rack is worse than i thought

oh man, this is way worse than i thought. i told you all the rack didn't turn out well... well today i brought it into the house and popped the bins into it and EEK the space is HUGE. this sucks...

how can we fix this? would adding a stopper so the balls can't move the bins to escape work or do you think there's another better way to fix this? (other than a burn pile)

http://www.timelessspirit.com/images/snakes/eek.jpg

http://www.timelessspirit.com/images/snakes/space.jpg

http://www.timelessspirit.com/images/snakes/rack.jpg

try 2 thin strips of luwann (sp) under each tub to close the gap a bit...

I would put the gap filler on the top, so you don't have to mess with the flex watt but don't burn it it looks good, just a little top spacer (unless you don't have the flex watt in i can't tell). Next time, try when setting it up for the build, use a piece of carboard, or a piece of cardboard with one of the flat sides ripped off to be a spacer on top of the tubs as you build it. Worked great for me.

Edit: are there handles on the sides of those tubs that would stick up a bit?


~mike

i just checked and the bins are an odd shape... there is a slight drop in the height.

the front, back and centre of the sides is a little bit higher... so i would think having those flush would make it a good fit for the rack???

i don't know what happened. my hubby is usually so precise with his building... and yet this is so off :(

wow rack looks great. Do you mind if I steal your design :( .. I've been coming up with differ ideas and your rack looks great. What size rubbermaids are those?

No worries, it could be one of those things that one is a little off, then the next is a little off, then by the last one it is a little too much of a gap. Nothing that can't be fixed. When i built mine i screwed up so that i had to flip the whole thing over so that the top was now the bottom, and i worked out fairly good i had to change some things as i went along and somehow ended up with like a shelf on top that i didn't expect lol! no worries, it can be fixed.


~mike

Looking at the tape measure it looks like the gap is about 1/2" ? If so you shouldn't have to worry. Unless you are using this for hatchlings most 1 yr+ ball won't be able to squeeze out that small of a gap.

If you are concerned still...I wouldn't suggest attempting to change the height of the bins but rather add side rails to cover where the gap is (attach strips to the blue wood that run from to back to the front along the sides of the rack).
Hope this description is clear??

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Originally Posted by lord jackel

Looking at the tape measure it looks like the gap is about 1/2" ? If so you shouldn't have to worry. Unless you are using this for hatchlings most 1 yr+ ball won't be able to squeeze out that small of a gap.

If you are concerned still...I wouldn't suggest attempting to change the height of the bins but rather add side rails to cover where the gap is (attach strips to the blue wood that run from to back to the front along the sides of the rack).
Hope this description is clear??

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ooo good idea.

~mike

aww now that's not so bad Aleesha. It's better than the one I built...which, BTW...I tore apart the other day and replaced it with a Vision CB-70 rack :D

i just checked... the gap is 3/8"

my snakes were born in june/july i believe... they are still with adam so - with the way the CITES is going - they should be around a year once they get here. :P

so... what's the decision here... is it good to go or do we need to do something to make it escape proof?

Maybe stick some plywood under the bins where you dont have heat tape if thats possible.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lord jackel

If you are concerned still...I wouldn't suggest attempting to change the height of the bins but rather add side rails to cover where the gap is (attach strips to the blue wood that run from to back to the front along the sides of the rack).
Hope this description is clear??

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so do you mean just closing in the sides?

We had the same freakin problem with ours....although each shelf is off by a diffrent amount...and we forgot to add a stopper before we finished the whole thing so I had to put the lids on the tubs...and now they are super tight and I rip the heck out of the wiring for the flex watt sliding them in and out...I have to re connect the wire almost daily :( Cant wait for our new rack LOL

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Originally Posted by Cl@!r3

Maybe stick some plywood under the bins where you dont have heat tape if thats possible.

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I thought the same thing... could you just ad some thin plywood to the bottom? You could paint it to match and everything?

i think it would be easier to take it apart and remake it than add a thin board to the every level. :P

i'm hoping that during the day tomorrow some more people will chime in as to whether or not they feel 3/8" is too much space.

we haven't added the flexwatt yet but we have that routed out so it shouldn't make a difference except that end of the tub won't be as low as it is now. i measured at the front 1/2 of the tub where the 11" flexwatt won't be.

i would like to use this rack... since it cost so much in materials... but i don't want my snakes escaping... that IS my number one priority!

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Originally Posted by recycling goddess

i think it would be easier to take it apart and remake it than add a thin board to the every level. :P

i'm hoping that during the day tomorrow some more people will chime in as to whether or not they feel 3/8" is too much space.

we haven't added the flexwatt yet but we have that routed out so it shouldn't make a difference except that end of the tub won't be as low as it is now. i measured at the front 1/2 of the tub where the 11" flexwatt won't be.

i would like to use this rack... since it cost so much in materials... but i don't want my snakes escaping... that IS my number one priority!

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If it maxes out at 3/8" (which is smaller than half inch) you should be fine. Though snakes can fit into tight spaces they cannot flatten themselves due to the fact that they still have a backbone and ribs.

I say good to go. :rockon:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lord jackel

If it maxes out at 3/8" (which is smaller than half inch) you should be fine. Though snakes can fit into tight spaces they cannot flatten themselves due to the fact that they still have a backbone and ribs.

I say good to go. :rockon:

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I agree, 3/8ths of an inch isn't too bad. at one year old they are prob 300g ish that is chunky to fit through that gap. if you are still worried i just thought of this, that you could put layers of duct tape around the lip of the tub to deminish the gap. but i agree 3/8ths isn't bad.

~mike

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Cl@!r3

Maybe stick some plywood under the bins where you dont have heat tape if thats possible.

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then i think the tub would be a little to high above the flexwatt and there wouldn't be any conductive heat through the tub.

~mike

PSSSST..Aleesha

Turn the rack on its top.
Unscrew all the shelves.
Set them directly on the tub put a playing card in between the tub and the shelf that sits on top of it one card at each corner of the tub.
Do this for each one this will give you a 1/16 of an inch clearence.
Then just screw the shelves back flip the rack back over. and presto you should have it.

I can draw it for you if you would like me to..

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Originally Posted by Freakie_frog

Turn the rack on its top.
Unscrew all the shelves.
Set them directly on the tub put a playing card in between the tub and the shelf that sits on top of it one card at each corner of the tub.
Do this for each one this will give you a 1/16 of an inch clearence.
Then just screw the shelves back flip the rack back over. and presto you should have it.
..

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Wouldn't that mean a whole bunch of extra holes? And new holes that are awfully close to the old holes, which would jeopardize the integrity of the wood being drilled? :confuzd: Or maybe I'm just not picturing what you're saying correctly.

I think Ed is right, after looking at the first pic she could do that and off set the new screws to either side of the old one, fill the old hole and repiant it and you would never tell.. there should be plenty of space for a new hole.. i would just add that aleesha may want to pre-drill a starter hole to prevent splitting of the wood..

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JLC

Wouldn't that mean a whole bunch of extra holes? And new holes that are awfully close to the old holes, which would jeopardize the integrity of the wood being drilled? :confuzd: Or maybe I'm just not picturing what you're saying correctly.

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the only problem with this idea is... my hubby routed out the side bars (for a lack of better word to call them) so the shelves fit in each one!

so we'd have to replace all four side bars in reality.

the reason we were going for the 1/4" gap was so we didn't need to drill the bins... the humidity would stay higher and they'd still have ventilation.

it's my understanding (and i could be wrong... haven't had a coffee yet) that the concern is the snakes 'nosing' the bin forward and escaping... so if we put something down the front and back so the bins can't be brought forward (but obviously i can remove it easily to get into the bins) then wouldn't that fix this problem?

Like this..

http://www.wildmorphs.com/1.jpg

oh i get it... i do... i just don't know if there's enough room in the routed out area to do it. of course *lazy thinking cap on here* i could just get him to turn the "vertical legs" (as we are now calling them) inside out and have the routed area visible...

but i can't imagine my hubby being happy about that. he already doesn't like how this turned out... and so i can only imagine his unhappy face if he has to have it look worse.

While all good ideas at 3/8" gap there is still no real need to change and redo all the shelves...the snakes will be too thick to get out.

However, I agree with you Aleesha, I would run a board down the back so the tubs cannot be pushed backwards and then put small dowel pins in the front to keep the tubs moving forward.

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Originally Posted by recycling goddess

oh i get it... i do... i just don't know if there's enough room in the routed out area to do it. of course *lazy thinking cap on here* i could just get him to turn the "vertical legs" (as we are now calling them) inside out and have the routed area visible...

but i can't imagine my hubby being happy about that. he already doesn't like how this turned out... and so i can only imagine his unhappy face if he has to have it look worse.

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Or just route the area a little bigger to allow the shelves to be move up

Thanks for clarifying, Joe and Ed. :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by recycling goddess

it's my understanding (and i could be wrong... haven't had a coffee yet) that the concern is the snakes 'nosing' the bin forward and escaping... so if we put something down the front and back so the bins can't be brought forward (but obviously i can remove it easily to get into the bins) then wouldn't that fix this problem?

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Sounds to me like some sort of locking pin for each tub would be all you need. Just a little dowl or little block of wood or somesuch, attached to each shelf that can twist vertical to keep the tub from sliding out...and twist horizontal to allow the tub to slide freely. And one end of the rack can be up against a wall so you wouldn't even have to do that side, but you could easily do both sides, or nail one long piece of wood along the backside as a permanent catch.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lord jackel

While all good ideas at 3/8" gap there is still no real need to change and redo all the shelves...the snakes will be too thick to get out.

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:bow: i worship thee :bow:


(the less work the better) LOL

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Originally Posted by monk90222

try 2 thin strips of luwann (sp) under each tub to close the gap a bit...

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Sort of similar to what I did. I used 1/8 " peg board b/c it was handy. Since the rack is built it very well may be hard to fit a screwdriver in there and drill in the pieces; however, I don't see why some sort of glue wouldn't work as well.

As far as heat goes I like the fact that it sits a little higher letting the flexwatt breathe a bit, and I have not noticed any major heating issues to getting the temps just right.

There has been no sagging, either. Just an idea, although I'm on my second cup of coffe and a little jittery.

https://ball-pythons.net/gallery/fil...ack_146848.jpg

I agree. the less work the better, and it will look just as good. like it was ment to be.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lord jackel

While all good ideas at 3/8" gap there is still no real need to change and redo all the shelves...the snakes will be too thick to get out.

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well i sure appreciate all the help on this and if anyone feels 3/8" is too much space... PLEASE SPEAK UP.

thank you all... and as joe's sig says

Quote:

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Originally Posted by joe's sig line

"Don't point a finger, Lend a hand"
"A problem well talked about is a problem half sloved"

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i appreciate you all being so supportive of our little rack and for talking this all though so well :bow:

Aleesha. I don't think that your snakes could squeeze through that gap. But I wanted to give my input on a stop for the front of your rack. My first two racks that I built used to be in my house. At that time my kids were younger, and I worried about them opening tubs, so I built a device to lock the rack so that they couldn't get the tubs open. I have attached a picture, but essentially all it is is a 1x4 with two hinges and a circular locking device. The locking bar rotates 90 degrees, and I positioned it so that the tip of the bar would go into the shelf. Then I made a small slit about 1/4" deep in the shelf for the locking bar to fit into. The kids couldn't get in when it was locked, and in your case, the snakes would not be able to poush the tubs open. If you have any more questions, let me know.
http://www.baileyreptiles.com/images/gallery/fp3l.jpg

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Originally Posted by muddoc

Aleesha. I don't think that your snakes could squeeze through that gap. But I wanted to give my input on a stop for the front of your rack. My first two racks that I built used to be in my house. At that time my kids were younger, and I worried about them opening tubs, so I built a device to lock the rack so that they couldn't get the tubs open. I have attached a picture, but essentially all it is is a 1x4 with two hinges and a circular locking device. The locking bar rotates 90 degrees, and I positioned it so that the tip of the bar would go into the shelf. Then I made a small slit about 1/4" deep in the shelf for the locking bar to fit into. The kids couldn't get in when it was locked, and in your case, the snakes would not be able to poush the tubs open. If you have any more questions, let me know.

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Tim...cool idea! Have you patented it yet?:D

tim,

what a GREAT idea!!! my hubby will love that... as he adores hinges. the man is unhinged in real life and i think that's why he loves to add them to things he's building LOL

i'll show him this thread when he wakes up. he worked all night and just got home an hour ago...

YIPPPEEEEE!!!!!

That my friend is a great idea...:rockon:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by muddoc

Aleesha. I don't think that your snakes could squeeze through that gap. But I wanted to give my input on a stop for the front of your rack. My first two racks that I built used to be in my house. At that time my kids were younger, and I worried about them opening tubs, so I built a device to lock the rack so that they couldn't get the tubs open. I have attached a picture, but essentially all it is is a 1x4 with two hinges and a circular locking device. The locking bar rotates 90 degrees, and I positioned it so that the tip of the bar would go into the shelf. Then I made a small slit about 1/4" deep in the shelf for the locking bar to fit into. The kids couldn't get in when it was locked, and in your case, the snakes would not be able to poush the tubs open. If you have any more questions, let me know.
http://www.baileyreptiles.com/images/gallery/fp3l.jpg

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Sweet Tim that would also keep little hands from pulling out tubs while I'm not looking..

Good Idea!

i have some good news. we have a huge closet in that front room where the rack is sitting now (135g tank in there and my new mosaic... so it'll be a little sitting room) and so my hubby is converting the closet into a snake room. ;)

in the summer we can leave the closet doors open for better ventilation and in the winter the doors can be closed (as they are vented doors) to keep in the warmth! i'll put a little light on a timer so they have their day and night cycle... :sweeet:

i love it when stuff comes together!

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Originally Posted by recycling goddess

i have some good news. we have a huge closet in that front room where the rack is sitting now (135g tank in there and my new mosaic... so it'll be a little sitting room) and so my hubby is converting the closet into a snake room. ;)

in the summer we can leave the closet doors open for better ventilation and in the winter the doors can be closed (as they are vented doors) to keep in the warmth! i'll put a little light on a timer so they have their day and night cycle... :sweeet:

i love it when stuff comes together!

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Good news indeed .

Quote:

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Originally Posted by recycling goddess

i have some good news. we have a huge closet in that front room where the rack is sitting now (135g tank in there and my new mosaic... so it'll be a little sitting room) and so my hubby is converting the closet into a snake room. ;)

in the summer we can leave the closet doors open for better ventilation and in the winter the doors can be closed (as they are vented doors) to keep in the warmth! i'll put a little light on a timer so they have their day and night cycle... :sweeet:

i love it when stuff comes together!

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Awesome...we want pictures (before and after)... <<wipes drool off chin>>

you got it!!! :sweeet:

WOW thats an awesome idea...my tot takes the pegs out of the hatchling rack and gets Jaws out :( And with the large rack we had it all put together and painted...then thought of the pegs..but the shelves were to low for us to get in the the drill gun and put holes in it for the pegs :( So I put the lids on them all which is a PITA...I love this idea and will for sure use it! Thanks again for it!!!! :hug:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by muddoc

Aleesha. I don't think that your snakes could squeeze through that gap. But I wanted to give my input on a stop for the front of your rack. My first two racks that I built used to be in my house. At that time my kids were younger, and I worried about them opening tubs, so I built a device to lock the rack so that they couldn't get the tubs open. I have attached a picture, but essentially all it is is a 1x4 with two hinges and a circular locking device. The locking bar rotates 90 degrees, and I positioned it so that the tip of the bar would go into the shelf. Then I made a small slit about 1/4" deep in the shelf for the locking bar to fit into. The kids couldn't get in when it was locked, and in your case, the snakes would not be able to poush the tubs open. If you have any more questions, let me know.
http://www.baileyreptiles.com/images/gallery/fp3l.jpg

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AND WE HAVE A WINNER!!!!

Time, my hubby loves your idea!!! So a hinged locking device it is!

I am glad I could be of service. I had no idea that that many people would like my idea. It worked great for us when the snakes were in the house. I have since removed those locking devices, as I have all of our racks in the snake room now (a seperate building with a lockable entry door.

oops typo... i meant tim not time LOL

you idea is soooo great and it looks sooooo good. it's definitley a winner!!!

Man, that hinged deal is awesome!

When I got my Boaphile rack I was thinking of drilling like a 1/2" hole all way thru all 4 shelfs and putting a thin wood dowl thru but opted out of that because I would have to pull all way out and all 4 tubs be free. So I opted for drilling a small hole on each shelf and I used small eye screws which are high enough to stop each tub and the eye end gives me something to grip between my thumb and index finger to screw and unscrew out. Secure enough for me as I have no small ones to worry about.

The hinged deal with the lock is the real deal :)

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Originally Posted by Freakie_frog

Or just route the area a little bigger to allow the shelves to be move up

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I still like that solution best - And then add the locking side which is also pure genius.:D



dr del

as do i derek... unfortunately, with the little time my hubby has for anything around the house (as he's working crazy busy hours till december) - if this rack is safe for 300g balls... then i don't want to take up any more or his precious hours.

Id say 3/8 gap is no good. Once they put thier nose up there they will realize that they may be able to wedge themselves out, and they will try and succeed the long sides of the 41 qt tub bent easily Ideal gap would be 1/8 of one inch.

Best fix idea would be this, Go to home depot and buy some plexi glass 2/8ths thick and have them cut it to fit the roof space of your rack. then screw them into the cieling area of each tub, this way you fill the gab and the moisture from in the tub for damage your wood ;)

well we picked up the wood for the locking section... just have to get the latch and hinges now.

i haven't talked to my hubby about moving the shelves up a little each... i will when he wakes up. ;) i sure wish i could 'see' these snakes so i know how big they are. grams of weight means nothing to me at this point as i've never weighed dexter.

I think that is a very good idea. However, it will be somewhat costly.