Just got a baby BP who wont eat, I think its normal, but need conformation

Not sure if this is husbandry or general, so sorry if this is wrong forum

This thing is a BABY. Im guessing under 1 week old. The shop got him on thursday, which is 4 days ago. Anyway heres the scoop

hes never eaten
never shed
Just got him 3 hours ago
fuzzy is in cage as I type this

I read somewhere a baby wont eat till it has shed OR? Is this true? Ive also heard if you get a baby, you have to not touch them and wat 3 days to feed them. Which is true?

Should I take the heat lamp off and put a towel over? he is either ignoring it, or not noticing the fuzzy.

If the general concensus is to take him out, when should I try next?

Thanks

(if I have more questions i will just post them)

currently the same question is about two spaces up on the front page BUT, you're gonna want to wait more than 3 days to feed

1. my moms attached to the stupid fuzzy and wanting to nourish and care for it since the snake wont eat it... lol
2. can i touch the snake till i try to feed it next, or leave it alone till after it sheds/ or 3 days?

Here are 2 posts about this topic (one from Ed and one from me...should answer your question)

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Originally Posted by Freakie-frog

I would have to agree with you that a less established ball might be a little discouraging for a new owner. How every it is not impossible.

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Originally Posted by Freakie-frog

I see that you said that he doesn't use his hides this is more than likely because they are 1: to big and he is not feeling secure or 2: due to the temp difference they don't offer him the right temp he is looking for. active in a ball that young can mean it is stressed.

If your using a glass tank I would suggest setting in up along these lines.
http://www.ball-pythons.net/forums/...ead.php?t=32800

If your not I suggest getting an accurite thermometer the dial type sold in pet stores are bad known for being wrong by up to 15-20 degrees..

Allowing your snake at least 1-2 weeks to settle in before feeding is best (this means no handling, feeding or any contact other than spot cleaning and water changes.
When feeding live if my snakes don't eat with in 30 minutes I remove the prey and either try a different prey size or type. if they still don't eat then wait till next week.

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Originally Posted by Lord Jackel

A few comments -

1. I wouldn't bother trying to feed him till he sheds the first time (he won't eat till then)
2. Make sure his first meal is really small (pinkie would be ideal) this way you can leave it with him overnight without issue.
3. At 88 on the warm side you are getting low you need to get some more warmth try for low 90's
4. What is your humidity? You need it to be higher right now as hatchlings can dehydrate quickly (my pre sheds are on wet paper towels...just to give you an idea)

Good Luck...keep us posted.

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Ok well I do have a kinda big hide, I could swap in a tissue box instead of what I have now which is half a log with the inside taken out.

What should I do with fuzzy? let him stay in cage and give him milk (mom done twice already lol) he has white fur, but eyes not open, so I am thinking he MIGHT be able to live, but im not sure. Or put him in freezer until after he sheds?

you should at least wait a week... what is with you and 3 days? it won't matter what your mom thinks of the fuzzy because fuzzies aren't weaned yet, so that's going to be a bit of a problem for you because it will starve to death if your snake won't eat it. Snakes can go weeks and months without food, so 3 hours isn't going to be a problem, put the top on, and step away from the enclosure, let it settle for a good long time (meaning a week or MORE) and don't touch it till it settles

wow, alright well your mom's got the fuzzy covered, stratch that part of my post

Why are you trying to feed a ball python the same day you got it? Get it set up in a 6 quart tub with two tiny hides and don't mess with it at all. Let it get through its first shed and THEN offer food. If it doesn't eat, continue not messing with it (that means handling or touching) for another week and try again - repeat.

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Originally Posted by rabernet

Why are you trying to feed a ball python the same day you got it? Get it set up in a 6 quart tub with two tiny hides and don't mess with it at all. Let it get through its first shed and THEN offer food. If it doesn't eat, continue not messing with it (that means handling or touching) for another week and try again - repeat.

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Yeah, what Robin said:P

Umm... can I leave it in his/her 10 gallon glass aquarium? I have it set up with newspaper, a hide, and a weird looking trunk thing that it can hide under with about 88 temp and 60% humidity. Or do I need a 6 quart tub :(

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Originally Posted by whyteboi

Umm... can I leave it in his/her 10 gallon glass aquarium? I have it set up with newspaper, a hide, and a weird looking trunk thing that it can hide under with about 88 temp and 60% humidity. Or do I need a 6 quart tub :(

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I think you really should take everyone here's advice and get it into a small enclosure, with two IDENTICAL small hides, and get your temperatures right, with a good digital thermometer to measure with. The 10 gallon will be great once your baby has shed and eaten and is established, but right now you need to give him what he needs.

Ok well I tried feeding it a dead hopper. Not sure on the name, but it looked a LITTLE bigger then a fuzzy. The guy at the store said my baby should be eating AT LEAST this size.

Anyway i left the mouse in there over night with no luck, I dangled it infront of him first for 10 minutes. I gave up and heard stories about overnight success. I started at 7pm when i saw him roaming in his cage.

Its been a week so can I handle him, or should I still just wait till he eats?

I kinda dont wanna waste my mice, but I wanna feed him as often as possible, since I got 4, now 3. Every 5 days, or every week?

First off, why did you get a hatchling? doesn't sound like your really up for it...

When I got my first hatchling:
http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u.../100_00321.jpg

I put her in a small tub:
http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u.../100_00361.jpg
http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u.../100_00341.jpg
http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u.../100_00381.jpg

two small hides, one on cool side of tank, one on warm side of tank. VERY simple yet it gives them security. Put the tub in a non-traffic area and leave the poor thing alone for a few days. You bought it and have been bothering it since then. I bought mine the day after she shed at the pet shop. Put her in her tub, and left her alone for a solid week an offered her a hopper mouse, no go, she didnt want it. So i turned all the lights in the room off and sat in the dark for about 3-4 hrs before she took it. Your might take long since its been stressed since the day you got it. Take he hopper out, put it in a smaller tub, with two hides and a water bowl, get your temps right, your humidity up, and leave the poor thing along for 3-4 days, its not gonna starve in that time frame. Has it even shed yet?

Mine is now 82 grams, eats anything I throw in there and got too big for her little baby tub so I upgraded her to a nice 10G tank, no way would I have put her in there as a hatchling.

http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u.../101_56741.jpg
http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u.../101_56731.jpg
http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u.../101_56771.jpg

Good Luck.

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Originally Posted by whyteboi

Ok well I tried feeding it a dead hopper. Not sure on the name, but it looked a LITTLE bigger then a fuzzy. The guy at the store said my baby should be eating AT LEAST this size.

Anyway i left the mouse in there over night with no luck, I dangled it infront of him first for 10 minutes. I gave up and heard stories about overnight success. I started at 7pm when i saw him roaming in his cage.

Its been a week so can I handle him, or should I still just wait till he eats?

I kinda dont wanna waste my mice, but I wanna feed him as often as possible, since I got 4, now 3. Every 5 days, or every week?

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NO handling until after his first successful meal (and not until 48 hours after he eats).

Try once a week, and try getting him set up properly first. He's clearly not settled yet. Have you at least considered moving him to a small tub with two identical hides?

Umm no cause the tub would be 70 degrees. I do have a uth from zoo-med that is 4watts and 60Hz. Not sure if this would be good. I guess I might waste more money on a tub that I will only use for 1 week.

Maybe Im not being clear, I did write that out of order. I thawed the hopper in warm water for 5 minutes, took him out, dried him with a blow drier. Dangled it in front of him for 5 minutes, then left the mouse in there overnight.

I have everything set up fine. The only thing on all websites guidelines that I am not following is two identical hides. I have seperate ones.

No I have not been bothering it the whole time. Ive handled it maybe 3 times for when I first got it, then seeing how active it was a day or two later, and changing the newspaper today, because it deficated some white stuff showing that he might still have something in his body, meaning the problem isnt definitly my setup, he just might not be hungry.

Im trying to avoid the whole tub at all costs. Ill go look for one around the house. I dont have two hides, I might just use tissue paper boxes. Then stick the water bowl and the UTH on and put him in the basement.

You obviously bought a CH hatchling on an impulse before reading anything up on them, I get alot of that stuff around here come this time of the year. Should never buy anything that has not eaten or shed.

10 gal should be ok. You need a good thermometer (accurite from walmart) the dial ones suck. Warm side low 90's cool side low 80's (below 75 is dangerous).

Newspaper is fine but make sure your undertank pad is not getting too hot (they often do)

Dont touch it till it eats could be up to one month before it will more if you stress it out, or something is not right as far as husbandry goes.

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Originally Posted by whyteboi

Umm no cause the tub would be 70 degrees. I do have a uth from zoo-med that is 4watts and 60Hz. Not sure if this would be good. I guess I might waste more money on a tub that I will only use for 1 week.

Maybe Im not being clear, I did write that out of order. I thawed the hopper in warm water for 5 minutes, took him out, dried him with a blow drier. Dangled it in front of him for 5 minutes, then left the mouse in there overnight.

I have everything set up fine. The only thing on all websites guidelines that I am not following is two identical hides. I have seperate ones.

No I have not been bothering it the whole time. Ive handled it maybe 3 times for when I first got it, then seeing how active it was a day or two later, and changing the newspaper today, because it deficated some white stuff showing that he might still have something in his body, meaning the problem isnt definitly my setup, he just might not be hungry.

Im trying to avoid the whole tub at all costs. Ill go look for one around the house. I dont have two hides, I might just use tissue paper boxes. Then stick the water bowl and the UTH on and put him in the basement.

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Why are you trying to avoid a tub at all costs? Buying a tub is not a waste of money (besides it's only $3 at Dollar General) when it comes to the health and well-being of your snake. You came here asking for help, and we've offered our suggestions. It's up to you to decide if you care to take it.

And you would use a tub for much longer than a week.

Good luck with your snake!

so you want to avoid using a tub at all cost, even if it means the well being of your snake? :(

Might want to rethink your idea for a pet my friend. If you weren't going to use our advice cause it doesn't agree with what you have or what you think, then why did you even bother asking?

you need to research ball pythons quite a bit. it ovivous you know nothing about them and bought one rather randomly. go learn about them read some caresheets and get you enclousure set up properly.

I don't know if I have welcomed you yet or not.. so if I haven't welcome to the site.

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Originally Posted by whyteboi

Umm no cause the tub would be 70 degrees. I do have a
uth from zoo-med that is 4watts and 60Hz. Not sure if this would be good. I guess I might waste more money on a tub that I will only use for 1 week.

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If the tub is properly set up then no. I currently maintain 5 hachlings in 6qt tubs and can maintain a proper temp in them without a problem. It does require a little more effort to do but it can be done. The tubs are only a few dollars and its only the health and well being of your animal were talking about. the decision is yours.

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Maybe Im not being clear, I did write that out of order. I thawed the hopper in warm water for 5 minutes, took him out, dried him with a blow drier. Dangled it in front of him for 5 minutes, then left the mouse in there overnight.

I have everything set up fine. The only thing on all websites guidelines that I am not following is two identical hides. I have separate ones.

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then everything is not setup fine. Two identical hides are vital if your no willing to decrease the size of your enclosure. They are not optional, they aren't a well if I think it'll look good item they are a MUST HAVE! no getting around it.

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No I have not been bothering it the whole time. Ive handled it maybe 3 times for when I first got it, then seeing how active it was a day or two later, and changing the newspaper today, because it deficated some white stuff showing that he might still have something in his body, meaning the problem isnt definitly my setup, he just might not be hungry.

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The white stuff is urates a second by product of your snakes kidneys and accompany's urine when it eleminates. Its real risky making the comment that first you don't have two hides and second the problem can't possibly be your setup. Please if you hear nothing else I say hear this.. I as well as many of the people that have offered you solutions have more years experience keeping reptiles and more specifically ball pythons than many people have years of total education. I am telling you you have two things working against you. 1: you purchased a, unestablished, preshed captive hatched ball python. Who can be difficult for even an experienced breeder to get to eat. 2: Your set up.... regardless of how effective you may believe it to be....is less than adequate for even an established ball.

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Im trying to avoid the whole tub at all costs. Ill go look for one around the house. I dont have two hides, I might just use tissue paper boxes. Then stick the water bowl and the UTH on and put him in the basement.

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Avoiding the tub is avoiding a possible solution to your problem. However it is your snake. This is an animal that you have taken responsibility for its health and well being and in the end your call.

If I were you..and I wanted to keep this particular animal..and avoid using the tub heres what I'd do.

1: Get two hides small hides. Not tissue boxes but something that offers support, holds heat and will be supper tight for your ball. Look at this thead it'll show you how small they really like it. http://www.ball-pythons.net/forums/s...ad.php?t=45693


2:Crumple up some news paper and fill the tank half way full with it. Not stuffed just lightly crumpled in to a ball and then just toss it in there. This takes up some space in the tank and helps offer a more secure feeling for them.

3: Get you (if you haven't already) an "Accurite" digital indoor/outdoor thermometer and hygrometer combo. Its like 11.00 at Wal-Mart. USE IT!!

4: Put that UTH on a thermostat and set it to 90 degrees.

5: Cover the tank with a beach towel. This blocks out light and will keep your snake thinking its in a deep dark tight hole.

Do all of this before handleing, before even trying to feed. Give it two weeks like this no mucking around with it. Fill its water and leave it be.!!

Try that then offer a live hopper mouse..just put it in the tank as it is and leave it over night. Try all that then let me know how it goes.

P.S. no loud music in the room with it, not loud talking, nothing that would cause vibrations in the tank.

Also just so you know some CH balls never eat. So you might want to consider that as well and look at getting an established animal. However if your like me and stubborn and you get every thing fixed and he eats and pulls through then you'll have learned tons about balls in your first year of owning it than most.

Whatever, it just seems cruel to me, but if you all feel so strongly Ill do it. Does it need a bowl of water and will the UTH I mentioned be warm enough/not too hot? My mom bought it for a mouse and I cant find box so dont know the temps it produces

Why am I not surprised by this with a screen name like "whyteboi"?

You seriously should have done your research to see exactly what you need to provide your snake with everything it needs which is'nt much.

Set up a tub/ tank 10gal

Connect the UTH to a thermostat (the thermostat is needed, no option here). Place the probe either under the tank on the UTH or over it inside the enclosure. You may need to experiment.

Tape the UTH to the outside bottom of one side of the tank/tub.

Set the stat to about 92-93, this is your hot side.

Your cool side should be 80-84

Humidity should be around 50% or slightly more during shed at about 60-70%.

Two identical hides, one for the hot side and one for the cool.

Buy Accurate thermometer and place the probe in the hot side hide. This will tell you the temps of both the hot and cool side as well as the humidity and it's cheap.

If possible buy an infrared temperature gun to spot check your temps in the enclosure. They are very accurate.

Good luck.

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Originally Posted by whyteboi

Whatever, it just seems cruel to me, but if you all feel so strongly Ill do it. Does it need a bowl of water and will the UTH I mentioned be warm enough/not too hot? My mom bought it for a mouse and I cant find box so dont know the temps it produces

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Its not cruel I pormise its really the most effective way to keep them. Yes it will need a water bowl. You want know about the temp until you get a thermometer and a thermostat to control it. But yea it could go either way either not enough heat or to much either one is bad.

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Originally Posted by BostonMacK

Why am I not surprised by this with a screen name like "whyteboi"?

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Hey friend no personal attacks now. We all learned from somewhere. Some need more guidance than others thats why we're here.

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Originally Posted by BostonMacK

Why am I not surprised by this with a screen name like "whyteboi"?

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I apprieciate people like freakie_frog who dont down-talk me like I am some stupid 6 year old who bought a bomb, but its these kind of ignorant posts that I dont want to listen to.

Im probably one of the smartest teens on the board decked with AP's ect, the nickname is something I picked up from 6th grade, and I can use on almost ANY forum without it being taken. Thanks for the ignorance though.

I have done research. I just felt like throwing this thing in a tub in the basement with 2 bowls and a thing of water is cruel. Obviously I was wrong. Ive owned one before, and obviously it was more well established. People at the pet store said he would be fine in a ten gallon, and most caresheets dont give enough info on hatchlings specificly.

Im gonna try to feed him on Friday night. If he doesnt eat, Im gonna get a thermostat, some hide bowls, and set him up. I dont have time this week, so maybe over the next week hell get used to the home. If not then the 6 quart tub is coming

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Originally Posted by whyteboi

Whatever, it just seems cruel to me, but if you all feel so strongly Ill do it. Does it need a bowl of water and will the UTH I mentioned be warm enough/not too hot? My mom bought it for a mouse and I cant find box so dont know the temps it produces

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Cruel is refusing to get your animal set up properly and allowing it to starve to death.

You need to get a rheostat or thermostat to control the UTH. You also need to get a proper digital thermometer/hygrometer so that you KNOW the temps.

It's clear you were not prepared to take on a hatchling ball python, I can only hope you'll start to take the advice of the experienced keepers here.

Like I havent taken enough abuse already....lol

we truly are not here to abuse you. we really do want to assist you to raise a healthy ball python.

please consider getting a proper bin, heating, water, hides etc for your snake... OR take it back to the store you purchased it from.

PLEASE don't just leave it to die. :(

Its in a 10g tank with 90 temps, 60-70 humid, water bowl, clean newspaper, a hide, and a log to hide and crawl around.... Im not leaving it to die....lol

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Originally Posted by whyteboi

Im not leaving it to die....lol

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I really don't think this is a laughing matter. You came here asking advice and many of bp.nets finest are attempting to help you and for the most part you seem to be shrugging them off. If your snake doesnt eat, death will come, and your snake most likely won't eat until it feels more secure. And the easiest way to do that would be a tub, and TWO identical hides, which you seem to believe are unecessary.Also, your ambient temps shouldn't be in the 90's. There should be a basking spot in the 90's, but the actual air temps should remain in the 80's.

Yea, I am not a idiot, I was giving the highest temperature, and I have already stated I am going to get all that stuff.

And I honestly dont think its a laughing matter...when it hits 8 weeks. I checked 8 ball, and the owner there doesnt even change his strategy until week 3 about how he feeds, and force feed on week 7. I just finished week one.....

You guys keep posting stuff Ive already adressed, and then talking down to me like your not reading anything I type, except the title.

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Originally Posted by whyteboi

Its in a 10g tank with 90 temps, 60-70 humid, water bowl, clean newspaper, a hide, and a log to hide and crawl around.... Im not leaving it to die....lol

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Seriously though, I would reccommend getting the things mentioned in previous posts. Ball pythons really like small spaces, so being in a little tub will benefit it. Many of the people who have offered help have been breeding BPs for a while. They'd know what's right for your snake. :)

For the third, possibly fourth time... I am getting all that stuff on friday. lol

Why are you waiting that long? :confused:

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Originally Posted by whyteboi

Its in a 10g tank with 90 temps, 60-70 humid, water bowl, clean newspaper, a hide, and a log to hide and crawl around.... Im not leaving it to die....lol

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Well people here have already gave you great advice most of them own multiple BP that are thriving so maybe you should start considering listening to them.

I will try to let's see

You have a young BP and it won't eat

One of the most important thing with BP is SECURITY this imply being secure in his hides and being secure in his enclosure.

I will insist on the need of 2 identical hides (so your BP does not chose security over thermo-regulation) the hides need to be very tight so your BP can snug in (all sides touching is body). Note: Log hides make very poor hides. You can make hides out of plastic flower pot dish, plastic bowl or purchase something similar to this http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p.../CUBBYHOLE.jpg

As far as enclosure if you want to provide maximum security and the best for that is a tub, this is not cruelty I have all of mine in a tub and they thrive and very rarely miss a meal.

Now for the temps you must provide a gradient it is very important the temps off a few degree can make you BP refuse to eat same thing with humidity

your temps must be 80-84 on the cool side and 90-94 on the warm side, humidity should be between 50% and 60%

Off course to provide proper temps and humidity this mean you MUST have an accurate reading and use a digital thermometer/hydrometer such as this one http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p...s/Acu-Rite.gif that can be found at Walmart for 12$.

Now if you provide adequate husbandry this will be the first step for your BP to eat.

Once you made all those changes wait a week to 10 days (no handling during that time except for maintenance)

Then try to offer a live prey that his slightly smaller then the girth size and take it from there.

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I am getting all that stuff on friday

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The sooner you will get everything the sooner your BP will be on it's way to have a first successful meal, just think that from the moment you make the changes you will have to wait another week to ten days before offering food which if you get your stuff on Friday it will put it off at almost 2 weeks from now, and since you seems so worried about him not eating I would think you would want to do this ASAP.

Friday as in the 25th? Thats an extra week away? We are all here to help out and none of us ever called you an idiot, and we haven't talked down to you in any manner. You came here asking for help and we provided it, most of this thread was you defending yourself. When that isn't even needed, no one is attacking you, so no reason to get on the defensive. I had the same problem you have, she wouldn't eat so I came here and got advice and that night she was eating. I showed ya the tub she was in when I first got her, what all was in it. And she is eating and is perfectly healthy. Please don't take our post as us talking down or belittling you, we are just trying to help.

In short, just get a small tub, two identical hides, warm side 90-95 degrees, cool side 80-85 degrees, and humidity about 50%'ish and she will be fine. Just give her some space and you'll be good to go.

1. I am probably not going to offer live until a month or necesary. Ive learned that if your snake doesnt want it, and the mouse walks around the snake, the snake will be stressed and not eat, and dead will stay still, and snake can choose when to eat it with no worries about it stressing them out. This is what I have read on dozens of caresheets that all of you assumed I have not read.

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Originally Posted by whyteboi

1. I am probably not going to offer live until a month or necesary. Ive learned that if your snake doesnt want it, and the mouse walks around the snake, the snake will be stressed and not eat, and dead will stay still, and snake can choose when to eat it with no worries about it stressing them out. This is what I have read on dozens of caresheets that all of you assumed I have not read.

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I don't see your point.If the snake doesnt want it, your just gonna have a not-quite-so-happy-with-the-little-bugger snake, b/c he already doesn't want it. When people feed F/t they have to dangle and make it do the mousie dance to mimmick a live mouse to get it to eat. your better off just trying to feed it live.

Right, so its my luck that the info I mention from a caresheet is wrong? lol I wish I could feed live. Thats all my other snake ate.

Anyway live isnt an option for me anyway, and Id rather not have to justify it. You guys will try to poke holes through it

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Originally Posted by whyteboi

Right, so its my luck that the info I mention from a caresheet is wrong? lol I wish I could feed live. Thats all my other snake ate.

Anyway live isnt an option for me anyway, and Id rather not have to justify it. You guys will try to poke holes through it

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Feeding P/K or F/T is perfectly fine I have three that will take a hot dog if I try to give it to them. Trying to get it started on P/k or f/T is possiable maybe more diffecult but possiable.

what is f/t and p/k?

pk is pre killed im guessing

no idea on ft, been trying to figure it out last 3 weeks but I am pretty sure something like fresh killed?

Yup


p/k = pre killed

f/t = frozen/thawed



dr del

Quote:

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Originally Posted by whyteboi

1. I am probably not going to offer live until a month or necesary. Ive learned that if your snake doesnt want it, and the mouse walks around the snake, the snake will be stressed and not eat, and dead will stay still, and snake can choose when to eat it with no worries about it stressing them out. This is what I have read on dozens of caresheets that all of you assumed I have not read.

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:rolleye2:

Ok here I am not trying to tell you what to feed in the long run, because that will be your choice most importantly the one of your BP, I am trying to get your BP to start eating for you.

Live will stimulate your BP, while F/T is fine, if a BP has never taken F/T or never have had a successful meal with you then you need to get him to start and chances how it will not work with F/T or P/K.

I feed all my BP F/T however before I ever switched any of them to F/T I made sure there were successfully eating with me at least 3 consecutive times, once they did I tried switching, some were very easy some took a little longer in the end they all did, however some never will and as a responsible owner you MUST be prepared to feed whatever work for your BP.

Get your BP to start eating then try switching but right now your priority is to get him started.

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Anyway live isnt an option for me anyway

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And sometimes P/K or F/T is not an option for the snake (some will just not take it), so what will you do in that case, let him starve to death because it is not an option for YOU :confused:

Well in all honesty, the snake was 3 times more interested in the FT then the fuzzy. That could be because of the time/day/temp/humid/ect but im not gonna start worrying until I have to, in like 3 weeks.

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Originally Posted by whyteboi

im not gonna start worrying until I have to, in like 3 weeks.

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So its not eating now, in an improper tank, and your not gonna worry till you "have" too... :(


I'm curious, what is gonna have to happen in order for you to "have" to worry. If something is wrong you should worry just cause its your pet and in your control, you shouldn't worry cause you HAVE to.

Also, you have pics of your tank and its current setup?

So If I get the situation right after all those posts, you have an unstarted BP, apparently no previous experience on starting an hatchling of get a problem feeder to eat, not willing to listen to experienced people, and will start worrying about what you called

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This thing

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in about 3 weeks.

:eek: All I can come up with right now is :disbelief :tricho: http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p...icons/Wall.gif.

Look, the guy on 8 ball doesnt even change his strategy until week 2 or 3 AFTER the shed. He doesnt force feed until week 7. Im pretty sure he knows what hes doing, seeing as he goes through more babies a year then most BP owners will go through in their life.

I always see snakes going off feed for 5 months, and people saying "your more stressed then the snake"

The snake deficated, meaning theres some nutrition inside of him, so theres really no reason for me to be worried. Every site I have read says not to be worried until after 2 or so months. I realize I have a baby, BUT I HAVE A PLAN TO FIX THIS.