How do I get him to stop??

My snake keeps burrowing..naturally not a problem, but since his last shed (yesterday) he keeps burrowing in the tank and moving all the mulch so he lies directly on the glass which on the other side of the glass is the heat pad. I dont want him to get burnt accidentally

What should i do to make him stop?

You prevent him from getting burnt by keeping the UTH at a proper temperature....which is not more than 95F. Then let the snake go where it wants.


To prevent burrowing, check to make sure your hides are adequate.

This pic is about 2 weeks old.
http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/2145/img2645zy1.jpg

Since that pic I have cleaned out the tank. Switched to Repti-Bark. There is a canopy in there now.

The current temp is 84 degrees and the humidity is 70%

The UTH is the exo-terra heat wave desert medium size...cant really control the temp, but i dont think it gets that hot (95+).

I havent had the problem before but in his shedding he was pushing the mulch all around and now it seems to be a habit every time he goes in the cave.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mricyfire

This pic is about 2 weeks old.
http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/2145/img2645zy1.jpg

Since that pic I have cleaned out the tank. Switched to Repti-Bark. There is a canopy in there now.

The current temp is 84 degrees and the humidity is 70%

The UTH is the exo-terra heat wave desert medium size...cant really control the temp, but i dont think it gets that hot (95+).

I havent had the problem before but in his shedding he was pushing the mulch all around and now it seems to be a habit every time he goes in the cave.

---

You HAVE to control those temps! Look at this thread:

http://www.ball-pythons.net/forums/s...ad.php?t=46547

That's a burn. And it happened very fast.

You can, right away, get yourself to your local hardware store (Home Depot or Lowes or whatever) and pick up a rheostat (dimmer switch). They make them for table lamps and you just plug the UTH into that like an extension cord and then slide the little knob to control the temperature output.

AND...while you're at the hardware store...pick yourself up a real thermometer. The little plastic dials stuck to the sides of the tank are doing nothing to tell you what the temps are against the glass or under that hide. You need a digital thermometer with a probe that can tuck under the hide above the UTH to find out what's really going on there.

Once you have that set up.....get online and order yourself a decent thermostat to replace the rheostat with....that will control the temps in a much more consistent and reliable manner. (But the rheostat is better than nothing and can work with some attention)

As for adequate hides....

Your snake wants tiny little caves it can cram itself into. And if you put one on each side then it won't have to choose between feeling securely snug or laying at the right temperatures.

Hope that doens't come across TOO sharp...but you CAN control those temps....you have to.

X2 on what JLC said.

DITTO TO JUDY!

Elevate the enclosure from the UTH also works. Layer the bottom (underneath the mulch) with newspaper so he doesn't lay directly on the glass. Burns can be very serious, please take caution.

edit, double post....

You may want to look into why your snake is burrowing in the first place. Either your hides arn't adequate (as previously stated), or your snake needs that little extra degrees he gets from gettin closer to the UTH so you might want to take a look at the tanks ambient temps.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JLC

You HAVE to control those temps! Look at this thread:

http://www.ball-pythons.net/forums/s...ad.php?t=46547

That's a burn. And it happened very fast.

You can, right away, get yourself to your local hardware store (Home Depot or Lowes or whatever) and pick up a rheostat (dimmer switch). They make them for table lamps and you just plug the UTH into that like an extension cord and then slide the little knob to control the temperature output.

AND...while you're at the hardware store...pick yourself up a real thermometer. The little plastic dials stuck to the sides of the tank are doing nothing to tell you what the temps are against the glass or under that hide. You need a digital thermometer with a probe that can tuck under the hide above the UTH to find out what's really going on there.

Once you have that set up.....get online and order yourself a decent thermostat to replace the rheostat with....that will control the temps in a much more consistent and reliable manner. (But the rheostat is better than nothing and can work with some attention)

As for adequate hides....

Your snake wants tiny little caves it can cram itself into. And if you put one on each side then it won't have to choose between feeling securely snug or laying at the right temperatures.

Hope that doens't come across TOO sharp...but you CAN control those temps....you have to.

---

BRAVO Judy! :clap:

Purchasing right now...
http://www.zilla-rules.com/products/...hermometer.htm

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by HadesBP18

DITTO TO JUDY!

Elevate the enclosure from the UTH also works. Layer the bottom (underneath the mulch) with newspaper so he doesn't lay directly on the glass. Burns can be very serious, please take caution.

---

I used to use paper towels, but sometimes it didnt seem to get warm enough.

Now the thermostat...is that the herpstats stuff??? which one do I need?
http://www.mgreptiles.com/thermomain.html

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mricyfire

This pic is about 2 weeks old.
http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/2145/img2645zy1.jpg

Since that pic I have cleaned out the tank. Switched to Repti-Bark. There is a canopy in there now.

The current temp is 84 degrees and the humidity is 70%

The UTH is the exo-terra heat wave desert medium size...cant really control the temp, but i dont think it gets that hot (95+).

I havent had the problem before but in his shedding he was pushing the mulch all around and now it seems to be a habit every time he goes in the cave.

---

If your stick on dials (that can be off as much as 10 degrees) are measuring 84 degrees at the TOP of the enclosure, just imagine how hot it is at the bottom. You can't "think" that it's that hot, you have to KNOW it is. Pick up this thermometer at Walmart sooner rather than later and know for sure what your temps are:

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e9...mageloader.gif

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mricyfire

Purchasing right now...
http://www.zilla-rules.com/products/...hermometer.htm



I used to use paper towels, but sometimes it didnt seem to get warm enough.

Now the thermostat...is that the herpstats stuff??? which one do I need?
http://www.mgreptiles.com/thermomain.html

---

If you want to wait a month or two - buy from there. If you want it in a day or two, buy from http://www.reptilebasics.com and pick up a Ranco or Johnson's already wired.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mricyfire

Purchasing right now...
http://www.zilla-rules.com/products/...hermometer.htm



I used to use paper towels, but sometimes it didnt seem to get warm enough.

Now the thermostat...is that the herpstats stuff??? which one do I need?
http://www.mgreptiles.com/thermomain.html

---

Don't buy from mgreptiles....he has highly questionable business ethics.

You can get by great with either a Johnson Control or a Ranco. You can go Herpstat or Helix if you wish, but JC or Ranco cost a bit less and are plenty reliable.

You can order from reptilebasics.com or any number of other online retailers.

While you're at that, you might consider getting some flexwatt to replace the UTH mat you're using. Far more even and reliable heat at a fraction of what those mats cost.

Do what Robin suggests! It is an all in one hot spot, cool spot, and humidity gauge. It cost me $10! I use it for all my boys..er...and girl.

For Flexwatt I suggest the Bean Farm.

woo...those things are kinda expensive...how exactly do they work? Do you plug ur whole setup in the power strip and then u just tell the thing how hot you want it to be and it will provide the right wattage necessary to achieve that?

Also based on those that already have these, do they run up your energy bill a lot? DOnt want roommates to get pissed at me.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mricyfire

woo...those things are kinda expensive...how exactly do they work? Do you plug ur whole setup in the power strip and then u just tell the thing how hot you want it to be and it will provide the right wattage necessary to achieve that?

Also based on those that already have these, do they run up your energy bill a lot? DOnt want roommates to get pissed at me.

---

Herpstats and Helix will control the amount of power going to the heat source to maintain a contstant temp. JC and Ranco turn the heat source on and off to maintain the temps you want. Either one is fine for your situation.

Yes, if you order it pre-wired, it comes with an electrical outlet like an extension cord attached to a control box. You plug your heat source into that outlet...plug that outlet into the wall....and then set the control box to the temp you want to maintain....then put the temperature probe over the source of the heat.

And it will actually cost LESS to use a t-stat than it would to run a UTH full blast all the time because it decreases the amount of energy being used in order to maintain lower, proper temps.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mricyfire

This pic is about 2 weeks old.
http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/2145/img2645zy1.jpg

Since that pic I have cleaned out the tank. Switched to Repti-Bark. There is a canopy in there now.

The current temp is 84 degrees and the humidity is 70%

The UTH is the exo-terra heat wave desert medium size...cant really control the temp, but i dont think it gets that hot (95+).

I havent had the problem before but in his shedding he was pushing the mulch all around and now it seems to be a habit every time he goes in the cave.

---

we use the exo terr rain forest heat pad, just wanted you to know with out a thermostat the hetpad will get over 115 degrees upto 120.... i have tested it with a temp gun.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JLC

Herpstats and Helix will control the amount of power going to the heat source to maintain a contstant temp. JC and Ranco turn the heat source on and off to maintain the temps you want. Either one is fine for your situation.

Yes, if you order it pre-wired, it comes with an electrical outlet like an extension cord attached to a control box. You plug your heat source into that outlet...plug that outlet into the wall....and then set the control box to the temp you want to maintain....then put the temperature probe over the source of the heat.

And it will actually cost LESS to use a t-stat than it would to run a UTH full blast all the time because it decreases the amount of energy being used in order to maintain lower, proper temps.

---

The Helix and Herpstats seems like a more favorable design to me...where can I get them from...cheapest?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mricyfire

The Helix and Herpstats seems like a more favorable design to me...where can I get them from...cheapest?

---

You can get them most economically (not cheapest) from http://www.reptilebasics.com

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by KIBPLOVER

we use the exo terr rain forest heat pad, just wanted you to know with out a thermostat the hetpad will get over 115 degrees upto 120.... i have tested it with a temp gun.

---

thats not good...i think the desert gets hotter....thank God for this forum...ordered digital reader...just need thermostat.

we have 2 40 gal breeder tanks and 1 5 tub rack, we have 3 cheap esu 1000 thermostats and are doing away with them, they are 30 bucks a piece don't get them.. we are gonna spend 215 bucks on the herpstat 2, i can hook the tanks up to 1 output and the rack on the other....


http://spyderrobotics.com/products/herpstat2.html

thats the manufacture

One last question.

If I decide to get Helix I will be buying the DBS1000 correct?
If I Decide to get Herpstats I will be buying the HerpstatND correct?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mricyfire

Purchasing right now...
http://www.zilla-rules.com/products/...hermometer.htm

---

I have two of those and freakin love them! They sit outside the cage and are easy to read at a very quick glance! You will not be at all disappointed!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by SnakeEyes

I have two of those and freakin love them! They sit outside the cage and are easy to read at a very quick glance! You will not be at all disappointed!

---

Good to know...do you use any of the other features on it?

I just turn the alarms off, dont see a pont in those, but I do check the max and the min to see if my UTH ever spike or if the temps have gotten to low. so simple to use its not even funny.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mricyfire

One last question.

If I decide to get Helix I will be buying the DBS1000 correct?
If I Decide to get Herpstats I will be buying the HerpstatND correct?

---

was hoping someone can answer this one for me.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mricyfire

was hoping someone can answer this one for me.

---

Yes and maybe. Herpstat ND has the Night Drop already built in. If you don't plan on breeding, you probably won't need the night drop and can save yourself a few dollars by just getting the original Herpstat.

id use a ranco and if you want nite drop get a johnson controls with nite drop from reptile basics good quality and both are about the same price. not to mention a great place to deal with