Chlorexidine use?

Hi, I was just cleaning my girls cage and was wondering wether when using chlorexidine solution you need to spray chlorexidine, wipe that then spray water. Or can you just spray chlorexidine and wipe that and it will be fine? I normally spary Chlorex, clean, spray water, clean.

I use clorohexidine and don't rinse with water after. I usually allow it to sit for a couple minutes though.

The chlorhex must be diluted as per directions. Only mix as much as you will use that day because it does not keep it's properties long after mixing. Alot of people don't rinse but my Vet said I should so I do. I mix mine a little stronger too for more punch so I want to be sure it's all rinsed out. I love the stuff.

I've never rinsed afterwards, and haven't had any problems.

Ya I do the water solution. Does anyone know exactly how long the solution lasts after mixed? I herd it was a month, but not sure if that is correct.

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Originally Posted by blueapplepaste

I've never rinsed afterwards, and haven't had any problems.

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I used to never rinse and never had a problem either and for quick clean ups I don't rinse but now I just got into the habit after my Vet recommended. I have an outside sink, hose and which makes it real easy. I also have many extra tubs so I'm in no hurry to get the tubs ready. I like to be thorough. With many snakes I don't want any surprises. I have dealt with RI's in the past and it's no picnic. When you realize you animal is sick it has probably been a while already and could have easily spread. I say this from experience so now I am extra cautious, thats all. :)

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Originally Posted by slither9192

Ya I do the water solution. Does anyone know exactly how long the solution lasts after mixed? I herd it was a month, but not sure if that is correct.

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I was told to use it that day. This came from Kara at NERD, I don't question her knowledge.

There is a product out there sold by Big Apple Herp that I have been using for over 13 yrs. It's called Quat plus. Its safe for all pets and you don't have to rinse afterwards. Its about $15 for a 32 oz bottle. The last thing I want to worry about is if the cleaning agent I'm using has any effects, short or long term. 13 yrs of testing is proof enough for me.

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Originally Posted by westcoastjungle

The chlorhex must be diluted as per directions. Only mix as much as you will use that day because it does not keep it's properties long after mixing.

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I'd love to see some proof of this if anyone can find it. Here is one study that mentions precipitation of the active ingredient in hard or alkaline water. But I havent found anything saying that there is a time limit on using it after mixing.

http://www.ianrpubs.unl.edu/epublic/...licationId=431

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Originally Posted by westcoastjungle

I was told to use it that day. This came from Kara at NERD, I don't question her knowledge.

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Yup, she told me that as well. She said it breaks down very quickly. She recommends a bleach solution instead.

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Originally Posted by rabernet

it breaks down very quickly.

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Acutally this is NOT true. According to Sigma (the patent holder)

"Dilute chlorhexidine solutions may be stored at room temperature, and a shelf-life of at least 1 year can be expected, provided that the packaging

is adequate. "

The issue is not breakdown of the potency but the potential for microbial contamination due to non-steralized water being used.

Here is the entire PDF from Sigma for those that would like to read it.

http://www.sigmaaldrich.com/sigma/product%20information%20sheet/c9394pis.pdf

I admit, I have not researched it, like Raul, I trust Kara's experience and opinion on it. Perhaps she'll see this and comment.

I usually mix a batch every week and use said batch that week for cleans and spot cleans. Never had any problems and it seems to be doing it's job. Been using like that for over 4 yrs now. Maybe I am just lucky or maybe it is ok :)


In the last two months I have been using the cleaning deal Rich @ Reptile Basics does which is using the Chlorexidine then a follow up w/ Healthy Habitat and that seems to work great. The whole bleach deal and all the follow up w/ clean water is just to much work and not feasible for me. Besides I am hell w/ bleach. I would have bleach spots on everything w/ in a 50 foot radius.

There are different types of Chlorhexidines available - diacetate (2%), gluconate (2%), digluconate (20%), etc. Each needs to be mixed specifically according to directions. Different dilutions have different contact times & effectiveness against various pathogens, so it's important to know what you're using & for how long, etc.

To my knowledge, chlorhexidine's effectiveness is reduced after prolonged exposure to organic matter - i.e. using a sink full of water mixed with clorhex, and soaking funky water bowls in it isn't going to be the most effective way to use this disinfectant, but spraying/let set/rinsing water bowls would be a better application. I've heard this from several sources that I trust (vets, experienced zookeepers, etc), and if I'm not mistaken it also got a mention in VPI's ball python book as well. Different water qualities (hard water vs. distilled vs. regular bottled) may be known to reduce the effectiveness also which is why I go by the "better safe than sorry" of mixing only what I'll need for that day/time, and going from there.

Not to say that the various Chlorhex's aren't good products - they can be very effective when used according to directions. It's just all the conflicting information about them that makes me nervous sometimes, but I'm a worrier by nature & would again, rather fall back on "better safe than sorry." I could easily go through a day's worth of mixed Chlorhex if I was using it for all my disinfecting, so that wouldn't be a problem...there are just other products I prefer to use instead. I personally use Nolvasan-S for wound irrigation (both human and animal), and either Trifectant or Virkon for all my other disinfecting applications.

The most important thing - regardless of what disinfectant you use - is to thoroughly research its effectiveness, necessary contact times, etc, and then make the best educated decision you can in terms of use for your collection. (which is why you're on B-P.net in the first place! :rockon: )

Just my $.02...hope it helps! :)

K~

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Originally Posted by lord jackel

Acutally this is NOT true. According to Sigma (the patent holder)

"Dilute chlorhexidine solutions may be stored at room temperature, and a shelf-life of at least 1 year can be expected, provided that the packaging

is adequate. "

The issue is not breakdown of the potency but the potential for microbial contamination due to non-steralized water being used.

Here is the entire PDF from Sigma for those that would like to read it.

http://www.sigmaaldrich.com/sigma/pr...t/c9394pis.pdf

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Great info. But unfortunately this doesn't apply to me. Like Kara said there are different types of chlorexidine. I have Chlorexidine gluconate. Correct me if I am wrong but I think gluconate is the only one used in the hobby?

Thanks Kara! I love the Barker's book, and I refer to it often. So....here is what they have to say:


P. 178, Ball Pythons of the World, Vol II: Ball Pythons by Barker and Barker

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Chlorhexidine gluconates

A variety of chlorohexidine disinfectants are found in use in snake rooms. Some of the brand names with which we are familiar are Nolvasan, Virosan, and a product simply called Chorhexidine Solution.

Chlorhexidine products are often used as disinfectants for inanimate objects or as antiseptics for cleaning skin wounds. Some chlorhexidine compounds contain alcohol, and these have been found to have antimicrobial properties superior to those containing only chlorhexidine. Chlorhexidine is effective against many bacterias, and against yeast (especially Candidia). It is not effective against most viruses, mycobacteria, bacterial and fungal spores or Pseudomonas.

Convenience is the main thing that chlorhexidine products have going for them. They are readily available and reasonably priced. They are a moderately effective disinfectant against many microorganisms. They are not corrosive to snake hooks or other equipment left to soak. We have used dilute solutions of Nolvasan to clean the shells of incubating ball python eggs of mold and fungal growth without any observed deleterious effects on the eggs.

The disadvantages are that this class of disinfectant has poor activity against most viruses and many gram-negative bacteria. Only Virosan has any activity against Pseudomonas (Johnson, 1996). Chlorhexidine products are not effective in the presence of organice debris. These products must be mixed and discarded daily.

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There is also an interesting section on Disinfectants and Why Use a Disinfectant at All if anyone is interested.

Thank you for that great info Rabernet.

I have nothing but respect for the Barkers and for Kara, but I want to see studies that show that a spray bottle of Chlorhexidine and water (non hard or alkaline) is less effective after its been sitting for a week. It would make sense that in the prescence of fecal matter and urates, that it would break down.

OK, I've been watching this thread carefully cause I just got some of the stuff from Rich so I wouldn't have to go through the whole bleach and rinse cycle thing.

I suppose, to be safe, it WOULD be best to just mix what you need to be sure of maximum potency, but here's the thing:
How do you mix up an 8oz spray bottle when the directions are 1oz per Gallon ?? How many single drops of the stuff would that take? I am awful at calculations (took hours for me to figure out how much repti-safe I needed to add to a 24oz bottle) so I would really love it if someone could help me out on this :)

Thanks

1 fl gallon = 128 fl ounces.
1 fl. oz = 2 tablespoons or 6 teaspoons.

May help you break things down a bit more. :)

Hmm, thanks for the ounce conversion to tsp. But how much is 128th of 6 tsp?? I have to figure out how much chlorexidine goes into 8oz of water. :)

Still, thank you for those conversions, they'll come in handy for other things I'm sure.

It would be alot simpler to just go to the grocery store and get a gallon of distilled water :) Then you can fill up your spray bottle with that.

I don't usually mix per the instructions. I make the mixture blue enough to be called sky blue and be done with it. It's usually 2-3 oz per gallon though.