How to set up an egg tub

So, I was asked to do this by a friend, and have FINALLY gotten around to doing it.

Here we go!


Begin with a tub that you KNOW will fit in your incubator. I use 6qt tubs for the most part. If you can use a larger tub, feel free to do so!

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...b/P1050523.jpg

Secondly, make sure that you have enough substrate. I use the vermiculite/perlite mixture, as it works for me, and I managed to get some weird sized vermiculite this year.

Here is the super fine stuff

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...b/P1050524.jpg

Here is the extra large stuff

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...b/P1050525.jpg

Here is perlite. Make sure that the perlite you are using is does not have fertilizers in it, as it will NOT make your eggs grow any better, but rather make it much worse ;)

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...b/P1050527.jpg

Now with my situation, I have basically taken equal parts of these three and mixed them together. Depending on the type of vermiculite you use (typically the size in between the two I use), you may not have to use perlite at all. I do because the small super fine stuff is practically sandlike.

Here is a dry mixture of all of the three parts. It will be dusty, so be careful. Make sure to mix it evenly thruout.

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...b/P1050528.jpg

Now add water.

THIS IS THE TRICKY PART.

DO NOT add so much water that you can squeeze water out of your substrate. Add enough that you can squeeze it into a ball, it not fall apart, and it does not leak water. Also enough water so that you can easily break your substrate ball into pieces again.

Here are a couple examples of that.

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...b/P1050529.jpg

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...b/P1050530.jpg

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...b/P1050531.jpg

Now if you put too much water in, add more substrate. Just keep on keeping on until you get it right.

Then add eggs (photo not included in this, as I didn't have eggs to put in the box yet)

Take some Glad Press N' Seal or something similar (generic brand is TOTALLY FINE :)) and cover the box

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...b/P1050532.jpg

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...b/P1050533.jpg

Place the top on firmly.

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...b/P1050534.jpg

And there you go!

Hope this is helpful to some...

Good job Heather! I have stickied it! :D

Sweet! Great thread Heather! :gj:

Great post!!!

I would like to add my 2 cents. When your adding the water if you add equal parts of water to substrate by weight it should get the mixture near perfect. now here is my super secret method:
put the empty egg tub on the scale, zero the scale. Add the dry substrate taking note of the weight. Then add the water until the weight is double what you started with, voila perfect amount of water.

Also, you want your substrate to be as sterile as possible so working with latex gloves or really clean hands is worth a mention.

Richard

Great post Heather, I spent many worried nights when I first started(Is the mix to wet? to dry?)

Richard the only problem with mixing equal parts is many nuseries(like mine) store the vermiculite outside and can be damp from rain or bone dry so I prefer Heathers way of doing it by feel in case the mix varies.

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Originally Posted by Somed00d

Great post!!!

I would like to add my 2 cents. When your adding the water if you add equal parts of water to substrate by weight it should get the mixture near perfect. now here is my super secret method:
put the empty egg tub on the scale, zero the scale. Add the dry substrate taking note of the weight. Then add the water until the weight is double what you started with, voila perfect amount of water.

Also, you want your substrate to be as sterile as possible so working with latex gloves or really clean hands is worth a mention.

Richard

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I read many times that big breeders re-use substrate over and over for several years just scooping out the nasty spots and never have issues...so I'm not sure rubber gloves are necessary...

Awesome post Heather! Thanks for the great info! :gj:

What's the purpose of the cling wrap?

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Originally Posted by sho220

I read many times that big breeders re-use substrate over and over for several years just scooping out the nasty spots and never have issues...so I'm not sure rubber gloves are necessary...

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totally true, i just said its worth a mention :) I know a few that bake the substrate in the oven to make sure its clean and others that reuse the same substrate and its still moist from previous years.

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Originally Posted by West Coast Jungle

Richard the only problem with mixing equal parts is many nuseries(like mine) store the vermiculite outside and can be damp from rain or bone dry so I prefer Heathers way of doing it by feel in case the mix varies.

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Never thought of it that way, I have not seen damp vermiculite myself but as you said its more than possible.


Richard

Sweet post!! Perfect timing, too, as I should be starting some breeding this coming winter. :D I'm marking this one!

The way I test the vermic/perlite mixture is to squeeze it like Heather says and make sure no water drips out and it condenses like that but when you poke it, it immediately collapses. That seems to be the just right amount of moisture. You'll get a real workout mixing the dry mix then adding the water. You need to mix and mix and if you think you're done, mix some more LOL. I think that step can't be overstated since you want the water you add completely and evenly incorporated into the dry mixture.

Just to add to your excellent write up Heather here's a couple of pictures of clutches set up in a vermiculite/perlite mixture like yours.....

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...ox03-29-08.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...ox03-15-08.jpg

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Originally Posted by sho220

What's the purpose of the cling wrap?

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It helps keep the humidity in with the eggs without a lot of condensation dripping down on them. We air our eggs by removing the lid and lifting a corner of the cling wrap about every 3 to 5 days. Once they hit day 45 we remove the cling wrap all together and just pop the lid every day for a few seconds to air them (you'll see a lot more condensation developing at this point as they approach their hatching date).

If you use the light grate on top of the subsrate you can add a lot of water to it. This way you will never have to worry about a to wet or to dry subtrate.I use 6qt tubs with press and seal.The eggs are never in contact with the substrate. The humidity levels stay at or near 100% because of the large amount of water in the substrate.
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s...tch15-7-08.jpg
http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s...3/babypic2.jpg

I used Hatch-rite straight out of the bag and it worked great...:)

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Originally Posted by sho220

I used Hatch-rite straight out of the bag and it worked great...:)

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I did as well, and love Hatchrite, and will continue to use it. This post is still excellent for those who decide they'd rather use vermiculite/perlite! :gj:

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Originally Posted by rabernet

I did as well, and love Hatchrite, and will continue to use it. This post is still excellent for those who decide they'd rather use vermiculite/perlite! :gj:

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I also used Hatch-Rite and it worked great.

Hatchrite here too. Although I bet just water alone would work just fine,as long as the eggs were not in direct contact with the water.
Temp and humidity are the key factors. The air in the egg box will hold x amount of water at say 89f. No more. Once this point of saturation is reached, thats it,you're there.
If the eggs are not in contact with a substrate there is no chance of drying out the eggs from to dry a mix,or even worse getting it to wet and rotting the eggs.

Just my .02 cents

Great post heather... Ill have to remember this... But when i start breeding i'll be calling you and having you come help lol

Where can you get hatchrite?

Hatchrite is sold online by several suppliers, but the original person who markets it is Alex Hue. :)

I bought two bags from Pangea Reptiles and my third bag from NERD when I was up there.

so i take it the humidity levels in the tub should be 80-100%?

yay heather!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

i knew it wouldve become a sticky because it is very helpful :D

thank you so much you rock

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Originally Posted by LadyOhh

Hatchrite is sold online by several suppliers, but the original person who markets it is Alex Hue. :)

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I think it sells for around $12, but I was lucky enough to find it for $8 per bag online. The bags are 2 pound bags. I used about 1 1/4 - 1 1/2 pounds for each 6qt tub. Hope this helps.

If you attend reptile shows you can often find a vendor there selling it. If you attend the monthly show in Taylor, MI I believe one or two vendors there generally have it available.

:D Think we will find any hatchright at daytona?

:) Thank you for this tutorial!!! We just set our first egg tub up and it went off without a hitch thanks to you!! :gj:

We used perilite and vermiculite

I poke small holes in the bottom of my egg tubs so the excess water drains out. Makes it fool proof.

And for substrate i switched to Calcined clay. It holds on to water longer and its easier to tell how wet it is because the color changes from light tan (Dry) To dark brown(Wet)

This is where i got it.
http://www.dallasbonsai.com/store/calcined_clay.html

Hands down the best hatching substrate ive ever used.

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Originally Posted by frankykeno

It helps keep the humidity in with the eggs without a lot of condensation dripping down on them. We air our eggs by removing the lid and lifting a corner of the cling wrap about every 3 to 5 days. Once they hit day 45 we remove the cling wrap all together and just pop the lid every day for a few seconds to air them (you'll see a lot more condensation developing at this point as they approach their hatching date).

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Talking about the condensation dripping. I have seen this method(cling wrap/press-n-seal) but I have noticed sometimes it will bow towards the center of the wrap which will direct the condensation(droplets) towards the center where the eggs normally are. Then you have drips on eggs. Please elaborate on how to prevent this so those going to try this method do it properly. (like me possibly.. :rolleyes:)

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Originally Posted by Hyper Joe

Talking about the condensation dripping. I have seen this method(cling wrap/press-n-seal) but I have noticed sometimes it will bow towards the center of the wrap which will direct the condensation(droplets) towards the center where the eggs normally are. Then you have drips on eggs. Please elaborate on how to prevent this so those going to try this method do it properly. (like me possibly.. :rolleyes:)

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If this is the case, I would lay a couple paper towels on top of the eggs. Would that be ok?

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Originally Posted by LadyOhh

Take some Glad Press N' Seal or something similar (generic brand is TOTALLY FINE :)) and cover the box

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so there is no need for air holes what-so-ever?

I have a 340g 08 normal female and when she is of size age and weight I would like to possibly pick up a male Spider to mate her with and I just want to make sure I do everything correct!

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Originally Posted by t-Roy

If this is the case, I would lay a couple paper towels on top of the eggs. Would that be ok?

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Yes, that would be fine. Just make sure to pay attention to the paper towel wetness.

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Originally Posted by bobbyd6929

so there is no need for air holes what-so-ever?

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Nope. As long as you burp the tub maybe once a week, you'll be fine.

Thanks for the excellent walkthrough H. I've got my fingers crossed I'll need this very soon. :please:

This is a great thread!!! Thank you Miss Heather, I'm takin lots of notes!!!:banana:

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Originally Posted by LadyOhh

Yes, that would be fine. Just make sure to pay attention to the paper towel wetness.

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OK.. To add to that for even more safety, I would set the box tilted so if there are condensations wanting to drip, they would all slide to one side where the eggs aren't placed before they ever get a chance to drip..

OK. So with this process all done with eggs inside, plastic wrap on top, and lid closed, all I need to do is put heat tape on the box for heat and wait for eggs to hatch right? So I don't need to make or buy an incubator right???

I do think you need a incubator,at least go buy a havabator.

So whats the point of this egg tub if I need an incubator? Sorry. Im a noob. Do I put this egg tub inside an incubator?

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Originally Posted by t-Roy

So whats the point of this egg tub if I need an incubator? Sorry. Im a noob. Do I put this egg tub inside an incubator?

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comon. someone help a newbie understand. :oops:
I learning so I can do things right when it happens. I have bps but never bred them.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by t-Roy

OK.. To add to that for even more safety, I would set the box tilted so if there are condensations wanting to drip, they would all slide to one side where the eggs aren't placed before they ever get a chance to drip..

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Don't tip the eggs unless you want them to die. They need to be level and in a consistant environment, as they have an air bubble in the egg that if it moves or ruptures, will kill the embryo.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by t-Roy

OK. So with this process all done with eggs inside, plastic wrap on top, and lid closed, all I need to do is put heat tape on the box for heat and wait for eggs to hatch right? So I don't need to make or buy an incubator right???

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You need an incubator.

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Originally Posted by t-Roy

So whats the point of this egg tub if I need an incubator? Sorry. Im a noob. Do I put this egg tub inside an incubator?

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You can't incubate eggs just in an incubator alone. You need humidity and stable substrate as well, which is why we have this thread right here..... THEN you put it in the incubator...that is running at 89 degrees or so evenly.

My 2 pennies...

Penny 1 - In my opinion Hovabators are not good for more than a few BP eggs(3 or less). The size of an average BP egg and the closeness to the heat source in the hovabator may cook the eggs. Hovabators are excellent for smaller eggs like colubrids.

Penny 2 - Tilting the egg container as Heather explained is not a good idea if you do it. She mentions this because there are people out there that will tilt their egg tubs at a 45 degree angle. Which definitely is a NO NO!
However, if you tilt one end slightly like 1/16-1/8 of an inch higher then the other end then this minute angle "should" be enough to direct the droplets to the lower end. And this should not have an adverse affect on the eggs.
I have not tried this method myself I am just assuming this would be ok.* See below *

* With my engineering background in Common Sense and my Masters in Logic I figure my assumptions are correct. If you disagree please refer to rule number 1. ** See Below **

** Rule # 1 - Joseph is always correct **

Heeheehe.
For those of you that don't know me I am just joking about rule#1.

This is a great thread:salute:

just out of curiosity if im running my incubator at 89-90 is the temo in the egg box the same or does it vary by a degree or so?

Hi,

I think the best idea would be to have the thermometer probe in the egg box and use that to help set the thermostat setting for the incubator - I don't know how long it takes between adjustments for things to stabilize though.


dr del

Well I bought a het albino that was possible gravid. After about 2 weeks I figured she wasnt gravid and decided not to build an incubator. 4 weeks later I now have a clutch of surprise eggs. I ran out and grabbed a wine cooler, thermostat that should be here tomorrow. But I can not find perlite without some additives in it. My question is can you use just vermiculite?

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Originally Posted by Clear

Well I bought a het albino that was possible gravid. After about 2 weeks I figured she wasnt gravid and decided not to build an incubator. 4 weeks later I now have a clutch of surprise eggs. I ran out and grabbed a wine cooler, thermostat that should be here tomorrow. But I can not find perlite without some additives in it. My question is can you use just vermiculite?

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Yes you can, but be very careful of the water/substrate mixture :)

What do you mean with the mixture? It should just be damp and not soaked right?

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Originally Posted by Clear

What do you mean with the mixture? It should just be damp and not soaked right?

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Same technique in checking your vermiculite water mixture.

Clump it up, make sure no water squeezes out, and test it by touching it with your finger. If it breaks apart easily, then you are good.

or use light grid to keep the eggs off of the medium.

Gotcha, I just sterilized the tubs, washed them, dried them and re-washed. I will test the mixture once they are dry. Hopefully my thermostat will get here soon! Thanks for the guide!