Favorite Snakes - That Are Different

OK I have started a long process of writing a book about snakes, everything from field herping, to husbandry, to selecting a snake. I want to do a whole section on lesser known snakes. So can you provide for me your favorite snakes that are "not typical".

To me typical is ball pythons, corn snakes, all the regular kings and milks, common boas (red tails), common pythons (burms, balls, retics, etc.)

For some examples here are some I have planned to do already

Carpet Pythons (as a general species, not broken into all the "phases"), I know to us they may be common but to a lot of people they never see one in a pet shop etc.

Black Milk Snakes - The responses I get to photos of mine are WOW even from snake people.

House Snakes - Specificly the three most common ones

Asian Rat Snakes - Blues, Taiwans, etc.

Trans Pecos Rat Snakes

When you submit your ideas also state what level of care is required, beginner, intermediate or advanced. Let's not make this a debate just give your opinions and your thoughts on why you like the species and how difficult or easy the care level is.

Thanks for your input,

Oh hey also like you picks for

"big snakes that don't get too big"

These would be snakes that get bigger then a corn but not like a big boa or python.

Some would be on both lists, Asian Rats for Instance and Carpet Pythons would be examples of both.

I was keeping a friend of mines Brazilian Rainbow Boa, and when I would take him out to do pictures, or to the pet store, you'd be surprised how many people didn't know what it was. Also I'd say Hognose snakes. I personally loved them when I was a kid because we had some around our house, but when I was at the last reptile show there were a couple and a lot of people had to ask what they were.

Baja Cape Gophersnake -- Pituophis catenifer vertibralis

Gorgeous colors...don't get too big. They're not as thick as more common gophersnakes. Mine is a male and is four years old....he's about four feet long and about as big around as a fat marker-pen.

I'd say very much a beginner snake. He was hissy and defensive as a little guy, but got over it fairly quickly and adjusted to being handled. Was a very shy eater for years, but as he's matured, he's become more confident in that area as well and pounds his food. Don't try to feed too much or too often, though....has been the lesson I learned with this guy. Our most consistent feeding routine has been to feed a decent sized meal (a mouse a little bit wider than his thickest part) every other week.

Does extremely well at room temperatures, so heroric efforts at achieving the exact right temps aren't necessary. In fact, they don't like heat so much. We keep a red heatlamp above one side of the tank on a dimmer to add a few degrees of gradient and to use if the household temps drop below 70.

Humidity has never been an issue in a glass tank with a screened lid. They're from an arid part of the world and shed fine without any efforts at increasing humidity.

Loves a thick layer of aspen bedding to root around in and bury himself in as well as a couple of snug hides.

Not a "lap snake" by any stretch of the imagination...very active and constantly moving when being held...but still very docile. Even if stressed, he will vibrate his tail like a little rattler, but has never attempted to strike or even hiss since he was a little baby.

Hope that is what you were looking for! :D

Those are two great ones.

I would call the BRB an "advanced snake" due to husbandry requirements but have never kept one so it is all hear say. Would you concur?

The hoggies are great and a good beginner snake too.

Anyone else?

I think various Asian Colubrids is a great idea as well as the various African Colubrids(All of em are cool!).
Also, I think having some sort article on Spilotes

I second the Spilotes. Put them as advanced. Different kind of husbandry when you get into these fast metabolism snakes. Also, they can't be afraid to take some bites and may want to wear goggles lol.
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/DSC02358.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/DSC02335.jpg
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r...e/DSC02347.jpg
And of course the beauties are definitely a good idea. They could maybe be intermediate.
http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r...y/DSC02285.jpg
John

PS. Got any updated pics of the 06 Tai?

John thanks any info you can send me on Tiger Rats would be appreciated, they are on my some day list. I would not have considered them an "advanced" snake so I may be lacking some data on them. My instinct is go CB if you can with a neonate and you will end up with a less bitty snake, :snake:.

Beauties are deffinitely in! On Tai he is just now 14 months and turning into a big boy to say the least. He should shed in the next day or so and I will have my wife shoot me and him together to give a good feel for scale. Best guess is he is just under 6 feet already.

If you're going to do Morelia Spilota (Carpets) I'd cover ALL the Morelia... especially my fave, Morelia Amethistina---Scrub pythons!


Also, the Liasis pythons... Liasis albertisii, White-lipped Python
Liasis olivaceus, Olive Python.


I LOVE Australian pythons!

Yeah Jack I would say advanced, a lot of things combined. First is their size. Able to get over 12 feet, that also requires a huge enclosure with some good height. Second, They have that fast metabolism, always moving like coachwhips and racers. They do better with heat from above like a basking light or ceramic heater as opposed to an undertank heater because they bask in the branches. Third is they are uncommonly available CBB and may cost a little more. Fourth is they can be bite when they want and you can't really avoid it like you can other snakes due to their speed, and they will aim for the face. You may have to use a hook just to get them out of the enclosure.

Not to discourage anyone from getting them, just let them know what they are buying and suggest experience with other big colubrids which aren't quite as fast as them like beauties. They are definitely worth it. Imagine an angry 10 ft snake that is lightning fast biting at your face, that is their potential. Mine is CBB so he has a pretty good temper. I've only taken a few bites and headbutts so far and he tail rattles some but I'm sure he will calm down. I only recently got him so hes still adjusting from the move.

Tai is huge, can't wait to see the pics.

John

Both aspidites species - the woma and the blackheaded pythons.

Both snakes are not fussy about husbandry requirments in terms of temps and humidity, both are fantastic eaters and both have amazing temperments - they even shed very easily. Very active in their enclosures and very interactive and curious of their surroundings.

Blackhead pythons get a bit larger than the woma (8 to 9 feet compared to 6 to 7) and also get thicker.

I would classify both species as good beginner "large" snakes due to their docile natures and general hardiness.

The only caveat is that often their feeding responses are so extreme that caution must be exercised to avoid feeding related strikes.

Our womas and blackheads are the only snakes we have that I actually think like to be held. Our largest male woma will bang on the front of his enclosure when we walk into the room until we take him out.

Our herp vet told me that she would never consider keeping a snake until she met our aspidites. She has now asked if she can have a baby from our next clutch.

Great info John, I knew they could be agressive but was under the impression that CBs were much easier to deal with. Still I was not thinking about the size of an adult and the over all caging requirements. Honestly they require a piece of furniture to house properly because yep they love to climb.

It is not my plan to do full care sheets for each animal just to highlight the lesser knowns with a few points about unique requirements, etc.

I will include Scrubs too ladywhipple02 they are a unique snake as well, deffinitely an advanced animal as well. They get big enough to be dangerous and most don't have the best attitudes. I did meet one though who was way over 12 feet and as tame as any burm I have ever seen. She was a rare one though as her owner had several and she was the only one he considered safe by any means.

Skip I will add them both and great suggestions!

The only issue with either is price. They are both fairly expensive but wonderful snakes. Blackheads are really expensive and hard to find. Hopefully more and more people will breed them and in time pricing will come down some,

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jjspirko

Skip I will add them both and great suggestions!

The only issue with either is price. They are both fairly expensive but wonderful snakes. Blackheads are really expensive and hard to find. Hopefully more and more people will breed them and in time pricing will come down some,

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The womas are starting to come down - my last male I got for $300.00 and he's a beauty - you can get a pair for about $1,200.00 now. It's still a bit hard to get a lone female........

The blackheads will be there in a couple of years.

Erpeton tentaculum

or any Acrochordus.

But if you want terrestrial types, how bout Ungaliophis. That and I'll second the Aspidites.

One more Jack:

The savu python.

Females grow to about 4.5 feet, males to about 3.5 feet or so. The babies have that wonderful orange color and the white eyes can't be beat.rra cotta color.

A very easy to care for snake and definately suitable for the beginner They do like to burrow and mine have appreciated a climbing spot. They are extremely reliable feeders and eat like clockwork.

Savus atart out as nippy, much like the antaresia species but as they mature they become a mellow, handleable snake.

Your right, CB Spilotes are much easier. The key word is potential. I got mine from primareptilia(great people) and they are the only breeders I know selling to the "public". There are a lot of big time keepers working with each other to produce high yellows, Mexican, speckled, etc.

http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showthread.php?t=52017

That is Donnie from primareptilia. I'm sure they want to make sure their customers know what they are getting. I would love for my guy to be calm, but I won't be surprised if he bites. A bite from an 11 ft Spilotes is probably something only an advanced keeper can handle, especially since it will probably be on the face.

And your right on about the piece of furniture lol. Talking 4Wx2Dx4H at least.

John

Great stuff and thanks guy and gals.

Some others I have added to my gowing list now are,

Diadem Snakes
Matlocks
Mole Snakes
African Tiger
Cat Eyed Snakes
Black Pines (heck all pines, gophers, bulls are under appreciated)
Black Necked Garter (stunning snakes)

This is going to be a great book but a bigger project then I have ever done in the past. My last book (on sales) was written with a coauthor (Neil Franklin) in three days in a hotel lobby. This is going to be a LOT more work but fun and something I have been doing reasearch, keeping records, etc to eventually do for more then 20 years, so now is the time.

Keep em comming and any other not so well covered topics you would like to see added let me know. Anyone the helps will get listed as a contributor if you want to be mentioned. Call that my bribe, :devilish:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jjspirko

Those are two great ones.

I would call the BRB an "advanced snake" due to husbandry requirements but have never kept one so it is all hear say. Would you concur?

The hoggies are great and a good beginner snake too.

Anyone else?

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but aren't the hognose toxic?? the bites more dangerous? Someone here (I think it was kalamazoo) got bit by their hog and had to go to the hospital.


We've got the leucistic TX rat, and the Kenyan sand boa. Both easy keepers, and the KSB is definitely one for a smaller size requirement. I really enjoy our Stimson's boy. Very nippy as a baby and sub-adult, and he almost got away at first, but he's since settled in very nicely, and he's easy to care for, not very picky eater except in shed, and in a smaller sized tub setup. :) :) (Maybe he's still considered a sub-adult...I don't know how big he'll actually mature at.)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by sweety314

but aren't the hognose toxic?? the bites more dangerous? Someone here (I think it was kalamazoo) got bit by their hog and had to go to the hospital.


We've got the leucistic TX rat, and the Kenyan sand boa. Both easy keepers, and the KSB is definitely one for a smaller size requirement. I really enjoy our Stimson's boy. Very nippy as a baby and sub-adult, and he almost got away at first, but he's since settled in very nicely, and he's easy to care for, not very picky eater except in shed, and in a smaller sized tub setup. :) :) (Maybe he's still considered a sub-adult...I don't know how big he'll actually mature at.)

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Are they toxic? - their salvia is mildly so, but then again so is human saliva. I think the degree of reaction depends on the individual being bitten.

Maybe there is an allergy component there..........a friend of mine was bitten in a feeding strike and constriction by a Macklott's python and had his hand and wrist swell up like a balloon for about 24 hours. I think we can all agree that macklotts are not considered toxic......

My first snake, when I was 12, was a western hognose.

That snake lived 17 years and I was bit only four times - feeding strikes in which he chewed the heck out of my hand - no reaction.

I would classify them as a good beginner snake providing that tongs are used during feeding and other precautionary feeding day measures are taken.

PS - How did that thermostat work out for you?

First good additional suggetions. I like Texas rats (lucy, normal, albino, high orange) even though they can be pretty mean. Stimsons I consider part of the crowd with spot's, childrens, ants, etc. and they are deffinitely in.

Now on Hogs, they are totally harmless to humans. I don't think anyone here ever went to the hospital for one (could be but I don't remember that) one guy posted pics online of his bite. A bite that was a SFE and lasted a very long time because the guy LET IT CHEW on him for many minutes and took pictures.

His hand swelled up a lot and had a bit of pain, the went down. My wife got a wasp sting a week back and it looked about the same reaction remember "Captain Darwin" :rolleyes: let this snake chew for a long time.

Here is the dingbats pictorial http://www.herpnet.net/bite/

OK I am being to hard on the guy it is pretty cool that he filmed the whole thing because it documented a worse case senario and showed they pose no real threat specificly from a normal bite vs one that chews on you for FIVE MINUTES.

I would certainly consider a Hogg a beginner snake, they almost never offer to bite, wild ones bluff and I have picked them up right in the middle of their show and they play dead. If you get one feeding on rodents there are few snakes easier to care for, they look cool, they are docile, there are many morphs and they stay pretty small.

Anyone else think Hoggs are not a beginner snake? I mean we might call them intermediate because of the potential for a swelling bite? I would call a Madagascar Cat Eyed Snake beginner myself and they have the same if nto slightly higher potential.

Now a Mangrove I would call advanced. They are a LOT more likely to bite and the bite is generally not a medical emergency but from what I have been told more likely to cause a reaction even with a quick bite. Fortunately my psyco I kept for over a year never tagged me, despite his desire to do so.

I seem to remember one of the members here having problems with a bite from a Western Hognose.

http://www.ball-pythons.net/forums/s...t=hognose+bite

OK so far this is the list we came up with,

House Snakes
Carpet Pythons
Black Milks
Black Kings
Asian Rats
Trans Pecos Rats
Rainbow Boas
Gophersnakes (I think I will do all bulls, gophers and pines with pictures of the sub phases)
Various Asaian/African Colubrids (can we get more specific)
Tiger Rats
Scrub Pythons
Woma Pythons
Black Head Pythons
Tenetacled snakes (gonna need to get some info on these)
Marine File Snake (again need info)
Chiapan boa (again need info)
Panamanian dwarf boa (again need info)
Savu Python
Matlocks Python
Diadem Snakes
Mole Snakes
African Tiger Snakes
Cat Eyed Snakes (help assembling a list would be nice, there are many)
Various Garters (Blacknecks are my favorite)

Good start but far from complete, anyone got any more examples of underated snakes. Specificly some more from North America?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by frankykeno

I seem to remember one of the members here having problems with a bite from a Western Hognose.

http://www.ball-pythons.net/forums/s...t=hognose+bite

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Interesting but again I think we have seen that in the only two real reactions to hoggies I have now seen they both allowed the animal to chew for an extended period.

I also agree with the follow up poster that this was more an alergic reaction then a typical reaction. It also sounded to me like there was an infection more then venom at work.

I guess I may consider hoggs, cateyed, etc more an intermediate animal as I think about this, the care is easy enough but the risk is there at least for some small precentage of the population. Feeding with tongs is good practice and apparently both these instances could have been prevented by doing so.

Further anyone with fear of a bite could wear simple garden gloves. Rear fanged colubrids do not have good delivery systems and cloth gloves will not prevent a bite breaking the skin but it will absorb all if not the majority of the venom.

Again with hogs though I think it is more about a reaction to the bite itself then a true venom as such. I got a bite one time from a large mexican black king. He chewed on my hand good, I was holding him but not looking at him and really did not notice being chewed on. This was a big snake and the bite covered 70% of my palm and 70% of the back of my hand.

The bite did not react like the posters but did swell pretty good. Kings are totaly with out any type of venom, he just chewed enough to get some bacteria or something into the wound. Took about 1 hour to swell and itch and then perhaps lasted to some degree for 2 days.

I know plenty of people that got bit by hogs (I am not sure how, I have pressed my finger on the jaw of wild ones with no bite, I can only assume they are all from SFEs) and these are the only two with a real reaction.

So this begs the question, how would you classify true "venomous" snakes that are not dangerous to humans as a rule. Such as Night Snakes, Lyre Snakes and Sand Snakes?

I am thinking these would all to to intermediate with an understanding it is only because of some additional risk and the need for a bit more care in handling.

I would call False Water Cobras, Mangroves, etc advanced more due to how big they get or how hard they are to deal with. Also those two do pose more of a venom risk then those mentioned above. Sure no one died from either but no one has died from a copperhead and I can tell you from experience that a copper head bite is VERY SERIOUS. Death my not result but the necrosis is bad and a bit to a finger or toe can often result in loosing it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jjspirko

Interesting but again I think we have seen that in the only two real reactions to hoggies I have now seen they both allowed the animal to chew for an extended period.

I also agree with the follow up poster that this was more an alergic reaction then a typical reaction. It also sounded to me like there was an infection more then venom at work.

I guess I may consider hoggs, cateyed, etc more an intermediate animal as I think about this, the care is easy enough but the risk is there at least for some small precentage of the population. Feeding with tongs is good practice and apparently both these instances could have been prevented by doing so.

Further anyone with fear of a bite could wear simple garden gloves. Rear fanged colubrids do not have good delivery systems and cloth gloves will not prevent a bite breaking the skin but it will absorb all if not the majority of the venom.

Again with hogs though I think it is more about a reaction to the bite itself then a true venom as such. I got a bite one time from a large mexican black king. He chewed on my hand good, I was holding him but not looking at him and really did not notice being chewed on. This was a big snake and the bite covered 70% of my palm and 70% of the back of my hand.

The bite did not react like the posters but did swell pretty good. Kings are totaly with out any type of venom, he just chewed enough to get some bacteria or something into the wound. Took about 1 hour to swell and itch and then perhaps lasted to some degree for 2 days.

I know plenty of people that got bit by hogs (I am not sure how, I have pressed my finger on the jaw of wild ones with no bite, I can only assume they are all from SFEs) and these are the only two with a real reaction.

So this begs the question, how would you classify true "venomous" snakes that are not dangerous to humans as a rule. Such as Night Snakes, Lyre Snakes and Sand Snakes?

I am thinking these would all to to intermediate with an understanding it is only because of some additional risk and the need for a bit more care in handling.

I would call False Water Cobras, Mangroves, etc advanced more due to how big they get or how hard they are to deal with. Also those two do pose more of a venom risk then those mentioned above. Sure no one died from either but no one has died from a copperhead and I can tell you from experience that a copper head bite is VERY SERIOUS. Death my not result but the necrosis is bad and a bit to a finger or toe can often result in loosing it.

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Are Hognose Snakes Venomous?

isn't duvernoy's gland not used anymore because it was found to be the exact same gland as that in cobras and rattlesnakes? The severity of the bite is based on the individuals reaction so it's kind of how you'll do when something bites you. But hoggies are no boomslangs, and rat snakes are about as bad to get bitten by as a hognose, so don't let it chew on you, but there shouldn't be any huge complications from bites.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by frankykeno

I seem to remember one of the members here having problems with a bite from a Western Hognose.

http://www.ball-pythons.net/forums/s...t=hognose+bite

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Thanks loads, Jo!!! That's exactly the one I was thinking of & made me comment / question the hognose being a beginner snake. Thanks!

BOELENS PYTHON!!!

My Dream snake :)



Mike

Boelens are very cool snakes! One of the most strikingly beautiful there is in the world, all be it with simplicity. Not much of a beginner snake, from pricing alone and some extra husbandry requirements but great addition.

Some others I have come up with

Rufus Beaked Snakes (very cool with bifocal vision to boot) - I would call them a beginners snake, easy to care for, eat anything, they are back fanged but no threat to humans and I have never seen one even bluff a strike let alone bite.

Coachwhip - I would call them advanced based on their high metobalism, somewhat prone to bite and large enclosure requirements. Yet they are quite unique and do adapt well to captivity.

Red Tail Green Rat - These could be beginner or advanced depending on the source. Captive bred are easy to deal with, wild caught are far more difficult. In time I think these will be as common as beauties are today.

Cribos - Specificly other then Indigo (expensive and require a permit). Again advanced because of activity level, enclosure requirements and the fact that a bite can be pretty bad. I would deffinitely recommend capitive bred to all but those looking for breeding stock.

Bairds Rat Snake - Very cool, easy to keep as a corn, highly underated and very affordable.

Mexican Night Snakes - Real cool snakes, again care is like a corn snake. There is a lot of potential to breed new phases. Anery and Amel are now available. Rear fanged but harmless to people.

Rough or Smooth Green Snakes - Simple to care for other then they must be fed often. Beautiful but simple animals that do great in a plant terium. Totally harmless and are good display animals. Not many captive bred specimins available so that could be a cool hobbyist project.

Longnose Snakes - Very cool docile snakes that do not get very large. A challenge to get off of lizards but once on rodents they make great captives. Another possibility to start producing captive bred offspring though doing so has been a challenge.

Radiated Ratsnake - Captive bred are becomming more available including morphs. They are beautiful adaptable snakes. While many have a temper they are not that hard to deal with and CB animals are not very agressive if handled.

Trinket Rats - Kind of a smaller gentler Radiated Rat, easy to care for, easy to breed and different from what everyone else has.

This is just the species section, it is going to take a LONG time to write this book!

angolan pythons kind of expensive but cool

http://www.kingsnake.com/donpatterson/angolan.html

My dream snake and one of two of my favorite snakes is Bothriechis schleglii. Although I will never own one, I hope to be able to photograph them someday in their natural habitat. Now I just have to make it to central american when my husband goes back lol.

I also would love to photograph some old world vipers and see them in person in their natural habitat but from a distance if you know what I mean :)

If I had to pick a snake to keep that would be my fav I would have to say Savu's or Borneo Short Tail.

angolans are deffinitely on the list. Yep they are expensive, :mad: they are not that common and they are native to a prepetiual war zone.

I hope in time more and more will be bred successfully and the price will come down, one issue is they tend to have small clutches much like BPs do,

Not much time this morning. Bull snakes are becoming more and more popular, but I don't think they are considered commonly kept. I have a WC subadult that is absolutely awesome! Much more active, alert, and curious than my BPs. Care is similar to a corn snake.

Steve

Well you guys talked about hognose snakes quite a bit and I think we have gotten past the venomous thing yet again as not a real threat and just make sure you feed with tongs not fingers which is good practice with any snake.

One I would add to the list though is the Madagascar Giant Hognose Snake, I saw a few at the last show I went to. Very cool snakes. I would call all hogs beginner myself but I could also understand calling the intermediate simply because of the need to do what you should do anyway.

Another snake that is not often kept that I would called intermediate-advanced is the Mussurana. Amazing snakes, rear fanged but they don't offer to bite and I have never heard of a major reaction. They get big and are very active though so advanced is where I would put them.

Oh and how about the Green Bush Snake (Philothamnus punctatus) they are non venomous and look like small boomslangs. You have to work with them sometimes to get them on rodents but it is not that hard. I really hope to get one of these some day.

Joe

i don't know if anyone's said it yet but Boelen's python is definetley up there for me. does that count?

I'd assumed you'd included Trinkets and Radiateds under the Asian Ratsnakes already! Also, the Aodaisho or Japanese Ratsnake which I really want to work with. :) So pretty! Did you already cover the Mandarin and Red Racer too? The Ridley's? How about the Red Tailed Green Ratsnake or the Redheaded Ratsnake? Although I hear the last two are very hard to keep in captivity. So many gorgeous snakes come out of Asia though.

I also didn't see rubber boas on there, although I may have missed it. Not very fancy, but SO cute and different. :)

Great additions MO I will do a new consolidated list soon, we had a couple that you mentioned already but not most of them, some really cool additions, thanks,

My pleasure, I'm obsessed with the Asian colubrids, lol. :rolleye2:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jjspirko

Great additions MO I will do a new consolidated list soon, we had a couple that you mentioned already but not most of them, some really cool additions, thanks,

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When I have time to post more info I will - but for now let me throw the indigo snake in the ring.

I think I said this before.. but Ringed Pythons and mandarin rat snakes (sp?) are not common... they're very pretty though.. :snake:

Long-nosed green vine snake (Oxybelis fulgidus)
A bit tricky to convert to mice from lizards, but not impossible. A rear-fang with mild venom that can cause some localized swelling, but isn't dangerous. (Should probably be kept like a hot).
http://www.gherp.com/kingsnake/scien...20fulgidus.jpg

It remains on my 'some day' list, as I just think this snake is the coolest. :)

OK here is the updated list

African Green Bush Snake
African Tiger Snakes
Angolan Pythons
Asian Rats
Bairds Rat Snake
Black Head Pythons
Black Kings
Black Milks
Blue Beauty
Bull Snakes
Calabar Pythons
Carpet Pythons
Cave Rat Snake (Elaphe taeniura ridleyi)
Chiapan boa (again need info)
Coachwhip
Cribos
Diadem Snakes
Durmils Boa
Egyptian Catsnake (Telescopus dhara)
Garters
Gophersnakes
Green Vine Snake (Oxybelis fulgidus)
House Snakes
Japanese Ratsnake
Korean Ratsnake
Longnose Snakes
Madagascar Giant Hognose Snake
Madagascar Cat Eyed Snake
Manderian Rat Snake
Mangrove Snake
Matlocks Python
Mexican Night Snakes
Mole Snakes
Mussurana
Panamanian dwarf boa (again need info)
Pine Snakes
Radiated Ratsnakes
Rainbow Boas
Red Mountain Racers (coxi)
Red Tail Green Rat
Ringed Python
Rosey Boas
Rough Green Snakes
Rubber Boas
Rufus Beaked Snakes - There are reds and silvers
Sand Boas
Savu Python
Scrub Pythons
Tenetacled snakes (gonna need to get some info on these)
Tiawan Beauty
Tiger Rats
Trans Pecos Rats
Trinket Rats
Woma Pythons

I might of missed some but it is a working list,

I have another one for your list

Variable kingsnakes aka Thayeri kingsnakes aka Nuevo Leon Kingsnakes

Lampropeltis mexicana thayeri

I'd say they're beginner to intermediate. They are naturally lizard/frog feeders (scenting may be required with babies) and they are a small species. They max out at 3 feet in length.

http://www.kingsnake.com/king/mexicana/thayeri.html

I love these guys because you can get a huge variety of babies out of a clutch of two parents. You can breed two kings that may look different and get some unusual results. Bob Applegate has a good example of three completely different looking babies out of the same clutch http://www.applegatereptiles.com/species/thayeri.htm

Here's a link to most of my guys
http://www.ball-pythons.net/forums/s...hlight=thayeri

OK Thayeri Kings go on the list. They are indeed quite cool.

I have also just discovered a snake with the common name "False Fer-de-Lance" scientific name Xenodon rabdocephalus. These little guys are wicked cool looking.

Here is a link to a blog where a guy found one,

http://lagringasblogicito.blogspot.c...h-neither.html

Now if I can just find an importer that can get me a trio or three I would have a new project. Look at those guys! My gut is they would quickly adapt to captivity very well,