» Site Navigation
0 members and 669 guests
No Members online
Most users ever online was 47,180, 07-16-2025 at 05:30 PM.
» Today's Birthdays
» Stats
Members: 75,905
Threads: 249,104
Posts: 2,572,098
Top Poster: JLC (31,651)
|
-
flexwatt question
I have decided to just make my own rack. I have one question though can I wire my pieces of flexwatt in parallel like this or does each piece need its own power supply ie, powercord. thanks. Please bare with my crude drawing. lo.l
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y27...r/flexwatt.jpg
-
Re: flexwatt question
Yep you can wire them parallel.
Scroll down on this page to see
http://arbreptiles.com/cages/iris_rack/iris_rack.shtml
-
Re: flexwatt question
ok cool I didnt see any problem in doing it but just wanted to make sure.
-
Re: flexwatt question
lol just found a pdf on wiring in parallel on bean farm heheh
-
Re: flexwatt question
I have 15 racks that are run in parellel, some have been running for 5 years. I have never had a problem. Just thought I would throw in a little real world experience for comfort.
-
Re: flexwatt question
Quote:
Originally Posted by sg1trogdor
I have decided to just make my own rack. I have one question though can I wire my pieces of flexwatt in parallel like this or does each piece need its own power supply ie, powercord. thanks. Please bare with my crude drawing. lo.l
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y27...r/flexwatt.jpg
Your diagram is a series connection not Parallel! I don't think it is recommended that you run flexwatt in series!
-
Re: flexwatt question
Aren't you supposed to zig-zag on a rack?
-
Re: flexwatt question
Quote:
Originally Posted by starmom
Aren't you supposed to zig-zag on a rack?
I don't! I've built a couple racks and found the best thing to do is cut a seperate sheet for each level and wire it to a plug. Then I use a power strip to plug them all in. Pay close attention to make sure the length of Flexwatt is the same. I also try to make sure all the power cords are the same, but I don't think a couple extra feet of power cord would make that big of a difference. Using this method I built a 20 unit 15 qt sterilite tub rack and I can only power the levels I am using instead of powering them all and using all the electricity. Utility bills are bad enough without all the various snake heating elements. Why waste it? We only have 14 snakes and only 4 of the 15 qt tubs are currently in use due to current snake size and the fact my wife loves the 4 unit display also!
-
Re: flexwatt question
http://www.beanfarm.com/heating/Flexwatt_parallel.pdf
This is how i wire my 17" flex for my 41 qt. rack. I buy the wire connectors and plastic housings that go over the connectors. I then fill each of the housing connectors with 100% silicone.
[IMG]https://ball-pythons.net/gallery/fil...7/s6_thumb.jpg[/IMG]
-
Re: flexwatt question
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Mojo
The silicone is an idea I had not thought of. I've been using out of date Resin from work which is probably better, but not very many people have access to it and until it dries it is classified as a hazardous material.
I've tried to use the wiring method in the above diagram, but I found if you have one bad connection you throw off all the heating elements after it. I found buying a seperate light duty 6' extension cord for each sheet of flex watt and then plugging them into a power strip that is plugged into the T-stat is the most versital way of doing it. Each cord only costs around a buck fifty at Lowes, but if you are not using tubs in the rack you can unplug then and save the power. With the current cost of electricity you can save the cost of a couple additional power cords by not having to power extra ones all the time! Also energy conservation is eco friendly!
-
Re: flexwatt question
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gloryhound
Your diagram is a series connection not Parallel! I don't think it is recommended that you run flexwatt in series!
That's what I was thinking, but I'm no electrical genius so wasn't sure.
-
Re: flexwatt question
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gloryhound
Your diagram is a series connection not Parallel! I don't think it is recommended that you run flexwatt in series!
the diagram is a bit confusing because it looks like the power flow is going through the flexwatt, where it really isn't.
To be in series, they would need to be linked to where the electrical flow actually had to pass through the heating elements like this:
http://www.cubeskin.com/bpnet/series.gif
-
Re: flexwatt question
Quote:
Originally Posted by ctrlfreq
the diagram is a bit confusing because it looks like the power flow is going through the flexwatt, where it really isn't.
To be in series, they would need to be linked to where the electrical flow actually had to pass through the heating elements like this:
http://www.cubeskin.com/bpnet/series.gif
Yes this is correct looking at it. I forgot that you have to picture the outer edge paths of the flex watt as none resistive heating elements. It is the cross paths in the flex watt that would be considered the resistances in the circuit.
So, I stand corrected and the first is technically a parallel wiring!
Thanks for adding that clarity ctrlfreq.:gj:
I still do not think the first is the best method though as you would be using twice the number of connectors and those connector kits are not cheap! I've tried the solder type connections and have never been happy with the end result.
-
Re: flexwatt question
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gloryhound
I've tried the solder type connections and have never been happy with the end result.
Soldering flexwatt is admittedly more complex than the connectors, but I prefer a well-soldered connection over a simple contact connection any day (which provides it's own resistance). There is a trick to making them work well, but once you get the technique down, it's quick and easy to do.
I just ordered a roll from Rich yesterday, so I'll put together a thread on the method I use when it comes in later this week.
-
Re: flexwatt question
I solder my own connections too using resin core solder and a Weller 140/100 watt soldering gun. You have to be quick using it, or it will separate the copper strip from the plastic, but the cheapy soldering irons don't get hot enough. I got the Weller at Home Depot for $30 I think. My father had one for a good 20-25 years, same model, and it just recently croaked. Good investment :)
-
Re: flexwatt question
Quote:
Originally Posted by SatanicIntention
You have to be quick using it, or it will separate the copper strip from the plastic, but the cheapy soldering irons don't get hot enough.
The way I do it, I just rub a small rectangle in the plastic with the hot iron, and then rub a ball of solder around on it until it vaporizes the plastic. You can tell when this happens, because the solder will go from being a ball to pooling smoothly on the metal strip. Once thats in place, solder the wire to the strip, it will take all of about a second to adhere, and the connection will be solid.
-
Re: flexwatt question
I'd have to see that to know what you're talking about, LOL. What I do is I scrape a square of plastic off with the iron, then use these needle holders(the tips) to scrape the remaining bits of plastic off. I then clamp the wire onto the metal strip, apply the hot iron to the exposed wire that is touching the flexwatt metal strip, and then apply the solder as it heats up. Takes about 15 seconds.
-
Re: flexwatt question
Those methods are similar to what the methods I tried. They worked, but insulating them properly becomes a second issue. I just spent the money on the proper crimping tool and now I can have each piece of flex Watt done in a couple of minutes. Have not had any wasted flex watt since and they all look the same. Also if one connection ever would break I would only loose one tub instead of any further down until I get around to repairs.
|