeding him so he can get acquainted with his new home. I have a few questions though.

1. What humidity levels should I try to keep his terrarium at? I live in a very hot+humid area (San Antonio) so I want to make sure they're not too high or too low.

2. After feeding him and putting him back in his terrarium how long should I wait before handling him again. I'm guessing 24-48 hours but I just want to be sure.

3. I think it's a male based on a few videos I've seen determining the sex of a BP. I'm going to make an appointment for a vet next week so I'll know for sure by then. Are there any questions I should ask the vet?

Any other recommendations are greatly appreciated!

Here's a few pics of Killswitch and his terrarium. My camera really sucks for a few shoots. :snake::snake::snake:

---

Okie doke. First of all WELCOME TO BP.NET!!!!! This is by far the best site you could have come to in regards to ball python care.

The super active-ness will calm down once your snake gets settled in. It is just his way of saying "Where am I??? Let me outta here!!".

Before I even address your questions, there are a few things you should know.
1. Those stick on thermometers and hygrometers are no good. They can be as far as 10* or % off which isn't very useful when you need a 10* temp gradient. Invest in some quality digital thermometers and at least one with an external probe.
2. Any heat source you have must have some kind of control or else you risk burning or even cooking your snake. A reptile thermostat like the reptitemp 500r is what I recommend to new snake owners. If you can't find one in a store, get a piggy back light dimmer from the home depot until you can order one online and have it shipped to you.

Now for your questions!

The humidity should be around 50-60% and 70% when the snake is shedding.

Sounds like you are going to feed in a separate container. To be completely honest, this is unnecessary and is just more hassle for you and more stressful for the snake. Feeding him in his home enclosure will not make your snake cage aggressive or make him associate your hand with food. No matter how many times you have read it, it isn't true.

Make sure (as others have said) that your snake is probed by the vet.


Another thing I want to address is your hides. Ball pythons like tight dark spaces and the half log hides don't really do it for them. Your best bet is two tight fitting rock cave like hides. If you are cheap like me you can go to the dollar store and get some opaque bowls and cut a small opening in the side. Make sure the snake barely fits in the hides. My snakes don't even fit into their hides but they still use them!
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3437/...084a59.jpg?v=0

Good luck with your new snake! :)

I went and bought some better hide outs for him and removed the half-log he tensed up and laid a few strikes on me I was able to put one on the cool end of the cage and I'll wait until he settles down before I put the other on the warm end of the cage. I'm assuming this is because he's in his new habitat, hungry and still nervous with me. He didn't latch on... just a quick bite and release.

Yeah, baby snakes are usually very nervous because everything is a potential predator. Give him some alone time (a week) and he should start to realize that you are not going to eat him.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by syvil

I'm assuming this is because he's in his new habitat, hungry and still nervous with me. He didn't latch on... just a quick bite and release.

---

Those are defensive strikes... BPs are a shy snake.

All hail the teeth! He is just letting you know to take it slow and let him acclimate. They have limited means of communicating. :)

He is not going to mistake you for food...

Welcome to the site, and to the world of BPs. They are a great snake to have around. :D

Bruce

Thanks everyone for your helpful tips. The bites startled more so than hurt me. I have no marks so either he was head butting me or he doesn't have a strong bite right now ;)

I threw a small hand towel over him, moved him and put the other hiding place in the warm side of the terriaum where the heating pad is. Hopefully I didn't stress him out too much for the day.

My favorite band is Killswitch Engage too!!Rock on!

I talked to the breeder today and he told me that the most recent batch that Killswitch was in has been really aggressive for some reason. Any tips on calming him down?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by syvil

I talked to the breeder today and he told me that the most recent batch that Killswitch was in has been really aggressive for some reason. Any tips on calming him down?

---

Leave him alone and get him some nice tight hides and clutter up his enclosure. Making him feel safe is the first step to calming him done. Ball pythons are usually aggressive because they are trying to defend themselves from predators (you). Once they figure out that you aren't going to eat them they will calm down.

i love quizzes =D

1. What humidity levels should I try to keep his terrarium at? I live in a very hot+humid area (San Antonio) so I want to make sure they're not too high or too low.
humidity needs to be between 50 - 60, but during his shed, bump it to 70

2. After feeding him and putting him back in his terrarium how long should I wait before handling him again. I'm guessing 24-48 hours but I just want to be sure.
i wait 48 hours before checking on my snakes (changing water, handling, checking for mites, etc...)

3. I think it's a male based on a few videos I've seen determining the sex of a BP. I'm going to make an appointment for a vet next week so I'll know for sure by then. Are there any questions I should ask the vet?
just enure it has no int/external parasites, or mites, no RIs, if its the correct size, the size prey that the vet recommends for it.

as for ur setup, i havent read everyones comments so im not sure wut was suggested already, but make sure u have a heat pad WITH something to regulate its temps, as well as a digital thermometer. aaand teh snake needs 2 identical hides, the only reason half logs aren't preferred is bc they have 2 openings, and bps feel more secure in something small, dark, tight, and has ONE opening. i used to have 2 identical half logs, but they were pushed up against the sides of the tank which was covered with foil to make it appear as though it has only 1 entrance.

congrats on teh new bp =D
welcome to the site (it will DEFINATELY save ur butt if u need it to)
GL on the changes =p

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Kaorte

Leave him alone and get him some nice tight hides and clutter up his enclosure. Making him feel safe is the first step to calming him done. Ball pythons are usually aggressive because they are trying to defend themselves from predators (you). Once they figure out that you aren't going to eat them they will calm down.

---

Besides putting in the new hideouts and removing the half-log I've left him alone. I bought two identical hideouts and placed them on the cool and hot side of the terrarium. I'll take some new pics of the setup and post them later. He seems to have taken refuge in the hideout on the cold side of the terrarium and hasn't come out since yesterday. I'll definitely give him his alone time :snake:

Here's the changes I have made to his terrarium. Two identical hiding places.He's currently housed up in the one on the left the one on the right is where the heating pad under the terrarium is located.

http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/4632/pict0134m.jpg

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by syvil

I talked to the breeder today and he told me that the most recent batch that Killswitch was in has been really aggressive for some reason. Any tips on calming him down?

---

The best way is to ensure that he feels secure in his new home with small tight hides. It's good you got rid of the 1/2 log hide - they don't provide the security that ball pythons require. Then let him have at least a week to acclimate to his new enclosure.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by rabernet

The best way is to ensure that he feels secure in his new home with small tight hides. It's good you got rid of the 1/2 log hide - they don't provide the security that ball pythons require. Then let him have at least a week to acclimate to his new enclosure.

---

Will do... what about feeding should I just hold off another week before feeding him as well?

I would give him about one week by himself before you feed him. If you have moved stuff around here and there just a couple times I do not think it will be any big deal and you should be able to feed him a week after you put him in his home. For example I just got two babies about a week ago and I have had them out to weigh and measure, take a couple pics, and clean their enclosure and refresh their water, each event on a different day. I will feed them on Monday. If they do not take then I will wait a day or so and try again.

There's a pic you posted with the snake in the water bowl...

Can someone confirm if this may be a possibility of mites?

Im not too sure...so don't get worried...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Montie Python

There's a pic you posted with the snake in the water bowl...

Can someone confirm if this may be a possibility of mites?

Im not too sure...so don't get worried...

---

I don't see any evidence of mites in that picture.
However a good thing to do would be to put some white papertowls or plain white paper in the bottom of your eclosure and let your snake crawl around on that for a little bit. If you see little black bugs all over the paper/papertowls then you have a mite problem.

To check on the snake, they are usually most visible around the eyes and nose. Mites are about the side of the head of a pin, so they are small and you have to look closely.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Montie Python

There's a pic you posted with the snake in the water bowl...

Can someone confirm if this may be a possibility of mites?

Im not too sure...so don't get worried...

---

That picture was taken minutes after putting him in the terrarium for the first time when he was all over it exploring. I'll definitely try what knott00 recommended. I examined him very closely when I first got him and didn't see any evidence of mites nor was there any debris left over on my hands/arms while I was holding him.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by DM1975

I would give him about one week by himself before you feed him. If you have moved stuff around here and there just a couple times I do not think it will be any big deal and you should be able to feed him a week after you put him in his home. For example I just got two babies about a week ago and I have had them out to weigh and measure, take a couple pics, and clean their enclosure and refresh their water, each event on a different day. I will feed them on Monday. If they do not take then I will wait a day or so and try again.

---

Just a little suggestion, if your snakes refuse food the first week, just wait until the second week. Don't attempt to feed day after day.

But yes, wait a week from the day you got the snake to try feeding.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Kaorte

Sounds like you are going to feed in a separate container. To be completely honest, this is unnecessary and is just more hassle for you and more stressful for the snake. Feeding him in his home enclosure will not make your snake cage aggressive or make him associate your hand with food. No matter how many times you have read it, it isn't true.

---

It all depends on the snake. I have some snakes that would rather eat in the cage and some that like to be put in the feeding boxes cuz then they know its time to eat. It all depends on what you teach your snake to get use to, and reading your python. If it seems to eats better, or seems to like one way or the other better, do it that way. Some of the "cage agressive" things you hear about depends on the time of year also. Right now almost every single one of my snakes is very agressive and sometimes even strike the side of the tub if I walk to close by. Lol, not that I mind them eating alot though!!
Anyways, just pointing out there is other ways to do it. Like the rest of your pointers though!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by coolluigi007

It all depends on the snake. I have some snakes that would rather eat in the cage and some that like to be put in the feeding boxes cuz then they know its time to eat. It all depends on what you teach your snake to get use to, and reading your python. If it seems to eats better, or seems to like one way or the other better, do it that way. Some of the "cage agressive" things you hear about depends on the time of year also. Right now almost every single one of my snakes is very agressive and sometimes even strike the side of the tub if I walk to close by. Lol, not that I mind them eating alot though!!
Anyways, just pointing out there is other ways to do it. Like the rest of your pointers though!

---

I agree, I just don't want people doing it for the wrong reasons. Most people think that by feeding in a separate enclosure, they are reducing the risk of bites and "cage aggression" but it i s simply not true.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Kaorte

Just a little suggestion, if your snakes refuse food the first week, just wait until the second week. Don't attempt to feed day after day.

But yes, wait a week from the day you got the snake to try feeding.

---

I think I made that sound all wrong, sorry ,my fault. I will usually attempt one more feeding within the next day or two, not once a day every day. After that I will wait till the next week. Now, I have been blessed on my snakes with no real feeding problems besides for a couple times during the winter, and that might be the complete wrong way to do it, but that is how I have done it.

Next time I have that issue I will just hold off an entire week instead of trying a day or two later.

I stopped by Walmart and picked up an $8 Acurite Thermometer/Hygrometer and well you guys were right. My analog thermometer was off by about 4-5 degrees however the analog hygrometer was off by 10-20%

Yea those analog thermo/hygrometers are bassically junk. The accurites are the cheapest, best way to go.

In case anyone is wondering which one I bought I got this one

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA280_.jpg

Good. I love the high and low feature, it helps see any major variations and possible problems.

Welcome to the site! :) I think everyone's addressed your questions already, but I'll add one observation... you'll want to get something to cover 3 walls of the tank, so he/she doesn't feel too exposed. I use the fancy aquarium backgrounds, but some people just put black paper or foil around the outside. Good luck with the new baby, and I hope he/she settles down soon!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by syvil

In case anyone is wondering which one I bought I got this one

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA280_.jpg

---

Cool. :gj: I have a different model of Accu-rite, and it's fabulous!

Btw, I live in a very dry climate too, and it's difficult keeping the humidity high enough in the glass tank. I'm switching to tubs/racks soon, which you might consider eventually... in the meantime, keep a spray bottle for misting, and throw in some wet moss during shed time.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Lolo76

Welcome to the site! :) I think everyone's addressed your questions already, but I'll add one observation... you'll want to get something to cover 3 walls of the tank, so he/she doesn't feel too exposed. I use the fancy aquarium backgrounds, but some people just put black paper or foil around the outside. Good luck with the new baby, and I hope he/she settles down soon!

---

I was reading some threads on this this past weekend and I'm going to do this. I'm just trying to figure out which route I want to go... foil, black paper, fancy, ect...

The humidity levels are pretty good on their own. I was thinking they were very low but it turns as you guys said my analogs meters sucked ;)

I'm going to feed him on Friday and leave him alone for the rest of this upcoming weekend. Besides changing his water and putting in the new thermometer I have left him alone. He finally came out last night after staying in his new hideout for about 2 days. He was out for little bit then retreated into the other hideout on the cool side of the terrarium.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by syvil

I was reading some threads on this this past weekend and I'm going to do this. I'm just trying to figure out which route I want to go... foil, black paper, fancy, ect...

The humidity levels are pretty good on their own. I was thinking they were very low but it turns as you guys said my analogs meters sucked ;)

I'm going to feed him on Friday and leave him alone for the rest of this upcoming weekend. Besides changing his water and putting in the new thermometer I have left him alone. He finally came out last night for a little bit then retreated into the other hideout on the cool side of the terrarium.

---

Black poster board will work just fine. im glad you got your humidity under control. As long as hes hiding consider yourself a good parent, a hiding ball python is a happy one.

So I took the advice of a few people and decided to cover up 3 sides on my snakes terrarium. I took some pictures to show anyone interested in what I used/did.

First off the supplies the supplies needed. I got all 3 items from Walmart (minus measuring tape).

Tri-fold Foam Display Board - $10
Box Cutters - $2
Double Stick Tape - $3
Total Price - $15

http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/4193/pict0145a.jpg
Back cover...the humidity is low as I opened the cage for measuring.

http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/5150/pict0146e.jpg
I added a piece for the top to keep humidity in leaving room for air. I throw a very light towel over it to weight it down
http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/5382/pict0147i.jpg

I then measured all the sides where the glass is visible only! After some measuring and cutting here's what I came up with. It was almost impossible for me to cut a straight line on all the pieces don't worry if you can't it really doesn't matter as long as it's straight enough.

http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/6505/pict0148l.jpg
http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/7930/pict0151x.jpg
http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/3451/pict0152t.jpg
http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/8039/pict0153d.jpg
http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/9777/pict0154t.jpg
http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/6643/pict0155i.jpg
http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/9104/pict0156e.jpg

I also had another question... I'm going to feed Killswitch on Friday besides covering the 3 ends of his terrarium, changing his water and occasionally misting I have left his home alone. He's been spending most of his time hidden away in the hideout on the cool end of the terrarium (left). He came out the other morning while I was on my way to work and had his head popped out of his hideout this morning also. I'm guessing he comes out late at night when I'm already asleep.

Anyway I've decided to feed him in a separate container for now. As that's how the breeder was feeding him. As previously stated he's been very aggressive and getting bitten/struck at is a certainty but that's not what I'm afraid of. After feeding how should I pick him up and put him back in his home so I don't injury him and how long should I wait after he has eaten his meal?

I've never seen the need in feeding in a separate enclosure. I used to do it with my corn, but then stopped and never looked back. I feed my BP in his enclosure and when I reach in to take him out he's as gentle as can be. The aggression you're seeing is most likely because he's just not used to being his enclosure completely or being handled. But if you do decide to feed in a separate enclosure, wait until the prey item passes past his neck at least. Preferably after he's worked it all the way down. after that just pick him up normally and put him back right away. No need to worry about injuring him

I would re think putting the foam board on top of the screen, it will actually absorb more humidity from the air.

You are more likely to get bit when feeding in a separate enclosure. I don't know what kind of breeder would feed in a separate enclosure. If you are breeding snakes that is a lot of mouths to feed. Taking them all out of their tubs, moving them to a different tub, feeding them, and then waiting 30 minutes would make feeding take HOURS.

Sounds like you are doing pretty well! Your snake is real nice looking. I feed my snakes in their tubs.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Kaorte

I would re think putting the foam board on top of the screen, it will actually absorb more humidity from the air.

You are more likely to get bit when feeding in a separate enclosure. I don't know what kind of breeder would feed in a separate enclosure. If you are breeding snakes that is a lot of mouths to feed. Taking them all out of their tubs, moving them to a different tub, feeding them, and then waiting 30 minutes would make feeding take HOURS.

---

The guy/breeder I got him from was a very small time guy that has a few snakes sells the babies when they breed. Nothing too serious...

I was actually thinking about the foam piece I had on top and decided to wrap it in saran wrap... I was covering a portion of the tank before with it but it got really messy/annoying changing the water/misting re-saran wrapping daily.

I have a vet appointment next week to get Killswitch all checked out. :)

http://img34.imageshack.us/img34/3248/pict0157a.jpg

Here is a great sticky for the screen lid instead of the foam board.