substrate?

whats the best substrate for bearded dragons, i have sand and it works ok but you cant see there colors very well, anyone!!!!

I like to use Critter Country
http://www.petco.com/product/7422/Cr...N-Bedding.aspx
for my juvy and older beardies. It doesnt smell (like alfalpha) and is very abosobent but you dont want it to get real wet as it will mold if damp or saturated. I soak my beardies in tubs so they dont get real wet in their inside enclosures. It spot cleans real nice:gj:

cool anyone else have ideas

I'm using the eco earth or bed-a-beast and that's seeming to work out pretty well.

Good Substrate: non-adhesive shelf liner, tile, paper towels, repti-carpet

Bad Substrate: any loose substrate (can cause impactions and harbors bacteria)

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Originally Posted by uTiRambo

Good Substrate: non-adhesive shelf liner, tile, paper towels, repti-carpet

Bad Substrate: any loose substrate (can cause impactions and harbors bacteria)

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X100

Hey Rambo didnt know you were a member here too!

And yes loose substrates = BAD

Oh hey flinters :) Yea I joined up here because I'm getting a ball python soon :D

And yea like I said before I would stay away from loose substrate, they can be very hard to keep clean. And the impaction risk with younger beardies.

Alex

I'm using newspaper with my Bearded right now, and he's doing fine on that. I'm going to switch to either non-adhesive shelf liner so I can just wipe up messes or slate tiles. He's in a 110qt tub though, so that may be difficult to get the tiles to fit.

Yea shelf liner is a great substrate, it's what I'm using right now for my beardie. All you have to do is buy some non-scented baby wipes and just wipe the mess up it's so easy.

I have been keeping and breeding dragons for over 13 years. I have only used loose substrate with the exception of hatchlings(on paper towels). If you use alfalpha or critter country it can be injested without any problems. They usually just spit it out but either way never a problem and it spot cleans very well because it is so absorbent. You need to keep an eye on it and clean and replace as needed like you should with any substrate.

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Originally Posted by West Coast Jungle

I have been keeping and breeding dragons for over 13 years. I have only used loose substrate with the exception of hatchlings(on paper towels). If you use alfalpha or critter country it can be injested without any problems. They usually just spit it out but either way never a problem and it spot cleans very well because it is so absorbent. You need to keep an eye on it and clean and replace as needed like you should with any substrate.

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Yeah, some are alot safer than others but when I had four beardies i just thought it was too much trouble to use particle S. I used tile and cleaning never could have been easier, and finding uneaten crickets was super easy. Just the other day I saw a baby beardie with some of its substrate in its eye, it was swollen by then and I felt soo bad for it.

I'm currently using crushed walnut shell. I know many people dislike it, but i only use it with Dragons over 10". I'm going to swicth to filtered play sand, soon, because it's cheaper and i'm moving into the boonies where the only thing around is a home depot.
Anyway, i haven't have dragons long, but i adopted two disabled dragons. One has no back legs and is missing the tip of her tail. And i should be picking up a new one today that is just missing a few toes. They had an outbreak of coccidia at the pet store and they adopted them out to me!
Off topic, real quick. Anyonw know where i can get some medication for coccidia without spending another fortune at the vet? I just want to know in case they have another outbreak in the future.

First thing...change out the crushed walnut shells with newspaper. I know of too many beardies that have died from impaction from ingesting that substrate. Newspaper is cheap and easy to cut to fit, even in tubs.
When I had one beardy, I had him in a 40 gallon breeder tank with natural slate tiles. Of course I had the UV light, CHE, and basking areas. Oh and a custom made temperature controller I made from spare parts at work, maintained the basking area at +/_ 1 degree of setpoint. :D After I figured out the tiles were hard to keep clean, I switched to newspaper. Then I adopted a mate for him, I had to build a front opening enclosure that was about 5'x2'x2'. That much surface area made me a believer in newspaper and changing out the newspaper every week. Who knew 2 beardies could make such a mess. :puke2:

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Originally Posted by KeithTN

First thing...change out the crushed walnut shells with newspaper. I know of too many beardies that have died from impaction from ingesting that substrate. Newspaper is cheap and easy to cut to fit, even in tubs.
When I had one beardy, I had him in a 40 gallon breeder tank with natural slate tiles. Of course I had the UV light, CHE, and basking areas. Oh and a custom made temperature controller I made from spare parts at work, maintained the basking area at +/_ 1 degree of setpoint. :D After I figured out the tiles were hard to keep clean, I switched to newspaper. Then I adopted a mate for him, I had to build a front opening enclosure that was about 5'x2'x2'. That much surface area made me a believer in newspaper and changing out the newspaper every week. Who knew 2 beardies could make such a mess. :puke2:

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The tiles were a pain to clean?? Really? We're builing a custom enclosure for our beardie 8X4X4 and I planned on using either slate or ceramic tiles...may have to change my plans :weirdface

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Originally Posted by KeithTN

First thing...change out the crushed walnut shells with newspaper. I know of too many beardies that have died from impaction from ingesting that substrate. Newspaper is cheap and easy to cut to fit, even in tubs.
When I had one beardy, I had him in a 40 gallon breeder tank with natural slate tiles. Of course I had the UV light, CHE, and basking areas. Oh and a custom made temperature controller I made from spare parts at work, maintained the basking area at +/_ 1 degree of setpoint. :D After I figured out the tiles were hard to keep clean, I switched to newspaper. Then I adopted a mate for him, I had to build a front opening enclosure that was about 5'x2'x2'. That much surface area made me a believer in newspaper and changing out the newspaper every week. Who knew 2 beardies could make such a mess. :puke2:

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Oh i will be, that's why i only have them on it if it's over 10", anything under cannot pass it through their system at all. I haven't had a problem with it yet in nearly 15 years, but then again, i've only had a few dragons. Anyway, soon i'm switching to filtered play sand. So much cheaper just very heavy. I have to switch because i'm moving into the middle of the woods and the only store for miles is a giant home depot and 24 hr walmart. Other than that it's only bear, and they don't like when i take their bedding.

Particle substrates are a pain in the Butt!!! I will say that having tried everything... Tile IS the way to go! Poop wipes right off with a wet cloth... And they can be easily removed and sanitized, I do this maybe once a month.

With particle substrate it does not matter how often you clean, or how much of the dookie you think you got out...you will never get it all as it seeps through to the bottom, and you inevtiably end up with a friggin smelly stinking mess... Then you have to empty everything and dispose of it when You want to REALLY get it clean. Using ceramic tile has really saved me a lot of time and headache when it comes to maintaing my Dragons enclosures.

Not to mention there is no way a piece of tile is going to impact a lizard.;)

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Originally Posted by lenastorms

The tiles were a pain to clean?? Really? We're builing a custom enclosure for our beardie 8X4X4 and I planned on using either slate or ceramic tiles...may have to change my plans :weirdface

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Maybe because it was slate it was diffucult to clean? We use ceramic tile and have no problems. Whenever our beardie goes to the bathroom we just wipe it up with a papertowel. In my opinion ceramic is the easiest to clean, and looks the nicest.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1.../installed.jpg

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Originally Posted by uTiRambo

Good Substrate: non-adhesive shelf liner, tile, paper towels, repti-carpet

Bad Substrate: any loose substrate (can cause impactions and harbors bacteria)

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Originally Posted by Beardedragon

X100

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Agreed!!!

I use newspaper or paper towels, which ever I have on hand. Both make for easy cleanup :rolleyes:

I've heard they can lose toes/toenails when using carpet

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Originally Posted by Funky#2

Maybe because it was slate it was diffucult to clean? We use ceramic tile and have no problems. Whenever our beardie goes to the bathroom we just wipe it up with a papertowel. In my opinion ceramic is the easiest to clean, and looks the nicest.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1.../installed.jpg

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What kind of uvb are you using? If its that fluorescent the uvb will not be reaching yours beardie because it is too far way.

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Originally Posted by Beardedragon

What kind of uvb are you using? If its that fluorescent the uvb will not be reaching yours beardie because it is too far way.

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The lamp on the left is a Zoo Med basking bulb with UVA.

The long fluorescent bulb is a Reptisun 5.0, and it is usually in the front all the way to the left. We have a hinged lid and we push the fluorescent bulb back when we open it.

And the lamp on the far right is just a normal 60 watt bulb we use to maintain temps.

you need to up the amount anyways, they need at least 7% and the 5.0 is 5%. UVA doesnt matter with beardies, every bulb produces it.

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Originally Posted by Beardedragon

you need to up the amount anyways, they need at least 7% and the 5.0 is 5%. UVA doesnt matter with beardies, every bulb produces it.

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You and I just discussed this in another thread last week. The care sheet provided on THIS SITE suggests the Reptisun 5.0 as one of the bulbs to use. I'm not saying you're wrong, and if what you're saying is accurate they should correct the provided care sheet.

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Originally Posted by Funky#2

You and I just discussed this in another thread last week. The care sheet provided on THIS SITE suggests the Reptisun 5.0 as one of the bulbs to use. I'm not saying you're wrong, and if what you're saying is accurate they should correct the provided care sheet.

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Im just telling you that if you want a healthy beardie, upgrade your uvb. I can tell you now that your beardie is not getting enough not only from the brand but from the amount of esposure he is getting even when you move the flourescent. Id recommend a mvb bulb for that setup. A 5.0 is good for a beardie for about two months before it is no longer acceptible for beardies.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Beardedragon

Im just telling you that if you want a healthy beardie, upgrade your uvb. I can tell you now that your beardie is not getting enough not only from the brand but from the amount of esposure he is getting even when you move the flourescent. Id recommend a mvb bulb for that setup. A 5.0 is good for a beardie for about two months before it is no longer acceptible for beardies.

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We definitely want whats best for our beardie, we'll take a look at the MVB bulb.

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Originally Posted by Funky#2

We definitely want whats best for our beardie, we'll take a look at the MVB bulb.

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Try getting a T-rex MVB from lllreptile.com They cost more but they double as a heat lamp and last twice as long as a fluorescent, and will not kill like a compact bulb will.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Beardedragon

Im just telling you that if you want a healthy beardie, upgrade your uvb. I can tell you now that your beardie is not getting enough not only from the brand but from the amount of exposure he is getting even when you move the fluorescent. Id recommend a mvb bulb for that setup. A 5.0 is good for a beardie for about two months before it is no longer acceptable for beardies.

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^^^ someone was a wee bit tired when he wrote this:oops: I had a hard time understanding my own post :o

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Beardedragon

Try getting a T-rex MVB from lllreptile.com They cost more but they double as a heat lamp and last twice as long as a fluorescent, and will not kill like a compact bulb will.

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How much heat? Would you still need a basking lamp or would it be hot enough if it was within 6-8 inches of it?

You cannot put an MVB bulb within 6-8 inches of a reptile. It's too much heat and way too much UVB exposure. Would likely cause retinal damage. MVB bulbs need to be at least 12" or more away, I believe it's more like 16"-18", but I could be wrong.

www.reptileuv.com
This website sells MVB bulbs for around $45 and they last a very long time.

If you want to use a fluorescent, Beardies need to be able to get at the most, 12" from it, preferably 6-8" for best exposure. You NEED to use a 10.0 bulb. The others are junk and will not have a useful UVB output, at least for Bearded Dragon needs.

I'm using a combo of a Zoomed 10.0 fluorescent and a Phillips 75W truecolor bulb for heat. Basking spot gets to 115 easily and the UVB light is within 12" of the Beardie.

As you have it set up now, your lizard isn't getting any useful UVB exposure except when he goes to the basking platform. Get a MVB bulb or a shorter tank(and a 10.0 fluorescent). 5.0s and 7.0s should be left for the non-desert dwelling critters.

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Originally Posted by SatanicIntention

You cannot put an MVB bulb within 6-8 inches of a reptile. It's too much heat and way too much UVB exposure. Would likely cause retinal damage. MVB bulbs need to be at least 12" or more away, I believe it's more like 16"-18", but I could be wrong.

www.reptileuv.com
This website sells MVB bulbs for around $45 and they last a very long time.

If you want to use a fluorescent, Beardies need to be able to get at the most, 12" from it, preferably 6-8" for best exposure. You NEED to use a 10.0 bulb. The others are junk and will not have a useful UVB output, at least for Bearded Dragon needs.

I'm using a combo of a Zoomed 10.0 fluorescent and a Phillips 75W truecolor bulb for heat. Basking spot gets to 115 easily and the UVB light is within 12" of the Beardie.

As you have it set up now, your lizard isn't getting any useful UVB exposure except when he goes to the basking platform. Get a MVB bulb or a shorter tank(and a 10.0 fluorescent). 5.0s and 7.0s should be left for the non-desert dwelling critters.

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Well he is literally up there all day except when we feed him.

I went to the site you suggested and they had an article about a "problem with some of the new high UVB output fluorescent compact lamps and tubes" which resulted in them developing something called photo-kerato-conjunctivitis, which apparently can lead to death.

If my bd is going to spend the majority of his day on his basking platform, should I still go with a stronger output bulb?

Here's the ARTICLE

Thanks.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Beardedragon

Try getting a T-rex MVB from lllreptile.com They cost more but they double as a heat lamp and last twice as long as a fluorescent, and will not kill like a compact bulb will.



^^^ someone was a wee bit tired when he wrote this:oops: I had a hard time understanding my own post :o

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AND the bulbs that will hurt your beardie non heat wise at a 12 in distance are for sale on the site are only for zoos.

The compact bulbs are the small twisty fluorescents. Do not buy those.

The SB series I believe are the safe ones. They do need to be more than 12" away though because they just get hot.

Yes, solid substrates are good. Newspaper, carpet (make sure it doesn't have loops that the beardie could get his nails caught in), tile, etc. I'm going to use tile, because when one is soiled, I can simply take it out, wash it, and put it back.

Best of luck

C4H