I NEED HELP. please.

Alright guys.
i have a younger ball python.
the snake was feeding fine for some time until his shed. his shed sequence this time seemed to take a while, his skin was a blueish tint for a while and yeah he finally finished shedding and he looks okay. the problem was that i had to switch his encloser before his shed was complete. so initially after his shed i figured that my snake needs to be offered some food. he showed no interest to the mouse at all and really shy'd away from it. so i thought to myself , okay maybe its just that time (he's not ready to eat, stressed because of shedding/new tank) so as days go by still no eating. now i then looked into heat issues. i didn't think he was warm enough in this new encloser so i ended up buying a bigger daytime light and a UTH (exoterra). now since the temps and humidity is up higher, the snake moves around from his hiding alot more. So i figured i would give the snake some time before i would offer him food so he could adjust to the temps first. Now that i offer him food he seems really interested, seems like he wants to eat but when it comes to him taking his strike and coil on the mouse , he misses EVERYTIME. I am really worried about my snake. it has probably been like 4-6 weeks without him eating. i also notice now that one of his eye caps looks as if theres a little piece of skin or something (really dry) on his right hand eye.

please give me some help someone. i am really worried about my snake.

What are the temps, humidity of this new tank and how long were you waiting between offerings?

as of now. the humidity is around 50-60 during daytime. and the temp maintains around 85 with basking. and i have been waiting 2 day periods coz hes a real shy one.

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Originally Posted by Phreak

What are the temps, humidity of this new tank and how long were you waiting between offerings?

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Ditto to above and what size tank, number of hides, and how have you offered food F/T, P/K, live?

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Originally Posted by varasios

as of now. the humidity is around 50-60 during daytime. and the temp maintains around 85 with basking. and i have been waiting 2 day periods coz hes a real shy one.

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Ok humidity is good maybe even alittle high. 85 is ok for cool side but hot side needs to be 90-95 on the ground. How young of a snake are we talking 1 year or 3 months

Your temps should be 90-95 hot side and 80-85 cool side. This will help with any future sheds. Your humidity seems fine. If the stuck eyecap is affecting his eating then there are ways to get it off but as I am not experienced I will let someone who is more suitable to answer this do so.

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Originally Posted by Freakie_frog

Ditto to above and what size tank, number of hides, and how have you offered food F/T, P/K, live?

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The tank is like a wide style vivarium (why i bought the stronger light) because it has about 24 inches of height to it. he has been offered stunned live mice the whole time. and has one hide cave(hot spot). he spends most of his time in his hide. especially before i added more heat.

BP do go off feed and it can be for various reasons such as overfeeding, breeding, husbandry, illness, stress, etc

How big is your BP and how big is the new enclosure?

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i didn't think he was warm enough in this new encloser so i ended up buying a bigger daytime light and a UTH (exoterra).

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Sounds like guessing to me which you can't do, you MUST KNOW your temps and humidity level and the one of the accurate way to do it a digital thermometer/hydrometer like this one http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p...s/Acu-Rite.gifthat you can purchased at Walmart. (Dial and stick are not accurate)

Once you have the proper measure make sure you have 80-84 on the cool side, 90-94 on the warm side, and 50%-60% humidity.

How big are your hides and what kind are they?

Any detail will help narow it down.

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Originally Posted by Freakie_frog

Ok humidity is good maybe even alittle high. 85 is ok for cool side but hot side needs to be 90-95 on the ground. How young of a snake are we talking 1 year or 3 months

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i bought him from the pet store about 6 months ago and he was about 2 months old i think.

Two hides would help keep him eating by keeping him less stressed. An active snake is a stressed snake in most cases. It seems he wants to thermoregulate but cant because he would be insecure without a hide. You could try different food (live, F/T) to better your chances of him eating.

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Originally Posted by varasios

The tank is like a wide style vivarium (why i bought the stronger light) because it has about 24 inches of height to it. he has been offered stunned live mice the whole time. and has one hide cave(hot spot). he spends most of his time in his hide. especially before i added more heat.

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Ok try this get you temps right, get him a another hide just like the frist one for his cool side.

Is he in a high traffic area of the house, by a tv or radio, do you play loud music in the room he's in?

Crumple up some news paper and put in the tank don't offer any food, don't mess with him just leave him be for a week other than spot cleaning and water changes if needed. In a week offer him a live 100% live mouse and see how he goes.

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Originally Posted by Phreak

Two hides would help keep him eating by keeping him less stressed. An active snake is a stressed snake in most cases. It seems he wants to thermoregulate but cant because he would be insecure without a hide. You could try different food (live, F/T) to better your chances of him eating.

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I had the same hide in the previous tank i had him in and he was eating good once a week.

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Originally Posted by varasios

I had the same hide in the previous tank i had him in and he was eating good once a week.

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A change in environment without the needed security can trigger stress. This is way we suggest after any major enclosure changes, i.e hides, viv to tub you allow them to settle in. The added stress of shedding is also a factor. Picture being unable to see and totally sun burned (from eyelids to toenails) and when you heal and can see your in a strange place with millions of years of instinct telling you to hide or get eaten and you cant, grabbing a cheese burger would be way down on your list of thing to do too.

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Originally Posted by varasios

I had the same hide in the previous tank i had him in and he was eating good once a week.

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Just because he was eating it doesn't mean the tank setup was ideal. This tank is bigger therefore more stress on him.

i've heard a rumour that ball pythons prefer the scent of a gerbil. Is this true? Why my snake is missing his strikes everytime is really confusing me too.
I'm just scared because he is getting to be thinner.

Gerbils are their natural prey.

You said he had dry skin around his eye? This is most likely a stuck eyecap. Your snake is basically blind in one eye for now. This will probably come off with his next shed but can be taken off. You should let someone with experience tell you how to do that.

Think you should listen to everyone's advice. Have you tried thawed or live mice instead of "stunned"?

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Originally Posted by varasios

i've heard a rumour that ball pythons prefer the scent of a gerbil. Is this true? Why my snake is missing his strikes everytime is really confusing me too.
I'm just scared because he is getting to be thinner.

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They are imprint feeders. If he was eating mice or rats before then thats dinner to him. You get him stuck on gerbils and he might not go back to mice or rats. Striking and missing??? They are given what amounts to almost perfect smell, movement tracking sight, and heat seeking abilities. Hes not missing he's defending himself another sign of stress. You see them strike enough and you'll know the difference if they want to grab and hold on they will.

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Originally Posted by varasios

i've heard a rumour that ball pythons prefer the scent of a gerbil. Is this true? Why my snake is missing his strikes everytime is really confusing me too.
I'm just scared because he is getting to be thinner.

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I would not think about changing his food, work on your setup this is most likely where the problem come from and take it from there.

BP are imprint feeder and you do not want him to be imprint on gerbils.

A 6 months old BP in such a big enclosure is the first problem.

Other problems is your guessing your temps, get a good thermometer as I suggested in my previous post, you also MUST have 2 tight identical hides (all side touching his body).

By any chance, did you happen to get one of those Exo-Terra cages, like this one?

http://www.ciliatus.com/content/imag...m_1%5B1%5D.jpg

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Originally Posted by Phreak

Gerbils are their natural prey.

You said he had dry skin around his eye? This is most likely a stuck eyecap. Your snake is basically blind in one eye for now. This will probably come off with his next shed but can be taken off. You should let someone with experience tell you how to do that.

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Not really blind but rather blurry vision. I am working on getting a video showing how to remove a stuck eye cap. For now I'd just let it be Phreak is right its not harmful and will most likely come off with the next shed given good humidity.

You seem to be dismissing all the good advice that has been offered to you. Follow those suggestions, BEFORE resorting to feeding gerbils. An incorrectly set up enclosure can and WILL put them off feed.

k, well
i'm gonna work on his setup asap.
i wasn't going to feed him a gerbil, i was just curious.
do you suggest me switching to a smaller tank for now with smaller hides?

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Originally Posted by varasios

k, well
i'm gonna work on his setup asap.
i wasn't going to feed him a gerbil, i was just curious.
do you suggest me switching to a smaller tank for now with smaller hides?

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Can you post a pic of your tank how long is it?

I'd say no on the tanks change I'd be willing to say thats what put him off feed to start with. Try what I suggested with the newspaper and hides first. Keep an eye on his weight and keep us posted.

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Originally Posted by elevatethis

By any chance, did you happen to get one of those Exo-Terra cages, like this one?

http://www.ciliatus.com/content/imag...m_1%5B1%5D.jpg

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yeah it looks similar to that.

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Originally Posted by varasios

yeah it looks similar to that.

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Theres your problem. Disregard what I said about no tank change Take it back and do a set up like this

http://www.ball-pythons.net/forums/s...ad.php?t=32800.

You can make them just as pretty and still provide what your snake needs.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by varasios

k, well
i'm gonna work on his setup asap.
i wasn't going to feed him a gerbil, i was just curious.
do you suggest me switching to a smaller tank for now with smaller hides?

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Yes, smaller enclosure and 2 tight identical hides with all sides touching his body and a good digital thermometer/hydrometer because you must know is temps not guess as this lead me to believe you do.

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i didn't think he was warm enough in this new encloser so i ended up buying a bigger daytime light and a UTH (exoterra).

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Once you change your setup give him 7 to 10 days to adjust to his new enclosure and limit your handling, then offer the same type of prey you use to offer him when he was eating.

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Originally Posted by varasios

yeah it looks similar to that.

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Definitely go back to what you had before.

Those types of terrariums are made for arboreal species and absolutely not intended to meet the needs of ball pythons.

The good thing is, you've got a cage that can house something more appropriately suited for that cage - crested gecko, tokay, possibly a chameleon if your house isn't too dry - but get your ball set up properly first.

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Originally Posted by varasios

yeah it looks similar to that.

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Well the problem is that this type of enclosure is that it is not appropriate for a BP, too much height meaning too much open spaces which can stress a BP.

Floor space is more important then height when it comes to BP.

Now for a good idea of enclosure sizes this is what you can go by

Glass enclosure: Use the rule of thumb the enclosure should be 2/3 of the length of your Ball Python.

Plastic tubs:

Baby – 15 Quarts (17"L x 11 1/8"W x 6 3/8"H)
Sub Adult – 32 Quarts (23 1/2"L x 16 1/4"W x 6 3/8"H)
Adult – 41 Quarts (34 3/4"L x 16 1/2"W x 6"H)

alright i'll switch it back to the old 20 gallon regular tank with those hide caves and proper temps. on the 20 gallon tank what light would you suggest me using?

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Originally Posted by varasios

alright i'll switch it back to the old 20 gallon regular tank with those hide caves and proper temps. on the 20 gallon tank what light would you suggest me using?

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NO light if you can help it. If your UTH is on a thermostat you should be ok. See that sticky I posted on how to cover the top. They use a light and you can if you need to but they suck humidity out of the air which can mean stuck sheds, dented eyes and even soaking.

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Originally Posted by Phreak

Gerbils are their natural prey.

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Actually, they aren't. Gerbils that are sold in the pet trade here are from Mongolia.

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Originally Posted by rabernet

Actually, they aren't. Gerbils that are sold in the pet trade here are from Mongolia.

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Bingo.. The African soft furred rat is... LOL

the heatpad i have for him is just the small rainforest one from the pet store that sticks on. i'm not sure if it has a thermostat or not

I heard somewhere gerbils were. Oh well disregard that statement.

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Originally Posted by varasios

the heatpad i have for him is just the small rainforest one from the pet store that sticks on. i'm not sure if it has a thermostat or not

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It most likely doesn't. It would be a high to low knob, if it was a cheap thermostat. I think I've heard they are unreliable as well. You'll probably need to buy one.

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Originally Posted by Phreak

I heard somewhere gerbils were. Oh well disregard that statement.

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They are from the same family (jerboa) though! :D

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Originally Posted by varasios

the heatpad i have for him is just the small rainforest one from the pet store that sticks on. i'm not sure if it has a thermostat or not

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anything like this is finehttp://www.wildmorphs.com/uploads/exo.jpg

http://www.wildmorphs.com/uploads/zoomed.jpg

you can get a thermostat from www.reptilebasics.com. DO NOT use a uth with out a thermostat you will burn your snake.

hope this helps

Check out this sticky in the forum:

http://www.ball-pythons.net/forums/s...ad.php?t=32800

Basically, this thread covers setting up a glass tank "Pet Store Style" using specialty reptile supplies for the enclosure. There's better ways to go about it, but its a good guide that illustrates key points you'll want to address in tweaking your enclosure.

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Originally Posted by elevatethis

Check out this sticky in the forum:

http://www.ball-pythons.net/forums/s...ad.php?t=32800

Basically, this thread covers setting up a glass tank "Pet Store Style" using specialty reptile supplies for the enclosure. There's better ways to go about it, but its a good guide that illustrates key points you'll want to address in tweaking your enclosure.

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Thats three times now they will hopefully check it out.

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Originally Posted by Freakie_frog

Thats three times now they will hopefully check it out.

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hey guys.
yeah so i spent most of my day after talking to you guys about my bp resetting his tank in a regular 20 gal. i did the whole tinfoil and tape cover thing and i provided 2 hides on each side and have Rainforest exo terra heat pad on him and a 75 watt red bulb on him. the humidity is staying now at a constant rate of 65. I'm waiting to buy a digi thermo/hydro. and i used that substrate thats in sticky's tutorial. When i switched the snake in the 20 gal he checked everything out then went in his hide cave on the hot side. i think things are okay especially since the humidity level is looking real good. what are maybe some possible things i should keep an eye on in the meantime?

Just him roaming. Now leave him be for a week. before you try to feed.

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Originally Posted by Freakie_frog

Just him roaming. Now leave him be for a week. before you try to feed.

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Roaming occaisionally will be a good thing?
also i'm gonna take a few pics of this new set up... they'll be up sometime in this thread. please comment and critisize on what i can do to improve my situation.

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Originally Posted by varasios

Roaming occaisionally will be a good thing?
also i'm gonna take a few pics of this new set up... they'll be up sometime in this thread. please comment and critisize on what i can do to improve my situation.

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Roaming occasionally is OK but roaming 24-7 is not.

They tend to roam the cage a lot when they are in new places or if something is off in the enclosure, temperature or humidity-wise.

So, if he's been staying in his hide, he's at least comfortable for now. Lay off the handling for about a week and don't disturb him while he settles in. If you can keep your hands off of him and he's warm, I bet he'll eat for you in a couple of weeks without a problem.

should i be expecting him to move to the other hide if its too hot?

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Originally Posted by varasios

should i be expecting him to move to the other hide if its too hot?

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Yea its called thermo regulating.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by varasios

Roaming occaisionally will be a good thing?
also i'm gonna take a few pics of this new set up... they'll be up sometime in this thread. please comment and critisize on what i can do to improve my situation.

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http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...e/IMG_0589.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...e/IMG_0590.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...e/IMG_0591.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...e/IMG_0592.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...e/IMG_0593.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...e/IMG_0594.jpg

so far looks good I like the hide covered by substrate

Looks cozy!