New to Ball Pythons

I'm extremely interested in purchasing a Ball Python. I've spent hours researching and reading about them, caring for them, feeding them, housing them, etc. The problem with it all is that the information seems to be different or varying slightly from source to source.

I'm going to a reptile show in a couple of weeks and am hoping to make a purchase there. If I don't purchase there, I'm planning on contacting a reptile breeding facility that sells to all the local pet stores to see if I can cut out the middle man and get a Ball Python before they send it to a pet store.

I'm wanting a hatchling (as young of one as possible) and I understand that stress is a huge factor with this type of snake. I figure, why put it through the burden of going from breeding facility > transportation to pet store > pet store > transportation to my home > it's home here?

I went to the pet store and was researching prices on all the items I'm looking to buy for it. I'm planning on getting a 20 gallon locking terrarium, heat pad, bark substrate, large water dish, 2 hides, thermometer, hygrometer, and decorations.

My buddy has a Ball Python and after reading information online and his input, it all seems skewed. Someone on another forum said that he is keeping his Ball Python in basically a Rubbermaid container for it's first year. This isn't very appealing to me, but he says it's to help keep his living space small and it will help keep the snake stress-free. I am wanting to have the habitat all set up and bring the hatchling home and place it in what is going to be it's home for years. I feel like in the long run the stress will be worse from being in a plastic tub for a year then being placed in a more outside looking environment. Should I keep it in a tub or in what will be it's permanent home upon bringing to my house?

Another thing that seems varied is when feeding the Ball Python, my friend says to take it out of it's home and feed it in something else. He says that if you feed it while it's in it's home, it will start assuming that hands being in the tank means feeding and it might bite more. He says that all of this is true unless you handle the snake often, keeping it guessing. If I don't plan on handling it, he says to feed it in something other than it's home. But, from what I read, the feeding is the biggest stress-related issue. Won't it be stressed out and not eat if it's constantly being shuffled from home > feeding tank > home > feeding tank, etc?

What is your guys' input on all of this and do any of you have any other helpful tips or anything seeing as how this is my first experience with purchasing and keeping a snake?

Thanks so much!

Welcome to the forum!!!

A hatchling ball python (or any ball python) can be shipped right from a respected breeder to your home. I don't understand why you put the pet store part in there...? There are lots of great breeders; you only need to check them out, decide what you want, and pay for it.

A hatchling will need a small environment and many people use tubs for this reason. It does not stress them to be moved to a reptile cage or a fish tank when they are bigger; say about 700g or so.

Feeding outside of the environment is not necessary and it is a myth that you must or you'll get bitten or whatever. It can stress the snake out to move it and it is just simply not needed.

In your list of needed items, a large water dish is not needed and you forget to include a thermostat- very important.

Anything else? :D

There are plenty of breeders here if you just want a pet..

Keep it in its permanent home and change things dependant on what the stress levels are (add hides, lots of junk to keep it concealed). If it becomes a huge problem, then you can revert to the tub for a while.

Feed where you want. I have never had problems with feeding in the tank/tub.

kudos to you for such good pre planning. that was all my hope and dream, to purchase everything needed, and THEN choose an animal. not to say i don't love my Snikolas. he's a bit over 3 feet, and i've only had him for a lil over a month, but so far he's been a phenomenal pet. he's a rescue with some lamp burns and had a bad shed but he's doing SO well now. BPs are definately resiliant! i've not had a problem yet with feeding in the enclosure, i put a clean piece of paper in his tank, feed him, and when he's done chowin down and has chilled out a lil bit, i take the paper out and stick his hides and water back where they go.

as i said, my BP is a bit over 3ft and he's my first, so i don't have hatchling experience, but from what i understand, you've done your homework.

i'm sure you're going to be a phenomenal BP owner!

Thanks so far for the advice! I'm definitely happy with myself by trying to figure everything out before just buying a BP on an impulse - that would be unfair to it. It deserves just as much planning and emotion, etc as any pet would.

I've already had a member PM me with tank preparation and the such. I appreciate that.

I'm going to buy from a breeder. Does anyone have any recommendations? My friend purchased his BP from:

http://www.rcreptiles.com

It's a breeder based out of Pennsylvania. I live in Ohio, so that would be good. I've found a few other websites:

http://lllreptile.com/store/catalog/animals/pythons/

http://www.reptilecity.com/

I was curious about something else as well. I'm going to be buying substrate of some sorts. With the snake urinating/pooping, will I be able to tell where it's at so I can change only that portion of the substrate? I plan on removing everything and fully cleaning it throughout the year. Is it possible to tell where it's waste is so I can remove it?

Do the hides for the snake have to be completely sealed except for an entrance hole, or could it be something like a half log arch type thing that has openings on two ends - somewhat tunnel like?

Does water needed changed daily as well?

Thanks so much everyone.

A very short list of breeders:
NERD http://www.newenglandreptile.com/
8Ball http://www.8ballpythons.com/index.htm
TSK http://ballpython.com/page.php
Ralph Davis http://www.ralphdavisreptiles.com/
Jasball John http://mysite.verizon.net/vze7wjl4/j...ons/index.html
Barker's http://www.vpi.com/store

Substrate:
A lot of people use newspaper but the dyes in newsprint are toxic. I get Kraft paper from this site: http://www.packagingsupplies.com/Kra..._Products.html. Kara just turned us on to it and they have great prices!
The snake pees and you change out the paper and put new paper in. No guessing if the snake has pee'd and no guessing if you've gotten it all with a partial change ;)

Hides:
Balls like to be hidden ;) So it is best if the hide is enclosed except for the ingress/egress hole. The logs are fairly dysfunctional- go with something different especially since you want a wee tiny snake.

Water:
Clean the bowl and give fresh water daily.

Anything else? I think it's great that you're doing everything now- before you get the snake!! Kudos!!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by starmom

A very short list of breeders:
NERD http://www.newenglandreptile.com/
8Ball http://www.8ballpythons.com/index.htm
TSK http://ballpython.com/page.php
Ralph Davis http://www.ralphdavisreptiles.com/
Jasball John http://mysite.verizon.net/vze7wjl4/j...ons/index.html
Barker's http://www.vpi.com/store

Substrate:
A lot of people use newspaper but the dyes in newsprint are toxic. I get Kraft paper from this site: http://www.packagingsupplies.com/Kra..._Products.html. Kara just turned us on to it and they have great prices!
The snake pees and you change out the paper and put new paper in. No guessing if the snake has pee'd and no guessing if you've gotten it all with a partial change ;)

Hides:
Balls like to be hidden ;) So it is best if the hide is enclosed except for the ingress/egress hole. The logs are fairly dysfunctional- go with something different especially since you want a wee tiny snake.

Water:
Clean the bowl and give fresh water daily.

Anything else? I think it's great that you're doing everything now- before you get the snake!! Kudos!!!

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I'll check into those breeders. Thank you!

I think I'm going to stick with a mulch/bark substrate and see how that goes. That Kraft paper is a bit pricey for me and I'd like the look of mulch better. Thanks for the tip though - I might look into it in the future.

I knew BPs like to be hidden - that's all I seem to read about: the stress factors, etc. I'll look in to finding some completely enclosed hides instead of the logs.

If I have any other questions I think of, I'll ask. Thanks so much!

Another question:

Should I feed my BP live mice? That is what my friend has done all along. As I've researched, it seems like people feed dead food that is thawed out. I understand that by giving it live food, there is a possibility of the mouse/rat scratching or hurting the snake. I watched some YouTube videos and the snake expert said it's OK to feed live as long as you are supervising. Give it 15 minutes and if the BP hasn't eaten, remove the mouse.

What is the overall opinion here?

Just wanna let you know... that bark is a pain in the butt to clean. I started off with that with my first snake and it was very time consuming. You also have to check it for dampness because there can be liquid urine which you obviously can't see on that type of substrate - so spot cleaning doesn't tend to work out. I started off wanting a 'natural-type' enclosure but within two weeks I was converted to tubs/newspaper. They are SO MUCH CHEAPER it's ridiculous, uncomplicated to clean, and the snakes seem more content in a simple, snug home. Just wanted to offer my opinion... :)

Edit: IF your snakey will eat frozen/thawed, it will likely be financially a lot easier on you. However if you decide to go this route, it may take a little more patience on your part in the beginning to get him accustomed.

I also read elsewhere that astro-turf works as a decent substrate. Has anyone tried this?

I really would like to feed it live food - it just looks so much cooler, but I definitely don't want my snake being hurt.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Johnny Hive X

I also read elsewhere that astro-turf works as a decent substrate. Has anyone tried this?

I really would like to feed it live food - it just looks so much cooler, but I definitely don't want my snake being hurt.

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Astro turf sucks! hard to clean.

Its cool, untill you get attached to the rodent, or it gets hit in the wrong spot and shreaks and screams and carrys on, and your gf starts crying.... It is much more apealing to your gf to feed f/t.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by stangs13

Astro turf sucks! hard to clean.

Its cool, untill you get attached to the rodent, or it gets hit in the wrong spot and shreaks and screams and carrys on, and your gf starts crying.... It is much more apealing to your gf to feed f/t.

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I'll keep researching substrates then. I'm still just really not liking the idea of newspaper or other paper. I dunno - just seems weird to me.

I've seen a couple videos of live feedings and it is hard to watch some. I'll see how it goes and how I like it and everything.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Johnny Hive X

I'll keep researching substrates then. I'm still just really not liking the idea of newspaper or other paper. I dunno - just seems weird to me.

I've seen a couple videos of live feedings and it is hard to watch some. I'll see how it goes and how I like it and everything.

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Then why ask for suggestions? Just sayin.

I don't think any of us really "like" watching another creature die to feed our animals, but it comes with the territory. Regardless of whether you're feeding live or frozen, nature has taken it's course and one way or another that prey item died to provide nourishment to your snake. That's something you have to come to terms with.

Lots of people use aspen substrate. I've tried this but I can never get it all clean! I do keep a pile of it in one part of the cage for my boas though...
Also, with the type of substrate you're talking about, I would think that the snake is going to have to burrow down all the time just to get the heat; maybe I'm wrong, but if you use UTH then it makes logical sense :weirdface
I use the cages at http://www.reptilebasics.com They are the bomb diggity!!! Just more info for you ;)
I'm also digging the radiant heat panels that they sell. Heat from above that won't burn the snake and yet warms like the sun and substrate is not a problem. Very nifty little invention!
Also, remember a thermostat!!

I use newspaper, and add under the hides some aspen snake bedding ( http://www.petco.com/product/14364/Z...e-Bedding.aspx )
it does help with the cleaning up process. The sides & back of the enclosure needs to be dark, unless you are using a tub.

you need UTH, both sides, with a thermostat. Need to have a temp gauge to see the temps & humidity.

Freshwater in a shallow dish.. you don't really need any plants or extra things in the enclosure. 2 identical hides.

I started out feeding my BP live mice, but after 2 months, as the prey was getting larger, I ended up getting frozen. You just let sit out (room temp) then give to my BP. He knows from alive & already passed on. He doesn't strike it, he studies it for a second or two & then goes to town. He is on small rats. I feed him every 6-7 days.

also be sure that you can afford & take care of a BP... as in a vet if needed.

:snake:

I use aspen and 2 identical half log smaller sized hides for Furio because he's still a little squirt. I stuff the logs loosely with moss though which he absolutely loves burrowing in and making a nest. Everyone has given you really good suggestions so far. It's to the individual keeper as to what they use and if they want to make it work. As a tank user, get ready to battle humidity issues (The moss works great with wet towels over the screen of the tank)

Good luck! :):gj:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by darkangel

Then why ask for suggestions? Just sayin.

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To see if there is something out there other than what I'm wanting?? :weirdface

Quote:

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I don't think any of us really "like" watching another creature die to feed our animals, but it comes with the territory. Regardless of whether you're feeding live or frozen, nature has taken it's course and one way or another that prey item died to provide nourishment to your snake. That's something you have to come to terms with.

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Well I'm going to see how it goes. I'm not losing sleep over what has to die for a Ball Python to live.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by starmom

Lots of people use aspen substrate. I've tried this but I can never get it all clean! I do keep a pile of it in one part of the cage for my boas though...
Also, with the type of substrate you're talking about, I would think that the snake is going to have to burrow down all the time just to get the heat; maybe I'm wrong, but if you use UTH then it makes logical sense :weirdface
I use the cages at http://www.reptilebasics.com They are the bomb diggity!!! Just more info for you ;)
I'm also digging the radiant heat panels that they sell. Heat from above that won't burn the snake and yet warms like the sun and substrate is not a problem. Very nifty little invention!
Also, remember a thermostat!!

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I'll check out that link. Thanks.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by V1L3 DiaL3cT

I use aspen and 2 identical half log smaller sized hides for Furio because he's still a little squirt. I stuff the logs loosely with moss though which he absolutely loves burrowing in and making a nest. Everyone has given you really good suggestions so far. It's to the individual keeper as to what they use and if they want to make it work. As a tank user, get ready to battle humidity issues (The moss works great with wet towels over the screen of the tank)

Good luck! :):gj:

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I'm ready to take it on. I've been reading about what humidity it should be.

Im hopping in now, before reaching the end of the thread...

Starmom, papers now use soy ink, so it's not toxic.

Bark is hard to clean and the paper is nice, but I prefer decorative. I use aspen. And sometimes the aspen mixed w/the coconut husk bedding. Easy to see the poo and the urates. You just need to clean a little bit bigger area than just the urates to get all the moisture. Astro-turf would be difficult to keep sanitary. I started with reptile carpet w/my first snake, and even though I washed it regularly, there was no guarantee that it was clean or sanitary.

Log hides won't provide enough cover/security for your little guy. The hides need to be identical and close/snug fitting for him to feel safe.

Moving around a lot from home to feeding tub to home again will often stress out the baby. Even bigger snakes can stop feeding b/c of the moving around about being "taken" out of hunt mode. They're ambush hunters.

If you feed FT, thawing at room temp is good, but then warm it up with a hair dryer or hot water, being bagged. Feeding cold food to your snake can cause digestive problems, or reluctance to grab it, if it's not warm enough.

82-84* cool side, 92-94* hot, thermostats on your UTH/lamps. If a tank & screen, cover all but a couple small areas < for ventilation > with tinfoil, plastic wrap or glass, to help trap in the humidity, and then you don't have to worry about bacteria growth in a moist towel. I tried paper towels for a while on top, but they were more hassle than they were worth.

Having your tank / tub all set up and stabilized is very good planning! Good for you, reading up and learning, BEFORE you get your new pet. :gj:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sweety314

Im hopping in now, before reaching the end of the thread...
Starmom, papers now use soy ink, so it's not toxic...

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By a large margin newspapers do not use soy ink!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sweety314

Im hopping in now, before reaching the end of the thread...

Starmom, papers now use soy ink, so it's not toxic.

Bark is hard to clean and the paper is nice, but I prefer decorative. I use aspen. And sometimes the aspen mixed w/the coconut husk bedding. Easy to see the poo and the urates. You just need to clean a little bit bigger area than just the urates to get all the moisture. Astro-turf would be difficult to keep sanitary. I started with reptile carpet w/my first snake, and even though I washed it regularly, there was no guarantee that it was clean or sanitary.

Log hides won't provide enough cover/security for your little guy. The hides need to be identical and close/snug fitting for him to feel safe.

Moving around a lot from home to feeding tub to home again will often stress out the baby. Even bigger snakes can stop feeding b/c of the moving around about being "taken" out of hunt mode. They're ambush hunters.

If you feed FT, thawing at room temp is good, but then warm it up with a hair dryer or hot water, being bagged. Feeding cold food to your snake can cause digestive problems, or reluctance to grab it, if it's not warm enough.

82-84* cool side, 92-94* hot, thermostats on your UTH/lamps. If a tank & screen, cover all but a couple small areas < for ventilation > with tinfoil, plastic wrap or glass, to help trap in the humidity, and then you don't have to worry about bacteria growth in a moist towel. I tried paper towels for a while on top, but they were more hassle than they were worth.

Having your tank / tub all set up and stabilized is very good planning! Good for you, reading up and learning, BEFORE you get your new pet. :gj:

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I'll give the Aspen a try then! Thanks for the recommendation. Is it true that the thickness should be no higher than to the first joint of you index finger?

I'm going to get two identical hides off of the website provided earlier. They are a standard black and are inexpensive. Do you keep one of the hides at the warm end of the tank and one of them at the cooler end of the tank?

I'm going to feed the snake in it's home tank. I'm not going to transfer back and forth. I plan on handling it as much as possible (reasonably) so it shouldn't confuse me for food.

I plan on insulating the tank with probably cork board and foil tape on the sides and then foil and duct tape on the lid.


Does anyone have recommendations on how to secure the lid? I want to keep it as closed to locked as possible. I've seen a terrarium that has a slide in place lid and two holes align to fit a lock or nail through. Is there another method of securing a lid other than that or just putting a weight on it?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Johnny Hive X

I'll give the Aspen a try then! Thanks for the recommendation. Is it true that the thickness should be no higher than to the first joint of you index finger?

I'm going to get two identical hides off of the website provided earlier. They are a standard black and are inexpensive. Do you keep one of the hides at the warm end of the tank and one of them at the cooler end of the tank?

I'm going to feed the snake in it's home tank. I'm not going to transfer back and forth. I plan on handling it as much as possible (reasonably) so it shouldn't confuse me for food.

I plan on insulating the tank with probably cork board and foil tape on the sides and then foil and duct tape on the lid.


Does anyone have recommendations on how to secure the lid? I want to keep it as closed to locked as possible. I've seen a terrarium that has a slide in place lid and two holes align to fit a lock or nail through. Is there another method of securing a lid other than that or just putting a weight on it?

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You want to keep the depth of the substrate low because you are using a form of belly heat and the heat needs to find a way to get through the substrate. Please remember to monitor the hot and cool side temps on the glass under the substrate!! Very important!!

Argentra will need to address closing the lids, but I seem to recall others using those office supply clips...?

Oh yeah, the hides: keep one on the cool side and one on the warm side.

Lastly, remember that it takes over a week to get the tank stabilized once you have everything hooked up.

Ooops, you never mention a THERMOSTAT. Do you have one?? You need one.

:) There are a few options for keeping a loose screen lid closed, but the one that has worked best is called ESU 'Tough-Top' Screen clips. They are solid metal clips with an angled 'L' shape that hold onto the edges of the screen top and clamp it down to the top edge of the tank. They are relatively cheap and quite strong (my year old female BP hasn't managed to budge them yet). :)

Here, here Argentra! :gj:

The office clips would work for a while on the tubs, but won't work on screen lids and tanks. You need to get the metal clips that sort of snap on.

With aspen, your thermostat and thermometer probes need to be under the bedding and on the glass so that even IF he burrows, he won't get burned. When I had a heat lamp on the top of Flurry's 10g tank, the thermostat probe was inside the hide.

I'm getting confused as to all the different measurement tools I need for monitoring things. So far I've heard a few different kinds and could someone please clear up what they all are for and how/where to put them?

- thermostat
- hygrometer
- rheostat
- thermometer

If someone could please explain the need/use for those and where to place them for proper monitoring/measurements, that would be great.

Thermostat-
This is hooked up to the heat pad under your cage to keep the belly heat at a constant temp, preferably 88-94. Heat pads without a thermostat normally run up to 115, and this will burn your snake, the thermostat keeps it steady by either restricting electricity to the pad when needed, or turning it on and off for desired temps, just like in a house. This measures temps with a probe that you can run into the cage, most tape it down to the glass so it doesn't move and mess up the temps.

Thermometer:
This is to measure your temps, You need a digital with a probe, or a temperature Gun, The probe is cheaper, but i love the guns. With this you need to place the probe in the cave, with the probe pressed tightly against the ground, this will give you the surface temperature of the spot, so you can adjust the thermostat to give the right temps. A probe can be left inside 24?7 constantly telling the temps at a glance. These range from $5-20, Tempguns are instant, you point and click and get it, very accurate, and range from $20+, You may also want another thermometer, this may be a digital without a probe if you want to measure ambient temperatures to make sure the air temp is not too cold, You can get one with a hydrometer build in as a two in one. Non digital meters of any type are very innacurate, and misrepresent the temps, which may be bad for the snake.

Hydrometer:
This measures humidity in the cage, Though opinions on this can vary, you want between 40-60% humidity, and whent he snake is shedding you can bump it up to 70%. A digital hydrometer is supperior to the non-digital as the non-digital can be very innacturate.

Rheostat-
This is basically a dimmer switch that you plug into a electrical device. If your house or apartment has a steady tempurature that does not fluctuate, you can use this and just dimm down the heat pad to the right level. If it does fluctuate, you have to get a thermostat. In any case a thermostat is safer, but these can work in some cases. They work great when using additional heat like a Ceramic Heat emitter to dimm it to the right level.

As for getting them, Heres some examples:
Thermometer with probe:
http://www.reptilesupply.com/product...roducts_id=392

Tempgun:
http://www.tempgun.com/order.html#pe1

Thermostat:
http://reptilebasics.com/Ranco-ETC-1...d-p-16172.html

Hydrometer/Ambient thermomiter:
http://www.reptilesupply.com/product...roducts_id=655

With the tempgun/probe, get one or the other, I use both, but its not needed.

Breeders:
My snakes from RCreptiles, he is super friendly, for a ball python he eats great, is nice looking, and healthy. All you can really ask for. Plus very professional and friendly, and great packaging, Ron gets a thumbs up all around IMO.

Other breeders listed are very reputatuble too, (I have not used them).

As for astro-turf, It works ok, and I liked it, my snake liked it, and it looks clean, but You do need 2 peices if you use it, so you can take the dirty peice out, Clean it off, let it dry, and you can swap. I now use Repti-bark and I love it, but yet to have a mess to clean up in it, so that will be the test. It does hold humidity great though without getting wet/moist, and looks good, and is pretty soft, and clean looking.

I hated aspen after a few days, I found it dusty and messy, It got all over and was a pain to feed on. But many do like it, Just find what you like.

Luckily substrates are not that expensive so you can experiment a tad.

Everything else has basically been covered, My advice now is this, Read as many caresheets as possible, for each breeder you see, read there caresheet. Find the methods of care, and reason behind each, and then see if these theories make sense. Find out the similarities between all the caresheets, what overlaps is probably a safe place to start as far as care.

Good luck,
Ben

Ben- Most people who keep snakes do not use astro-turf and keeper urge against the use of it. It breeds disease.

For a temp gun, may keepers use this one from Reptile Basics: http://www.reptilebasics.com/412L-No...e-p-16288.html It's important to not have to keep buying the same item over and over and just go with what works from the start.

Many many people prefer Helix and Herpstat thermostats over any other brand. They are both amazing and do the job for you so you don't need to worry about your snake. Reptile Basics sells Helix, but if you're closer to the west coast then you might want to just order directly from the company: http://helixcontrols.com/

You can order a Herpstat from their website http://spyderrobotics.com/

For a thermometer, many people use the Acurite and you can it find it many places including Lowes, walmart, etc.

If choosing aspen as a substrate, just get quality aspen and you wont have the dust issues. I get triple milled from Harlan-Teklan.

As you can see, there are differences of opinion everywhere. There are also some bottom lines: Astro turf is bad for snakes. You need a thermostat, you need a device to measure ground temps, air temps and humidity. You need 2 enclosed hides that will seem small to you but fine for the snake. You need a source of heat (UTH, flex watt, or radiant heat panel).

Keep reading. Keep asking questions. Keep taking notes. There are 2 awesome books; one written by Kevin McCurley and the other by Dave and Tracy Barker and I recommend them both. Here's Kev's book http://www.newenglandreptile.com/book.html and here's the Barker's book http://www.vpi.com/pythons_of_the_world_vol_2_0

Keep asking. :gj:

McKinsey, newspapers ARE printed with vegetable-based inks.. I've been keeping my snakes on newspaper since 04 and no deaths. There are breeders who have been using newspaper for 20-30 years and their snakes are fine.

Glad to hear that snakes are fine but not all papers are printed in vegie inks. Take mine for instance...please....!

You couldn't have come to a better place to get all the help you want on your new BP! The members here are absolutely wonderful and oh so helpful! If it wasn't for the help I received when we first got our BP, there is no telling what kind of condition Foster would be in today. But, because of all the help I received, she is a healthy, thriving youngin'.

I also wanted to toss in my two cents....about feeding. I'm sure some will disagree with me but it's what works for us. Foster belongs to my 13 yo son. He takes care of all the cleaning, feeding, handling, etc. I keep a close eye on temps/humidity.

We feed in a seperate 10gal glass enclosure because my son is more comfortable doing so. He heard that they can be more aggressive when feeding in their everyday enclosure and even though I've told him it's a myth he still is more confortable feeding in a feeding tank. And also, because there is paper in the feeding tank, we don't have to worry about her eating any substrate while taking the prey down.

Also, something else that I don't recall being mentioned, is to make sure you have a good mite prevention method, like PAM! That other stuff that is sold in the petstores is not nearly good enough, IMO! This last bag of substrate we got was loaded with mites. There were more dead mites in her water in one soak than the combined number of mites we've seen since owning her. (I don't think I'll get Exo-Terra substrate again!)

Good luck with your new BP!

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Originally Posted by TanyaL

You couldn't have come to a better place to get all the help you want on your new BP! The members here are absolutely wonderful and oh so helpful! If it wasn't for the help I received when we first got our BP, there is no telling what kind of condition Foster would be in today. But, because of all the help I received, she is a healthy, thriving youngin'.

I also wanted to toss in my two cents....about feeding. I'm sure some will disagree with me but it's what works for us. Foster belongs to my 13 yo son. He takes care of all the cleaning, feeding, handling, etc. I keep a close eye on temps/humidity.

We feed in a seperate 10gal glass enclosure because my son is more comfortable doing so. He heard that they can be more aggressive when feeding in their everyday enclosure and even though I've told him it's a myth he still is more confortable feeding in a feeding tank. And also, because there is paper in the feeding tank, we don't have to worry about her eating any substrate while taking the prey down.

Also, something else that I don't recall being mentioned, is to make sure you have a good mite prevention method, like PAM! That other stuff that is sold in the petstores is not nearly good enough, IMO! This last bag of substrate we got was loaded with mites. There were more dead mites in her water in one soak than the combined number of mites we've seen since owning her. (I don't think I'll get Exo-Terra substrate again!)

Good luck with your new BP!

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What do you do with the Pam? Just use it when you notice the mites?

I keep a can (or two) around all the time and I use it on any new enclosure I put together as a preventative measure. In other words, I treat each new cage with a dose of PAM (Provent-A-Mite) to prevent/kill any mites from the start.

When using it, though, you have to follow the directions very closely. It's quite toxic if used wrong.
And yes, most mite sprays in pet stores aren't worth the plastic bottle they come in. I only have a bottle of Jurrasi-Mite on hand for use on the snakes themselves as a temp relief, since you CANNOT use PAM on any part of the animal.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Argentra

I keep a can (or two) around all the time and I use it on any new enclosure I put together as a preventative measure. In other words, I treat each new cage with a dose of PAM (Provent-A-Mite) to prevent/kill any mites from the start.

When using it, though, you have to follow the directions very closely. It's quite toxic if used wrong.
And yes, most mite sprays in pet stores aren't worth the plastic bottle they come in. I only have a bottle of Jurrasi-Mite on hand for use on the snakes themselves as a temp relief, since you CANNOT use PAM on any part of the animal.

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Then I should probably pick up a can. Do I have to order it online?

Most likely but not certainly. I get mine at my nearby reptile store, with a secret discount so I can afford it. ;) It would probably be cheaper to order it online. There's a site that everyone uses, but I don't know it. :oops:

Maybe someone will chime in.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Johnny Hive X

I also read elsewhere that astro-turf works as a decent substrate. Has anyone tried this?

I really would like to feed it live food - it just looks so much cooler, but I definitely don't want my snake being hurt.

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Well not sure some one already commented on this cuz I havnt read all the posts.

I feed my ball python live and also put him in another tank when feeding time comes. I have only really had him for maybe 3-4 months but he has never been bitin. I would just simply watch him if you feed him live don't leave him alone with his food. Putting him in another tank never seems to stress him out at all I always get excellent feeding responses from him. I guess it just depends on your snake.
I also keep my snake in a tank 20 gallon turanium (not that I can spell that lol) I use aspen snake bedding. I like the looks of a tank better then a tub. I really want people to see him when they come over to my house and that is just more eye catchy :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Argentra

I keep a can (or two) around all the time and I use it on any new enclosure I put together as a preventative measure. In other words, I treat each new cage with a dose of PAM (Provent-A-Mite) to prevent/kill any mites from the start.

When using it, though, you have to follow the directions very closely. It's quite toxic if used wrong.
And yes, most mite sprays in pet stores aren't worth the plastic bottle they come in. I only have a bottle of Jurrasi-Mite on hand for use on the snakes themselves as a temp relief, since you CANNOT use PAM on any part of the animal.

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Yup- me too! I always have PAM in my snakey first aid kit :D
I also keep instant warmers for when the electricity goes out and for vet trips, extra parts for my t'stats, money for vet bills, socks (to put warmers in), extra t'stat, and...jeez, I should look in the box- I've forgotten what all I have in there!! :P

Quote:

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Originally Posted by starmom

Yup- me too! I always have PAM in my snakey first aid kit :D
I also keep instant warmers for when the electricity goes out and for vet trips, extra parts for my t'stats, money for vet bills, socks (to put warmers in), extra t'stat, and...jeez, I should look in the box- I've forgotten what all I have in there!! :P

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You know I never thought of instant warmers for power outages I should def get that for my snakey first aid kit aswell. :D What an excellent Idea!

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Originally Posted by Siarah

You know I never thought of instant warmers for power outages I should def get that for my snakey first aid kit aswell. :D What an excellent Idea!

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Just make sure you put them into tube socks so that the snakes don't get burned. Also, check how many hours they are rated for. I have short hour one's that get hot instantly and last until my 60 hour warmers kick in :)

Hehe...same here. I have tubs full of extra gear, from a big stack of the instant warmers (this IS Colorado) to spare t-stats and rheostats, to a box full of digital thermometers and low watt bulbs. :) I even have spare plastic greenery and branches.

As it is, I have too much extra stuff and have been trying to sell off some of it. :oops:

As for different types of aspen, you can also get what is called Sani-chips. It's Aspen, but it's in small chips and it is not dusty.

I used it for a while, but I found that my snakes would always get chips in the water bowl, making a mess. I also found that it tended to get all over my snake room...if I'd had a wet/dry vacuum it wouldn't have bothered me as much.

I went back to newspaper.

Heh, yeah... since I use aspen for my rodents as well as my snakes it gets ALL OVER the apartment. We know it's time to vacuum when we find it in places like the bathroom and kitchen. :oops: Still, after many substrate trials I like it better than any other. I don't like using just paper because I have corn snakes that live to burrow. :)