Switching from frozen to live

Ok, my ball python hasn't been eating for about a month and a half now so i decided to try live. She was eating frozen jumbo mice(and started refusing them) and is now big enough to eat small rats. So i bough a live small rat (about the size of a jumbo mouse) for her and she wouldn't eat it, in fact she was running away from it because it was crawling on her. Is she afraid of the small rat or is she just not hungry? Is there a better way to transition from frozen to live like mabye feeding her a smaller live rodent? She has never ate rats before. I know ball pythons go off feed in the winter and i have come to terms with that but i want to make sure that is the reason she is not eating and its not because of a mistake im making. I would like to begin feeding her live, she is 4, but i don't want to scare her. Im pretty sure I have all her husbandry down so im pretty confident its not that.


If I could get some help I would really appreciate it! :D


P.S. I have an 100w infrared light that i usualy keep on only in the day, should i keep this on 24/7

First problem is your trying to switch two things at the same time...from F/T to live, and from Mice to Rats. I would suggest you pick one or the other and make that switch first. Some BP's are startled by rats, especially the first time they see them, and please don't let a rat crawl on your BP...bad bites can happen that way.

If you are determined to feed live, I would start out with a live adult mouse, since your BP is used to the mouse smell and recognizes it as food. After it's eating again, you can try switching to rats.

In addition, your BP might just be in a fast right now...Tis the season. How much weight has it lost since it went off feed?

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Originally Posted by zackw419

Ok, my ball python hasn't been eating for about a month and a half now so i decided to try live. She was eating frozen jumbo mice(and started refusing them) and is now big enough to eat small rats. So i bough a live small rat (about the size of a jumbo mouse) for her and she wouldn't eat it, in fact she was running away from it because it was crawling on her. Is she afraid of the small rat or is she just not hungry? Is there a better way to transition from frozen to live like mabye feeding her a smaller live rodent? She has never ate rats before. I know ball pythons go off feed in the winter and i have come to terms with that but i want to make sure that is the reason she is not eating and its not because of a mistake im making. I would like to begin feeding her live, she is 4, but i don't want to scare her. Im pretty sure I have all her husbandry down so im pretty confident its not that.


If I could get some help I would really appreciate it! :D


P.S. I have an 100w infrared light that i usualy keep on only in the day, should i keep this on 24/7

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ball pythons are notorious for going off feed. How old is your girl? what is her set up like? (exact temps, humidty, what are you measuring them with) etc. answer those questions and describe EVERYTHING about it and im sure someone here can help answer your question

YouTube - 8 Ball Pythons - Feeding Lessons

Hope this helps this is how I feed....

im not exactly sure on how much weight she's lost, she looks a bit thinner but she is still 'full'.

she is 4, i have her in a 40 gal tank, i only have 1 therm and 1 humidifying gauge they are directly in the middle of her cage i keep the humidity between 50 and 60 and the temp is 85 she has a heat pad and a 100 watt on the hott side so im guessing the hot side is around 90

do you all think she was traumatized by having the rat crawl on her? I feel bad. I feel like putting the rat back in would only haunt her. Should i try killing it and putting it in first, or getting a live jumbo mouse?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by zackw419

im not exactly sure on how much weight she's lost, she looks a bit thinner but she is still 'full'.

i have her in a 40 gal tank, i only have 1 therm and 1 humidifying gauge they are directly in the middle of her cage i keep the humidity between 50 and 60 and the temp is 85 she has a heat pad and a 100 watt on the hott side so im guessing the hot side is around 90

do you all think she was traumatized by having the rat crawl on her? I feel bad. I feel like putting the rat back in would only haunt her. Should i try killing it and putting it in first, or getting a live jumbo mouse?

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i bet your hot side is scorching hot. your guessing, and im guessing your CHE and UTH are not regulated since your not even monitoring there temperature.

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Originally Posted by JeffJ

i bet your hot side is scorching hot. your guessing, and im guessing your CHE and UTH are not regulated since your not even monitoring there temperature.

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well then guide me from here, what do i need to help better regulate. She ate for 4 years of her life non-stop, she is a very heathy happy snake. Im always open to suggestions, but she in not neglected. One of the guys from the petstore reccomended a 100w bulb i have a 75 watt if you think that would be better.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by zackw419

well then guide me from here, what do i need to help better regulate. She ate for 4 years of her life non-stop, she is a very heathy happy snake. Im always open to suggestions, but she in not neglected. One of the guys from the petstore reccomended a 100w bulb i have a 75 watt if you think that would be better.

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i dont even run a topical heat source as i do not need it in my house for ambient temperature. i have the sides and back insulated with 1/8th" packing foam and the glass is lined back and sides with black poster board. i have all of my screen top masked off with tinfoil except for 2" above the cool side. My cage has a ventilation grid along the bottom front under the slider doors too. i have a dimmer i made regulating my Hot side UTH to 94*F which gives me a gradent of 94 by the glass on the hot side, 90 in mid hot side with the hide over it. 85 mid tank down to 75 closest to the glass on the cold side. ambiant air temperature is 80*F the cool side hide is a home made one he seems to enjoy over the 77-80*F area.

i my self use a IR temperature gun to monitor surface temperature and a wireless national geographic digital thermometer to manage the ambient readings of in cage and external (room) temperature

it is important to regulate the CHE and UTH with a dimmer/Rheostat or thermostat

Quote:

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Originally Posted by zackw419

im not exactly sure on how much weight she's lost, she looks a bit thinner but she is still 'full'.

she is 4, i have her in a 40 gal tank, i only have 1 therm and 1 humidifying gauge they are directly in the middle of her cage i keep the humidity between 50 and 60 and the temp is 85 she has a heat pad and a 100 watt on the hott side so im guessing the hot side is around 90

do you all think she was traumatized by having the rat crawl on her? I feel bad. I feel like putting the rat back in would only haunt her. Should i try killing it and putting it in first, or getting a live jumbo mouse?

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I suggest you buy a proper cage and the proper supplies.

Go to reptilebasics.com

2X3 cage https://www.reptilebasics.com/2x3-Cage-12-High-p-16286.html

-OR-

https://www.reptilebasics.com/Iris-C...k-p-16183.html

You also need

https://www.reptilebasics.com/Helix-...t-p-16139.html

https://www.reptilebasics.com/My-Wei...l-p-16191.html

https://www.reptilebasics.com/RBI-201-p-16245.html

-OR-

I prefer this one.

https://www.reptilebasics.com/412L-I...r-p-16288.html

http://www.walmart.com/catalog/produ...ct_id=10756686

It is kinda pricey and there is cheaper options.

You can get a basic plastic tub, dimmer switch and UTH. You can use little plastic colored bowls for the hides.

You can spend less then $50 or you can spend over $500.

You must have a quality scale, and a reliable way to measure heat and humidity.

You also must have a quality way to regulate your heat source.

I am sure there is tons I missed the good folks of BPnet can fill in the gaps.'

Remember you do not have to spend this much this is just what I use and it works for me so that is what I support.

Give Rich a call he is a great guy and has great customer service he will hook you up 336 880 5798

i appreiciate the time you took to put that together. I will defiently look into getting better thermostats and hydrometers but right now money is tight and i would like to begin working with what i have now and how i can get the most out of it.

my main question of course is about feeding my girl, making sure she eats. Can we start from here?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by zackw419

i appreiciate the time you took to put that together. I will defiently look into getting better thermostats and hydrometers but right now money is tight and i would like to begin working with what i have and how i can get the most out of what i already have

my main question of course is about feeding my girl, making sure she eats. Can we start from here?

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you can keep the 40 gal and make it functional and properly regulated. save that $200 for other parts of her husbandry that will help her feel more comfortable. :) 40 gal isn't ideal, but it is 100% usable if setup correctly.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by zackw419

i appreiciate the time you took to put that together. I will defiently look into getting better thermostats and hydrometers but right now money is tight and i would like to begin working with what i have now and how i can get the most out of it.

my main question of course is about feeding my girl, making sure she eats. Can we start from here?

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Although it may be hard to understand, fixing your setup is a start to getting your BP to eat. Many times that BPs refuse to eat is because of husbandry issues. Their temps are wrong or they don't have a hide that they feel secure in or something similar.

A good start would be to find out exactly what temps & humidity you do have. To get accurate readings, it needs to be digital, but it does not need to be expensive. You can buy an Acu-rite brand that has 2 temp readings and humidity for about $12 at Walmart. Here is a link so you can see what it looks like:
http://www.partshelf.com/acu00891.html
If you can't find that exact model, Walmart will have similar ones in about the same price range, but I have found I really like the combination of features on that one, and it gets recommended around here a lot, so I'm not alone. Home Depot and Lowe's probably carry similar things also.

You mentioned that your BP likes the hide on the cool side, but we really don't know if she likes that hide, or the temps there, or possibly something else that makes her feel more secure there. We generally recommend 2 identical hides, so that the snake won't choose a hide that they prefer and end up using it exclusively instead of thermoregulating properly. Do you see your snake using both hides? If not, it might be that she doesn't like the hide on the hot side, or it might be that it is too hot there. Once you find out what the temps really are, and adjust them to be in the proper range if necessary, if the snake is still using only the one hide, I'd suggest trying identical hides.

A 40 gallon tank is large for even an adult BP. As humans, we tend to think of wide open spaces as good, but BPs don't think that way. They feel more secure when they are squeezed into tight places. If your BP has spent her whole life in this tank, and been eating fine, then you will probably do ok to keep her in it, if you wish, but I would add a lot of stuff (if you have not already) so she can feel secure even when not in a hide. One trick that works well with many snakes that aren't eating because they don't feel secure enough is to add a lot of loosely crumpled newspaper, and the snake can crawl under and through it. For something that looks better, you can get fake flowers or greenery at Walmart or a dollar store for very cheap.

Also, I highly recommend getting a digital scale so you can know what your snake weighs and monitor how much weight she is losing. Healthy BPs can fast for months and not lose much weight. If she is losing a significant amount of weight, it is time to get worried.

thank you guys sooo much for all the help, i really really appreciate it. Alright what would be the most appropriate size and type of aquarium for my 33 inch 4 year old bp? I would perfer an aqaurium instead of a tub. It would be best if I could utalize the tanks i have and set them up correctly but if i must, i am more than willing to buy additional things, it just might take a bit of time, i am a teenager in need of a job. I have a 10 gal, 15 gal, and 40 gal glass aquariums.

She hasnt used the hide i have for her on the hot side ever, but its only been in there for 2 days. The two hides are NOT identical.

She has not spent her whole life in this tank, she was originaly in a 15 gal and she stopped eating while she was in that tank, not when i moved her up to the 40, which is what was reccomended to me.

Im definently going to start by getting the thermostat you reccomended.

Ideal would be 30gal tops but you can make the 40 gal work and save some money. just set it up correctly according to the many tips ytou can find all over this section.

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Originally Posted by JeffJ

Ideal would be 30gal tops but you can make the 40 gal work and save some money. just set it up correctly according to the many tips ytou can find all over this section.

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cool, im going to search around, the main thing is probably crowding it with shrubary i would suppose?

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Originally Posted by zackw419

thank you guys sooo much for all the help, i really really appreciate it. Alright what would be the most appropriate size and type of aquarium for my 33 inch 4 year old bp? I would perfer an aqaurium instead of a tub. It would be best if I could utalize the tanks i have and set them up correctly but if i must, i am more than willing to buy additional things, it just might take a bit of time, i am a teenager in need of a job. I have a 10 gal, 15 gal, and 40 gal glass aquariums.

She hasnt used the hide i have for her on the hot side ever, but its only been in there for 2 days. The two hides are NOT identical.

She has not spent her whole life in this tank, she was originaly in a 15 gal and she stopped eating while she was in that tank, not when i moved her up to the 40, which is what was reccomended to me.

Im definently going to start by getting the thermostat you reccomended.

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I suggest putting her in a smaller tank. I do not use tanks personally, so do not know the exact sized, but somewhere in a 20 long range should be about right. You may need to cover the sides of the aquarium to make her feel more secure. Part of the top may also need to be covered (tin foil) to increase humidity. You will also need two hides, one for each side. Make sure your temperature and humidity are in the proper range. Leave her alone in her new enclosure for at least a week before attempting to feed her.

Good luck.

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Originally Posted by zackw419

Im definently going to start by getting the thermostat you reccomended.

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Just to clarify, the Acu-rite is a thermometer (which measures temperature) and a hygrometer (which measures humidity). It is not a thermostat (which will control temperature by turning on & off a heating and/or cooling device). I realize this was probably a typo on your part, but wanted to avoid any misunderstanding.

There are only two reasons a BP won't eat. Because they don't want to, or, stress. They regularly go off feed for several different reasons with no ill effect.

But the stress thing is a different story. A stressed snake is not refusing to eat because it doesn't WANT to eat but rather because it CAN'T. Stress is more like a disease than a mood. It sounds like you are back on track with your husbandry. Switching from frozen to live is a whole lot easier than the other way around. And, I would stick with mice until she's eating again.

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Originally Posted by kc261

Just to clarify, the Acu-rite is a thermometer (which measures temperature) and a hygrometer (which measures humidity). It is not a thermostat (which will control temperature by turning on & off a heating and/or cooling device). I realize this was probably a typo on your part, but wanted to avoid any misunderstanding.

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gotcha, twas a typo but thank you for the heads up :)

i have a few q's regarding the husbandry:

the infrared light i have seems to really dry up the soil and lower the humitidy, usually i i spray the tank a few times a day, is there a better way to keep humidity?

also what do most do to keep the enclosure a constant temp 24/7? should i leave her heat lamp on 24/7? seems like it would be too hot but i dont want her to be too cold.

due to the tank size should she have more than one heating pad? she stays mostly between the cool and the warmside. where the hide she stay in is located. She never seems to go to the cool side...too cool?

also where is the best part of the cage to get the best reading for temp and humidity? near where the dirt is or near the top of the cage?

thx 4 your input jenn.

Get that acurite thermometer and put it IN the tank on the wall near the floor of the coldside. Attach it with some 3M sticky squares which you can get at any home and garden chain store. I find everything at lowes personally. Anyway, mount the thermometer there and run the probe over to where the UTH is and put it IN the substrate above the UTH. Then you'll have both cool and hot side readings. I tinfoiled the top of my terrarium to keep humidity in and am also using terrarium moss. Keeps the humidity up in the 60s all day WITH a lamp over the cool side(its cold here lol). I'm still working the kinks out with mine too, got a lot of help from people on this forum and once my hides from reptile basics finally show up I should be good to go.

As for regulation, you really should have at LEAST a dimmer on a UTH/lamp but I'm running a basic on/off tstat for the UTH and a dimmer for the light.

but isnt the substrate going to be a complete different temp them the air in the cage? how do i measure both and what should the temps of both be?


what type of dimmer should i get? (cheapest would be best)

use a temperature gun to measure surface temperature and a digital probe for ambiant.

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Originally Posted by JeffJ

use a temperature gun to measure surface temperature and a digital probe for ambiant.

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is ambiant the temperature on the bottom of the tank?

so i need the acurite and a temp gun?

do you have any specific models you know of that are reliable yet affordable?

My Rtb did the same thing. He was eating Medium F/T rats and then went off feed and starting losing weight. So we tried the live medium rats, he was scared to death. We went to adult mice and he snatched them right up. Now he is on 3 small live rats and hoping we can go to F/T again. Good luck!

You don't need to run out and spend hundreds of dollars here. I never worry about ambiant temps too much. Acurite thermometers (about 12 bucks) come with a probe. Just place the probe on the surface of the substrate at the warm end (mine are actually in the warm side hide). And, stick the unit at the other end on the glass and down low. The first reading on the acurite will be your cool side ambient temp (80), the second reading will be the hot side surface temp (90) and the third reading will be humidity (50-60). Heat lamps suck.... the humidity out. Plug your uth into a thermostat and set for as close as you can get to the above readings. Ambiant temps can be raised by insulating the tank. Humidity can be increased by covering the top. There are tons of great threads on the proper set-up.

You do not NEED both the acurite and a temp gun. It is best to have both if you can afford it. I would go to Reptile Basics as the best place for getting many of the more specialized supplies such as a temp gun and a t-stat.

However, you can get by with an acurite and a dimmer (also called a rheostat). A lamp dimmer from Walmart or Lowe's or Home Depot will work. But you have to remember that the dimmer does not adjust itself, so it will not work well unless the snake's enclosure is in an area with a pretty stable temp. If you turn off or lower the heat in your house at night, a dimmer cannot compensate for this. That is why t-stats are better.

Place the acurite on the floor of the enclosure on the cool side, and place the probe under the warm side hide. You don't want it up near the top of the enclosure, because that is not where your BP spends most of its time. I also recommend that once you think you have everything tweaked to the right temps that you move the probe around to see what the temps are everywhere in your enclosure. Leave it under the cool hide one day. Attach it near the top of the enclosure one day, etc. This will not quite be the same as having a temp gun, but it will give you a very good idea of the entire range of temps in your enclosure including highs & lows over a 24 hours period, which a temp gun can't give.

Someone suggested attaching the acurite to the side of the tank with double sided sticky squares. I do not recommend this. First of all, you will want to be able take it out for cage cleaning, battery changes, etc., and I don't see how you could do this if it is stuck to the tank unless you pull it off and use new sticky squares every time, and that just sounds like a pain. But more importantly, I do not want anything that sticky in my snake's enclosure. If the snake managed to get the acurite knocked lose, then stick itself to the tape, that would be very bad. I have used that blue painter's tape that is not very sticky and it seems to be ok. But the acurites I just stand up in a corner, and the snake knocks them down and I stand them back up.

Hey where did you guys all get the foam to insulate the tank from? Lowes or Home Cheapo or somewhere else?

very good to know, THANK YOU

what wattage should my heat lamp be if the UTH is the correct heat. do i need to leave the heat lamp on all night to maintain temperature? do i even need the heat lammp?

If your temps stay up without a lamp then you don't need one. I just need one because it is cold in this house in the winter. BPs do not need a light for the actual light, just for the heat if needed.

As far as a lamp... if you use a bulb use infared or use a ceramic heating element but the one I just bought isn't working half as well as the red bulb and I'm taking it back. $40 for a ceramic heating element...sheesh, I'm glad I saved the box and receipt!

First you need to know that if you switch she might never go back to F/T so you need to think about this carefully

Second a month for a 4 year old BP is NOTHING, I would assume she is proper weight and she could go MONTHS without eating (I have individuals that have fasted from as little to 3 months to as long as 9 months)

Make sure your husbandry is optimal and know that sexually mature individuals can go of feed at this time of the year.

Husbandry can also be the cause even if nothing has changed, they can become stress overtime and go off feed.

Again as long as your BP is healthy and not losing weight there is nothing to worry about (it will only be frustrating for you)

If you want to feed live just offer live mice than once your BP eats again with consistency you can switch to rats if this is what you want to do, a small rat once a week will be sufficient.

VERY IMPORTANT Do not guess your temps, KNOW your temps.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by zackw419

Ok, my ball python hasn't been eating for about a month and a half now so i decided to try live. She was eating frozen jumbo mice(and started refusing them) and is now big enough to eat small rats. So i bough a live small rat (about the size of a jumbo mouse) for her and she wouldn't eat it, in fact she was running away from it because it was crawling on her. Is she afraid of the small rat or is she just not hungry? Is there a better way to transition from frozen to live like mabye feeding her a smaller live rodent? She has never ate rats before. I know ball pythons go off feed in the winter and i have come to terms with that but i want to make sure that is the reason she is not eating and its not because of a mistake im making. I would like to begin feeding her live, she is 4, but i don't want to scare her. Im pretty sure I have all her husbandry down so im pretty confident its not that.


If I could get some help I would really appreciate it! :D


P.S. I have an 100w infrared light that i usualy keep on only in the day, should i keep this on 24/7

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I finally got mine to eat today by feeding her in her tank for the first time. I've been switching her to a big rubbermaid container and feeding her in there but it hasn't been working at all lately. She didn't strike at the food I offered her today but I just left the mouse right in front of her hide. Checked back an hour later and no mouse!

Try leaving the mouse in with your snake for awhile and see what happens.

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Originally Posted by ScottyDsntKnow

I finally got mine to eat today by feeding her in her tank for the first time. I've been switching her to a big rubbermaid container and feeding her in there but it hasn't been working at all lately. She didn't strike at the food I offered her today but I just left the mouse right in front of her hide. Checked back an hour later and no mouse!

Try leaving the mouse in with your snake for awhile and see what happens.

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sometimes they hide it so take a look :P

Last night she ate :) in her new tub


thank you for your help everyone

once a bp starts eating again she will eat for a while right?

Maybe, maybe not. Depends on the setup and how comfortable she is.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by zackw419

Last night she ate :) in her new tub


thank you for your help everyone

once a bp starts eating again she will eat for a while right?

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if your lucky sometimes you just get lucky.

youll know they are well acclimated and have become accustomed to your routine when they start hitting the food item like a bus. My BP does this thankfully.

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Originally Posted by JeffJ

if your lucky sometimes you just get lucky.

youll know they are well acclimated and have become accustomed to your routine when they start hitting the food item like a bus. My BP does this thankfully.

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i have a feeling shes back in it, things are back to being warm here, squirls coming out...insect coming out...it seem right :)

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Originally Posted by zackw419

i have a feeling shes back in it, things are back to being warm here, squirls coming out...insect coming out...it seem right :)

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Outside temps should not be effecting a properly housed snake though... I really hope everything works out for you but just make sure your snake's temps and humidity are in the right area no matter what season it is.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ScottyDsntKnow

Outside temps should not be effecting a properly housed snake though... I really hope everything works out for you but just make sure your snake's temps and humidity are in the right area no matter what season it is.

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Agreed, the only thing about the weather I can't control in my snake room is the barometric pressure, which may be detected by my BPs.

for the most part they arn't

but seasonal change must affect them to a certain extent since some ball pythons fast during the winter months

Quote:

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Originally Posted by zackw419

Last night she ate :) in her new tub


thank you for your help everyone

once a bp starts eating again she will eat for a while right?

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Well nothing is written in stone when it comes to keeping snakes but generally once you figure out what triggered a successful feed for your snake, if you stick to that routine, you'll up the chances of things going well next time.

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Originally Posted by frankykeno

Well nothing is written in stone when it comes to keeping snakes but generally once you figure out what triggered a successful feed for your snake, if you stick to that routine, you'll up the chances of things going well next time.

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yeah, she pretty much told me she was hungry. She was crawling against the part of the tub that was exposed to light trying to pop the lid. I fed her and she went back in her hide :). I was a bit sad for the mouse feeding live for my 1st time, but I love my snake so...

Just remember the mouse fulfilled it's natural role as did your snake. We humans with our "messy" emotions sometimes get in the way of that but in the end Mother Nature's creatures do what they are intended and designed to do. :)

If you do prefer f/t feeding, then perhaps down the road when the snake has a good, established feeding pattern down and is showing nice growth you could always try to switch her over then. Just remember for now while you are feeding live to never leave a live prey in there with her for more than 15 or 20 minutes tops (unless the prey is so young it does not have erupted teeth yet) and to be very choosy about where you buy your live prey. Since it's the only source of nutrients your snake gets, it should be the best you can find.

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Originally Posted by frankykeno

Just remember the mouse fulfilled it's natural role as did your snake. We humans with our "messy" emotions sometimes get in the way of that but in the end Mother Nature's creatures do what they are intended and designed to do. :)

If you do prefer f/t feeding, then perhaps down the road when the snake has a good, established feeding pattern down and is showing nice growth you could always try to switch her over then. Just remember for now while you are feeding live to never leave a live prey in there with her for more than 15 or 20 minutes tops (unless the prey is so young it does not have erupted teeth yet) and to be very choosy about where you buy your live prey. Since it's the only source of nutrients your snake gets, it should be the best you can find.

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yeah I fully understand that. Im going to continue feeding live, it doesnt bother me THAT much, besides live has got some vitamins f/t don't have.

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Originally Posted by zackw419

yeah I fully understand that. Im going to continue feeding live, it doesnt bother me THAT much, besides live has got some vitamins f/t don't have.

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Well to be honest that's always been up for a bit of a debate in the snakekeeping community. Sort of a thing where a really high quality f/t can be a lot better than some scruffy, half-fed live from the pet store down the block. Also since no one knows exactly what nutritional requirements a ball python needs, we can't say for sure what type of feeding method would suit it best.

For me it will always come down to this. Feed the very best quality prey you can find whether that's an f/t, a p/k or a live animal, use the feeding method you feel you are most comfortable with and that your particular snake accepts with a strong and consistent feeding response. Do that and you and the snake are golden. :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by zackw419

yeah, she pretty much told me she was hungry. She was crawling against the part of the tub that was exposed to light trying to pop the lid. I fed her and she went back in her hide :). I was a bit sad for the mouse feeding live for my 1st time, but I love my snake so...

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Its the circle of life :) haven't you ever seen lion king? lol dont feel bad its natures way.

ate again tonight!! shes back in it, she is back to being a HUNGRY GIRL


i think this thread can finally be put to a rest, thanks again!!