Blasted MN winters..... [humidity problems]

So the humidity was perfect for my BP... Until the first snow fall and the dramtic weather drop/change. I currently have a damp cloth at all times wrapped around the middle bar of my 55 gallon tank(which really helped the humidity in the fall), I've put some spagnium(i think it's called) moss, which helped at first when we couldn't get the humidity right, I also periodically spray the edges of the tank... Now the humidity it way below, and she's going through a shed cycle. Having a rather hard time trying to get the humidity up. Any other suggestions? :please:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Jessi3825

So the humidity was perfect for my BP... Until the first snow fall and the dramtic weather drop/change. I currently have a damp cloth at all times wrapped around the middle bar of my 55 gallon tank(which really helped the humidity in the fall), I've put some spagnium(i think it's called) moss, which helped at first when we couldn't get the humidity right, I also periodically spray the edges of the tank... Now the humidity it way below, and she's going through a shed cycle. Having a rather hard time trying to get the humidity up. Any other suggestions? :please:

---

Could we please get some pictures, please?

Sure thing! Pictures are below... The temp/humidity when I took the pics is/was.. 92F 38%(warm side) 82F 52%(cool side). I have plastic wrap and tin foil on the top of the cage(besides where the heat lamp is) to help keep the heat in.


Overall setup
The cloth, damp
The moss
Section of warm side


We recently add some of the foilage of the leaves, their fake, but we figure it'll help her feel more comforable. We'll end up buy more, I'm sure.

Do you have a UTH? Ball pythons prefer belly heat and the heat lamps can suck up a lot of humidity!


I'm from WI so I know what you're going through!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by python.princess

Do you have a UTH?

---

Oh yeah, I have a large UTH for the warm side. It definally did its job before I got the snake in early fall, but obviously I had to get the heat lamp :snake:

The humidity doesn't really have to constantly be perfect. When we (Python.princess and I) have a snake in shed, we just make sure to mist the cage a few times per day, once per day for the snakes in rack systems.

Also, cover as much of your screen top as possible on the tank, you're going to lose a lot of humidity just through the screen top, and i'd personally remove the heat lamp. It'll just suck out any humidity in the tank, counter productive IMHO and with a correctly controlled UTH you shouldn't need a heat lamp. Otherwise what you can do is create a humid hide. If it's for an adult...dampen a bunch of Sphagnum moss and then put an overturned cat litter pan with an enterance cut on top of that, it should hold humidity well enough during the shed cycle to help aid the snake.

And another recommendation, for a snake that size, he could probably do better off in a smaller enclosure for one, it is hard enough to control the temperatures in an aquarium that large this time of year. Otherwise add lots of hides, make em snug.

I know what you mean about the humidity, I've got a pump up garden sprayer that I give my tubs a shot with every week in the worst parts of the Winter. That seems to be enough for most of them but I still get a lot of bad sheds. I also agree with the others about getting rid of the heat lamp. Those things really dry the air out a lot.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by python.princess

Ball pythons prefer belly heat

---

That's something I wouldn't agree to, they don't care as long as their ambient temp is right.

Anyway, if there is UTH, the water bowl should be placed on top of it, without any substrate beneath it. That'll heat up the water slightly and increase humidity by up to 15 percentage points. :)

I'm having the same issue although I have a slightly smaller tank and use UTH only. I soak the moss for about 30 mins or longer and put it around the tank and spray it when it dries out to keep humidity up. You don't have to have exactly 70 percent. I've had mine shed in 60 percent.

If I don't have the heat lamp, I tend to not have an accurate temp. It's usually really low. I toyed around with the heat before I even went out and got her. I also have the platic wrap over the screen on the lid, fallowed byt the tin foil to help keep heat and humidity in, which is a big help. As for the humid hide ideas I'll give them a try. She seems to like the heat lamp more then the UTH though. She's always basking in the tree thing under the heat lamp on the branches during the night(if you noticed in the pictures). She seems to be doing well with her shed though. thanks for the sugestions

one option is to downsize the 55g to a 20 gallon long, your snake certainly doesn't need and probably doesn't even want all that space you're providing for its current size.

Less space is easier to heat and easier to maintain humidities, lower ceilings help a ton.

I've always had serious humidity problems in the winter and can't seem to get it above 55% so I bought an extra water dish and cave to cover it. I heard of others doing this platic bins and a cut out hole. I'm surprised how often they soak in that. Before I set myself up with this, I'd soak them in the tub every other day. I tell my wife I'm taking the kids to the beach and they seem to love it.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by python.princess

Do you have a UTH? Ball pythons prefer belly heat and the heat lamps can suck up a lot of humidity!....

---

Nope. I have 6 ball pythons in 6 cages and all are heated by radiant heat panels :) RHP's are awesome as they don't zap humidity, they raise ambient temps (flex watt and UTH's can't), and they are really awesome. Here's how Rich describes the effectiveness of RHP's:

"...RHP's are similar to Ceramic Heat Emitters (CHE) - they both project IR heat into the cage. Unlike CHE's that get very, very hot on their surface, these RHP's maintain temperatures safe to use inside the cage. This Infrared Heat tends to heat objects more than the air, much like the natural sunlight outdoors. This type of heat mimics real sunlight both in the direction it comes from and its penetration into the muscle tissue. IR heat has been shown to have a therapeutic effect on sick and injured animals as well. Your reptiles will spend less time basking and receive a much greater benefit from it. The RHP has been the heat of choice for the bird community for years due to these benefits. We at Reptile Basics Inc want to see the RHP gain this popularity in the reptile field!..."

Here is a link to the RHP FAQ from the Reptile Basics site and from which the above quote was copied: http://www.reptilebasics.com/Radiant...FAQ-sp-11.html

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by starmom

Nope. I have 6 ball pythons in 6 cages and all are heated by radiant heat panels :) RHP's are awesome as they don't zap humidity, they raise ambient temps (flex watt and UTH's can't), and they are really awesome. Here's how Rich describes the effectiveness of RHP's:

---

Honestly RHPs are great for Melamine or PVC style cages that actually hold the heat that they throw off, but on a glass tank those panels would really be inefficient. And without a solid top, you're going to be constantly allowing the heat to escape...again overworking the heat panel. Just not the best choice for this application... I don't know about you, but I choose my heat sources do to the application and their efficiency. ;)

I know what Melanie meant was that, the UTH is a better choice to use than a heat lamp because they aren't going to sap the humidity out of the air.

OP, if you're having problems keeping the temperatures correct in the glass tank, my guess is that it's much too large, or that your UTH is much too small. Instead of worrying about getting that hot spot just right, maybe you could go with two areas of flexwatt heat tape, or an additional UTH on the cool side...run the cool side area your 82-85 and then your hot side heat tape at 90-94. This will help to bring up the all around ambient temperature.

And this time of year, depending on room temps the cage is in, and the poor insulation of the aquarium standalone, it might be wise to tape some foam insulation to the sides and back of the aquarium. It may be unsightly, but it should help to hold those temps more stable.

Hope this helps.

BTW- Do you have probes on your thermometer to tell you what the temp is inside the warm side hide?

I have found that placing wet paper towels under the foil (at the top of your enclosure) to help quite a lot. Easy to replace and you can make it a few layers thick in order for things to stay moist for longer.

I agree a smaller tank would be better. Also, use a thick wet towel (not dripping wet but nice and saturated) on top of the tank. cover as much as possible but don't get to close to the light. Wet it again when needed - probably every day or so. Change it every 3-4 days with a fresh clean one. And No you will not have any "cleanliness" problems from the wet towel. Worked great for me when I had tanks.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jknudson

Honestly RHPs are great for Melamine or PVC style cages that actually hold the heat that they throw off, but on a glass tank those panels would really be inefficient. And without a solid top, you're going to be constantly allowing the heat to escape...again overworking the heat panel. Just not the best choice for this application... I don't know about you, but I choose my heat sources do to the application and their efficiency. ;)...

---

Agreed. And I think that one would make a solid top for a tank from which to affix the RHP :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by starmom

Agreed. And I think that one would make a solid top for a tank from which to affix the RHP :)

---

You still have the problem of a glass tank that does NOT insulate heat well... There is a difference between a 1/2in. PVC tank and a 1/4" glass aquarium... I think even if there were a way to affix a RHP to a glass tank, it's still the least efficient means of heating and expense. Although it might work alright in a heated reptile room.

I use a giant heavy dampened sponge that I place near the heat light next to the water dish. I also use a wet cloth over the side of the tank that doesnt have the lamp. I know that screen tops release more heat and moisture, but that is what I have to negate that issue and its seems to work for me.

Thanks guys.

What I ended up doing was taking a damp hand towel and putting it on the screen at the top of the cage on the warm side. Boosted up the humidity almost right away. Haven't had probablems with it since. :) Thanks for the suggestions.:)