Is this normal for a new ball?

I'm probably making something out of nothing, but my new ball has spent most of its time up on this branch. I mean he looks fine up there and all; he movies around a lot, but I'm wondering if maybe the hot side with the hide is too hot? I'm using the under tank heater on the side with the hide and the guy I bought it from said it should stay around 100 degrees. I dunno. It stayed in the hide last night, so I guess its normal... Humidity is 65, and the temp of the air in the tank is 85ish. I just figured it would spend most of its time in its hide log is all. I need to stop worrying so much. I want to handle it so bad! Do I really have to wait a whole week? It was fine on my arm on the way home from the pet store. :P

http://i34.tinypic.com/2i6yvyf.jpg

100 degrees is a bit to hot. You want to ideally keep it from 92 ish(+/- a degree or 2). If you do not have a thermostat i would suggest getting one to regulate your UTH. Hope this helps.



Tim

Thanks Tim. [= I plan on getting a digital read thermometer with a probe so I can put it right where I need to get the read, but if it shows that the temperature is too high what do I do? Remove the UTH? There is no dial to change the temp.

thermostat is a must have item when using a UTH, 100 degrees can give your snake thermal burn
the johnson controls or the ranco will do wonders for you found here
http://reptilebasics.com/Thermostats-p-1-c-250.html

And no you dont remove the heater, you get a thermostat

Ah, a thermostat. Thanks man! So can you tell me how this regulates the heat of my UTH?

You set it to the desired temp and when the desired temp is reached it shuts of power to the heat source, when it goes slightly below the desired temp it turns the heat source on.

The nicer thermostats (proportional) regulate the wattage going to the heat source. If the temp is too hot is sends less wattage to the heat source and if its too cold it sends more wattage without ever turning the heat source off.

With a single glass tank set up like you have there an on off thermostat will be fine. The johnson controls or the ranco will be fine...

Awesome! Thanks so much for the info!!! =D I need to get me a thermostat.

you place the probe on the inside of the tank on top of the glass of the uth. I know some people do not like to put the probe inside the tank but it is really hard to keep accurate temps with the probe under the tank. I really would suggest getting an infra red parameter, to check your surface temps. If you don't have one they sell them at harbor frieght or tempgun.com. You can use the temp gun to help set your temps.

Interesting... I'll have to look into that. Thanks. [=

with a single tank I dont recommend a temp gun, you can get a digital thermometer at wal mart for $10. People who use temp guns mostly have multiple ball pythons and it makes more sense to buy a temp gun that a $10 thermometer for every enclosure.

Also placing a probe inside the tank can be bad, if the snake urinates or water is spilled on the probe it will tell the thermostat that its a lower temp, this will make the heating pad turn on and get too hot.

I dont want to over load you with info here though, it seems to me like you might be kinda new to this. Once you get a thermometer with a probe and a thermostat we will gladly step you through setting it up on this web site...

Bottom line is you need to get the thermometer and thermostat ASAP...

Thermostat/thermometer, STAT! =D And I'm here to be overloaded with information. I absorb directions very well. (= Thanks guys. So wait, you don't recommend a digital probe thermometer? I have a thermometer already, its just not a probe... if I don't use a probe what will tell me the temp over the UTH?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jorgasm

Thermostat/thermometer, STAT! =D And I'm here to be overloaded with information. I absorb directions very well. (= Thanks guys. So wait, you don't recommend a digital probe thermometer? I have a thermometer already, its just not a probe... if I don't use a probe what will tell me the temp over the UTH?

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Yes a digital thermometer with a probe, you can get them at wal mart for around $10

Okay, but you told me you don't recommend I put the probe in the tank... how will I get a read for the UTH if its not in the tank? Sorry for all the questions, I just want to be clear on your advice.

thermometer probe can go in the tank, I dont recommend a THERMOSTAT probe going in the tank....

Sorry.

Np I know thermometer and thermostat can get confusing lol...

So does everyone wait a week+ before the start handling their ball python(s)?

Usually yes, you want to give them time to adjust to the new enviornment. You will find that if you handle your snake too much it may not eat.

When I was new to this I found it very informative to study the way they live in the wild. They live very secretive lives all by themselves except when mating. This would mean that they dont like to be handled a lot. Even after your snake has adjusted I wouldnt recommend you handle it more than twice a week.

One thing I can recommend about our tank is to get some black construction paper or some aquarium back ground and attach it to 3 sides of your tank (back left and right sides) somtimes snakes wont feel secure with open glass all around them. When I had tanks this helped a lot.

I havnt seen your entire setup, but do you have hides on both the hot and cool sides of your tank?

It seems no information is without a conflicting point of view. The breeder I bought my snake from [via Petco. i guess my mom knows him from high school] told me not to neglect it. That he makes sure his children handle their ball pythons at least 15 minutes every day. Oh, and I do not have two hides, but I do know I need to get another for the cooler side. =] Thanks for looking out for my ball. lol

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jorgasm

So does everyone wait a week+ before the start handling their ball python(s)?

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We sure do ;) Its a rough few days but its best for the snake :rolleyes: I would try feeding it too before handling the first time. And don't handle up to 48 hours after feeding. Gives them a chance to digest. :puke: Regurge isn't pretty :weirdface

Oh yeah....:welcome:

You will find out that people who work at pet stores a lot of times are misinformed. Im not saying they are dumb or anything just that they dont know all of the facts.

I learned to take advise from people who own more ball pythons than the store sells for advice... I personally own 10 ball pythons, and that is nothing.. There are people on this site that own 100's or 1000's of ball pythons and I learned all my facts from them...

I'm sorry if I sounded like I was arguing with you. I was just pointing out the confict in information. =p I don't see how any of you can have so many snakes. That is A LOT of tanks. O_o I mean wow. I don't even want to think of the expense. lol

And Lenastorms, thanks for the welcome! [=

Your snake is fine to be handled as much (with discretion) or as little as you would like. It is captive - handling it more than twice a week is not going to ruin its natural intuition. Always give 24 hours MINIMUM after feeding, and when in shed some bps are a little shy. This is because it is difficult for them so see through the old shed. For now - concentrate on getting your set-up running smoothly, then you can work on handling the snake. This is my summary care info - which can be found in our care sheet in MUCH greater detail.

You are doing very well by asking questions, we are here to help!!

Care sheets - http://www.ball-pythons.net/forums/f...splay.php?f=62


1) To measure your humidity and temperature accurately - Use DIGITAL gauges (stick on gauges are NOT reliable, and a waste of money unfortunately) The most cost friendly device you can purchase is an accurite digital thermometer/hygrometer from wal-mart for $12. The gauge does not have to be this brand, but something with an outdoor/indoor measurement will work because this means the device uses a probe.

2) You need a belly temperature (right on the glass under the hide on one side of the tank) measured by a probe (which comes with something like an accurite) of 90 - 93 degrees. This is where your bp will spend his time digesting and hanging out A LOT. A UTH (under tank heater) costs about $20 at a pet store but MUST have a control.

The safest and most reliable type of control is a thermostat ($70 - $300) but the minimum requirement for a control is something like a lamp dimmer (a rheostat, which is something that must be manually adjusted). Lowes sells piggyback lamp dimmers for about $10.

3) You need a hide on the cooler side of the tank with a belly temperature or ambient temperature in the low 80's. This can be achieved through a heat lamp with the correct wattage bulb, or simply a nice warm room. Keep in mind that the two hides you choose should be the same so your bp feels EQUALLY secure in BOTH hides. Your bp will choose where it feels safest, whether or not it is the correct temperature.

4) HUMIDITY = very important - just as important as temperature. 55-60% humidity is required for proper shedding. For tips on how to achieve this please see the care sheets.

5) A sturdy water dish with fresh water can be put anywhere in the tank, if placed over a UTH (under tank heater) it can help raise the humidity.

6) Substrate can be anything from newspaper or cage liners to aspen. Cedar is TOXIC. Do not use cedar. CYPRESS mulch is good - don't mix it up with cedar.

7) Security - ball pythons are shy. They hide more than 80% of the time so if your snake is hiding a lot, thats a good thing. Cover three sides of your tank with paper/aquarium background - what ever you would like to help your snake feel less exposed. Snug, identical hides are a MUST, one on the cool side one on the hot side.

Awesome, thank you. I actually read this the first night with the ball. =D

Missi- good informative post:gj:

The only thing i disagree with is the handling of the snake, this is a debatable fact though... I know how ball pythons can be picky eaters and go off feed. One of the things in the sticky called "why wont my snake eat" is over handling.

My opinion is if you want a pet that you can play with and handle all the time then a dog or cat is perfect for this...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jorgasm

Awesome, thank you. I actually read this the first night with the ball. =D

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Awesome, keep up the good work and get a control for that UTH ASAP. I would suggest you get a lamp dimmer tomorrow until you get a thermostat. Its always good to have should you need a back-up or use a lamp. Unplug the UTH until you get a control, your snake could easily be burned without a control.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mochelem

Missi- good informative post:gj:

The only thing i disagree with is the handling of the snake, this is a debatable fact though... I know how ball pythons can be picky eaters and go off feed. One of the things in the sticky called "why wont my snake eat" is over handling.

My opinion is if you want a pet that you can play with and handle all the time then a dog or cat is perfect for this...

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Picky eating would be another issue IMO. If you recognize a problem, you then evaluate what is causing the problem I.E a snake that is not comfortable being handled constantly (discretion...).

But I can see where you could make the point why wait until a problem comes up to solve it. I do know many people that handle their bps nightly with no feeding issues or behavioral issues. But yes- debatable indeed. I handle twice a week personally, simply because thats all I have time for.

Okay, I just felt the area where the UTH is at, and there is no way in hell that it is hot enough to burn the snake. But I will definitely get the digital read thermometers and possibly a light dimmer tomorrow, because the cool side is a little hot, according to my crappy [oops!] stick on gauge. =p

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jorgasm

Okay, I just felt the area where the UTH is at, and there is no way in hell that it is hot enough to burn the snake. But I will definitely get the digital read thermometers and possibly a light dimmer tomorrow, because the cool side is a little hot, according to my :cens0r::cens0r::cens0r::cens0r:ty stick on gauge. =p

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Keep in mind, you are 97 degrees. What feels Hot to you, must be warmer than 97 degrees. That means what feels warmer than your hand could be over 100 - which is too hot.

On top of that - UTHs are unstable because electricity fluctuations in your home increase and decrease the temp of the UTH. I have tested this theory and at times my uncontrolled UTH would sit around 100, at other times it would reach as high as 115. Not worth the risk.

Point taken. [=

Just remember that trying to feel heat is hard, your body temp is 98.6 degrees and this is too hot for a snake. Make sure you get an accurate read on the actual temp...

I will definitely get a more accurate [digital read] thermometer tomorrow, for both sides. I'm worried about turning the UTH off though... won't it be too cold for my ball? o.O

Do you have a lamp? He will be fine until tomorrow if you keep the tank in the 80's.

I do have a lamp. [= So should I move his hide to the side with lamp, if I turn off the UTH?

Yes it will be too cold, I wouldnt recommend turning it off. But get a thermometer as soon as you can. Like tommorow. If the temps are too high get either a rheostat or a thermostat quickly...

More conflicting opinions! haha

you both were faster than me at posting, if you have a lamp and can keep temp in the 80's it will be fine for now.. Dont turn off heat all together though... Sorry for confusion

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jorgasm

I do have a lamp. [= So should I move his hide to the side with lamp, if I turn off the UTH?

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Yes, and while your at it tomorrow pick him up a second matching hide;) If you can't get a second of the same hide, buy two plastic bowls form the dollar store and cut a hole in each:)

Will do. Thanks guys and gals. [=

Quick question, I should get a rheostat for both my lamp and my UTH correct?

Shopping list:

*second identical hide
*2 rheostats
*2 digital thermometers

Sound good?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mochelem

with a single tank I dont recommend a temp gun, you can get a digital thermometer at wal mart for $10. People who use temp guns mostly have multiple ball pythons and it makes more sense to buy a temp gun that a $10 thermometer for every enclosure.

Also placing a probe inside the tank can be bad, if the snake urinates or water is spilled on the probe it will tell the thermostat that its a lower temp, this will make the heating pad turn on and get too hot.

I dont want to over load you with info here though, it seems to me like you might be kinda new to this. Once you get a thermometer with a probe and a thermostat we will gladly step you through setting it up on this web site...

Bottom line is you need to get the thermometer and thermostat ASAP...

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I suggested a temp gun because usually you can pick up a decent one for the same price as a digital thermometer with probe.
As for the thermostat. The urine would cause a liquid state over the thermostat seeing the probes are sealed this is not a proble. However it will create a denser mass creating a larger heat sink making it more accurite.
Having the probe under gives you an inaccurite reading it is more accurite having it where the snake would lay.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by shadi11

I suggested a temp gun because usually you can pick up a decent one for the same price as a digital thermometer with probe.
As for the thermostat. The urine would cause a liquid state over the thermostat seeing the probes are sealed this is not a proble. However it will create a denser mass creating a larger heat sink making it more accurite.
Having the probe under gives you an inaccurite reading it is more accurite having it where the snake would lay.

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The cheapest temp gun I can get is $25, I can get a accu-rite thermometer with probe at wal mart for $10.

The probe doesnt matter if its sealed, if you poor liquid on it, then temps are lowered plain and simple. Liquid cools. This would cause a spike in temerature.

However the OP has decided to try a rheostat so this wont be a problem...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jorgasm

Quick question, I should get a rheostat for both my lamp and my UTH correct?

Shopping list:

*second identical hide
*2 rheostats
*2 digital thermometers

Sound good?

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You can get by with a single digital thermometer if you buy the Accurite unit from Walmart. It's $10-12. It has a main unit (place it on the cool side) and a probe (placed on the UTH). This lets you monitor both sides. And it has a built in hygrometer, so it measures humidity as well. I'm not sure what your setup looks like, but you may be able to use a single rheostat on the UTH. I use a rheostat on my UTH and my lamp is positioned 14" above the tub, so it maintains a constant temp without regulation. Best of luck, and listen to these guys. They knowledge possessed on this board is amazing.

I couldn't find any of the digital thermometers any of you mentioned. And I went to two wal-marts and three fred meyers. Needless to say I'm a little pissed at the moment. I hope what I got will work. O_o The brand is mainstays and its a 2-piece digital meat thermometer with a probe. I also couldn't find any light dimmers that were described here which really bummed me out. And top all of that sweetness of the hide I got [for the same price, frome a different Petco] is smaller than the one I currently have in the tank. Damn it! Is that a huge deal? *breathes deep* I need a glass of wine. =p

Hmmm Ive never seen a wal mart that didnt have them, what are the temp ranges on that thermometer you bought? Also did you look in the outdoor thermometer section of wal mart?

I think the lowest it will go before it turns off is 95 degrees F to like 165... !$@#@!# >_< I'm really upset. 15 bucks and it won't even work.

Hi,

Can you return it? Ask for weather stations and see if they could order one in for you if they have none in stock - or of course there is always ebay.


dr del

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jorgasm

I think the lowest it will go before it turns off is 95 degrees F to like 165... !$@#@!# >_< I'm really upset. 15 bucks and it won't even work.

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Just return it, did you check wal mart in thier outdoor thermometer section? heres a link to what your looking for. They are a lot cheaper at wal mart...

http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Thermo...9453470&sr=1-2

I can return it I'm sure, but I won't be able to get back to that wal-mart until next week. Thank the gods I didn't open the damn thing! My ball has been sleeping on top of his hide all day. Does this mean that the heating pad is 100% for sure too hot? I'm worried. ]= And about the second hide I purchased, is it a super big deal that its a little bit smaller than the current one?

btw, thanks guys for being so helpful. I appreciate the tips and everything very much.