UTH (belly heat) Please help

I recently have second guessed myself at my Ramses' setup. I have him in a 30"x12"x12" glass tank with a red heat lamp to warm the hot side during the day and a reptile blacklight for night time use. He's just a little guy still, at a 141 grams and about 22". I put the UTH on the end of the cool side and have it all controlled with timers and a rheostat on the heat lamp. My temps are near perfect from what I have read: 90-92 on the warm side during the day, 84-86 on the cool side. 80-81 on the warm side at night, 77-78 on the cool side. I also monitor the upper end of the warm side, and it stays about 5-6 degrees warmer than down low, so if he wants to bask, it is warmer as he goes higher.
My UTH is on the end of the tank, however, not below. I did this because that was the manufacturer's recomendation (Zoo-Med UTH). It said to use the UTH as a secondary heat source and not the primary.
When I take my litttle guy out from his warm hide, he is always nice and warm, evenly throughout his body. So should I change my set up? Do snakes need the underneath heat for digestion like iguanas or something??? Any input would really set my mind at ease!

You do not want to have your temperatures drop at night. For nonbreeding snakes, it's best to keep temps stable 24/7.

Tanks can be difficult to heat, and heating from the side is difficult and inefficent since heat rises. Your best bet would be to get a UTH (under tank heater) under your warm side.

Also be careful with the heat lamps, as they can result in thermal burns if not monitored closely.

How's the humidity in the tank? It should be 50-60%.

also, that red heat light is okay to use 24/7

Thanks all. Temps are easily maintanable at a constant if I so desire. Humidity stays between 51 and 54 percent depending on relative humidity outside of the tank.
This is all due to the way I customized the lid I'm using. it is a frame from what used to be an all screen top. I removed the screening, and replaced 2/3 with 3/4 inch plywood. I drilled lots of ventilation holes. On the other 1/3 (the warm side) I used 3/4 inch plywood and cut a whole roughly just less than the size of the frame and covered it with screen.
No risk of burns. I have the heat lamp on a rheostat and it is a good 6 to 8 inches from the screen.
Thanks for all the input. So does anyone know if I go with this set up, if putting the UTH under the tank is a must??

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Kojak

Thanks all. Temps are easily maintanable at a constant if I so desire. Humidity stays between 51 and 54 percent depending on relative humidity outside of the tank.
This is all due to the way I customized the lid I'm using. it is a frame from what used to be an all screen top. I removed the screening, and replaced 2/3 with 3/4 inch plywood. I drilled lots of ventilation holes. On the other 1/3 (the warm side) I used 3/4 inch plywood and cut a whole roughly just less than the size of the frame and covered it with screen.
No risk of burns. I have the heat lamp on a rheostat and it is a good 6 to 8 inches from the screen.
Thanks for all the input. So does anyone know if I go with this set up, if putting the UTH under the tank is a must??

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yes

Why? My snake is receiving enough heat on the warm side both during the day , and at night. The heat being generated from above actually warms his hide and branch, and he often basks on top of them. Do snakes require belly heat for digestion. I kept Green Iguanas for 7 years and I know that they DO require a direct source of heat to activate bacteria in the stomach that aid in digestion. Are snakes similar in this way? If not, then why is it a must for them to receive a heat source from directly below?
Not trying to argue, I just want to understand. At the same time I have nearly optimal temps and humidity, with the exception of wether or not to have a UTH mounted underneath. :salute:

Also, why would you not have a slight drop in temps at night to simulate the natural changes between day and night?
Correct me if I'm wrong, but for breeding don't you gradually drop the OVERALL temperature ranges and at the same time decrease the amount of day light hours while increasing the amount of darkness all to simulate the winter months? After which you reverse the process to simulate the coming of Spring, all of this to bring females into season?
Just trying to learn all I can folks, and make my Ramses as comfortable and healthy as possible. :salute:

you want your temps in the warm hide to be 90-92 - not the temps around your warm hide.

that's why you need the UTH to be mounted underneath. :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Kojak

Also, why would you not have a slight drop in temps at night to simulate the natural changes between day and night?
Correct me if I'm wrong, but for breeding don't you gradually drop the OVERALL temperature ranges and at the same time decrease the amount of day light hours while increasing the amount of darkness all to simulate the winter months? After which you reverse the process to simulate the coming of Spring, all of this to bring females into season?
Just trying to learn all I can folks, and make my Ramses as comfortable and healthy as possible. :salute:

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Are you breeding? If not, then there is really no need to drop temps or simulate winter. This will cause many snakes to go off feed and it is not necessary. You say it is to try and simulate nature, but is being in an enclosure and having an appropriately sized prey dropped in front of you every week natural?

Understood. I know we can't simulate all aspects of nature, I just thought it to be logical to simulate as many factors as possible.
So I suppose some rearranging may be in order...anyone know a good way to remove adhesive backing from a UTH? ;)

Not trying to simulate winter, was just wondering why you WOULDN'T simulate the difference in day and night temps. I was just using that as a reply as to why not to simulate DAY and NIGHT temps even in non breeders. So a constant temp is ok then? No long term affects? :salute:

OK, Thanks for all the advice everyone. I have moved the UTH and all temps and humidity are right where they should be. I appreciate all your patience. :salute:

I'm no expert, but I'd personally reccomend getting a better heat mat. The Fluker's brand is working well for me and is a better size. I tried a Zoo med heat mat at first and it only heating up a small square (*the may only being 8" by 8"). With my temp gun I was able to see how it was spreading the heat. I'd be like 96* in the middle (no snake was in the cage at the time) and 90* on the edges and 80* right next to the pad and 70 and inch away and so on. It also is not supposed to be taken off because on the instruction it says removing it once placed voids any garuntee because to could harm the electrical components. I really didn't like it at all and returned in withing 4 and 1/2 hours of buying it. I also noticed the thing on the package saying sticking it to the side was the prefered method. Don't they know what the U.T.H. stands for on their own package?
Anywho, I found fluker's mats and they are sealed and can be taped on the underside via sealing tape and can be removed at any time .It is better size too.

good to hear :)