BP Has not eaten since Janurary 08

I have browsed through the search feature and done different title browse. But I can't say that I have found the exact topic similar to my situation.

History the snake is about 4 years old and is about 4.5 feet in length. It is a Ball Python. Previously I would feed once every 2 weeks basically give it water and the next day drop in a live medium rat (it had worked up to med rats in size over the years). As soon as it would hit the bottom of the tank it was hit coiled and well relieved of its breathing abilities.

Same routine no problems. After eating I could handle it without it trying to strike me. Well after the last meal it consumed sometime in Janurary that was it.

I tried following up same routine no go snake just investigated the rat and went back to the corner and slept. I ended up giving the rat away. I figured being winter time it may be due to the need to hibernate that it had no appatite. So I waited a month before trying to feed it again.. Same situation the snake appeared to have no intrest. Granted it still consumes water regularly..

Pending the heat review and humidity.. Its south floriduh.. So that is solved for moisture and as for heat I have a heat bulb that covers only a corner of the cage. It usually stays under the heat and I turn it off about an hour before going to sleep myself this routine has been the same for most of its life so I am baffled as to its recent behavior..

The last two rats both of which the snake actually shied away from have been small rats or equal in size to mice. I have also given away..

I read something about scenting and I have never tried giving it a frozen rat so should I look to trying this route even though I have never had the need to do either option before.

Any links to threads or general info that I should read over would be helpful. The same goes with suggestions.

Without measuring exact temps my first thought is temprature. Any low temps in the 70's wil definately cause a BP to go off feed.
A UTH heating pad controled by a thermostat is the best way to get him adequate belly heat which will increase metabolism and thus hunger.

could you put up a pic of your setup? and its not a good idea to handle the snake after it eats.if it goes to strike at you it coulda still been hungry.try 2 next time it does eat.after it does eat try not to handle it for at least 48 hours as they need time to digest.

I have a few that have not eaten since December.. One just ate this week so I know how your feeling.. Chances are he thinks its breeding time and wants a mate. Good thing is he should be over it soon.

Keep with the small rats, a large meal after a long fast is not good for the snake.

I find that sometimes you need to turn out the lights and feed late at night. Make sure he is active, don't try to disturb him to feed, wait for him to poke his head out of his hide then toss in the rat. Also try to wait 2 weeks between feedings.

I hope he eats soon..

Richard

I should clarify that I wait 2 days after feeding before handling again. I have even tried leaving the snake outside on the patio thinking that maybe the outdoor temp may provoke appetite.

I have not considered the idea of it searching for a mate. But then again it has NOT been around any other animals other then a boxer..

outside?like in the tank?

I would just keep trying different things like soaking it and then trying, or feeding it in a small area, or feeding it at night, and so on.
Good luck! :gj:

You still havent discussed exact temps.
Low temps are the #1 reason BP's go off feed. Light bulbs dont really cut it. I think you have a husbandry issue and your snake is letting you know

Am I understanding you correctly?

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Originally Posted by obex26

Previously I would feed once every 2 weeks basically give it water and the next day drop in a live medium rat

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Does this mean your snake is only offered water every two weeks, one day before feeding? I can't imagine this is good for your bp, is it?

First off, like the pic of your 4x4. I have a 2003 Jeep TJ raised up with 35's. I will have to get a pic uploaded to the site.

I have had the exact same problem as you. I have a ball that stopped eating for over six months. I had him in a glass aquarium. I tried everything to no avail. I finally decided to put him in a rack system, 32qt tub, and within the week he was eating again. In my opinion, the reason that he stopped eating is because he was stressed out because the glass aquarium was too open. He did not feel secure. The tub is dark and tight, and exactly what he wanted to feel secure.

I also suggest to never feed him/her a live rat no larger than a small. I feed all mine live small rats every seven days.

Hope this helps, and have a good one.

It may be related to breeding season... but likely to improper husbandry.

Not sure from your responses what you temps and humidity are... unless you are measuring them and controlling for them, then they are subject to any changes in the snakes environment.

If you have a snake with a non-controlled environment... temps go up in the house, temps go up for the snake... temps drop at night... snake's temps drop.

That will trigger cooling and will make your snake go off feed.

You want to create your own weather, measure it, and know exaclty what environment the snake has. You create the thermal gradient and then the snake is free to regulate itself.

Temps are good... medium sized rat... those are non-definitive responses. There are many perceptions of what constitutes a medium sized rat or good temps (not saying those were your exact words).

Better is... "snake's temps are XX on the cool side... XX on the hot side". "The rat offered is XXg in size"...

To get concise answers, you need to provide concise information.

Bruce

First.. The snake gets water regularly it just seemed to be if it had water the day prior to feeding it became routine. I did not know about temp variables was not really informed of such.

::Flame suit on::

After nearly 3 years of caring for it to have it change its eating habits well that was when I decided to go forum hunting.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by obex26

First.. The snake gets water regularly it just seemed to be if it had water the day prior to feeding it became routine. I did not know about temp variables was not really informed of such.

::Flame suit on::

After nearly 3 years of caring for it to have it change its eating habits well that was when I decided to go forum hunting.

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You still have not answered the direct question though.

What are your temps in the enclosure (warm and cool side), and what are you using to measure them?

I'd also recommend reviewing this from our caresheet:

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WHY WON'T MY SNAKE EAT?
In almost all cases, a ball python refuses to eat due to husbandry issues. Especially a young one. If your snake misses more than one meal (sometimes they won't want to eat while in shed) please check the following possible causes:

Lack of Security -- No hides, or hides that are too large or exposed (ie: half logs). They prefer dark, tight hides they barely fit into. Also, if the enclosure is too large, or too open (glass) or in a high traffic area with a lot of loud noise or movement. Another snake in the same enclosure can also cause serious security issues.

Over Handling -- Frequent intrusions into the enclosure, changes to the enclosure, and/or long frequent handling sessions can cause a shy snake to feel vulnerable and refuse to eat.

Improper Temps -- Temps that are too high or too low, or temps that fluctuate too much. Make sure you have an accurate and consistent read on your temps.

Improper Lighting -- Bright white lights shining directly into the enclosure, or 24 hour lighting can cause stress. Make sure there is some sort of day/night cycle.

Offering New Prey -- Changing prey species (ie: mice to rats) or methods (ie: live to f/t) can cause refusal. Such changes can be made, but may require patience and persistence.

Improper Offering of Prey -- Offering prey too frequently can do more harm than good. If a snake refuses, do not attempt to feed again for a week. Also, changing environments by moving to a feeding-box or removing hides and "furniture" can cause refusal in these shy snakes.

Prey Too Large -- Too large an item may intimidate a snake and cause refusal, or even a regurgitation if it is eaten. Also, if a ball python has eaten large meals in the past, it can cause a sudden an indefinite period of fasting.

Mites -- An external parasite common to snakes that must be treated and eradicated. A product called Provent-a-Mite (P.A.M.) is the safest and most effective method.

Seasonal -- Sexually mature ball pythons may fast for anywhere from a few weeks to a few months during their mating season (typically anywhere from late fall to early spring) especially if a sexually mature snake of the opposite sex is in close proximity.

Illness -- If all other possible reasons are eliminated, a vet check may be in order to look for internal parasites, as well as possible infections to the skin, scales, mouth or respiratory system.

Fortunately, ball pythons are extremely hardy snakes that can go for months (if necessary) of fasting without suffering any ill effects. This gives a responsible keeper plenty of time to figure out why the snake refuses to eat and get them on a regular, consistent feeding regimen.

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