Looks like I'm building a rack

So I have been thinking about it ever since I caught the BP bug, and found out racks are the best and most economical way to house BP's.
I currently only have 2 female BP's, but I have made steps to change that. I put down a deposit on a pastel, and in talks about acquiring a spider and a mojave.
This is a picture of the rack I have in my mind, I'm more of a visual learner, so I figure if you guys saw it it would be the best way for you guys to help me out.
http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n5/jntwbh/rack.jpg
The number in tub is it's quart size. All the shelf will be the same height, all the Sterilite tubs pretty much are.
I have read over and over that it is best to have 1/3 of the tub over the belly heat, so I figure I will put only 1/3 of the smaller tubs over the flexwatt.
I'm planning on a Herpstat, everyone raves about them on here and I figure I might as well get a good one.
So what do you all think? Am I on the right track?

looks good to me

When you get finished with this one, it'll be time for your 6qt baby rack :D

I plan on breeding, but I don't think I will really make any money in it. I just hope to support my new found hobby. Maybe a couple new addition here and there. I'd be more than happy with that.

I have sorta come up with a different design, and my buddy (amateur carpenter) said he would be willing to help.
I am going to use 11 inch Flexwatt for my 41 quart tubs, but I don't need it for any of the other ones. I wanted to use 4 inch Flexwatt for the smaller tubs. I know the different sizes of Flexwatt run different wattages, so would I be able to use the same thermostat for both heat tapes?

I am looking at your current set um and doing the 2 41qt tubs long ways like that is going make your rack a least 6 feet wide. Which means if you do it right you can get 2 41qts on the bottom and 3 32qt tubs long ways on the other and 8+/- 12qt tubs per level.

:gj:

On my original design, I planned on having the 41 qts deep wise, so the rack would be around 3 feet wide. My new/current design, is to place the 41 qt tub long ways, being 3 feet wide. So basically 6 levels of 3 foot wide shelving. I only have 2 females right now, and all the additions I am planning on getting this summer are hatlings/yearlings. So I will mostly need smaller tubs to house them in.
I think I am thinking to much. I do this with everything. If I build something secure, and just put my BP's in the right size tubs, then they will be fine.

Something that I do to allow different sized tubs in the same rack is to do multiple depths.

For instance I built hatchling/juvie racks with 12qts on the bottom and 6qt on the top. They are all the same width but the 6qt rack isn't as deep (15 inches I think instead of 18).

It's basically like building 2 racks and stacking them on top of one another using metal or wood dowls and holes to hold them together.

In your case you could do it with 3 :)

Also something to consider is that with one thermostat and different kinds of heat tape you will have different heat results. 90 degrees on the 11 inch won't be 90 degrees on the 4 inch or 3 inch because they run at different wattages to attain certain temps.

I would suggest using 4 inch everywhere but running multiple rows of it on the 41 qt containers (3?)....and maybe 2 on the 32 if you want.

Hope that helps,

Bingo..If I may offer a suggestion look at doing two racks one that will house the 41 qt racks and one that will do the 32qt tubs and then you will be set no matter what

I think I am going to build a 6 qt rack first, then a larger one in the later part of summer. With the exception of one, all my additions this summer are going to be hatchlings.
How long can a BP live in a 6 qt tub until they need to move on? At what weight do they usually need to move up?
So, to heat a 6 qt rack, most people use back heat. Who out there has 6 qt racks of there own? What do you use?

In all honesty I would not build a 6qt unless you plan on big time breeding and selling. Our little ones moved out of the 6 qt tubs quick! A 16 Qt something like this:
http://mysite.verizon.net/david_amon...es/15qt2X9.JPG
Will hold them up to around 800 grams and you just make sure to use small hides and a larger water dish to take up space until they reach about 250 to 300 grams.

Then from around that 800 gram to about 1500 grams we use 32 QT. After that they go in the big 41 Qt tubs.

I do have a 12 unit 6 qt rack that is sitting empty right now since all our balls have out grown them. Once we start breeding and have enough eggs in the incubator that selling off our hatchlings after 3 or more good meals is what we want to do I will have to build more 6 Qt racks. Until then they are pretty much a waist of space since most snakes will out grow them in 3-4 months if they are being fed for growth and not just maintenance fed.

I came up with a design that has 5 41/32 qt slots, and 2 levels that I can slide 6 qt tubs in with back heat. When they grow out of that I can replace the 6 qts with 16 qts.
Once my females come of age I will build a 6 qt rack, but that wont be for a couple years.
I just really don't want to build something that won't be of any use in a year or two, so if I make the mistake a little big thats fine. I'm not going to fill up all my tubs this summer, but that just leaves more room for additions when the time is right.

Ok, so I just came up with another design I am pretty set on. I have come to the realization that I don't need a 41 qt slot until my girls get pretty darn big. So I will hold off on that for now and stay with a simple 32 qt design.
But, my question now is (that everyone has faced), what thermostat do I buy? My budget, for now, is an issue. I will be able to spend more money later in summer, when I can save up more, but I would like to get this thing built in the next month. I have a snake on hold, and clutches are starting to hatch.
I can get a Johnson, flexwatt and wire/clip/insulator set for $140, which I would be able to order soon.
But they don't sell Herpstats on Reptile Basics, and that would be the proportional I would consider. The Herpstat would be $60 more, including shipping from another source.
I have heard many say proportionals are the way to go, and I can see why. But this is not a very big rack, 8 32 qts tubs.
I would love some input.
I live in southern California, so room temps vary from 70 in the winter, and 90 in the summer. I am will seek help later on insulating the rack over winter to keep temps up.
Thanks.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Papa Burgundy

But, my question now is (that everyone has faced), what thermostat do I buy? My budget, for now, is an issue. I will be able to spend more money later in summer, when I can save up more, but I would like to get this thing built in the next month. I have a snake on hold, and clutches are starting to hatch.
I can get a Johnson, flexwatt and wire/clip/insulator set for $140, which I would be able to order soon.
But they don't sell Herpstats on Reptile Basics, and that would be the proportional I would consider. The Herpstat would be $60 more, including shipping from another source.
I have heard many say proportionals are the way to go, and I can see why. But this is not a very big rack, 8 32 qts tubs.
I would love some input.
I live in southern California, so room temps vary from 70 in the winter, and 90 in the summer. I am will seek help later on insulating the rack over winter to keep temps up.
Thanks.

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Anyone?

Proportional are the way to go as they regulate the heating element into a tighter band than an ON/Off type will. The On/Off is better than a rheostat or nothing at all. The rheostat is the Yugo (gets you there but you may have to push it at times), the On/Off is the Chevy (It does the job), the Proportional is the Cadillac (Not only does it get you their but in style and comfort). Flex Watt should never be used with anything less than an On/Off type T-stat. Your more inexpensive method will work using the Johnson T-stat and Flex Watt. On the other hand I think most people would rather use a proportional T-stat over an On/Off due to the tighter control it has and the added features of alarms and such available on the Herpstat ND, II, or Pro step them up from the basic Cadillac to a fully equipped BMW convertible.

Alright, so I should get a proportional. End of story. So now here my dilema...

I can get all my tape, wires etc., and a helix for around $200 from Reptile basics.
OR
I can get a Herpstat from Spyder Robotics shipped for about $120, and my wires and tape for $60. Total of $180.

What do you think is the best call. I lean more towards a Herpstat, but have heard great reviews on both.

Also, when I buy a proportional, regardless of what one I choose, do they come with a power cord and all the necessities?

Thanks Gloryhound, I appreciate all your help.

Everyone I spoke to advised me on Herpistat or Ranco. I got one of each I like th Herp better!

Hope this helps....

~Hollie~:snake:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Papa Burgundy

Alright, so I should get a proportional. End of story. So now here my dilema...

I can get all my tape, wires etc., and a helix for around $200 from Reptile basics.
OR
I can get a Herpstat from Spyder Robotics shipped for about $120, and my wires and tape for $60. Total of $180.

What do you think is the best call. I lean more towards a Herpstat, but have heard great reviews on both.

Also, when I buy a proportional, regardless of what one I choose, do they come with a power cord and all the necessities?

Thanks Gloryhound, I appreciate all your help.

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I don't think the basic Herpstat or Helix really does not have any major differences other than the probe on the basic Herpstat is a plug in type unit so if it ever has a problem you order another $20 probe. Compared with the Helix you have to send the unit in. With this said I have yet to have a probe go bad and neither my two Helix units or two Herpstat Pros have given me any problems. That makes it a personal choice for me at this time and I say Herpstat, but that is just me. If you can swing the little extra get the Herpstat ND (Night drop) as it adds alarms and other features that are nice to have around. Hopefully you have someone close by to help out a little with the flex watt your first time trying it. If not someone on-line here can direct you to the write up most preferred by members on the site at this time. I do things differently and if you PM me I can direct you to another forum where I posted one of my earlier methods of doing it before I spent the money and bought the proper crimping tool. I would post it here, but I feel it can be a little tacky posting links to other forums on an established forum. So I avoid it when I can.

I would go with the Herpstat II for now.
Helix is doing a big redesign and so I would wait for the new ones to come out if time were on your side.
I have both Helix's and Herpstat's and they are both terrific units and Helix and Spyder Robotics both have great customer service (Dion at SR and Jeff at Helix).
I would get the Herpstat II over the Pro because it can handle higher wattage. I would get the II over the ND because you might want that feature in the future.
I think it's a good idea to put hatchlings in a 6qt tub as I feel it increases the chances for promoting excellent feeding responses ;)

If I were to buy at Reptile Basics, which I am planning on, wouldnthey 'crimp' it for me? My Dad is in the process of building a 55 Chevy 2 door, and has built motorcycles all his life, so if I need any help with wiring he'll have my back.
This rack is only going to be 4 shelves high, 3 feet wide, and I'll be using 4 inch Flexwatt. So thats 3ft x 8 watts per foot= 24 x 4 shelves= 96 watts. A 500 watt capacity thermo should be plenty.
And I won't need night drop for a while, at least another year till be females are up to breeding size, right? Or should you lower temps ate every age? I am planning on building a 41 qt rack next year when they need it, which will definitely have a night drop thermo.
Plus I don't have a male to mate her with, not yet! Should be getting him next week.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Papa Burgundy

If I were to buy at Reptile Basics, which I am planning on, wouldnthey 'crimp' it for me? My Dad is in the process of building a 55 Chevy 2 door, and has built motorcycles all his life, so if I need any help with wiring he'll have my back.
This rack is only going to be 4 shelves high, 3 feet wide, and I'll be using 4 inch Flexwatt. So thats 3ft x 8 watts per foot= 24 x 4 shelves= 96 watts. A 500 watt capacity thermo should be plenty.
And I won't need night drop for a while, at least another year till be females are up to breeding size, right? Or should you lower temps ate every age? I am planning on building a 41 qt rack next year when they need it, which will definitely have a night drop thermo.
Plus I don't have a male to mate her with, not yet! Should be getting him next week.

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You would have to contact Reptile basics, as I have done all my own wiring, as far as getting the flex Watt pre-wired.

Yes 400 Watts or 500 Watts will be more than enough to handle the approximately 100 Watts. Ideally if you use the proportional T-stat the only time it will see full load is during start up or after a power outage.

The Herpstat ND adds other features other than the night drop feature which some people find useful. It adds a high and Low alarm that can be set in 1/10ths of a degree from your set point. This means if you set the High alarm to 2 degrees and the low alarm to 4 degrees and set the actual temp on the T-stat to 90 degrees if the temp ever exceeds 92 degrees the herpstat will beep out an audible alarm and if the temp drops to 86 degrees the same will hold true. Issues have come up in the past where the temp probe was knocked off the heating element and caused the T-stat to turn full on. With the low alarm set above room temperature you actually would have a chance of discovering this shortly after it happened instead of after it cooked your snake. A nice option, but most of us keep an eye on the probe when we slide tubs in and out anyway which means we would see it. Then again if you are in a little hurry you might miss it!

If you are tight on budget though my opinion would be the basic herpstat is better than anything you could find for less than its cost. Don't need to be spending money you don't have if you can avoid it, while still keeping a good level of safety for your snakes.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Papa Burgundy

If I were to buy at Reptile Basics, which I am planning on, wouldnthey 'crimp' it for me? My Dad is in the process of building a 55 Chevy 2 door, and has built motorcycles all his life, so if I need any help with wiring he'll have my back.
This rack is only going to be 4 shelves high, 3 feet wide, and I'll be using 4 inch Flexwatt. So thats 3ft x 8 watts per foot= 24 x 4 shelves= 96 watts. A 500 watt capacity thermo should be plenty.
And I won't need night drop for a while, at least another year till be females are up to breeding size, right? Or should you lower temps ate every age? I am planning on building a 41 qt rack next year when they need it, which will definitely have a night drop thermo.
Plus I don't have a male to mate her with, not yet! Should be getting him next week.

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You bet. Call Rich and let him know what you're doing and etc. He's the greatest guy and will be invaluable with answering any questions you have. You can go ahead and order the Helix from him also, if that's the way you want to do that. Just talk to Rich.
Oh yeah, you can also get a night drop plug-in thing with Helix if you choose to go that route!

I'm trying to order a Herpstat from SpyderRobotics.com, but I can't figure out how to register for them. Whats the deal?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Papa Burgundy

I'm trying to order a Herpstat from SpyderRobotics.com, but I can't figure out how to register for them. Whats the deal?

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We order ours from beanfarm.com!

Ok, on there right now.
What is the diference between the grounded version and the basic?

Also, I just ordered my FlexWatt and clips. If I order the Herpstat, does it come with a power cord to connect the FlexWatt into?

Your design looks similar to mines! I don't have anything in it yet because I haven't bought the flex watt or thermostat. But mines hold 8 Hatchlings 3 Subs and 2 Adults. I will be making another one pretty soon to hold 10 adults. Have a look:D !

http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/j...n/DCAM0051.jpg

http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/j...n/DCAM0054.jpg

http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/j...n/DCAM0055.jpg

http://mysite.verizon.net/david_amon...es/15qt2X9.JPG

Where did you get that long power brick thingy?

-Chris-

Quote:

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Originally Posted by AVALover5498

http://mysite.verizon.net/david_amon...es/15qt2X9.JPG

Where did you get that long power brick thingy?

-Chris-

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Lowes! Don't waste your money unless appearance is really important. It cost $35.00+ ! You can get two cheap power strips for less than $10 and do just as well.

YYYAAAAAHHHHHHHHOOOOOOOOOO!

Got paid today, so I just ordered my Herpstat!

Ok, so I goy my Herpstat a few days ago and hooked it up to my FLexwatt. I haven't built the rack yet, so I laid the tubs over the Flexwatt and set them on the carpet next to my bed. I set the desired temperature to 91, give or take .5 a degree.
Anyway, hooked up the probe and everything. Temps were good for a while, then put the tubs on there, and then the temperatures were all over the place. They were no lower than 87, but one of my thermometers said it reached 107!
I have three tubs on this one piece of 4'' Flexwatt, and all three read different temperatures at the same time.
Does Flexwatt have hot spots? Can you not lay it on carpet? What is the deal with this? Thermostats are supposed to rid you of events like this.
Any and all input or help is appreciated.
I don't want to have to get out the UTH's and lamp dimmers again.

Little help here guys

Hi,

Could it be because the carpet isn't a solid base that keeps the flexwatt at a constant distance from the tubs?

Are the tubs all sealed at the top to allow the heat to build up rather than escape as the next shelf in the rack would do?

Are there any drafts or other temperature affecting environmental conditions (windows, doors, ac units) ?

Have you tried just taking it on trust and building the unit? :P

Honestly not sure those are just a few ideas to help you get started figuring it out.


dr del

What are you using to read the temperatures on the bottom of each tub? (If you are using a heat gun put a piece of black electrical tape on the bottom of each tub to take your measurements on. Clear plastic has a really poor Emissivity, but I won't go into the details here how that could affect your readings.)

Pressure has a lot to do with heat transfer as well. I would try to put the flex Watt on a solid surface and the tubs as well. Put a couple pounds of weight in each as well. (2-4 lbs should be good.) I'm leaning towards #1 as your reading are higher than the probe on the flexwatt.

I have one Accurite thermometer in each tub. The probe of the thermometer is taped to the bottom where snakes lay, just above the heating element.
I'll try placing the tubs on a flat, hard surface, see what that does.

I put the tubs on a long piece of flat, thick paper. Amost cardboard.

I have readings of 88, 92, and 96 while the Herpstat is set to 89.

This is realy starting to %$^*&($ piss me off.

That's basically my plan for my rack!
And I'll make a rack for hatchlings when I'm on my way to breeding.

Hi,

Won't the paper still bend an flex too much?

Can't you try it using the shelving you plan to use to build the rack?

If it's not going to even out even then perhaps using some kind of sheet metal might help even things out? Hopefully you get it sorted.


dr del

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Papa Burgundy

I have sorta come up with a different design, and my buddy (amateur carpenter) said he would be willing to help.
I am going to use 11 inch Flexwatt for my 41 quart tubs, but I don't need it for any of the other ones. I wanted to use 4 inch Flexwatt for the smaller tubs. I know the different sizes of Flexwatt run different wattages, so would I be able to use the same thermostat for both heat tapes?

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You could get the herpstat 2, which has two outputs.

Hope this helps.

I'd build the rack and then test. Comparing the temps while on the rug is a good effort, but its like comparing apples to oranges.

Build the rack, then test out your temps. They will vary some what... but as long as they are within limits you should be good.

Keep in mind, if the tstat is not proportional, then temps will vary from your setting either up or down 5 degrees...

If I were to build a rack using 3/4'' melamine, 3 ft wide, 2 ft deep, 43'' high (5 shelves, 6 1/2'' inbetween shelves), do you think it would sag?

If so, what would be the best supports to add. Pics would help greatly.

Thanks.

What size tub are you using?

For the larger sweater boxes and CB-70 type tubs I like to do this to limit the unsupported span:
http://mysite.verizon.net/david_amon...G.w560h747.jpg

For smaller sweater boxes like the 15 qt and shoe box tubs I will do a side by side like this:
http://mysite.verizon.net/david_amon...es/15qt2X9.JPG

But it all comes down to making housing for your reptiles in the smallest amount of space when you build a rack.

I will mostly be housing them in 32 qts. My biggest female is around 1,100 grams, and I have another at 700, and a male at 500.
I think a 32 qt rack would be the best for me right now. Maybe next summer I can build an adult rack.
I have gone through so many different rack ideas to try and incorporate a 41, 32, and 15 qt set up, and have nearly gone insane.
A 32, I think, is the best choice I can make. It can hold 32's and 15's.