feeding: in or out

My wife and I will be picking up our first BP this weekend! I've been able to get most of my questions answered by reading and talking to folks at different shops but I find myself a bit confused on a point or two that I feel should be addressed before we bring him home.

We've been told that we should not feed our BP in his regular enclosure as this imprints my hands coming into the cage with a trigger for food source... BUT... I've read that moving a python to a special feeding enclosure could cause him not to want to feed. So, what's the consensus? Once I've gotten him to eat (assuming a separate feeding enclosure) how long should I leave him alone til I put him back into his regular home?

Great site, BTW. Very informative.

I feed all of mine in their enclosures. I feel that removing them from their enclosures to feed will increase stress, and the likelihood of being bitten.

Hope this helps.

Feed in the enclosure, saves on time, less hassle, and the snake feels more secure and therefore more likely to eat.

Use a pair of tongs... that way your hand isn't going into the enclosure so there is nothing to worry about.

Be sure that feeding time isn't the only time you open the tank, you need to occasionally handle, do cage maintenance, ect. This way the snake doesn't associate opening the tank with getting food.

Wash your hands really well after touching rodents so you don't smell like food.

And the last issue people have with feeding in the enclosure is the danger of swallowing substrate. Occasionally a bp will strike wrong and get substrate in it's mouth. A small piece isn't going to hurt him but be on hand with tongs to pull any large pieces out of his mouth. If you see pieces getting stuck to the food you should try to pull these off to. It's a low chance of it hurting him but if you see it then try to fix it.

Hope the helps.

Yeah just feed in the enclosure. You shouldn't be waving your hand around in the snake cage during feeding time anyway. If you are using F/t then use tongs. You can even use tongs with live by grabbing at the scruff of the neck. Might be a little harder to hold on to though.

I feed in seperate enclosure, probably not a big deal with ball pythons becoming cage agressive but i do it anyways. I use a shoe box and close it so she feels completely secure. With a new ball python it can be a little of an issue, when i first got her she was a little picky but now no problems. I think you are more likely to be bitten by cage feeding, she might mistake you reaching in to pick her up as feeding time. While if you put her in a special enclosure (Which will eventually smell of mouse or rat) she will know that it is feeding time.

If you use a seperate enclosure, you can put him back in his normal enclosure once hes completely ate the mouse, he will most likely be moving around, just be gentle and set him back in his enclosure next to his hide.

I feed in the enclosure too. I make sure to handle my snake every day, except feeding day and two days after that. They can usually learn the routine you put them on, as long as it is consistant. Mine knows when it is feeding day. She's waiting in the middle of the aquarium. lol. I can still get her out, even on feeding day. Just make sure you don't smell like mouse or rat when you do. lol. that might confuse them a little.

That reminds me if you do put her in a container or shoe box to feed her, wash your hands before you try and move her back you dont want her to smell you fingers thinking its time for another mouse.

I dont keep my snake on a regular feeding schedule, I feed her approximately once a week, but its not always the same day or same time period between feeds. So, she is never expecting feeding so she never acts like she wants to eat my hand lol.

I also use long forceps to dangle the rat in the tank. I do not touch the rats at all with my hands unless I have disposable rubber gloves on. Prevention is paramount when it comes to keep from being mistaken for food. Plus, with the forceps I can actually tease my pets a bit more without fear of being struck.
The key is to not get careless and in a hurry when feeding your snake. When you do, that's when you'll slip up and "BANG!!!!" you'll get bit real quick.

Its funny you say that grim, I hold the mouse by the tail and dangle it in front of her, but forceps are safer, young ball pythons are not know for their good aim and its possible they could get you instead. I believe I read a post by someone saying their ball python actually wrapped around his hand when it missed the mouse, and it was painful, that was when they were using forceps. So, just be aware when feeding your snake and watch its body language, and dont worry a baby ball python bite wont hurt.

it doesn't take much for a python's squeezing to break and burst blood vessels when it starts constricting. The resulting bruising and pain can make quite and impression, that's for sure. Another good resason to have a bottle of alcohol nearby at all times. The aroma of the alcohol will make the snake release it's grip 99% of the time.

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Originally Posted by grim reaper in NY

it doesn't take much for a python's squeezing to break and burst blood vessels when it starts constricting. The resulting bruising and pain can make quite and impression, that's for sure. Another good resason to have a bottle of alcohol nearby at all times. The aroma of the alcohol will make the snake release it's grip 99% of the time.

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Good thing I got a fridge full of beer on stand by, lol.

Isopropyl alcohol, my friend! LOL...

Wow, you guys are great. I posted this, popped over to MartialTalk for just a little while and come back to two pages of great information. I prefer the idea of feeding inside the normal enclosure with the precautions that you've all listed. As I understand it BPs can be picky eaters at times and susceptible to stress at all times so moving to another box to feed just seems like unnecessary stress. We're spending the week getting the enclosure set up and will be bringing him home this weekend. He's just finished a shed and the folks that have him want to feed him one last time before the move so that he'll have a full belly while getting used to his new home.

So, to summarize:
1:no need to move for feeding
2:use tongs to offer food
3:use gloves or wash hands well when/after handling food source
4:the more regular the feeding schedule the better
5:handle your snake often

Smart move to feed him before the move. I just fed mine for the 1st time since their relocation last night. Sheba took her rat and went to town. Simba skipped her feed and Merlin, my red tail boa has decided to just hug his rat and not eat it. Kinda mixed results you'd say. LOL

Have fun with your new ball python and you should always wash your hands after handling you snake, if you didnt already know that.

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Originally Posted by grim reaper in NY

Smart move to feed him before the move. I just fed mine for the 1st time since their relocation last night. Sheba took her rat and went to town. Simba skipped her feed and Merlin, my red tail boa has decided to just hug his rat and not eat it. Kinda mixed results you'd say. LOL

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And people say snakes aren't cuddlers. ;)

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Originally Posted by LawfulChaos

Have fun with your new ball python and you should always wash your hands after handling you snake, if you didnt already know that.

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I just assumed that would be something you'd do for regular hygiene. Is there a special reason you'll want to do that?

Its a precaution to prevent any possibility of your snake transmitting salmonella to you.

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Originally Posted by The Letch

And people say snakes aren't cuddlers. ;)

I just assumed that would be something you'd do for regular hygiene. Is there a special reason you'll want to do that?

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They do occasionally crawl through their poo. It's sanitary. Nobody likes salmonella (i have no idea how to spell that one. lol)

I also feed in the enclosure. One thing I do is pretty much let my ball tell me he's hungry. I feed F/T (frozen/thawed) mice so I actually do the thawing on top of his enclosure.

If he is hungry he'll show it (coming out of his hide or just sticking his head out of his hide with tongue going crazy). Once he shows this I place the mouse in a ziplock bag and soak in the hottest water my tap produces then take the mouse out and dry it. The drying helps a LOT in preventing bedding getting stuck on the mouse and eventually in the snake's mouth.

I then feed with tongs. That's just the way I do it, you'll adjust according to how your snake acts in time.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by The Letch

My wife and I will be picking up our first BP this weekend! I've been able to get most of my questions answered by reading and talking to folks at different shops but I find myself a bit confused on a point or two that I feel should be addressed before we bring him home.

We've been told that we should not feed our BP in his regular enclosure as this imprints my hands coming into the cage with a trigger for food source... BUT... I've read that moving a python to a special feeding enclosure could cause him not to want to feed. So, what's the consensus? Once I've gotten him to eat (assuming a separate feeding enclosure) how long should I leave him alone til I put him back into his regular home?

Great site, BTW. Very informative.

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They do not have the intelligence to correspond 'hand' - 'food'. The only thing that means there is food, is the scent and appearance of prey.

Your hand does not look and should not smell like their prey. If they are going to bite you, it is either upset or scared, not trying to bite you for food.

I do not suggest feeding outside the enclosure. It heightens the risk of being bitten as well as having problems with regurgitation and stress from the situation.
Snakes would much rather be left alone in the dark to eat then be watched with bright lights shining.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by The Letch

Wow, you guys are great. I posted this, popped over to MartialTalk for just a little while and come back to two pages of great information. I prefer the idea of feeding inside the normal enclosure with the precautions that you've all listed. As I understand it BPs can be picky eaters at times and susceptible to stress at all times so moving to another box to feed just seems like unnecessary stress. We're spending the week getting the enclosure set up and will be bringing him home this weekend. He's just finished a shed and the folks that have him want to feed him one last time before the move so that he'll have a full belly while getting used to his new home.

So, to summarize:
1:no need to move for feeding
2:use tongs to offer food
3:use gloves or wash hands well when/after handling food source
4:the more regular the feeding schedule the better
5:handle your snake often

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Yep we're quick to respond here. And the in or out debate is a well worn one. :P

Sounds like you got it down.

Mostly bps are pretty laid back customers so just remember not to startle yours or get in the way of a strike (bps can miss sometimes hence the tongs) and you should be able to avoid any bites. Making sure the prey, especially it's head, is nice and warn can help a bp strike more accurately, remember they can smell food but they hunt with heat sensors.

If this is your first bp, I'm gonna tell you now they can be picky sometimes. I usually wait to feed mine late at night when he's awake and leave the rat nearby so that he knows the foods coming before I give it too him. If you have trouble getting yours to feed you may want to try pre-scenting this way and waiting for evening. It's like the difference between someone shoving a pancake in your face while your still asleep and someone waiting till you've been drawn to the kitchen by the coffee smell to give you breakfast.