Difference Between Normal S-Neck and About to Strike?

Oh help... I've read that snakes will 'S' their necks when they're about to strike, yet BPs 'S' their necks as part of their normal ball. What's the difference?

We brought our little one home 4 days ago, and it just lashed out at me. It was completely soft, though.

It was perched on top of his hide shaped like a tree, and I was pushing a little more of the ReptiBark inside. So yes, my hand/arm was approaching it, back and forth. I paid no attention to its pose because it often looks like that and I've read that that's normal for BPs, but then whammo! :weirdface

I put my hand in again, keeping further away, and sure enough, it lunged again but couldn't reach that time. :(

I'd read somewhere on these boards that you should pick up your BP after it hisses or strikes so that it doesn't learn to do that to keep you away, so I did. As long as my hand approaches from behind its sight, it's OK.

Help... I'm totally new to this. What do I need to be aware of regarding this?

I don't want to give too precise of a time line, because I'm sure others are better at it, buuuut if you just got your bp 4 days ago, you should give it time to get used to its enclosure and not hold it or even bother it unless completely necessary.

Also, is him being pearched closer to a heat lamp. This might be a sign that the temps are off.

In regards to your actual question about S-ing, generally the "im about to strike" S is a very tight one, where as the normal is a bit less compact. There are always exceptions to the rules, and as you get to know your new bp, you will pick them up.

Stress + sudden movements = ouchies

After getting to know the animal over a longer period of time you'll be able to tell the difference of a 'relaxed s-neck' and a 'aggressive s-neck' just by the body language of the animal.

You really should leave the snake alone for a week (or until it starts feeding regularly for you) and not handle it. It's still accumulating to it's new enclosure and will be nervous.

Also, I suggest trashing that heat lamp and getting a thermostat controlled UTH.

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Originally Posted by blackcrystal22

After getting to know the animal over a longer period of time you'll be able to tell the difference of a 'relaxed s-neck' and a 'aggressive s-neck' just by the body language of the animal.

You really should leave the snake alone for a week (or until it starts feeding regularly for you) and not handle it. It's still accumulating to it's new enclosure and will be nervous.

Also, I suggest trashing that heat lamp and getting a thermostat controlled UTH.

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agreed:gj:

she may NOT have a heat lamp..the post just made it seem so.

As an example, here are two of my snakes in a "normal S" position... they are both SUPER docile and have never attempted to strike, so these are clearly not aggressive moves.

http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...s/DSCF5649.jpg

http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...CF5222-enh.jpg

I don't have any pictures of striking positions to compare, which I should say is a good thing. ;) But they generally tighten up before striking, and sometimes lift their necks vertically - almost like a periscope pose. Believe it or not, you'll learn to read their expressions and body language as well. Oh, and I agree the snake needs time to settle in, and you probably shouldn't bother him until after a feeding (or two). Once he's feeling secure you can start handling him, and I bet he'll become a lap-snake in no time. :) Good luck!

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Originally Posted by HypoPita

In regards to your actual question about S-ing, generally the "im about to strike" S is a very tight one, where as the normal is a bit less compact.

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Thank you! Now that you mention it, that pre-strike 'S' did seem more pulled back. I've grown up with dogs, cats, and rodents, but this is my first time with a snake so I know ZERO. This forum is helping me get up to speed really fast, though!

If this were a new enclosure, then yes, we'd leave BP alone for the first week. However, I got it via Craigslist, and it came with the tank and everything, so it was already in its own home. Alas, it didn't have a UTH, so I stopped off at PetSmart to get one on the way home. Have ordered the ReptiTemp 500R thermostat online so it'll take a few days to arrive, but yesterday we did get the Acu-Rite.

After the Acu-Rite probe was properly positioned under the tree hide, we put BP back into the tank, but instead of going into the hide, it climbed on top of it AND the Acu-Rite (started a separate thread about that), constantly looking to get out. Perhaps it enjoyed its time in the sunshine and wants to go back? I don't know, but rest assured it's in its own home and has a UTH. We're not even using the overhead lamp that came with it.

Snakes aren't as easy to read as mammals, so I'm fumbling along, overly worried about everything. Any input is much appreciated! Many thanks!

One of the biggest differences I think with the S position between ready to strike and just watchful is head position. I've noticed that most of mine when they are just observing their head is relaxed and laying against the substrate. The S curve is also visibly more relaxed. A snake ready to strike has a more tightened, pulled in like a coiled spring posture and the head tends to be raised slightly or fully off the substrate. Eventually you can just feel the vibe of the snake and know it's about to have a go at you but that comes with time and getting to know your particular snake. Use your instincts more then anything.

Remember too that just because this snake came with it's own home doesn't mean it's not totally stressed out. It may not have been well cared for in it's previous home and even if it was your home smells completely differently than it's own home. Your home has different rhythms, different vibrations, different temperature signatures and so forth. For an animal as finely tuned as a snake, an animal that exists in a world of sensory input far beyond what we can see or hear - it's a huge change. If your snake has lived it's whole life knowing one environment, this change can cause it to take months to settle in and that's to be expected so be very patient.

Dogs adjust to us, they want to be in our pack, they want a dominant leader. Cats adjust to us as well to some degree because they are creatures that want feeding, touching and interaction (on their terms). Snakes do not adjust to us, we adjust to them - that's the biggest difference in keeping snakes versus keeping cats and dogs.

As far as handling after a strike, it's a completely unique judgement call. It depends on the snake, why it struck, what the circumstances around the strike were, what you did that may have triggered it, if it is occurring regularily or just a random jab at you, the stage of life of the snake and so on. In other words there is no cut in stone, this will always work advice here because it's a fairly complex set of triggers and circumstances that surround a strike and how you should react to one. For now, as this is a new snake, just go on about your business, ignore the strike and try to not trigger anymore of them by interacting much with this snake while it is so highly stressed. Enjoy observing it quietly, let it gradually get to know your smell and the routines of it's new home, let it pick up your heat and scent signatures slowly from things like changing it's water dish. I'm sure it will go fine for both of you given time and patience.

Generally, a snake with an s neck who is about to strike will be following your movements with its head. But most of the time, as you get to know your snake, you can just tell when it is about to striike

It is not hard to know the difference. Watch the snake's breathing.
-Steven

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Originally Posted by frankykeno

Remember too that just because this snake came with it's own home doesn't mean it's not totally stressed out. It may not have been well cared for in it's previous home and even if it was your home smells completely differently than it's own home. Your home has different rhythms, different vibrations, different temperature signatures and so forth. For an animal as finely tuned as a snake, an animal that exists in a world of sensory input far beyond what we can see or hear - it's a huge change.

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:O:O:O Oh no, I had no idea!

Well, shoot, the Acu-Rite is showing 98 degrees in its hide. Should we move it to increase the amount of bark in that spot, or leave it alone? Until we get the thermostat we ordered, it seems that increasing the amount of bark to keep more distance from the UTH is all we can do for the time being. That's what we did yesterday when Acu-Rite showed it to be only 80, otherwise we wouldn't have touched BP. Oh dear...

Not to worry. It's not like these snakes never know stress in a wild situation. Just do what needs done to stablize the temps, leave the snake be to adjust, give it a week after you've messed about with it's home a lot and then offer it some dinner. While we strive to do our best for these animals it is important to realize they are quite capable of surviving our fiddling about with them. Just find your balance between being a concerned new keeper versus getting yourself too overloaded and stressed out with worry. You and that snake will get through this - many have - many more will. Gawd knows I'm about as anal and OCD about details as one can get and I survived my first days as a snake keeper. If I can, anyone can LOL

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Originally Posted by Patricia

:O:O:O Oh no, I had no idea!

Well, shoot, the Acu-Rite is showing 98 degrees in its hide. Should we move it to increase the amount of bark in that spot, or leave it alone? Until we get the thermostat we ordered, it seems that increasing the amount of bark to keep more distance from the UTH is all we can do for the time being. That's what we did yesterday when Acu-Rite showed it to be only 80, otherwise we wouldn't have touched BP. Oh dear...

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98 is too hot. While you are waiting for you t-stat to arrive you can get a lamp dimmer from Lowes or Home Depot to control the heat. You can add more substrate but if your snakes moves it out of the way and ends up on the glass right on top of the heater it could get burned. I'm guessing the reason your snake hangs out on top of it's tree hide is the previous owner used the lamp instead of a UTH so it is used to getting it's heat that way. I'm sure once you get a couple of snug hides in there he will adjust and be alot more relaxed...


Rob

If the snake turns its head to follow your every move rapidly, that's a warning sign.
I've also noticed that they get very tense, and you can see the muscles bunch up in their neck behind their jaw as if they're clenching it. <lol>

Here's a sticky on how to turn a lamp dimmer into a working rheostat to control your UTH. You can find these at any major home supply store for about $10.00

http://www.ball-pythons.net/forums/s...=855662#855662

well just watch to see how attentive they are. If they are on you like a heat seeking missile then they are probably about to strike. Its not as simple as that of course but thats a decent way to tell. I have some that strike without any warning, and other that will hiss at you for an hour before finally giving that final "im fed up with you" strike.

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Originally Posted by Vypyrz

98 is too hot. While you are waiting for you t-stat to arrive you can get a lamp dimmer from Lowes or Home Depot to control the heat. You can add more substrate but if your snakes moves it out of the way and ends up on the glass right on top of the heater it could get burned. I'm guessing the reason your snake hangs out on top of it's tree hide is the previous owner used the lamp instead of a UTH so it is used to getting it's heat that way. I'm sure once you get a couple of snug hides in there he will adjust and be alot more relaxed...


Rob

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Its probably in the tree because its the only place it can cool off.

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Originally Posted by frankykeno

Just find your balance between being a concerned new keeper versus getting yourself too overloaded and stressed out with worry. You and that snake will get through this - many have - many more will. Gawd knows I'm about as anal and OCD about details as one can get and I survived my first days as a snake keeper. If I can, anyone can LOL

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Thanks, I guess I really needed to hear that. I've been stressing over our newest addition and probably driving it crazy in the process. It's so different from every other critter I've had to just leave it totally alone, but it's probably breathing a sigh of relief now!

Thanks also for the strike descriptions posted here. Everything posted, I saw. Not the first time around -- was being too careless/trusting and wasn't even watching BP when I was tapped (as soft as a cotton ball... maybe it's younger than 6 months?) -- but after that I saw it do everything mentioned here.

BTW, that lamp dimmer sticky is so clearly explained, thanks! :gj: