Watering System Resevoirs

Just curious how you all get your reservoirs elevated enough off the top tub of the rack for it to work for the whole rack. We are currently using a 6 tier cement tub rack, and will probably be adding a birthing rack within the next year or so. Pics are great, but feel free to try and just explain your system too.

Thanks,
Austin

Mine is at the top right.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...s/100_2747.jpg

I assume that works out okay for you? I have heard from most sources that the reservoir needs to be at least 6 inches above the highest tub to get enough flow from just gravity.

Also, I am getting tired of bottles, so I may hurry up my plans for a reservoir system on our current 6 cement tub rack. What size reservoir would you all reccomend? Ideas on a max size, minimum size, or a good balance between not having to refill it all the time and not risking massive floods would be awesome.

Thanks,
Austin

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Originally Posted by Clear

Mine is at the top right.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...s/100_2747.jpg

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That's the same tub we use! :)

Ours is sitting on a board over the top of the whole rack, but it's 3 separate racks, so 3 separate tubs. We left enough room from the top tub to the board so that I can get my food scoop in there to fill up their food.

Kind of like he has in the rack on the far left? Just trying to imagine what it looks like.

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Originally Posted by ThyTempest

Kind of like he has in the rack on the far left? Just trying to imagine what it looks like.

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This is a pretty old picture, we dont use that size or style tub anymore, but it shows the shelf I'm talking about, except now it's about 5 inches above so I can get the food in there easily.

We now use a 27 qt sterilite tub style that you can see in Clears pics.
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i2...y/IMG_3039.jpg

My reservoirs lay on some 2X2 on the top of each racks.

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p...rs/RatRoom.jpg

The rack in the back only has valves on the first 3 rows, the last 3 being for ASF (still not sure on putting valves or not for them)

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Originally Posted by Deborah

The rack in the back only has valves on the first 3 rows, the last 3 being for ASF (still not sure on putting valves or not for them)

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Yea, I am never sure if it's a good idea or not, since the ASF's start to drink even before their eyes are open, I wouldnt think they would know that the water is above them.

i use a tubs also but if you have alot of rats in there you tend to have to fill more. when i had my asfs they did fine

I have no problems with my setup. I fill that tank up ever 3-4 days depending on how many rats i currently have in the breeding station. I now have 2 racks just like the one on the right setup the same.

I am heavily researching all the parts and such for a watering system now. Reptile basics has some nice stuff, but the prices seem a bit high. Did you all use parts from RBI or similar website to connect the tubing to the reservoir, a drain/bleed valve, etc?

Also, in some diagrams, I see the line continuing from the last tub at the bottom back up to the top...this doesnt make much sense to me, why is it required? In others, I don't see it...confusion.

I was thinking of something like a paint bucket for a reservoir, but some people have said that things with flat sides are easier to deal with attaching the parts to, what do you all suggest? I think I am going to use something fairly big, up to 5 gallons or so, and just not fill it all the way right off the bat.

Also, is there anywhere else to get the right flex tubing, T and L barbs, clamps, drinking valves, etc cheaper than RBI? I have not been able to find anywhere else that carries that type of drinking valve, and prices for the clamps, standoffs, etc are pretty similar, but I have not checked local prices at hardware stores etc.

Thanks,
Austin

We order from RBI. I think edstrom carries that stuff too.

I'm not sure what line you are talking about that "the line continuing from the last tub at the bottom back up to the top".
We leave a few inches on the bottom and put on a drain valve there, for when I need to clean the water bucket or drain it for any reason.

Look at the edstrom guide on RBI, in his S design, there is line going from the bottom back to the top.

Also, what are your thoughts on not using an S system. We are using a 6 cement tub rack, so only 1 column of tubs, an S system seems pretty wasteful. I am thinking of running the line straight down one of the sides with T fittings at each level to lead either directly to the valve, or to an L fitting in the middle of the rack, leading to the valve. I am planning on putting a drain valve on the end also.

So, before I ask any more questions, do you think this non-S design will work, or is an S system really the way to go.

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I was thinking of something like a paint bucket for a reservoir, but some people have said that things with flat sides are easier to deal with attaching the parts to, what do you all suggest?

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I use a 5 gallon paint bucket (purchased from walmart) and this part and have no problem at all http://www.agselect.com/ED/showdetl....D=836&CATID=12

Ok, I understand. For one column, I dont think it's necessary. If it were more than 3 or 4, I would say it would be beneficial.

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Originally Posted by ThyTempest

So, before I ask any more questions, do you think this non-S design will work, or is an S system really the way to go.

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I do not have a S design not even for the birthing rack that is 5 tubs wide by 6 tub high and it is working just fine :gj:

Deb, do you use 5/16" tubing? Everywhere else I have seen, including RBI, uses 3/16". Do you recommend the larger diameter, or was it just chance that yours was different?

Now that I think I have my design mostly set, I have to decide whether or not L fittings will be required, unnecessary or neither, but very helpful.

Basically, the line down the side of the rack would have a T fitting at each level, and the extra barb would lead to either...more tubing leading to an L fitting in the middle/front of the tub, which would connect more tubing to the valve. I think this may work better, but option two is to have the T fitting at the edges lead directly to the drinking valve. This would put the valve closer to the corner of the tub, but that is usually where the bottles are anyway, so I don't think it is going to make much difference, so long as it doesnt kink/get chewed on w/e. I just don't know how much flex I can wiggle in without needing the L barbs to keep everything clean and straight. Any thoughts?

If that doesnt make sense, let me know and I can draw it on paint really quick.

I went and check because I was not sure anymore everything I use is 3/16

For each level this is what I use (the rack being 5 tubs wide by 6 tubs high)

T T T T T T L
T T T T T T L
T T T T T T L
T T T T T T L
T T T T T T L
L T T T T T L

If you do a 1 column rack you would need

T L
T L
T L
T L
T L
L L

Aside from the tubbing, tank connector, valves and connectors you will also need those http://www.agselect.com/ED/showdetl....D=361&CATID=12 and those http://www.agselect.com/ED/showdetl....D=181&CATID=12

3 Tees per level
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s...63/tiff025.jpg
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s...63/tiff029.jpg

No problems with a round bucket. Lid on loose. The tank connector has a ball valve and a fine mesh screen.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ThyTempest

I am heavily researching all the parts and such for a watering system now. Reptile basics has some nice stuff, but the prices seem a bit high. Did you all use parts from RBI or similar website to connect the tubing to the reservoir, a drain/bleed valve, etc?

Also, in some diagrams, I see the line continuing from the last tub at the bottom back up to the top...this doesnt make much sense to me, why is it required? In others, I don't see it...confusion.

I was thinking of something like a paint bucket for a reservoir, but some people have said that things with flat sides are easier to deal with attaching the parts to, what do you all suggest? I think I am going to use something fairly big, up to 5 gallons or so, and just not fill it all the way right off the bat.

Also, is there anywhere else to get the right flex tubing, T and L barbs, clamps, drinking valves, etc cheaper than RBI? I have not been able to find anywhere else that carries that type of drinking valve, and prices for the clamps, standoffs, etc are pretty similar, but I have not checked local prices at hardware stores etc.

Thanks,
Austin

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http://www.klubertanz.com/ they have the cheapest prices ive found so far

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Deborah

I went and check because I was not sure anymore everything I use is 3/16

For each level this is what I use (the rack being 5 tubs wide by 6 tubs high)

T T T T T T L
T T T T T T L
T T T T T T L
T T T T T T L
T T T T T T L
L T T T T T L

If you do a 1 column rack you would need

T L
T L
T L
T L
T L
L L

Aside from the tubbing, tank connector, valves and connectors you will also need those http://www.agselect.com/ED/showdetl....D=361&CATID=12 and those http://www.agselect.com/ED/showdetl....D=181&CATID=12

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6 T fittings and an L per level for a 5 wide rack? I don't understand that one, maybe a pic?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ThyTempest

6 T fittings and an L per level for a 5 wide rack? I don't understand that one, maybe a pic?

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http://www.arbreptiles.com/cages/rat_rack/ratrack.shtml towards the bottom

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ThyTempest

6 T fittings and an L per level for a 5 wide rack? I don't understand that one, maybe a pic?

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I can't back out enough to take a pick of the whole rack.

The first column is what is on the side of the rack alimenting each row, than you have 4 T and one L on each row to aliment each tub.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ThyTempest

6 T fittings and an L per level for a 5 wide rack? I don't understand that one, maybe a pic?

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For our one column, we have just the T fitting.... So I guess I'm confused too.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by nixer

http://www.arbreptiles.com/cages/rat_rack/ratrack.shtml towards the bottom

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This design uses no L fittings.

Ok here is what it looks like on the rack that has watering system on 3 rows (2 tubs wide 3 tubs hight) – Again first column is what is alimenting each row the other connectors are for each tubs on the row.
T T L
T T L
L T L
In red the T in blue the L


http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p...WaterLines.jpg

For a column rack you can use onlythe T's however I like to put my valves in the middle and on the front, having the lines tied on the wood not getting in the way as shown in the previous pic.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Deborah

Ok here is what it looks like on the rack that has watering system on 3 rows (2 tubs wide 3 tubs hight) – Again first column is what is alimenting each row the other connectors are for each tubs on the row.
T T L
T T L
L T L
In red the T in blue the L


http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p...WaterLines.jpg

For a column rack you can use onlythe T's however I like to put my valves in the middle and on the front, having the lines tied on the wood not getting in the way as shown in the previous pic.

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like this



l l
l l
l l
l __o__ l
l
l
l
T-----L
l
l
T-----L
l
l
T-----L
l
l
T-----L
l
l
T-----L

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Deborah

Ok here is what it looks like on the rack that has watering system on 3 rows (2 tubs wide 3 tubs hight) – Again first column is what is alimenting each row the other connectors are for each tubs on the row.
T T L
T T L
L T L
In red the T in blue the L


http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p...WaterLines.jpg

For a column rack you can use onlythe T's however I like to put my valves in the middle and on the front, having the lines tied on the wood not getting in the way as shown in the previous pic.

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I understand this...but in your previous post you have 6 T's and an L for a 5 wide system....that still just doesnt add up for me. T on the far left for the column/vertical line, with the T barb leading to the line for that row, with T's on the first 4 tubs to keep the line going, bringing the total up to 5 t's for the row, plus the L on the end. I still don't see where the sixth T is coming in.

As for the in the middle/front idea, that is basically what I am asking for peoples suggestions on. I can run the vertical line with T's down the line, with the line for every row leading to an L in the middle/front to lead to the valve....or, just have the vertical line with the T lead to the valve with some slack to put it wherever I want it. The first way will keep everything straight and neat, but for a single column rack, I think it may be more hassle/cost than it may be worth. Even though it is only 1 tub wide, you still suggest the extra cost/work is worth it to have the valves in the middle/front?

If I don't do the front/middle thing, it will look more or less like what the tutorial described in nixer's link, which is my rack.

Ignore the fact that I suck at keeping my hand steady, but here is the two ways I am considering, just in case I have confused some people. Purple L's, Green T's, Blue for the drinking valve, reservoir on top, yellow drain valve. Red is the tubing...most of it is pretty obvious. The one on the right would certainly cost less, but do you all think I will have issues with some of the tubing not being tight against the rack, maybe the rats being able to chew on it (assuming we don't use standoffs)--I don't think it will be a problem, but I would hate to build it and have to rebuild it the other way because of some stupid oversight.

http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/i...ckwatering.jpg

Sorry it is so small, photobucket wont let me go bigger.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ThyTempest

Ignore the fact that I suck at keeping my hand steady, but here is the two ways I am considering, just in case I have confused some people. Purple L's, Green T's, Blue for the drinking valve, reservoir on top, yellow drain valve. Red is the tubing...most of it is pretty obvious. The one on the right would certainly cost less, but do you all think I will have issues with some of the tubing not being tight against the rack, maybe the rats being able to chew on it (assuming we don't use standoffs)--I don't think it will be a problem, but I would hate to build it and have to rebuild it the other way because of some stupid oversight.

http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/i...ckwatering.jpg

Sorry it is so small, photobucket wont let me go bigger.

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We didn't use the L's at the water nozzle like you have drawn, just the T's from the line coming down from the water. I'll go take a pic, back in a sec....

Okay, here we go... Not sure if this is what you are looking for....
http://www.metalmonkeyexotics.com/rack1.jpg
http://www.metalmonkeyexotics.com/rack2.jpg
http://www.metalmonkeyexotics.com/rack3.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ThyTempest

I understand this...but in your previous post you have 6 T's and an L for a 5 wide system....that still just doesnt add up for me.

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My bad I did not pay attention an type one to many ;)

Perfect Connie...actively useful as always. I assume that works well for you without the L's, so I think I will do the same to help cut costs.

Btw, I really like your cement tub rack...looks a lot nicer than mine...straighter too.

Now...I need some suggestions on how to safely/securely put a reservoir on top of our rack. Unlike yours Connie (doh!), we don't have a nice extension of the columns above the top tub to set a shelf or something on. Ours is almost exactly this rack, with a little bit of extra bracing because I was cheap and used some old/free/warped wood. http://www.arbreptiles.com/cages/rat_rack/ratrack.shtml

I have been trying to come up with a way to put a reservoir on top without making it a pain in the ass to add food to the top tub...and to no avail. Another hindrance is the fact that it is a little wobbly (not too bad once it is settled), but I would definitely need to be careful about where I put that much weight structurally. I have plenty of ideas, but not enough money to entertain them all until I find the best solution....thats where you all come in. Help me out.

Got a pic of the top of your rack?

Coming right up....

By the way, I think I have two potential ideas. I will take a pic of just the rack, then one of each of my ideas. My biggest issue is just deciding where the best place for that amount of weight to be. In the middle helps the wobble factor, but honestly, I don't know how well wood/screws will hold. 2x2's with 2 1//2" deck screws I think.

http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/i...atwater005.jpg
http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/i...atwater007.jpg
http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/i...atwater008.jpg
http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/i...atwater009.jpg

It is kind of hard to see in the pics, but the braces on two of the corners stick up above the top. The second pic uses two dog crate dividers...plenty strong, but maybe not the best weight distribution, and I could see the rats in the top tub still, etc.

3rd pic is the most promising I think. It raises the reservoir for better flow, the little stand happens to sit perfectly between the edges, so long as they will hold the weight. The only major problem with this is that the top of the little stand spins, but a simple screw through it, or just removing it, would fix that.

The last one is probably the most stable...I would remove the legs so as not to spin. This is my second favorite. I can't really see any problems with it.

Let me know what you think would be best of the above, or none of them.

id go with the 3rd pic also but i would just build a shelf to add to the top so its all one piece

I think a couple of small pieces of wood like deb was talking about would do the trick. You dont need a huge tub. Tall is better than long and wide in this case.

Thanks for the help guys. Our stuff to get going should be here Thursday.

I think this is my last question...

How did you put the whole in your reservoir for the connector. I imagine it has to be a nearly perfect (if not perfect) circle in order to get a good seal. Also, what do you do to fill your reservoirs. I don't know if it is the norm to just remove the line from the barb and use the shut-off, or if that process repeated over and over will eventually damage the tubing, in which case you either use something else to fill it in place, or keep taking off the connector, which I think would lead to similar problems.

Quote:

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How did you put the whole in your reservoir for the connector. I imagine it has to be a nearly perfect (if not perfect) circle in order to get a good seal. Also, what do you do to fill your reservoirs.

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We used a big drill. :D

Quote:

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I don't know if it is the norm to just remove the line from the barb and use the shut-off, or if that process repeated over and over will eventually damage the tubing, in which case you either use something else to fill it in place, or keep taking off the connector, which I think would lead to similar problems.

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Not sure what you mean? You fill the reservoir with a bucket of water, or a really long hose. :confused:

Gotcha...I figured that would be the case.

Any ideas on how to get the hole in a potential reservoir without a drill...perhaps with a soldering iron or a sturdy utility knife? I can get to a drill, but it would potentially be a big hassle. Also, if a drill really is the only way, do you know the measurement to use for the RBI tank connector?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ThyTempest

Gotcha...I figured that would be the case.

Any ideas on how to get the hole in a potential reservoir without a drill...perhaps with a soldering iron or a sturdy utility knife? I can get to a drill, but it would potentially be a big hassle. Also, if a drill really is the only way, do you know the measurement to use for the RBI tank connector?

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That'd be a question for Chris, I have no idea about what size, or what else to use.

The tub we had surprisingly had a little circle just about the right size and in the right place where we put the connector.

i use a step drill bit it doesnt leave burs

Found everything I needed to finish off the supply list for the watering system today. It took a lot of searching (2 Meijers, Walmart, Home Depot and Target) before I found the tub. The 1x4's were cut from an 8foot 1x4 from Home Depot's scratch bin. 49 cent's because it had too much orange paint on the ends. Perfectly straight and I still have quite a bit left over for something else...I dunno. Voila. Thanks to everyone for all the tips and advice along the way. I can't wait to be free of water bottles.

http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/i...empest/001.jpg

When you borrow the drill, ask if they have a unibit (sp). It's a cone shaped drill bit

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ThyTempest

Thanks for the help guys. Our stuff to get going should be here Thursday.

I think this is my last question...

How did you put the whole in your reservoir for the connector. I imagine it has to be a nearly perfect (if not perfect) circle in order to get a good seal. Also, what do you do to fill your reservoirs. I don't know if it is the norm to just remove the line from the barb and use the shut-off, or if that process repeated over and over will eventually damage the tubing, in which case you either use something else to fill it in place, or keep taking off the connector, which I think would lead to similar problems.

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When you order the connector from RBI, it will come with instructions and tell you what size drill bit to buy inorder to drill the correct size hole in the bucket.
To fill your bucket, either use a hose or use old water gallon jugs....I would not keep removing the tubing...
****Best Advise*** Buy extra supplies, sippers and tubing.....Sippers clog and its easier to replace right away (then its no rush to fix the old one) and rats will get out (no matter how careful you are, it'll happen) . When they get out they chew water lines. Much easier to replace water lines when you have 20ft or so sitting around, instead of waiting a few days for a shipment to come in.....

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ThyTempest

Found everything I needed to finish off the supply list for the watering system today. It took a lot of searching (2 Meijers, Walmart, Home Depot and Target) before I found the tub. The 1x4's were cut from an 8foot 1x4 from Home Depot's scratch bin. 49 cent's because it had too much orange paint on the ends. Perfectly straight and I still have quite a bit left over for something else...I dunno. Voila. Thanks to everyone for all the tips and advice along the way. I can't wait to be free of water bottles.

http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/i...empest/001.jpg

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Thats the exact same tub we have! :gj: Good job finding it.

I only spent 2 hours driving around town checking every place that sells anything sterilite to find it....then I go back to the Meijer(for groceries this time) I had been to earlier in the day looking for a tub, and they had since stocked this. Couldn't have been 2 hours earlier, noooo that would have made my life far too easy. Pfft....I hate my life.

Just finished installing the watering system. What a pain in the ass without a drill. My uncle was kind enough to give me his old drill...and now I know why. Both of the batteries hold a charge for about 6 seconds (literally) of usuable torque, then its back on the charger for at least an hour before you get your 6 seconds back. I used my first good spurt of energy from the drill to start the "ring" and at least get the pilot drilled in the reservoir. After that, I just used the spade bit by hand until the plastic would pop out. No drill makes securing the clamps a pain too...I had to use an awl for pilot holes, and of course the only flat head screwdriver I had was on my leatherman...not the easiest to work with.

I checked all the valves, and all of them seem to be set perfectly already, but I will keep an eye on them over the next few days. Thanks to Rich at RBI for all the gear.

Oh--by far the biggest annoyance with this system is the valve clips. They are soooo stiff it was hard to get the valves in the hardware cloth. My fingers are raw. None of our rats have tried it out yet, but one of them has been sitting under it staring at it for a couple of minutes now.

Best thing about it...I can hear myself think without the "clack clack clack!" of the ratties taking a drink break. Not having to fill a ton of bottles is great too.

I know we all thrive on pics, even ones as lame as this, but here you go. Thanks to everyone for the tips on good reservoirs, I am happy with the result.
http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/i...pest/001-2.jpg

STUPID PHOTOBUCKET!!! ARG! I hate photobucket...it never does what I say anymore.
Finally.