Questions on keeping BPs in tubs.

Hello, I might be getting a bp soon. I will be housing it in a rubbermaid tub. The tub is around 4 feet long, how long should the snake stay in that size? Or is that acceptable for life?(I doubt it)

Also, I read that temps should never fall below 80 on the cool side, and temps should always be 90-95 on the warm side. I also read that you should not use a heatlamp, then how do you reach these temps? UTHs, I know, but do you need 2? One on cool side and one on warm side? But then both temps are going to be 95...

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Originally Posted by Austin D

Hello, I might be getting a bp soon. I will be housing it in a rubbermaid tub. The tub is around 4 feet long, how long should the snake stay in that size? Or is that acceptable for life?(I doubt it)

Also, I read that temps should never fall below 80 on the cool side, and temps should always be 90-95 on the warm side. I also read that you should not use a heatlamp, then how do you reach these temps? UTHs, I know, but do you need 2? One on cool side and one on warm side? But then both temps are going to be 95...

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A 4 foot tub is actually too large. A 41 quart tub (34in X 17in X 6 in) is perfect for an adult bp.

Only one end of the tub needs to be at 95-90, the other side needs to be at 80. As for UTHs, you only need one, maybe two depending on how cold it gets in your area, but one usually works. Also you'll need a thermostat to regulate the temps on the UTH.

If you get a baby go with a smaller tub (15 quarts), an adult can live it's entire life in a 41 quarts tub 34 3/4"L x 16 1/2"W x 6"H

So a tub that is 4 feet long will be more than enough.

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then how do you reach these temps? UTHs, I know, but do you need 2? One on cool side and one on warm side? But then both temps are going to be 95...

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Temperature on the cool side will depend on the ambient temps of your home.

If the temp of your home does not allow you to achieve proper temps on the cool side there are several things that can be done

A# Have the room heated in the high 70's which is not really convinient for 1 snake

B# Have an additional heat source UTH and an additional thermostat set to achieve the desired temp.

Ok

Thanks


I'll check what the temps are in the tub without any heating.

If you are using the lid that comes with that tub, you'll definitely want to find a way to make it fit tighter. I know they latch on the ends, but there is enough play in the middle for a ball python to escape.

JonV

Ok thanks. Will a bungie cord do it? Also what humidity do ball pythons need on a regular basis? what about when shedding?

A couple of bungie cords should work. Just make sure they're tight around the tub.

Normal humidity should be between 50 and 60%. You can bump it up to 60-70% during shedding. Not every one bumps the humidity for shedding, and still have good results.

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Originally Posted by Austin D

Ok thanks. Will a bungie cord do it? Also what humidity do ball pythons need on a regular basis? what about when shedding?

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50% normally, 60-70% when in shed. Check the caresheet buddy :D

Humidity isn't hard to keep up in a tub, especially if the water dish is over part of the heated end. That's one of the great things about using them. :)

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Originally Posted by Austin D

Ok

Thanks


I'll check what the temps are in the tub without any heating.

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You'll need heating on the warm end, and I don't stress too much if the cool side is 75 if the warm is in the low 90's - the snakes tend to thermoregulate quite well.

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Originally Posted by nevohraalnavnoj

If you are using the lid that comes with that tub, you'll definitely want to find a way to make it fit tighter. I know they latch on the ends, but there is enough play in the middle for a ball python to escape.

JonV

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Knock wood - I've never used anything other than the latches, and never had an escapee - even with my biggest girls pushing with all their mite on the sides - they can push it up a smidge, but it doesn't stay up well enough for them to do anything more than that.

I keep my living room (snake room) on the hot side temps in the room alone stay around 80. I have flexwatt heat tape (back heat) set to 92 for my snake tubs. ambiant in the tubs stays around 80 with a hot spot around 90. When I change the paper I mist the tub just a little (also helps the paper stay in place)
As for size I have 2 babies that are very shy in 6qt tubs, all that fits is the hide and water dish those snakes are just under 200g.
I have 2 that are in 15qt tubs one is a baby that is more outgoing, and the other is about to hit 400g.
I have 2 gravid girls in 41qt tubs, the would not use the hides I made for them (just pushed them out of the way) and those are 1,900g and 1,780g.

for the smaller tubd the latches on the tubs are working fine, on the 2 big tubs I have 4 bungi cords, because with 2 cords one of the girls still got out.


So this would be a normal set up:

______________________________ lid
\. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . / row of holes
. \{hide}______________{water}/

as long as you have something to hold the lid down you are good:D

Tubs work fine. A rule of thumb that I use for smaller BPs is, I like a tub that they can stretch their whole length out, diagonally. Like how you measure a TV screen. For my adults, nothing is needed larger, than a 41-quart tub, though. This would be too large for, say, a footlong baby. Too hard to thermoregulate, too much "no man's land" in the middle between the warm and cool sides. I like a snug setup where the snake can choose warm or cold.

As far as securing the lid is concerned if you plan on using it, I use some plastic clamps that i purchased at a local depot. The bag had a variety of sizes, i use the small ones for my QT area when I get new ones in. Secure the sides of the lid to the tub and there ya have it. Works quite well. Good luck...

Tip:
Don't drill holes in your tub until you've had an opportunity to test the environment. You might find that if it starts to sweat in there then make one small hole at a time or else you just might be buying another tub an starting all over again.