FLEXWATT repair question:

I have a piece of 11" flexwatt and one end of the cord got pulled out of the clip. I had repaired and put it back together, but it got pulled out again, and now the short tab of the metal clip broke off.

I've tried soldering the copper to the clip that folds in 1/2 and attaches/pinches the flex directly, but it won't hold.

Can I replace the entire tab/clip assembly and have it hold, or will there be stray current that could zing? Or use a tab and some electrical tape. Would that be secure enough???

I need a RELIABLE, and SAFE! way to repair this w/o taking apart the other side. It's intact and complete, and I need this piece of flex in order to have 4 tubs all identical to put on my t-stat.


T-I-A for suggestions.


RuLyn

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by sweety314

I have a piece of 11" flexwatt and one end of the cord got pulled out of the clip. I had repaired and put it back together, but it got pulled out again, and now the short tab of the metal clip broke off.

I've tried soldering the copper to the clip that folds in 1/2 and attaches/pinches the flex directly, but it won't hold.

Can I replace the entire tab/clip assembly and have it hold, or will there be stray current that could zing? Or use a tab and some electrical tape. Would that be secure enough???

I need a RELIABLE, and SAFE! way to repair this w/o taking apart the other side. It's intact and complete, and I need this piece of flex in order to have 4 tubs all identical to put on my t-stat.


T-I-A for suggestions.


RuLyn

---

Rulyn,i just talked to a freind and here is what he said.He does not use the clips ever.He peels back the plastic over the yellow strip and conects his wire directly to it and then sodder it.He has several racks with the helix controls with zero problems.

Just solder it good, and secure/insulate it with a little electrical tape. Or you can buy some tab connectors and use male connectors crimped onto the cord and pushed under the plastic and against the tab. Again, secure/insulate with some tape. You might want to get some of those wire staples and use them to secure the cords to the rack so they don't get pulled out any more.

Edit: Joe beat me to it. Those tabs suck.

Thx for the suggestions, but here's the problem... the solder DOESN'T STICK.


I've used it before, and can't understand, but after it cools, it balls and falls off.

I don't have the flexwatt in a rack. These flex are heavily taped to the bottoms of tubs, and attached to a t-stat. The tubs SIT on a shelf rack, but they're not a snake rack.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by sweety314

Thx for the suggestions, but here's the problem... the solder DOESN'T STICK.


I've used it before, and can't understand, but after it cools, it balls and falls off.

I don't have the flexwatt in a rack. These flex are heavily taped to the bottoms of tubs, and attached to a t-stat. The tubs SIT on a shelf rack, but they're not a snake rack.

---

Then something is wrong with the solder :O .It should stick directly to the exposed element.

I would get some tabs from Radio Shack or somewhere then. I use them for most of my flexwatt, and they work great. They crimp to the cord, then the copper tab slips right between the plastic and the metal strip in the flexwatt. Add a piece of electrical tape and you're good. If you can't use those staples that hold wire in place, maybe add a little hot glue to secure the cord to the shelf or bin that the flexwatt is connected to, to prevent the cord from getting pulled out from the heat tape.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by joepythons

Then something is wrong with the solder :O .It should stick directly to the exposed element.

---

That's true. Maybe cleaning the metal strip where you attach the cord will make it work for you. There's no reason for solder not stick.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by sweety314

Thx for the suggestions, but here's the problem... the solder DOESN'T STICK.

---

Rulyn, make sure you are using rosin core solder. If you are using a lead based solder, it won't stick. Rosin core solder's for electronics, easily found at Radio Shack, would stick like a champ. I don't know what you are using, but I wanted to make sure you had the right stuff. I say all this, because I bought the lead based stuff one time, and cursed for hours. I finally made it work, but my connections looked like a mess.

I got a nice sized roll from Home Depot for like a dollar. You don't need the thick stuff just to solder flexwatt

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by muddoc

Rulyn, make sure you are using rosin core solder. If you are using a lead based solder, it won't stick. Rosin core solder's for electronics, easily found at Radio Shack, would stick like a champ. I don't know what you are using, but I wanted to make sure you had the right stuff. I say all this, because I bought the lead based stuff one time, and cursed for hours. I finally made it work, but my connections looked like a mess.

---

Thanks Tim!!!! I'd have to check, once I get back home, but I'm pretty sure that's what it is...is lead.

Now I know what to look for, I'll get some of the rosin and see if that will fix it up. :)

:carrot:

RuLyn

As others have said, rosin core solder is what you need. But I think your main issue is that you are not getting everything hot enough. You must get the surfaces hot enough for the solder to flow. If it looks like a puddle just sitting on top, it won't stick. It needs to flow out so that it lays somewhat flat on the surface. The easiest way to accomplish this is to use some paste flux (available where ever solder is sold). Swab a little flux onto the surface, then get a "glob" of solder on the tip of your iron. Touch that to the surface with the flux on it. The flux will "boil", and the solder should flow smoothly onto the surface. Do the same thing with the wire, and get a good amount of solder on the wire. When the solder flows INTO the wire, you're ready. Keep the solder melted and hot on the wire, and touch it to the surface you're attaching it to. Again, the solder should flow and mix with the solder on the other piece. That's when you'll have a good bond.

Steve

Thanks for the suggestions. I checked yesterday, and the solder I own is rosin-cored, labeled for electronics use. It's possible my soldering iron isn't getting hot enough, since I've used it to melt holes into tubs and hides.


I'm going out to buy another iron and see if that will help get the copper wiring hot enough to help the solder stick.