New Baby Ball Python Owner. Behavior problems

Just got a baby ball python today and he was curled up into a ball for a long time but then came out and started slithering around his tank and seemed to get more comfortable. Then pretty much every time I open his or her cage they strike at me very hard. I move my hand because of course I do not want to get bit.

My snake seemed so friendly at first now I'm considering returning it.

Any help?


Thank you
:banana:

Hi
What kind of enclosure do you have for your python? What are his/her temps on the hot side and cool side? How many Hides do you have set up? This info is important to help you to determine why your snake is so defensive.

he is probably pretty stressed out and getting used to its new enviroment, make sure you have all the required stuff to make him feel safe.

Hello

I am also a new ball python owner and the best thing to do is leave your snake alone for a week or so.

Let him/her get relaxed in his new environment and make sure he eats once before you try to handle

Hope this helps
dave

Well, you say he is a baby. Babies tend to be more defensive and scared than thier adult counter parts. The striking may fade when he gets older and/or gets settled in. Also, a bite from a baby is nothing to be scared of :)

You need to let the little guy alone for at least a week, so that he can acclimate to his new invironment

BP are wild animals and when they feel threaten they sometimes strike.

While it is not common it can happen and if you are considering returning your BP because of it, this might suggest that you are not entirely ready to own a snake yet.

Owning a snake and expecting him not to strike or bite is like owning a puppy and expect him to never have an accident on the carpet……………….not realistic ;)

Give him time he need to adjust to his new surrounding, leave him alone for a week or more (NO HANDLING) than offer food, than if you are successful handle him every other day in moderation.

In the mean time make sure that your husbandry is optimum http://www.ball-pythons.net/modules/...warticle&id=59

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Originally Posted by mckittie

My snake seemed so friendly at first now I'm considering returning it.

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If by returning it you mean you got it from a pet store, then I, with my limited experience, would suggest you do just that.

Find a local breeder or find a local reptile show that has breeders and get yourself a different snake. I would suggest you do some reading about BP's in general and their care.

Life's too short. Good luck.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mckittie

Just got a baby ball python today and he was curled up into a ball for a long time but then came out and started slithering around his tank and seemed to get more comfortable. Then pretty much every time I open his or her cage they strike at me very hard. I move my hand because of course I do not want to get bit.

My snake seemed so friendly at first now I'm considering returning it.

Any help?


Thank you
:banana:

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-Smiles.- I just picked up an 08 het. albino female from Adam Wysocki(8BallPythons). I was terribly impatient, and I opened her box just to see her. She struck at me right out of the box, but you know what? After coming home, getting used to her enclosure for a couple weeks, feeding three times already(I've had her three weeks), and shedding, she's been really great for me. She's almost cuddly like my big female. You've just got to give your snake the time to calm down, get used to their environment, and generally chill from the stressful move.

Do you have pictures of your enclosure? Temps? Humidity? Pictures of the snake(if possible), where you got him/her from? We want to help. You've just got to give us more information.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JohnNJ

If by returning it you mean you got it from a pet store, then I, with my limited experience, would suggest you do just that.

Find a local breeder or find a local reptile show that has breeders and get yourself a different snake. I would suggest you do some reading about BP's in general and their care.

Life's too short. Good luck.

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Why? If the animal is just stressed out right now, why would you suggest returning it? The OP has had it what 1/2 a day and you are advising that they should return it?

The animal has not even had a chance to acclimate to its enclosure and the OP is already reaching into a baby that sees them as a predator while it doesn't even know its enclosure yet to know where it can hide.

I don't agree with that mentality at all - just my $.02

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Originally Posted by rabernet

Why? If the animal is just stressed out right now, why would you suggest returning it?

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Because I've seen several people hammered here for going to a pet store instead of a breeder. Here is someone that has an opportunity to correct that situation before becoming too attached. He'll most likely get a lot of great info from the breeder also.

Why would he not return it if he's uncomfortable around it? You're now dealing with a stressed out snake and a stressed out owner. My opinion is that it's time to move on.

JohnNJ

PS - No fair editing after I've already started my reply.

Babies are far more nippy than adults, let them settle in. Don't worry about it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JohnNJ

Because I've seen several people hammered here for going to a pet store instead of a breeder. Here is someone that has an opportunity to correct that situation before becoming too attached. He'll most likely get a lot of great info from the breeder also.

Why would he not return it if he's uncomfortable around it? You're now dealing with a stressed out snake and a stressed out owner. My opinion is that it's time to move on.

JohnNJ

PS - No fair editing after I've already started my reply.

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That doesn't make much sense. He's already got them, why go through the trouble of returning them, then trying to find a local breeder that may or may not have any available?
They are babies doing what a lot of baby ball pythons do, let them settle in and get used to everything. I bought a pastel from Greg Graziani and it tried to nail me every chance it got for awhile. Should I have returned it? No, I let it acclimate and now it's fine. Same goes for a spider and butter I have, they did the same thing as babies, now they are as sweet as puppies.

if you are a snake owner you will get bit sometime somehow and it will probably be your fault. Get use to the idea and dont be scared because it doesnt hurt that bad.

Like everyone said, he is probably just stressed. When I get new babies about 30% seem to do that for a little while till the get comfortable. I notice that they usually dont strike to bite but more as more of a warning to stay away.

If you must handle it, find a towel and cover him first. Its less stressfull for the snake and a little safer for you.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JohnNJ

Because I've seen several people hammered here for going to a pet store instead of a breeder. Here is someone that has an opportunity to correct that situation before becoming too attached. He'll most likely get a lot of great info from the breeder also.

Why would he not return it if he's uncomfortable around it? You're now dealing with a stressed out snake and a stressed out owner. My opinion is that it's time to move on.

JohnNJ

PS - No fair editing after I've already started my reply.

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So if he purchased from a breeder and was uncomfortable around it, you'd also suggest that he return it?

What's done is done - I think a more appropriate response would be to help him work through WHY his new baby is acting stressed - which is perfectly normal for a first day home with a new owner bothering him and not allowing him time to get settled.

My snake resides in this

http://www.seapets.co.uk/gallery/669160.jpg
( From internet not an actual picture )

Wow you guys are quick and I appreciate the responses. I have zero knowledge of snakes, but now realize you've got to work with them to get them more comfortable and trusting.

I did buy my snake at a local shop and when holding the snake in the shop it remained curled up in my hand. I mistakenly took that as the snake being friendly, When in reality it was just scared. I am going to keep the snake and work with it.

I just got in and had to change it's water because it went to the bathroom in it's dish and he/she just sat up in the corner next to the heat lamp. I guess that's a bit of progress.

I do plan on giving it atleast a few days of alone time to see if that helps at all.

Any other advice you can give me would be more than helpful and thank you

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mckittie

My snake resides in this

http://www.seapets.co.uk/gallery/669160.jpg
( From internet not an actual picture )

Wow you guys are quick and I appreciate the responses. I have zero knowledge of snakes, but now realize you've got to work with them to get them more comfortable and trusting.

I did buy my snake at a local shop and when holding the snake in the shop it remained curled up in my hand. I mistakenly took that as the snake being friendly, When in reality it was just scared. I am going to keep the snake and work with it.

I just got in and had to change it's water because it went to the bathroom in it's dish and he/she just sat up in the corner next to the heat lamp. I guess that's a bit of progress.

I do plan on giving it atleast a few days of alone time to see if that helps at all.

Any other advice you can give me would be more than helpful and thank you

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What're the temps? Humidity? I'm not very familiar with these enclosures, so I'm not sure of what's normal. What's your substrate?

I'd leave the new kid alone for at least a week, outside of normal enclosure cleaning then, after a week, I'd feed him.

im glad you decided to keep him and dont worry in no time he will be settled and wont mind being handled. check out this caresheet for proper care. :gj:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mckittie

My snake resides in this

http://www.seapets.co.uk/gallery/669160.jpg
( From internet not an actual picture )

Wow you guys are quick and I appreciate the responses. I have zero knowledge of snakes, but now realize you've got to work with them to get them more comfortable and trusting.

I did buy my snake at a local shop and when holding the snake in the shop it remained curled up in my hand. I mistakenly took that as the snake being friendly, When in reality it was just scared. I am going to keep the snake and work with it.

I just got in and had to change it's water because it went to the bathroom in it's dish and he/she just sat up in the corner next to the heat lamp. I guess that's a bit of progress.

I do plan on giving it atleast a few days of alone time to see if that helps at all.

Any other advice you can give me would be more than helpful and thank you

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If you read over our caresheet provided here
http://www.ball-pythons.net/modules/...warticle&id=59

... we can certainly help answer any questions you have.

The things I consider the absolute most important aspect is making sure your husbandry is spot on. Make sure your hot spot temps are correct (90-94), your air temps are correct (80-84), and your humidity is good. (50-60%)

If you need help maintaining those important aspects, ask and many will help you find ways to get to the optimum requirements.

Remember, leave him completely alone for a full 7 days, and only check on him to refill water or check his husbandry. No handling!!!

Good luck, and please, work with the snake for his NEEDS over your own WANTS. ;)

http://www.f3images.com/IMD/250/ES70051/ES70051_99.jpg

Looks a bit on the redish side though.

you need to go over the caresheets and then get back to us with any problems. use the search function so as we dont have to keep answering the same questions 10x a day. get back to us when you get it all set up.

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Originally Posted by hawaiianice99

you need to go over the caresheets and then get back to us with any problems. use the search function so as we dont have to keep answering the same questions 10x a day. get back to us when you get it all set up.

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Just because you dont want to answer the same question ten times a day does not mean you get to tell others what they can and cannot post. Someone will always answer, even if you don't. ;)

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Originally Posted by littleindiangirl

Just because you dont want to answer the same question ten times a day does not mean you get to tell others what they can and cannot post. Someone will always answer, even if you don't. ;)

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I'll always answer, hon. -Smiles.- I love helping the new members out as much as possible. It's important to help educate them.

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They do well with ambient room light, so long as the light is not constant and some sort of day/night schedule is provided. Excessive lighting can induce high stress levels in these nocturnal creatures.

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I have a reflective lamp on top of the cage with a 40watt "Regular" bulb I guess it would be called. Should I shut off the light at any given point even though it is the main heat source?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mckittie

I have a reflective lamp on top of the cage with a 40watt "Regular" bulb I guess it would be called. Should I shut off the light at any given point even though it is the main heat source?

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Either get an uth with a thermostat or a red bulb.

i recommend you get a under the tank heat pad and not use a light for the main heat source, you might not even need the light if you get the right temps with the UTH pad. ball pythons are nocturnal so dont leave the light on at night but if thats your only heat right now u might need it.

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Originally Posted by Melicious

Either get an uth with a thermostat or a red bulb.

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This is a UTH (Under tank heater)
http://www.reptilesupply.com/product...roducts_id=489

They need to be controlled to avoid burning your snake by either Rheostat...
http://www.reptilesupply.com/product...re=accessories

Or better yet, a thermostat....
http://reptilebasics.com/Thermostats-p-1-c-250.html

No, they are not cheap, but are probably the most important tool you'll buy for your snake.

Not to be confused with a thermoMETER, which measure temps.
http://reptilebasics.com/Thermometers-p-1-c-253.html

This is what I have, and it also measure humidity. All three readings on one screen
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i2...y/ps-00891.jpg

Yeah looks like I'm out of the luck for tonight, The bulb shall stay til tomorrow. Though it is my only option for tonight, Is this going to cause any problems?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mckittie

Yeah looks like I'm out of the luck for tonight, The bulb shall stay til tomorrow. Though it is my only option for tonight, Is this going to cause any problems?

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I think that for a night or two your snake will survive. -Shrugs.-

you sure?

:snake:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mckittie

you sure?

:snake:

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Before I moved to tubs and racks, I had my snakes under white bulbs for a year. I think you'll be fine for a night or two. My suggestion goes further, though when I say that if you want to buy another snake, you might want to setup the enclosure BEFORE you buy 'em. -Grins.- I made the same mistake at the beginning.

he should be ok, just dont delay to much on getting all the required stuff for him.

Not to scare you or anything, but in all honestly if the temps/humidity are too high/low and the snake doesn't have enough places to hide, he most likely won't eat because ball pythons are extremely shy snakes and in general don't quite have the strong feeding response of a snake like a red tail boa (which has a very strong appetite). Keeping the temperatures/humidity correct in a tank also isn't easy. While using a bulb can maintain heat, it can dry out the cage to the point of 20% humidity or less. Using an under-tank heater will help maintain the warm spot (about 90-94 ºF), but the air temperature and humidity of the tank will be exactly what the room the snake is in is currently at. My advice, if you don't feel like switching your snake to a tub setup (like a sterilite bin. Sounds crazy but is actually really easy to maintain temperatures and humidity. Just poke a few holes in with a soldering iron or a drill for proper air flow), cover most of the screen lid with something.. enough to keep air temperatures and humidity somewhat, but not so much that no fresh air can circulate through the cage. And as others have said, try not to bother him until he's eaten for you.

Good luck! Once settled in, ball pythons are awesome pets.

I wanted to get all set up first, but saw this snake and knew I wanted it. Did originally plan on waiting it out for alittle while longer.


He/she does have a decent place to hide. I bought a little cave like hut with a doorway type entrance and a place to go under to get in. Looks like the Flinstones house minus windows!

The shop said the snake ate recently, So I plan on holding out til this upcoming Friday or Saturday. I did receive instructions to put him/her into a separate bin while feeding because the snake may see your hand as a food supply or something like that. If that's true or not?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mckittie

I wanted to get all set up first, but saw this snake and knew I wanted it. Did originally plan on waiting it out for alittle while longer.


He/she does have a decent place to hide. I bought a little cave like hut with a doorway type entrance and a place to go under to get in. Looks like the Flinstones house minus windows!

The shop said the snake ate recently, So I plan on holding out til this upcoming Friday or Saturday. I did receive instructions to put him/her into a separate bin while feeding because the snake may see your hand as a food supply or something like that. If that's true or not?

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I feed all of my snakes in their normal enclosures. Scent the room before you offer your prey item. How to do that?

http://ball-pythons.net/modules/Sect...warticle&id=60

My only addition to that scenting is that I would use tongs/hemostats and hold the rat/mouse by the nape of the neck. Don't touch the prey item at all.

This morning I go into the spare room where the snake is kept and it actually moved around quite a bit from where I last saw it last night. It was sitting in it's water and drinking it. Seemed a ton more mellow. I kneeled next to the cage and it did not seem to even consider striking.

I am definitly a believer in alone time now. Just 8 - 10 hours alone and I've seen a major improvement with it's comfort level.

Again I do not plan on attempting to handle til this upcoming weekend.


Feeding question...

The store clerk said the snake ate recently but could not specify, Should I just wait for the 1 week from purchase mark to feed or try it out mid week?

As far as the nippy goes we have had a couple that were a little nippy at first and they got over it. We just got a Yellow Belly over Christmas and we had origionally named it Mellow Yellow. Well we had a little photo shoot with him yesterday and he bit me around around 9 or more times during the whole ordeal. This is probably the most aggresive guy we have seen. He is now called Hell Spawn. We are going to give it another week or two of not being handled and try it again. He is housed like all the rest of our ball pythons, so I don't think the environment has anything to do with it. Some snakes are more prone to it then others. I'd also rather have him bite me to pieces while he weighs less than 500 grams than have him decide to bite me to pieces at 1000 grams. :)

Hi! Glad you're going to keep him and work with him!

A few things - several people have linked you to our caresheet and that's an excellent tool to use to make sure you get him set up properly. I particularly like the "Why won't my snake eat?" section - to help you rule out each reason.

He is going to need a second hide - and hides need to be SNUG and tight. If he continues to hang out in his water dish - it could indicate a few things. One could be mites - they will soak to drown mites and give themselves some relief. Another could be that the hide doesn't feel secure to them, and when they are in the water dish, they can feel something touching them on all sides (the water) - they don't realize you can still see them.

Hides need to be small and SNUG - they want to feel something touching them on all sides and on top. If he's really little, a plastic flower pot saucer with an entrance soldered out is great (you can get it at Walmart, Lowes, Home Depot for under $1). If he's a bit bigger, many of us use plastic cereal bowls from the Dollar Store with entrances soldered out and turned upside down to make the hide. I can provide pictures if that helps you visualise.

As for feeding - it IS recommended to wait a full week for them to have a week to acclimate before offering food. AND - if he refuses, don't offer food again for another week. Offering food too frequently can actually work against you in your attempts to feed.

Ask the store if they fed live or pre-killed or f/t - you want to stick with what he's been eating to start. I happen to feed live to all of my crew.

The idea that they will be less likely to view you as prey if you feed in a separate enclosure is a myth. You don't smell like prey (if you wash your hands after handling prey items), and you are probably going into the enclosure for other things than just feeding (changing water, spot cleaning, handling, etc) - so they don't think that every time you open the enclosure that you're going to feed.

I feed all of mine in their own enclosure - that also gives them the security of their hides to hunt from.

Belly heat aids in digestion, and is recommended as your primary heat source, since ball pythons are nocturnal and do not require special lighting.

I use the digital thermometer/hygrometer that's pictured in Connie's post and recommend you get one too - it's absolutely necessary to KNOW your temps and not guess at them. And the stick on dial's are junk (and usually cost more than the digital one you get from Walmart).

Continue to ask questions, that's how we learn! And congrats on your new baby!

The snake came out of it's water dish and is now sitting up top near the heat source just kind of looking around at things. Like I posted earlier seems a lot more relaxed. Going today to get a temporary fix by getting a red bulb at petsmart. I'm just a bit broke this week. I get paid on Monday and will buy one of those under the tank heaters.

The snake does have a rock hut thing, I don't think it's too big. If you take a look at the picture of the cage I posted earlier it is that size and the rock hut fits in there with room to spare. The snake just sits on it though, Haven't seen it go in.

It's got a small entrance in front and a small crawl space in back like a little cave.

Haha Today I am not too afraid of him. I bought some gloves last night at kmart for 3 bucks that are pretty sturdy for when it is time to begin working with him. Just in case ;)

I am also going to buy one of these

http://www.petsmart.com/product/inde...52554#prodTab1

If the humidity is low how do I increase it and vice versa?

EDIT:


Also for the UTH I am not sure which size to get. Should I be trying to cover the entire base of my small habitat or just a specific section?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mckittie

I am also going to buy one of these

http://www.petsmart.com/product/inde...52554#prodTab1

If the humidity is low how do I increase it and vice versa?

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Save your money and buy the AccuRite pictured above. You can get it at Walmart for $12 where they sell their indoor/outdoor thermometers.

It measures indoor and outdoor temps (warm and cool side temps) AND humidity in one device. You set it up in the cool side of the enclosure (indoor temps) and run the probe to the warm side and set it on top of the substrate inside the hide (outdoor temps). Since my snakes like to turn it over by crawling on it, I velcro'd it to the inside of the enclosure at the ground level (you don't want to mount it high, because you're trying to measure ground temps, where your snake actually resides).

If humidity is too low, mist your enclosure, if it's too high, watch for it to come back down, and get a smaller water dish so that there's less water surface to evaporate.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mckittie

EDIT:


Also for the UTH I am not sure which size to get. Should I be trying to cover the entire base of my small habitat or just a specific section?

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Only half of the enclosure - you want to have a thermal gradiant - a warm and cool side of the enclosure. You'll also want to have a thermostat to control it on. UTH's can get very hot and burn your snake if they aren't regulated by a thermostat. Also, make sure your substrate is an inch or less thick so that the heat can penetrate the substrate.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rabernet

Save your money and buy the AccuRite pictured above. You can get it at Walmart for $12 where they sell their indoor/outdoor thermometers.

It measures indoor and outdoor temps (warm and cool side temps) AND humidity in one device. You set it up in the cool side of the enclosure (indoor temps) and run the probe to the warm side and set it on top of the substrate inside the hide (outdoor temps). Since my snakes like to turn it over by crawling on it, I velcro'd it to the inside of the enclosure at the ground level (you don't want to mount it high, because you're trying to measure ground temps, where your snake actually resides).

If humidity is too low, mist your enclosure, if it's too high, watch for it to come back down, and get a smaller water dish so that there's less water surface to evaporate.

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$30 dollars for a hygrometer! Holy cow, save your money and buy what I pictured before. You can buy 2 Acurites for the price of one hygrometer from petsmart, and the acurites measure all 3 instead of just one like Rabernet pointed out. :gj: