Should I move the hide to the cool side?

Do you have your hide placed directly above your Under Tank Heater?

I fear this will burn my snake, but I am not sure if I am supposed to have his hide on the cool side or not. Would you recommend this?

Please help, I would like to take care of this today so he will not get burnt!

Thank you

BPs should have two hides ... one on the warm side and one on the cool side, so they dont have to choose between the security of a hide and the temperature they want to be

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mckittie

Do you have your hide placed directly above your Under Tank Heater?

I fear this will burn my snake, but I am not sure if I am supposed to have his hide on the cool side or not. Would you recommend this?

Please help, I would like to take care of this today so he will not get burnt!

Thank you

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2 hides one on the cool side & one on the warm side. The UTH MUST be controlled by a thermostat (to regulate temps - so dont burns happen) or at least a rheostat (dimmer). An uncontrolled UTH can reach temps of 120 degrees or more. You need to get something to control it ASAP.

Hope this helps.

*EDIT* also you will need a digital thermometer with a probe so you will know what the temps are. Place the probe over the UTH inside the tank. Sorry almost forgot to mention that.

You can pick up an inexpensive one at WalMart for around $12 (I believe the brand is Accurite) These also measure humidity so you won't need to purchase an additional digital hygrometer (sp??)

I currently have my thermometer mounted near the top of the tank. Should I move it closer to the base as it may have more accurate temp readings based on substrate temps?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lenastorms

2 hides one on the cool side & one on the warm side. The UTH MUST be controlled by a thermostat (to regulate temps - so dont burns happen) or at least a rheostat (dimmer). An uncontrolled UTH can reach temps of 120 degrees or more. You need to get something to control it ASAP.

Hope this helps.

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I do have a thermostat

http://www.zoomed.com/Library/Produc...s/rheostat.jpg





I have it on high, but the temp is still on the low side. Does the thermostat limit the heaters power even on the high setting?


Edit: I have a rheostat!!! Not a thermostat!!!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mckittie

I do have a thermostat

http://www.zoomed.com/Library/Produc...s/rheostat.jpg


I have it on high, but the temp is still on the low side. Does the thermostat limit the heaters power even on the high setting?

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That's a rheostat.

With a thermostat you actually set the temperature and a probe measures the temp and the tstat then adjusts the amount of power being supplied accordingly.

You should have your temp guage place directly on the bottom of the tanks/tub in the hide (due to them spending the most time in it) and get your temps to about 92-95deg on the hot side... 80-82deg on the cold side. Make sure you have it reading right against the bottom of the enclosure (meaning under the substrate) since snakes will push the substrate out of the way usually to get to the bottom of the enclosure...

you should be investing in something like this:

http://spyderrobotics.com/products/herpstat.html

I've been using one with great success... takes the worry out and monitors the temps and adjusts as needed automatically.

Hope that helps,
Colin

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mckittie

I do have a thermostat

http://www.zoomed.com/Library/Produc...s/rheostat.jpg


I have it on high, but the temp is still on the low side. Does the thermostat limit the heaters power even on the high setting?

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OK you have a rheostat...that will work. If its set on high your UTH is probably close to 120 degrees. Do you have a digital thermometer with a probe? Or an analog one? You will need the one with the probe so you will know what the temp is above the UTH. An analog thermometer will not tell you that. They are inaccurate anyways even for ambient temps and pretty much useless.

I would also add that you should have a degital temp gun. They are not that expensive and they are invaluable at giving you percise surface temps.

Do you agree with the following?

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You will need to retain your ball python at temperatures between 82 - 88 degrees during the day (14 - 16 hours) never going over 90 in basking areas, and 72 - 78 degrees at night.

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no
hot side 94
cool side about 80-84

The top of my habitat is screened. Should I cover this to maintain temps or just leave it screened?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mckittie

The top of my habitat is screened. Should I cover this to maintain temps or just leave it screened?

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Covering it will help maintain a higher humidity. BPs need 50%-60% humidity. Covering it will also help maintain a higher air temp. Make sure you leave some uncovered for air! :P

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mckittie

Do you agree with the following?

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:colbert: Nope not at all

Look THIS over, it should help a lot ;)

And THIS, oh and THIS might be helpful too :D

I think that should cover it for now.

Can't wait to see pics of your BP :P

Maybe that brand rheostat is just a bit crappy because it does not heat up well at all. Even on high I have to keep a red bulb going just to get an airtemp of 84F.

Edit: Am I wrong in thinking the UTH should be the primary heat source?

The UTH can be a primary heat source depending on the external environment.

Rheostats work best if the external environment does not fluctuate more than a degree or two.

I would suggest a thermostat, digital thermometer/hygrometer, and two hides :gj:

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Originally Posted by goldenfoxs

no
hot side 94
cool side about 80-84

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In my humble opinion. 94 is too hot. 91-92.5 seem to get the best results for me.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by quikcolin

You should have your temp guage place directly on the bottom of the tanks/tub in the hide (due to them spending the most time in it) and get your temps to about 92-95deg on the hot side... 80-82deg on the cold side. Make sure you have it reading right against the bottom of the enclosure (meaning under the substrate) since snakes will push the substrate out of the way usually to get to the bottom of the enclosure...

you should be investing in something like this:

http://spyderrobotics.com/products/herpstat.html

I've been using one with great success... takes the worry out and monitors the temps and adjusts as needed automatically.

Hope that helps,
Colin

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Yes! Get it! Do it now.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Skoalbasher

Yes! Get it! Do it now.

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I second that.

I have a Pro and a regular herpstat; best tstats ever. Dion, the owner, is also very helpful and will help you with whatever.