Tank Screen Top Foil Treatment Tutorial

Ok, in response to requests I am posting my Screen Foil Treatment step-by-step picture tutorial here in the caging forum. :) I hope it proves useful.

SCREEN TOP TREATMENT PROCESS

Step 1 - Supplies. Screen top, aluminum foil, Duct Tape, box cutter or Xacto knife, and clear vinyl (optional. Wouldn't show up in pictures)
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...s/Supplies.jpg

Step 2 - Tear 3 layers of foil, sized basically to your screen. (had to use two sets of three layers for this square top) Lay them shiny side down.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...cts/Foilon.jpg

Step 3 - Tape down the edges with Duct tape.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x.../Tapeedges.jpg

Step 4 - Continue with strips of tape to cover the top completely.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...ts/Covered.jpg

Step 5 - Cut the ventilation opening on one end of the top with the box cutter or Xacto knife. Be VERY careful not to cut into the screen! The opening should cover about 1/4 of the top - typically 5-6" square.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...Cutopening.jpg

Step 6 - Tape the edges of the opening to secure the foil. (Indentations mark the edges of the hole)
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x.../Holeedges.jpg

Step 7 - (Optional) Cut the window opening near the center of the top. This lets light in without sacrificing humidity.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x.../Cutwindow.jpg

Step 8 - Use the cutout piece of foil/tape from the window as a template to cut vinyl, adding 1/2-1" extra to edges.
(NOT SHOWN - I pre-cut my windows, and vinyl doesn't show up in pictures.)

Step 9 - Lay the vinyl UNDER the foil inside the opening (against the screen) relatively centered.
(NOT SHOWN - camera wouldn't pick up the plastic)

Step 10 - Tape the edges of the window, similar to taping the ventilation opening edges.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...indowedges.jpg

The Finished product! This screen top was to an 18x18 ExoTerra tank.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...s/Finished.jpg

To show what a more usual screen top looks like treated, here is my 20gal Long locking top:
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...kscreentop.jpg

And my 10g locking top for contrast. The window of this one was larger to let in more light in a dark room:
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x...gscreentop.jpg


This is the most effective screen top treatment for regulating humidity in glass tanks! Second would be plexiglass, but that can be pricey. :)

Wonderful post Adriana! Sticky worthy for sure! :gj:

Agreed and stuck. :gj:


dr del

I am so going to do this

Thank you... that means a lot to me. :) It's my ambition in life to help people with the care of exotic pets, especially reptiles.

I hope this tutorial will help many owners, new and old, to be that much closer to a stable and well-working tank enclosure.

Probably a dumb question but is duct tape safe to use with a 50watt infrared heat lamp?

That's why I put in the vinyl window. My lamps hang above that.

The tape will wrinkle over time with the heat, but it won't catch fire or anything as long as you're not putting the lamp right on it. :) Besides, lamps should only be used as supplemental heat for ball pythons as it is. RHPs and UTHs are the preferred heating methods.

Does anyone know which side to put the vent hole on? I'm figuring the hot side since I want to keep in as much warm air on the cool side to maintain ambient temps.

Wouldn't you also be able to just use a bigger piece of vinyl and clear tape (rather than duct tape) to make it look more attractive, or does the foil serve some specific purpose?

The foil serves the purpose of reflecting the heat back down into the tank. :) Also, unless it was clear duct tape I can't think of any clear tape that would hold up and stay stuck.

And typically, the vent opening is over the hot side. :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Argentra

The foil serves the purpose of reflecting the heat back down into the tank. :) Also, unless it was clear duct tape I can't think of any clear tape that would hold up and stay stuck.

And typically, the vent opening is over the hot side. :)

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going to do this tomorrow! thank you!!

Thanks for posting this. I did exactly this last night after failing to get my humidity up in my glass/mesh top aquarium. Works like a charm. :partyon:

I just did this and it works brilliantly, thanks! I did one thing different though; I used that foil duct tape around the lamps (I have to use a lamp to keep up ambient temps) instead of the regular duct tape. It handles heat much better :)

I'm glad this is helping so many folks. :) :gj:

hi would it be be okay to use black electrical tape instead of duct tape and also i have to use a heat lamp to keepo temps up so if i just cut a hole the size of the heat lamp would that be okay or would i burn the house down ha

thanks

Believe it or not, electrical tape doesn't hold as well as the duct tape. :) You could try it, but be prepared to replace the tape.

Also, you could just set the lamp over the 'air hole' already there. That way you're not cutting more holes (which messes with humidity and temps). Having the lamp hover a few inches over the opening allows for air and heat together.

Just curious, why do you need a heat lamp to keep temps up?

Well i get the tape for free tats why i wanted to use it ha but i like tat idea of it hovering the lamp i think ill try tat.

Oh and to answer your question i live in ireland and its very cold here this time of year so if i dont have the lamp the temps do be around the 60-70 mark but i only use a 40w heat lamp and that brings the temps up to around 80-85

thanks

WOW! this is so awesome! I love these forums. So many helpful people.:banana: I have a nice little project ahead of me tonight now ;)

I just read this yesterday and decided to improvise a tad.

Instead of regular aluminum foil, I had a roll of aluminum foil tape left over from my snake rack. I covered the top except for where the light is and a little area for ventalization. All I have to say is WOW. I have tried putting damp towels over the top, daily misting, larger water bowls, etc.... and nothing really worked. I have always been completely against glass aquariums but this completely changed my thoughts. Thank you!

Hi,

Just to double check - you did make sure that the top isn't sticky from underneath ( where the snake is ) didn't you? :worry:

That foil tape is verrrrry sticky stuff. :(


dr del

Exactly what I was about to ask...thanks Del. :D

Yes, using the foil tape can be faster, but you would have to place it sticky side UP so the reflective part is facing down into the cage to reflect the heat (Also, as said, to make sure the snake can't come in contact with the VERY sticky underside of the tape). Since the sticky has to face up, you need to cover it with foil or duct tape anyway...so why not just use foil and duct? :D

Oh, and yes, snakes CAN get their tongues into those tiny holes in screen tops. I've seen mine do it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dr del

Hi,

Just to double check - you did make sure that the top isn't sticky from underneath ( where the snake is ) didn't you? :worry:

That foil tape is verrrrry sticky stuff. :(


dr del

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The screen is fairly thick and holes are tight together. Thanks for the good look though:gj:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Argentra

Exactly what I was about to ask...thanks Del. :D

Yes, using the foil tape can be faster, but you would have to place it sticky side UP so the reflective part is facing down into the cage to reflect the heat (Also, as said, to make sure the snake can't come in contact with the VERY sticky underside of the tape). Since the sticky has to face up, you need to cover it with foil or duct tape anyway...so why not just use foil and duct? :D

Oh, and yes, snakes CAN get their tongues into those tiny holes in screen tops. I've seen mine do it.

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If you look at the pics again, you will see that the duct tape is on the screen around each of the vents. So either way you go, there is going to be tape stuck to the top. Appreciate the heads up though:)

do you think this would be ok with a 100w zoo med powersun mercury vapor heat lamp in 20 gal tank? dont wanna cook him in a tin foil oven...

Hi,

All heat sources are supposed to be regulated by a thermostat that would stop it getting to dangerous temps.

I might be concerned that the screen might get too hot if that was running though so would double check that before putting the animal in the enclosure.


dr del

do you mean the heat lamp has a built in thermostat? or i need to set one up?

Hi,

You need to set one up - unregulated heat sources are a really bad idea all round.

If that bulb gives off visible light however you would be best opting for a proportional thermostat as the on/off type not only shorten the life of the bulb considerably the light going on and off will drive you nuts.


dr del

i might have to get an off of one even though it puts out visible light. the zoo med website says the bulb needs specific line voltage so a rheostat isnt recomended...

Hi,

To be honest at that point I'd replace the bulb.

Have you insulated the tank to see if you could get away with only using a small red bulb on a rheostat or even just the UTH on its own?


dr del

How far would this treatment go towards raising the ambient temps in the enclosure (tub or tank)? Any rough ideas?

First off, many many thanks to Dr Del for answering questions. :) RL has me running in circles right now, so I'm not on as often as I'd like to be.

Second, as far as ambient temps go this treatment is meant to stabilize the temps. Although it can help to raise ambient a bit since the heat stays inside the tank instead of dissipating out, it probably won't take it up more than a few degrees from the outside room temp. The best way to give a little boost to ambient temps is with a low watt lamp.

As for larger heat bulbs, I don't recommend them for snakes anyway. The best heat for these guys comes from UTH or RHP. But, if you must use these bulbs, they should always be on a thermostat to make sure they don't get TOO hot. They should also never be closer to the top of the screen than 8 inches. :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by hig

How far would this treatment go towards raising the ambient temps in the enclosure (tub or tank)? Any rough ideas?

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My setup

55gallon aquarium. 4Lx2Hx1D. I have that decortive landscape wallpaper around the aqarium for the bottom 16 inches.

I was using 2 UTH and got the ground temps where they needed to be, ambient air temp was around 68.

I added vinyl to the lid and a 100watt CHE and raised ambient temps to 75

I added aluminum foil on the upper sides and around the upper back (about 8 inches) and I added an old yogo mat on top of that for extra insulation

On the lid I have vinyl all the way across except for a hole for the CHE and then I added aluminum foil to the cool side of the lid with the yogo mat tapped down on top of it.

My ambient temps avg:
Cool side-77
Middle- 80
Warn side- 82

I also made a fogger and have it set with a timer to come on as often as I can ( every 105 minutes) and I have it come on for three minutes each time. All this work helped my temps, but the warmer I was able to get the aquarium the harder it became to keep the humidity up.

My humidity will go up to 75% after three minutes of fogging and in 30 minutes its back down to 30%.

So to answer your question this does great for temp, but if you have a CHE, at least for me, it has not helped that much.

I control my temps and humidity with:
5- Digital thermostats, 3 of them control the temps (cool UTH, warm UTH, CHE)
1- Hygrometer in the middle of the aquarium about 6" off the ground
1- plug in timer to turn the fogger on and off

i used the foil bubble wrap exceeded my hopes

Would this be ok to do with a Leo? and how about if you were to cut a hole that a lil biggewr then the size of the lamp then would you be able to put the lamp right one the screen without it being a fire hazard?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Herp4life11

Would this be ok to do with a Leo? and how about if you were to cut a hole that a lil biggewr then the size of the lamp then would you be able to put the lamp right one the screen without it being a fire hazard?

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I used this method on my Leo cages as well and it worked fine. :) And yes, I cut the hole a bit larger than the lamp since Leos bask.
However, I would not ever recommend putting the lamp right on the screen. Not only can it heat up the screen a lot, and be a potential fire hazard with the non-metal screens, but if you need the lamp that close to get the heat you need...you need a higher watt bulb. :D

Can I also use glass to cover part of the screen top?

This is awesome thanks so much for posting and sticky-ing this post i used your technique on my 50 gal and it completely evened out my temp and humidity. just one thing though, i put a piece of cardboard down were i was cutting out the vents before i set everything down so i wouldnt cut the screen :)

This was some great information i am having a little problem however i followed the directions and however did not exactly make a 5 to 6 in hole for the humidity because i only have a 10 gallon tank but my problem is i can not get the humidity past 43 to 50. it is staying mainy around 45 any idea on how to get it up from there im using reptile carpet until i can hold my male pastel since he is new and wont be able to switch it out to aspen till approx sunday. could this be part of the reason the humidity is down because it is absorbing it into the reptile carpet? any thoughts or suggestions would be great im switching to aspen as of sunday btw if that is a possible fix for my problem.

thanks a lot i just finish doing it just did a little things diffrent but i hope this helps with humidity and heat thanks soo much mate

Thanks for this!! It really helped raise the humidity in my tank :)

Like so many others, I had to come post a thank you for this set-up. Well written and informative. I'm sure my snake would also say, Thank you :)

This is probably a dumb question, but where can I find the vinyl? I would think somewhere like Home Depot, but I can't find it on there site. What exactly would it be called?

I don't know how i never saw this thread before!
I've been keeping moist towels on my tank forever now. Its such a pain, keeping those things moist.

I did this and its working great :)
Thank you!!!:D

I took the advice of this thread and insulated the lid of my tank to match the pirate theme of my classroom:

http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...92498009_n.jpg

Wow, I wonder how I never saw the 'newer' comments in this thread. :) Email notifications not working as well anymore...

Well, to those who gave thanks, you are most welcome! And I love that pirate lid Talae!

It may be a bit late for an answer, but the vinyl I used for the 'windows' is clear 'tablecloth' vinyl. I got it at WalMart (when they still had fabric sections), but I'm sure it could be found at most fabric and craft stores. It's sold by the yard in varying thicknesses. I use it now to wrap the backs of my homemade cages to keep the backgrounds 'water proof'. :D

Glad to see my treatment is still helping people! :banana:

Hi there! Quick question, if you don't mind. I'm in the process of putting together a 20 long with a clear acrylic top (on top of screen), held in place with foil heating and air conditioning tape. Is it ok for the acrylic aka plexiglass to be on top of the screen? Also, how much of a gap would you recommend leaving open for air circulation? We keep our home slightly cool, but comfortable. 68-ish or so. Thank you for your time! :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JeRMz

Hi there! Quick question, if you don't mind. I'm in the process of putting together a 20 long with a clear acrylic top (on top of screen), held in place with foil heating and air conditioning tape. Is it ok for the acrylic aka plexiglass to be on top of the screen? Also, how much of a gap would you recommend leaving open for air circulation? We keep our home slightly cool, but comfortable. 68-ish or so. Thank you for your time! :)

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Hmm, are you talking about the acrylic covering the ENTIRE screen top? That's what it sounds like. You can do this, but you'll want to drill holes at one end if not both for air circulation. If you leave a gap between the acrylic and the screen top, you might as well not have it up there at all. The point is to cover the screen entirely to keep heat and humidity inside the tank, while leaving a small section for ventilation.
My recommendation with acrylic would be to set it right on the lid with a set of small holes drilled on one side to replace the open area in the foil treatment. (Remember when drilling into acrylic to sandwich it between wood pieces to avoid splits and cracks).

But, since BPs seem more comfortable with a solid 'roof', I would recommend the foil or other solid treatment instead. Just my two cents. :)

Hi, thanks for responding! I actually meant to say, lay the acrylic sheet on top of the screen (no gap in between screen and acrylic), and leave maybe an inch or three of bare screen over the hot (?) side for ventilation. Small gap of bare screen instead of drilled holes. For example, the wire screen is 27" x 9" and I was thinking a sheet of acrylic cut to 24-26" x 9". I'm hoping a uth will keep all temps/humidity where they need to be without really needing a heat lamp. I'm not opposed to using one of my heat lamps in the winter, tho. Again, thanks for your time & feedback! :)

Oops, forgot to mention I will also be insulating the sides, back, and bottom of tank (bare glass next to the uth, that is.) with black foam sheeting.

:) In that case, sounds good. I would say give it a try and see if it has the desired results.
Good luck!