Built My Rack!

This rack was completely inspired by Halfdawg, here on the forums. I did exacly as he said, and it worked perfectly. Although, somehow mine came out to a grand total of $80 minus the tubs...so, maybe I accidentally stole all the materials.

If you want a right up, lemme know! I did one thing different than the man, I left a gap along the left of the shelf to allow for the wires, now I don't have to drill. No biggie. I should be getting a Helix very shortly, along with my Flex-watt tape.

http://img509.imageshack.us/img509/8514/72524978jb6.jpg
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did you even have to cut anything?

NICE!!!!!:gj:

did you but it pice by pice? Or was it unit

They only had 3 precut pieces, so I had two full sheets cut down at Home Depot. It's free for the first two cuts, then a quarter for the next 10 then a buck per cut for the rest. The thing is, they never notified the front of the cuts, so they were free. Then, I told the boner at the front that these came from two $32 dollar sheets (which is still a steal over the precut) and he only marked down one. Then I think he even gave me the precut for free.

THe accessory stuff was $22, then $3 for pop. So, out of $80, only $55 was actually the wood...

So, yeah. It was piece by piece. Oh, then I don't think he rang up the hardboard either, haha. What luck, huh? I think he was trying and got frustrated and a little embarrassed so he just improvised. haha.

Nice rack! :) I like the step-by-step pictures.

Thank you very much. I really studied the construction of these for a while and actually went to build one earlier this week, but decided against it when the material list took me into the $200 range with the stat and tubs.

Thanks to Dawg, I was able to make a better rack for a third the price. If anyone needs a write up, let me know and I'll edit the first post. Heck, I probably will anyway.

Great Job, Nice looking rack. I liked the way you coverewd the screw heads on the sides.

Time: I took about 2.5 hours to get this done, and I have to admit something…this is the first thing I have EVER built. I mean, aside from a hamburger and a soapbox derby car, this is it. I have never used a square, or a drill, or a screw gun or anything like this, heck, even an iron! So, this is a project suitable for even computer nerds like me.
Materials:
- (9) 23 ¾” x 48” Melamine particle board ($11.99 per precut piece or $31.99 per 8’ x 4’ sheet, which yields 4 smaller pieces.
- (2) pieces of 24” x 48” 3/16” (or your preference thickness) hardwood (~$4.50 each). *Note – these piece are shorter than the width of the shelves as a whole, this is to allow the cord space as seen in the pics. You can instead opt for a full sheet of hardboard and cover the whole back, and then simply drill the cord holes.
- 50’ Malemine Edging. This is Iron-On edging that really makes the shelf look polished. It is very easy to use and inexpensive. I bought (2) 25’ packages.
- 1 case of 1 5/8” drywall screws.
- Up to 18 Sterilite 1756 32 Qt. Clear tubs. I chose 12 of these and 2 74 QT underbed (no wheels) tubs. The 18 QT were $6.99 each and the 74 QT were $13.99 each.
- 2 containers of screw head covers.
- One medium roll of 2” thick foil tape
- A basic surge protector
- (1-6) basic 6’ extension cords ($1). If you want your flew-watt controlled as one unit, and heat always going to every shelf or none, use one. If you want every shelf to be independent and also be able to be unplugged when not in use, use 6. (I opted for 6).
- Flex-watt Heat Tape. I got mine from www.BigAppleHerp.com. They offer many different sizes, but Big Apple offers the clips and cords, too. I am making my own clips by soldering them to the cheap extension cords. I will splice the wires and connect them (these are still in the mail).
- Helix DBS-100 from www.HelixControls.com ($169 with 2nd day air shipping, still in the mail).

1. With all cut boards together, the first step is the hardest. I did not include a kick panel on the bottom, so I simply laid one board flat, the but another up to the flat board at a right angle (I used a carpenter’s square for this). With upright board being held in place I made sure that the back of the shelf was flat (so that the hardboard would mount easily in the future). I made a permanent marker dot about 4” in on each side, and another in the middle. *Make sure the upright board is resting on the ground, not on the flat board. You will short yourself a good inch if you screw them together that way.* Now simply screw the upright board into the flat one, then repeat on the other side. For the second upright board I turned the three on their sides (image 3). You will notice the shelf is a bit wobbly at this point, but that will get corrected.
2. Then turn the shelf back upright to add the new shelves (Image 4).
3. Next, put the two sheets of Hardboard flat on the inside of the bottom shelf. Then place the three 32 QTs (or one 74 QT) on the hardboard (image 6). Next, place the next shelf on top of the tubs. This will give you the height needed for the next shelf while still leaving enough room to slide the tubs out (image 5). But sure when placing the spacer (in my case the hardboard, but it can be anything) that your animals cannot escape through that size gap!). This is where I got down on the level of the shelf and simply eyeballed where the center of the shelf was and marked three dots on the side of the upright. This gave me my three screw locations, similar to the bottom shelf. I found that from screw head to screw head it was about 7”, but I didn’t use that, so eyeball it up or measure yourself. Then simply screw in the three screws and repeat for the other side.
4. In Image 7, you can see the shlves start to come together. You simply repeat step 3 until you get to the top. You could have easily opted for a kickplate at the beginning, and sacrificed that space at the top, I like the space for tall things.
5. Once the shelves are done, I went to the back and attached the hardboard. First, I lined up the left board along the left side and then added the right to see where they would best align. This is where I made the gap intentionally. I could have made the gap bigger or a tad smaller, but this was the best size. I then marked the shelf location on the hardboard and screwed in a screw on every level along each far edge. I then did the same for the other sheet. At this time I mounted my surge protector on the back. This required me to drill out the holes on the surge protector a little bit to fit my screw heads, no big deal. I then went back and put a middle screw in each shelf row.
6. Then I applied the finishing touches. I put the screw caps on all of the screws, and this made a world of difference. It is much friendlier to the eyes at this point. Then I added the Melamine Edging. I heated up the iron and grabbed a piece of printing paper. I measured the distance by eye and cut a strip a tad longer than I needed. Then I held it in place and ironed the paper resting on the edging. This way you don’t melt the edging, the paper protects it. It was very easy, just a little time consuming.
FUTURE
7. Now I need to add the flex-watt Heat tape. There are little clips you can do, but I will be soldering mine. It’s really simple. Find the positive and negative side of the heat tape and the white extension cord. *UNPLUGGED OF COURSE!* cut the receiving (female) end of the extension cord off. Now, using a wire stripper, expose the wires. You can now use the clips to clip the tape, then insert the wires and clamp them or solder them. There is also an option to order the tape WITH clamps and a 6’ wire, that may be the best option. Now simply run the wire out the back of the shelf and tape down the heat tape with the foil tape you have. For Ball Pythons, you will want the tape on the bottom of the shelf to allow belly heat for warmth and digestion. Boas like it on the back, I think. To prevent damage to the heat tape and direct contact with the tubs, I will be adding strips of foil tape directly over the heat tape. It will still transfer heat appropriately.
8. Next, you will install the thermostat, and plug all of the cords from the heat tape into it. Then set the thermostat and you’re ready to roll! You do need to place your probe, though, and that is VERY important. Without this probe in the correct spot, the thermostat might be adjusting the wrong temps. I will be cutting a small chunk of the corner of a Sterilite tub (one I already have, the wife’s shoe box or something) and put the probe on TOP of that and tape that to the top of the heat tape. The reasoning for this is, this almost perfectly simulates a tub thickness on the heat tape. Aside from drilling a hole in one of my actually tubs, this is the closest I can get to accurate. This will show me how the heat tape transfers heat through the foil and the tub thickness…perfect!
Possible additions: I may route out the bottom of each shelf in the future to allow for the heat tape to site recessed in the shelf.
I may route out the top of each shelf in a ¾” line in order to insert tube for a misting system in every tub…that would be sweet. I already did that for one terrarium…that’s the next right up!
Enjoy!

Good to see I'm not the only one who went out and built a rack when they saw the other thread!

Nice looking rack, exact same as mine! I'm just waiting on flexwatt

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Originally Posted by .Matt

Good to see I'm not the only one who went out and built a rack when they saw the other thread!

Nice looking rack, exact same as mine! I'm just waiting on flexwatt

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Are you serious? me too. No cutting, no bull, 18 slot 32 qt rack, friggin great! since none of use installed flexwat yet let me know how that goes, because the three tubs fit perfectly (not much side to side room) let me know if the connector/insulator clips get in the way of the tubs sliding action.

Nice job on the rack. :gj:

I am interested in building this rack with the tax money I get in later this week and I'm curious about how much heat tape you are planning on using. I was going to order 11inch heat tape for this but I was not sure how much I would need. I'd love to hear an update on how much heat tape you end up needing to use and how stable the temps are. Thanks in advance.

HEATING UPDATE!
Ok ladies and gents, I just installed the Flex-watt and the Helix today. I played it cool and ordered only 8' of the 11" heat tape. This was a cheaper alternative and to be honest, I didn't know just how difficult it would be. I also ordered the clips, protectors and wire. The clips came clamped to the wires, so I just needed to attach em. Now, I'm an electronics nerd, so I was well prepared to solder anything, this was so easy I almost did it over just to have a challenege...

I foil taped the heat tape in 4' chunks and then plugged everything in...there was some overhang which is obvious given the lengths of the tape and the shelves. I didnt mind, I simply folded the tape up along the side on the clamp end and taped it there. no biggie, there is still plenty of room to slide the tubs in and out. This fold is also where i taped the probe, on top of some plastic to model a tub.

That's it really. If i can find out how to insert this memory card, I'll upload some pics...EDIT: these are more of the setup. If you want, I can get em of the installation, too.

http://img247.imageshack.us/img247/7671/13lt2.jpg
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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Danegerous

HEATING UPDATE!
Ok ladies and gents, I just installed the Flex-watt and the Helix today. I played it cool and ordered only 8' of the 11" heat tape. This was a cheaper alternative and to be honest, I didn't know just how difficult it would be. I also ordered the clips, protectors and wire. The clips came clamped to the wires, so I just needed to attach em. Now, I'm an electronics nerd, so I was well prepared to solder anything, this was so easy I almost did it over just to have a challenege...

I foil taped the heat tape in 4' chunks and then plugged everything in...there was some overhang which is obvious given the lengths of the tape and the shelves. I didnt mind, I simply folded the tape up along the side on the clamp end and taped it there. no biggie, there is still plenty of room to slide the tubs in and out. This fold is also where i taped the probe, on top of some plastic to model a tub.

That's it really. If i can find out how to insert this memory card, I'll upload some pics...EDIT: these are more of the setup. If you want, I can get em of the installation, too.

http://img247.imageshack.us/img247/7671/13lt2.jpg
http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/421/14df6.jpg
http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/7387/15fu2.jpg

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Lets see it:taz:

alright, let me get some pics and I'll post em.

On this rack, I'm just curious, do you think I could do the bottom two racks with 6qt hatchling tubs and the top with the 32 qt tubs? Also another question I had was I know some of the tubs I see sold from other companies have the dividers, where can I pick up some dividers for the 32 quart tubs for juvies, or would I need to build them myself, and if I do need to build them myself does anyone else know the specs I would need to build them to as to insure the snakes can't get from one side to the other? Thanks.

personally, if it were me, i'd simpldo some careful trimming with scissors on a piece of cardboard. take your time and make it fit like a glove. Then, when your done, grab some particle board or something else inexpensive and use a jigsaw to cut it to shape. Then, grab some little metal elbows or something from the harware aisle and simply screw it in the top of the board, it should act as a clip to hold the middle in place with the cent of the tub...it wouldnt be too terrible..

as for the smaller tubs, follow the exact same procedure, simply instead of using the 32qt tubs when creating the bottom levels, use the 6qt tubs. it will end up leaving you a little extra room on the top level, but thats no big deal as thats just extra storage anyway.

On this rack the 32 qt #1756 and the 15 qt #1754 are the same height. you can use 4 15 qt tubs to cover one row.

I think my next rack is going to be a 15 qt #1754 24 tub rack using 3 inch flexwatt. It will be 4 tubs across and 6 high.

I was thinking of copying this rack but instead of making it 4' high, I would make it 6' high. Since the melamine comes in 8'X4' pieces, I could have the first sheet cut into 2 pieces that are 2'X6' and 1 piece that is 2'X4'. Then 2 more sheets cut into 8 more of the 2'X4' pieces. That gives me the 2 6' tall sides and 9 4' wide shelves. I could probably do a few rows of 74qt tubs on the bottom, then maybe 4 rows of 32qt tubs in the middle and a couple rows of 6qt tubs on top. I might even have room for one more shelf actually. Depends on how high I make the sides of my storage area on top I guess... Will this idea work? Any advice?

i think that would work great. you could even go taller. Just use the tubs for the height and you cant go wrong...

Nice my next one will be very similar

does this rack bow?

Thats great thank you for posting this im going to use this forsure much cheaper. thank you !!!!

One thing I feel I need to add to this thread. I'm in no way an expert at any herp stuff yet but I do know that the "surge protector" you posted is nothing more than a power strip. If there is any power surge in your place then that thing isn't going to do a thing to stop it. You need an ACTUAL surge protector with a good joule rating and that will kill itself for the greater good if it gets overloaded. I know most good tstats have fuses that'll blow in a surge but do you really want to chance it? You can get good Cyberpower surge protectors from places like newegg.com for $20 at most and they'll do the job just fine.

Also, did you wire your heat tape in sequence with some 12 gage wire or did you just do a bunch of individual plugs? I'm guessing the former.

thinking about making my own rack also and want to put in a overcurrent (surge) protection. I am going to simply put a inline fuse on one leg of the lamp cord with about a .5A fuse on there (depending on the type of FW). For example, lets say 1 foot of 11" FW @ 20W. 20W at full on will draw about 170mA (p = v*i). So the way I figure, if that thing starts to pull half an amp it's toast (thats about 60W).

I just made my own rack. I have all the tools at home but I generally get the guys at Rona to cut my wood fo rme. Generally its free :D since I know them and SO much quicker.


I also wonder if your sags at all?

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Originally Posted by ScottyDsntKnow

One thing I feel I need to add to this thread. I'm in no way an expert at any herp stuff yet but I do know that the "surge protector" you posted is nothing more than a power strip. If there is any power surge in your place then that thing isn't going to do a thing to stop it. You need an ACTUAL surge protector with a good joule rating and that will kill itself for the greater good if it gets overloaded. I know most good tstats have fuses that'll blow in a surge but do you really want to chance it? You can get good Cyberpower surge protectors from places like newegg.com for $20 at most and they'll do the job just fine.

Also, did you wire your heat tape in sequence with some 12 gage wire or did you just do a bunch of individual plugs? I'm guessing the former.

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you dont need a surge protector inbetween the heattape and the thermostat(read the directions for the thermostat)
and what would you need 12 gauge wire for!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by cpsinatl

thinking about making my own rack also and want to put in a overcurrent (surge) protection. I am going to simply put a inline fuse on one leg of the lamp cord with about a .5A fuse on there (depending on the type of FW). For example, lets say 1 foot of 11" FW @ 20W. 20W at full on will draw about 170mA (p = v*i). So the way I figure, if that thing starts to pull half an amp it's toast (thats about 60W).

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that wont work at all

has anyone found tubs for this rack that fit like the old sterilite 32qt?

I just built this rack and had the same problems... if you use 28 quarts for male adults and then you can find 41 quart tubs that you jut put in sideways and can have a shoe box tub next to it is plenty big for a adult female :)

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Originally Posted by bobmurffy

I just built this rack and had the same problems... if you use 28 quarts for male adults and then you can find 41 quart tubs that you jut put in sideways and can have a shoe box tub next to it is plenty big for a adult female :)

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That will work, but one word of caution on using the longer tubs sideways... large adult balls can push the sides outward and get their heads inbetween the tub and the rack shelf. Thats the reason you do not see any commercial racks made that way. However you probably could make a stop in the middle of each shelve to prevent this.

Hey nice rak i have a quick Question what size tubs are those i couldnt tell thanks

I was looking around for plans to build a 15 qt rack and I came across this one. But the 15 qt 1754 tubs are discontinued. Does any one think you could use these iris 16 qt tubs for this rack?
http://www.target.com/Iris-Buckle-Up...f=pd_ecc_rvi_1

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Originally Posted by jjsnakedude

I was looking around for plans to build a 15 qt rack and I came across this one. But the 15 qt 1754 tubs are discontinued. Does any one think you could use these iris 16 qt tubs for this rack?
http://www.target.com/Iris-Buckle-Up...f=pd_ecc_rvi_1

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Target sells 15qt. tubs by Sterilite. May not be the same as you're thinking of, but these are what I used. You can buy them separately in the store.
Here is the link.

http://www.target.com/Sterilite-15-q...g%20Box%20Plum


Here is a pict. of my small rack with these tubs.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s...m/100_1854.jpg

If you are building your rack, you can use what ever tubs you want. Just build the rack to the size of the tubs, with or with out lids. Just add your spacer between tub and shelf.

built this today and am pleased good post and thank you

Thank You this thread was very helpful!

easy clean and most important useful!Thanks

Great job! where did you get your tubs?

Thank You all for the info, some good plans and thoughts for me to go to work on.

How did you guys put together your melamine? Screws? Glue? Latches?
I was googling and read that if you screw into melamine (especially by the edges) you risk splitting the board. Is there any way to prevent that?

Pre drill and use screws.