A Hello and Q's about my Ball

Hello, wanted to stop in, introduce and ask a couple Q's

I have a young male BP, born Apr 20th 08. I've owned him since he was 8 months, so about 2 months now. He has only eaten once and not what the breeder was feeding. They said he was on small rats but the only time he did eat was a young small mouse. He hasn't taken any other food and that was a month ago, breeder said he was eating every 7 days. He is 31 inches long already too and not even a year. Not sure of weight since I dont have a scale.

Tank is 48Lx18Hx15W with a high temp on hot side of 82 and a low of 78 on cool side, constant both all day. Ground temp is exactly 95. Humidity fluctuates between 40-50%. I use Zoomed Reptibark as substrate and a ceramic heater on the hot side and nothing on the cool side. The tank has a UTH also which is on a dimmer. I also have a red light for the cool side that helps bring the ambient temp to 85 over all.

Tank is custom build by me via my favorite place in the world Tap-Plastic lol.

What I am running into is my ball constantly roaming and trying to escape. He had a cpl different hides, half log and a branch with a build in hide. I also just added a tuperware dish to see if the hides were too big or not secure enough for him.

Is it common for balls to be so active? He is active no matter when...day...nite...grrr.

I've tried no handleing for a couple weeks to let him get used to his enclosure. I've tried feeding in a heated tub. Ive tried lives, PK, and F/T. Hopper mice, young mice(which he ate once), and small ass rats.

What can I do to get him to eat? Should I put in better hides? What about temps and humidity? Any help would be great.

The link below is a cpl pics of his enclosure that is from about 30 min ago, 10am PST. Ignore the bricks on top :P He figured out how to push them open and I will be installing latches tomorrow when Tap opens lol

http://www.photoshop.com/user/backco...cd104d06b15cbd

The constant cruising sounds like he is stressed out. I would get a few tight fitting hides (not half logs!) and place one on the hot side and one on the cool side. Those hides you have are definately not enough.

You could also cover three sides of the enclosure with dark paper or foam board. This will help him feel a little more secure.

Also, those stick on dial thermometers and hydrometers are pretty crappy and inacurate. I would get an accurite or something that measures temp and humidity digitally.

Is he in a high traffic area? Have you tried feeding him in his enclosure?

The log is getting replaced today for sure, already planned on that.

The stick on dials are there for quick looks, I have a box of them lying around from when I had my Iguanas. I have a digital reader for the floor temp, white cable hanging inside. It just isn't mounted right now cause I am trying to figure out my temp/humidity regulation via the dimmer switch still.

The cage is in my bedroom, pretty low traffic since we close the door to keep my dog out of the room.

Will definately look into covering the back and sides with foam board. Where can I purchase it?

You can buy foam board at any drug store like CVS or wallgreens. If they don't have black foam board, you could use black poster board instead.

I agree, the hides need to be enclosed spots that are small enough to make him feel secure. He is most likely looking for a hiding spot, since his tank is very open and the hide spots are not "hiding" spots, but too open. The tupperware container is clear, so a snake would not want to hide in it, they want a small dark spot to get away from everyone.

you need to bring up your hot side temps to 90 at the minimum. 92*F preferred or 94*F if they are a problem eater as this time helps educe the feeding instinct. the cold side should be 80*F 70*F area is to low. this i probably why he is suck a trouble eater. the pacing around is due to stress and i would also suggest like others to get some hides for the BP thats going to be a snug fit for them so they feel safe. make sure humidity is in check and he/she should start eating better on there own.

feeder mice/rats shouldn't be more then a little bit bigger then the thickest part of the snakes body. size may or may not be a factor in his/her rejection. also you can try offering two slightly smaller then ideal pray items to him/her that can also help.

if your feeding live presenting helps for problem feeders and if yor are feeding F/T the same applies. one trick i use for F/T mice/rats is i get hot water thats almost boiling point and dip the thawed food item in it then i dangle it in my pythons face immediately and he takes it every time. dangle it about 4-6 inches away the hot water will allow them to pick up the heat very fast and identify it as food.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JeffJ

you need to bring up your hot side temps to 90 at the minimum. 92*F preferred or 94*F if they are a problem eater as this time helps educe the feeding instinct. the cold side should be 80*F 70*F area is to low. this i probably why he is suck a trouble eater. the pacing around is due to stress and i would also suggest like others to get some hides for the BP thats going to be a snug fit for them so they feel safe. make sure humidity is in check and he/she should start eating better on there own.

---

When you talk about temps are you saying air temp or ground temp? My ground temp I have under control and stays at 95 at all times on the hot side, dimmer regulated. The same side as my UTH is a 100w CHE and with just those 2 running temp on hot side for air is 83 cool side 78. When I turn on the 75w red on the cold side the ground temp raises to 97 but I dim down to 95 and the air temps rise to both 85.

During all this humidity stays around 40-50% without mist and 60-70 with misting 3 times a day.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Wrongside

When you talk about temps are you saying air temp or ground temp? My ground temp I have under control and stays at 95 at all times on the hot side, dimmer regulated. The same side as my UTH is a 100w CHE and with just those 2 running temp on hot side for air is 83 cool side 78. When I turn on the 75w red on the cold side the ground temp raises to 97 but I dim down to 95 and the air temps rise to both 85.

During all this humidity stays around 40-50% without mist and 60-70 with misting 3 times a day.

---

ok if your surface temps are good, then those should be ok for ambient air temp. my bad.

humidity is a little bit low in general but misting is a good idea. sounds like its ok. something easier for you would be to make it a humid-hide that stays around 70% in it.

i would say picky eating is due to stress, gets some hides or make some your self there are some great ideas and how-to posts on here. i bought one for a humid-hide and made another out of a chip dip container lined with nylon sock (un used) and have a hole cut in the top slightly larger then the thickets part of my BP. then i burry it half deep in my substrate and its good to go.

one thing you could try is to offer a different color food item. ive never had luck with some colors until recently when i presented for 2h until he was pacing and flicking his toung trying very hard to find the food.

Is this better now over all? My humidity is around 65% after misting an hr ago and has not changed. Ambient temp on hot side is a constant 85 with a ground temp of 93. Ambient temp of cool side is 80 with a ground temp of 84...This is his daytime temps, not sure of nite yet.

I also took out the half log, added 2 hides, some ground cover for hiding while moving and to help with humidity. Left the previous climbing log in due to it helping to take up more ground, it also has moss in the hollowed part next to the water dish to have a humid-hide.


http://api.photoshop.com/home_2345cc...62a625394b1722
http://api.photoshop.com/home_2345cc...7e0ef339d0a29c
http://api.photoshop.com/home_2345cc...4b408ea4b6e7a9
http://api.photoshop.com/home_2345cc...974c34cb59748d

Looks good :D

lookes very good.

has he stopped pacing? he should feel more secure in that for sure

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JeffJ

lookes very good.

has he stopped pacing? he should feel more secure in that for sure

---

He paced for a few and then found the hide box and hasnt come out since lol.

I've leave him in there alone for a week before trying to feed again...unless anyone thinks I can try sooner since he hasn't eaten for a month now?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Wrongside

He paced for a few and then found the hide box and hasnt come out since lol.

I've leave him in there alone for a week before trying to feed again...unless anyone thinks I can try sooner since he hasn't eaten for a month now?

---

hiding is good, i would offer, try presenting for a good hour then offer for an hour if he rejects. try again in a week.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JeffJ

hiding is good, i would offer, try presenting for a good hour then offer for an hour if he rejects. try again in a week.

---

...What do you mean by presenting? I have a hopper mouse on hand right now, small for his larger size but he hasnt been taking any lately.

I also have 2 F/T in the freezer and they are med mice

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Wrongside

...What do you mean by presenting? I have a hopper mouse on hand right now, small for his larger size but he hasnt been taking any lately.

I also have 2 F/T in the freezer and they are med mice

---

i take a margarine dish and put it upside down over top of my food item on the screen lid of my tank. the sent seeps in and after about an hour the snake will leave his hide and start searching for the source when my lil guy does that i remove the food item and give it to him and he takes it every time.

another quick Q...should my ground probe be on top or under the subtrait?

under.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Kaorte

under.

---

Guess I need to buy a thermostat now :(

On top temp is 93...under it says 103...This is his hide

Yep. If you want a quick fix you can get a dimmer from the home depot.
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...10000003+90401

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Kaorte

Yep. If you want a quick fix you can get a dimmer from the home depot.
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...10000003+90401

---

The UTH is already on a Repti-Temp Rheostat and turned all the way down as far as possible

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Wrongside

The UTH is already on a Repti-Temp Rheostat and turned all the way down as far as possible

---

barrow some ones Thermal IR Temperature gun and take a 100% accurate surface temperature reading. also the heat lamp could account for that extra substrate temperature if the Heat pad is already on the lowest rheostat setting. i dont even deal with probes i take my UTH temp with the IR Thermal gun, i just move the substrate take the temp and done. the temperature of the heat pad directly (news paper is over the glass) will be what the substrate temperature is unless u have a few inches in there. mine is only an inch thick.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JeffJ

i take a margarine dish and put it upside down over top of my food item on the screen lid of my tank. the sent seeps in and after about an hour the snake will leave his hide and start searching for the source when my lil guy does that i remove the food item and give it to him and he takes it every time.

---

I left a mouse wrapped in a paper towel on top of my BPs cage one, and he came out directly under it and stood up like he was a cobra! My boa does the same thing every time the cat gets on top of his.

I'm no expert, but just an idea... those dimensions are of a 55gallon aren't they? From what I have read on these forums, the bigger it is, the more it could stress out your BP, especially a little guy.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Enser54

I left a mouse wrapped in a paper towel on top of my BPs cage one, and he came out directly under it and stood up like he was a cobra! My boa does the same thing every time the cat gets on top of his.

I'm no expert, but just an idea... those dimensions are of a 55gallon aren't they? From what I have read on these forums, the bigger it is, the more it could stress out your BP, especially a little guy.

---

my BP gets on his stick and gets right up to under the dish with the food in it. thats how i know he is ready to go.

yes it is a large tank thats why we suggested filling it with obstacles and hides for the snake to feel safe as i dont think replacing it was in his list of options. the more crowded it is the safer the BP will feel.

Update:

Temps are all perfect, and my ball finally took a hopper mouse last nite.

It was odd cause I presented a F/T mouse and he came out of his hide looking for it but would not take it from the thongs or when put down. Completely ignored it but was definately searching for food. I put the hopper in and boom, gone in minutes.


I'll give him until next weekend and try feeding a rat since he is rather large for a hopper.

Thanks for the help!

i use half logs but i burry them in to the substract so it looks like a natural cave and i take them and cut 45deg. angles on the back to put in a corner. so its all dark in side there

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JeffJ

my BP gets on his stick and gets right up to under the dish with the food in it. thats how i know he is ready to go.

yes it is a large tank thats why we suggested filling it with obstacles and hides for the snake to feel safe as i dont think replacing it was in his list of options. the more crowded it is the safer the BP will feel.

---

Sometimes crowding it and filling it up isn't enough.
If the animal still does not eat and is not comfortable, lower the cage size to a 10 or 15 gallon. 20 gallons are often used for adults, and anything much bigger than that can be stressful in itself.

If it is a 55 gallon cage, that is definitely much too large and will cost more to regulate heat and humidity than it's worth. Cleaning it will also be a trip and substrate use will be out the window.
:gj: