My snake wont eat

i made a longer more detailed thread, but i guess no one took the time to read it.

Basically he's healthy, i use a heat lamp and a heater.

He's new i just bought him off a friend, he's been here 2 months and hansn't ate. Could it be because it's the winter season and some bp's dont eat much at that time.

Also i've tried live and pre killed food.
I hate giing him live cause i worry about him, like what can i do to keep the mouse from hurting my snake?

anyway please answer

Well I did and just post an answer which was the following

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Originally Posted by GA_Ball_Pythons

Where do I start first very active with you and you have him for 2 month is not a good sign, hyper activity is usually a sign of stress.

Everything is OK except is does not eat! Well often food refusal is related to husbandry issues.

Now here is what your BP needs a cool side 80-84 a warm side 90-94 not sure are you measure your temps since you do not mention it but here is the proper and accurate way to do it.

You need to measure your temp at the bottom of your enclosure with a digital thermometer/ hydrometer you can get one at walmart and it look like this.

Stick or dial thermometer do not work and saying your room is warm does not mean it is warm enough with the proper temperature for a BP.

Your BP needs 2 tight hides one on each side, that he can squeeze in (all the sides of the hides should touch your BP’s body.

BP needs belly heat to help with digestion and for overall health to provide belly heat you will need a UTH or flexwatt heat tape as well as a thermostat to maintain proper temps and ovoid over-heating of the device.

Now for humidity you have several option.

Have a substrate that holds humidity better (Cypress mulch, repti-bark).
Spray your enclosure

Have a second water dish on the warm side over the UTH

Have a humid hide.

When it comes to maintaining a glass tank properly I will send you back to this post

http://www.ball-pythons.net/forums/showthread.php?t=32800


Now for the feeding I would highly recommend you do not wiggle a live prey in front of your BP all you do is stress the prey which will make it more aggressive toward your snake

Now your BP is a year old so do not waste your time feeding pinkies you need to first provide proper husbandry know your temps have proper humidity then once everything is proper attempt feeding

What would help is to know what your BP was eating before being in your care Live, F/T, Mice, Rats?

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Hun, it's Sunday night. Alot of people that participate on this forum have children who have school in the morning. Just be patient and someone will reply.

Also, if you look in the first thread you posted, there are already 3-4 responses.

Yep I responded:)

Sorry i just noticed those now. I dont really tend to be impatient, i just worry a bit. = )

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Originally Posted by borat1

Sorry i just noticed those now. I dont really tend to be impatient, i just worry a bit. = )

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Thats okay LOL

= )

Do you think my electric heater plus my heat lamp, plus my two hide boxes should be good enough to keep my snake feeling comfortable?

as far as his cage goes anyway.

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Originally Posted by borat1

= )

Do you think my electric heater plus my heat lamp, plus my two hide boxes should be good enough to keep my snake feeling comfortable?

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I have no idea, but if your temps are 82-84 on one side of the cage, 92-94 on the other and you're measuring them with a good digital thermometer, you're off to a good start! ;)

-adam

sup! BP can sometimes be really finiky... They have been known to "fast" for long periods of time.. sometimes even up to a year! All you can do is go to a vet if your Little buddy starts to loose weight. Another factor is the kind of food you are feeding your little snake. if you are feeding frozen try live, or vis versa. I have to piss off Kyna ( my baby BP) by bumping her nose with her food or running it down her back (works everytime for me) if you are feeding frozen (may sound nasty) but try cutting the mouse alittle to allow your snake to smell it. Some snakes also like 2 frozen food. Try thawing a frozen rodent then freezing it again... it makes the mouse smell more.. I hope this helps! good lucK!!!

Peace, love snakes! :rockon:

P.S. When trying the "pissing off" technique... IT TAKES A LONG TIME!!! It took me 30 min the first time but it gets easier. ( this way only works with feedign tongs. NEVER TRY WITHOUT TONGS!!!)

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Originally Posted by RoyalGuardian

sup! BP can sometimes be really finiky...

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In my experince, a well establised bp that is kept properly is never finiky ... finiky bp are usually the result of improper husbandry ... word. :sweeet:

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Originally Posted by RoyalGuardian

I have to piss off Kyna ( my baby BP) by bumping her nose with her food or running it down her back (works everytime for me)

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Lucky little snake fo shizzle! :carrot:

-adam

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Originally Posted by Adam_Wysocki

In my experince, a well establised bp that is kept properly is never finiky ... finiky bp are usually the result of improper husbandry ... word. :sweeet:



Lucky little snake fo shizzle! :carrot:

-adam

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Well sometimes but thats not always true. Just like everything else BP have their own personalities and sometimes they just don't feel like eating. Baby ball pythons like mine need little pushes and I think that having a new home and a new family would make me a bit nervous too.. maybe your BP just hasnt come to terms with such a big change. they are after all rather shy by nature.. I got lucky with my BP she is a fiesty little lady. its her personality. Get to know your BP's personality and once you understand their personal needs you will be sucessful.

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Originally Posted by RoyalGuardian

Well sometimes but thats not always true.

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Are you basing this on personal experience working with p. regius? I have a little bit of experience working with the species and other than the extremely rare exception, I completely disagree.

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Originally Posted by RoyalGuardian

Baby ball pythons like mine need little pushes and I think that having a new home and a new family would make me a bit nervous too.

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Hatchling ball pythons kept at the correct temps and given security are voracious eaters, often gaining 10 times their own body wieght in their first year. During their first year, their metabolims are the strongest they will be for their entire lives and if setup correctly will eat every time they are offered food.

-adam

Hi,

I've never heard of the "pissemorf" technique - I thought annoying the snake discouraged the feeding response? Mind you I'd try and bite anyone who ran a defrosted rat down my back in all fairness.

I just got one of my "stubborn" hatchlings to eat on his own - I'm embarassed to say the trigger was something basic I completely forgot to try :oops: I scented the mouse fuzzy with a rat and he nearly took me fingers off. Only one non feeder left and I'm starting again at the begginging of the tips list in case I missed anything else so flaming obvious.

oh and ..

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I have a little bit of experience

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just went into my personal dictionary as the definition for "understatment" :)


dr del

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Originally Posted by borat1

= )Do you think my electric heater plus my heat lamp, plus my two hide boxes should be good enough to keep my snake feeling comfortable?.

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Well my house is 72 degrees to me it is a warm environment it and feel comfortable? Does that mean it is sufficient for a BP? Off course not.

What seems comfortable to you has far as temp and what you consider warm does not mean it is proper for your BP.

If you do not measure your temp and do not provide the proper gradient temp as I stated in my previous post then no it is not good enough for your BP and as also previously stated husbandry issues lead to a BP going off feed and if your temp are not good it could lead to way worth such as RI

First thing get an accurate thermomether/hydromether to properly measure your temp.


Like this http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p...hermometer.jpg

Then get the supply you need to provide your BP with proper husbandry. This is the first step to solve your problem

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Originally Posted by borat1

= )im using a heat lamp in the middle of the cage, and one of those plug in electric heaters to add to the heat of his cage. I dont have the money to get expensive things so im managing him as best i can, but it's deff a warm enviornment.

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And if you think you don’t have the money right now to buy the supply you need to provide proper heat wait until the lack of proper temp lead to a RI and you have to see a vet and pay for anti-biotic.

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Originally Posted by RoyalGuardian

Well sometimes but thats not always true. Just like everything else BP have their own personalities and sometimes they just don't feel like eating. Baby ball pythons like mine need little pushes and I think that having a new home and a new family would make me a bit nervous too.. maybe your BP just hasnt come to terms with such a big change. they are after all rather shy by nature.. I got lucky with my BP she is a fiesty little lady. its her personality. Get to know your BP's personality and once you understand their personal needs you will be sucessful.

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Hehehe - funny how all 300+ of Adam's eat every week :rolleyes:

As do all 15 of mine - no trickery needed. Proper husbandry, and appropriately sized prey once a week and they occassionally refuse when in shed, but that's not very often. I've got babies all the way to adults.