Dying Beta

Okay this might seem silly to some of you but please bear with me. My old beta fish Ping whose at least 4 years old seems to be dying very slowly. Over the last week or so he's been unable to swim properly and mostly is laying on the rocks on the bottom of his big bowl. When I feed him he tries to come to the surface but is mostly struggling and swimming as if his swim bladder isn't working properly (sort of sideways and almost flipping over on his back poor thing).

Now I know it's "only" a fish but this is my pet and I do really hate to see any animal die inch by inch. Is there anything I can add to his water that would humanely end his life? He's barely able to get to his food so he's likely starving to death and I just don't want that to happen. I can't just remove him from the water and let him die that way...seems too awful to me to do that.

Any idea my fishy friends?

I have had to euthanize a fish in the past. I used a vodka/water mixture but here is something I found that looks more humane:

http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-the-...ize-a-fish.htm

Thank you so much Jamie. I'm going out today so I will pick up the ingredients to euthanize old Ping. Silly to be so upset about a dang fish but he's been a lovely little fellow, very interactive and friendly for a fish and I just can't stand watching him go this way. Even a fish shouldn't have to die inch by inch. Hugs bro, thanks for the link.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by frankykeno

Thank you so much Jamie. I'm going out today so I will pick up the ingredients to euthanize old Ping. Silly to be so upset about a dang fish but he's been a lovely little fellow, very interactive and friendly for a fish and I just can't stand watching him go this way. Even a fish shouldn't have to die inch by inch. Hugs bro, thanks for the link.

---

Fish are still pets and like all animals deserve to be treated with respect. Best of luck with that method.

I had a old beta a few years ago that almost saw his 4th birthday that was acting like yours. I too was very upset because he was a great little fish and I didn't want to see him in any kind of pain. I used the vodka/water mixture.

ive heard cervical dislocation (which i wouldnt think is a very good choice for that small a fish). Check this site http://www.piranha-fury.com/informat...icle.php?id=17. It suggests a mix of clove oil and vodka.

heres a good article I dug up a couple years ago to post on a fish forum...

Here's the University of Washington's IACUC (Institutional Animal Care and Use Committee) approved protocols for fish euthanasia.

PLEASE NOTE THAT PRIMARY METHODS CAN BE USED ALONE BUT SECONDARY METHODS STILL REQUIRE ANOTHER METHOD TO ENSURE DEATH

UW Euthanasia of Fish Species - 2002
Approved July 18, 2002

Background: Small fish species (2-6cm in length) typically utilized in laboratory research include zebrafish, medaka, fathead minnow, goldfish, swordtail, and platyfish among others. Large fish species (>6cm in length) typically used include salmon, trout, tilapia, catfish, hybrid-striped bass, bass, bluegill, sturgeon and others.

Policy: Chemical agents such as tricaine methanesulfonate (MS-222 or TMS) or benzocaine hydrochloride (ethyl aminobenzoate), should be used as the method of choice for the euthanasia all fish species. The dosage required for euthanasia with either of these compounds is higher than the anesthetic dose, but varies greatly with species, size, and water temperature. In addition, a longer time of exposure to the chemical agent (relative to anesthesia) is required to ensure that death occurs. Fish should be removed only after ten minutes have passed since their last observed opercular movements (respiration) have occurred.

A. Primary euthanasia methods for fish (methods that can be used alone) include:

1. MS-222/TMS- dosage: 50 to 250 mg/L
[buffered to pH 7.0 with sodium bicarbonate (NaHCO3)]
Note: Fish euthanized with MS-222 cannot be used for human consumption.

2. Benzocaine-dosage: 50 to 500 mg/L
Note: Fish euthanized with Benzocaine cannot be used for human consumption.

3. Exposure to a solution saturated with carbon dioxide (CO2):
When possible, carbon dioxide should be used from a compressed gas cylinder source. However, neither the 1993 nor the 2000 Report of the AVMA Panel on Euthanasia address the issue of the source/production of carbon dioxide as it relates to aquatic animal species. The use of chemical methods for the production of carbon dioxide, such as a saturated solution of sodium bicarbonate or Alka-Seltzer ®, has been proven quite effective with fish as noted in the literature. When dosed adequately sodium bicarbonate renders rapid loss of consciousness and death (4,6). As a result, the use of carbon dioxide liberated by chemical means will also be acceptable for the euthanasia of fish when compressed carbon dioxide gas cylinders cannot be used. Individuals who have demonstrated competency with this technique to qualified personnel (i.e. aquatic animal veterinarian or his/her designate) should perform the euthanasia of fish by carbon dioxide.

Sodium bicarbonate dosage: (30g/L or 120g/gallon)

Alka-Seltzer ® dosage: (1 tablet/ 20L or 2 tablets/ 10gallons)
Note: Fish euthanized with sodium bicarbonate or Alka-Seltzer® should not be used for human consumption.

Protocol: Fish should be placed into a container with an appropriate volume of water that will provide free movement of fish to be euthanized. Water should then be saturated with carbon dioxide from either a compressed gas cylinder (via the use of an air stone with a moderate flow rate for ~5-10 minutes) or by dissolving enough sodium bicarbonate or Alka-Seltzer® into the water (via the dosages previously provided). Fish should be removed only after ten minutes have passed since their last observed opercular movements (respiration) have occurred.

4. Chilling of Tropical species- The 1993 and 2000 Reports of the AVMA Panel on Euthanasia concludes that cooling to 4°C will decrease metabolism and facilitate handling of poikilothermic species. This method by itself should only be used to facilitate handling, and it does not constitute an acceptable method of euthanasia since there is no evidence that it reduces pain or is clinically efficacious. However, the panel does not discuss chilling to 4°C as a method for euthanasia for tropical species. Because tropical fish species, (i.e. zebrafish, medaka, and platyfish), have minimal to no physiologic adaptation mechanism for adjusting to cold (4°C) water, cooling to 4°C should be considered an acceptable method of euthanasia since the rapid decrease in temperature from 26°C (or higher) to 4°C induces rapid loss of consciousness and is lethal to these species. Fish euthanized by this method should not come in direct contact with the ice, because this may cause thermal burns and induce pain, but rather the ice should be added to a lowered amount of water for a contact time of 20 minutes.

Protocol: In a container of an appropriate size for the number and size of fish to be euthanized, place a small volume of water that will still allow the fish to freely move about. To this volume of water add four times the volume of ice such that there is a 1:4 ratio of water to ice. Allow the fish to remain in ice-water bath for 20 minutes prior to removing. Afterwards, transfer the fish to the freezer for storage prior to disposal.


B. Secondary euthanasia methods for fish (methods that cannot be used alone and must be followed by an adjunct method to ensure death):

1. Sharp blow to the head- This method must be followed by exsanguination (via severing the large branchial vessels or large caudal tail vessels) or decapitation (via the use of a sharp blade).

2. Alternating or Direct electrical current- This method must be followed by exsanguination (via severing the large branchial vessels or large caudal tail vessels) or decapitation (via the use of a sharp blade). [Note: the use of electrical current (electrofishing) must follow the protocol/guidelines provided by the Marine Resources Division of the Washington State Department of Fish and Wildlife.]

3. Chilling of Non-tropical species in salt water - Since non-tropical species have adaptive mechanisms to handle decreased temperature ranges, the use of chilling to 4°C (without direct contact of the fish to the ice) must be followed by decapitation. However, if non-tropical species are exposed to chilled salt water (-10°C) or fresh water at a temperature significantly less than 4°C (i.e. 0°C) decapitation is not necessary 10 minutes after the observed cessation of opercular movements.

Euthanasia Policy References:

1. Canadian Council on Animal Care, Guide Vol. 1 (2nd Ed.). 1993. Chapter XII – Euthanasia.
2. Report of the AVMA Panel of Euthanasia. 2000. Journal of American Veterinary Medical Association 218(5): 670-696.
3. Report of the AVMA Panel of Euthanasia. 1993. Journal of American Veterinary Medical Association 202(2): 230-249.
4. Stoskopf, M.K. 1993. Fish Medicine. W.B. Saunders Co. Philadelphia.
5. The Guide for the Care and Use of Laboratory Animals. 1996. National Academy Press, Washington, D.C.
6. Noga, E.J. 1996. Fish Diseases: Diagnosis and Treatment. Mosby-YearBook, Inc, St. Louis.
7. Casebolt, D.B., D.J. Speare, and B.S. Horney. 1998 Care and Use of Fish as Laboratory Animals: Current State of Knowledge. Lab Animal Science 48(2): 124-136.
8. Burns R, McMahan B. Euthanasia methods for ectothermic vertebrates. In: Bonagura JD, ed.
Continuing veterinary therapy XII. Philadelphia: WB Saunders Co. 1995:1379-1381.
9. Guidelines for Use of Fishes in Field Research. In: Fisheries, Vol. 13, No. 2, p. 16-23
10. Electrofishing Boat Operation and Maintenance Policy. 1996. Marine Resources Division of the Washington State Department of Fish and Wildlife.
11. Electrofishing Guidelines for Stream Typing. 1996. Marine Resources Division of the Washington State Department of Fish and Wildlife.
12. USFW 241 FW 6, Electrofishing Guidelines. 1992. http://policy.fws.gov/241fw6.html
13. Kolz, A.L., A. Temple, and D. Lam. 1998. Principles and Techniques of Electrofishing. U.S. Fish and
Wildlife Service National Conservation Training Session.

Killing him might be really premature. Four years is old for a betta, very old, but he might not be ready to give up yet.

I only kill my fish as a last resort or when I suspect fish TB. If the fish seems to be seriously suffering from ulcers, body rot, ect. or if treatment has gone on an excessive amount of time with no improvement, I use clove oil.

You could try feeding him frozen/thawed peas that have been shelled and frozen food only for a week, see if that doesn't clean out his system and change his water more frequently.

If you haven’t killed him yet, are those his only symptoms? If so, it could be a simple case of constipation and/or SBD – Swim Bladder Disorder, which is quite common is fish.

If he is experiencing other problems, such as swelling and pine coning of the scales, that could be a sign bacteria is attacking him internally or his kidneys have failed. If he is pine-coning, euth him right away, there’s almost NEVER anything you can do at that point and after that he’s just suffering needlessly.

regardless of your decision jo... i know you will make the best one for your fish. i send hugs and love to your all... (((hugs)))

I am really sorry about that. My fish are just as high in the rankings as our other pets to me; the people who see fish as minor pets, are the ones who don't know how to keep them alive long enough to get attached, usually.
I am not sure, but those symptoms sound like a swim bladder problem.. though, I am not sure how bettas work internally, as they are labyrinth fish. I had a goldfish for years (she was a huge telescope eye, even bred for me) and she started doing that; I was meaning to euthanize her, but she died by getting stuck between a plant and the tank side; just couldn't get free.

Ginevive, what food were you giving her? I've noticed mine get "flip over" as it's called in goldies a lot (where they roll onto their back and float), when fed food with ethoxyquin in it. Others can get it when fed pellet type foods, though I've never had this issue. Switching to Hikari Goldfish flakes would have probably fixed the problem.

Sorry you lost her though. Goldfish are dumb. Cute, but dumb. It's a fact. lol ;3 Mine are as retarded as the next so I've made sure there's so way they can kill themselves in their pond.

And yes, bettas are also prone to SBD also.

Okay I haven't put Ping down yet (couldn't find clove oil yesterday at the store I was at). Let me describe what's going on. Ping isn't able to rise easily from the bottom of his tank. He's just sort of laying against this gravel and the glass. This is not normal behaviour for him at all, up until week before last he was his usual active self and would come to the surface to feed or follow my finger around the glass. When he tries to rise to eat he is obviously struggling hard, his body almost bends in half and he rises off kilter, almost looking as if he will go over on his back from the effort (but does not). Most days he is just not bothering to try to eat at all which is why I'm concerned he will simply starve to death.

I've had Ping 3.5 years. I have no idea how old he was when my kids bought him for me. My understanding is that beta's live 3 to 5 years so I'm assuming this is simply old age catching up with him. His diet is the same as it's always been and there's been no changes to his environment. This just seems to have come on in the last week or two and quite honestly I was expecting him to die naturally last week. When he didn't I became concerned that I needed to intervene so he didn't die slowly from starvation.

So it's more like his writhing and flipping when he struggles to get a breath of air, rather than a battle for the surface? If there anything on his body or patches of discoloration? Fuzz (sometimes it's faint and hard to see), grey spots, tiny specks of white or gold? Does his body look more bloated than is normal, any pine coning of the scales, protruding eyes? Red on his fins, lesions? I’d siphon some water from his tank and do a partial WC after testing your water just in case. You might have had an ammonia or nitrite spike (depending on you WC cycle and how big the tank is and all that jazz), which could have made him ill.

A lot of the time, swim bladder issues can be fixed with time and effort, but the SBD may be another symptom of something else.

Doing some studying for our betta....


The plish or goldfish bowls are baaaaad news for bettas. They need to be kept in tanks w/the circulating, warm water and fresh water changes like other tropicals. Live food is better.

Bernie was getting the tiny Hikari betta pellets. At the time, I didn't know live food would be better for him. Once I learned the plish bowl was wrong I moved him.

Whatever happens Jo, :hug: to you and comfort in Ping's passing (if he did).

?


R

Jo, I wish there was something more I could tell you, but I think the others covered it. I wish you luck with the situation.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Styx

Ginevive, what food were you giving her? .

---

I was feeding the hikari pellets; sadly though, she had the symptoms before I got her. She was a sympathy-induced buy.. she was not as bad when I got her and actually lived a few years, but now I know hat this is pretty-m uch not a correctible disease once it sets in, right? I have heard of someone who will surgically "install" something to weigh them down, but I could not put her through that.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by frankykeno

Thank you so much Jamie. I'm going out today so I will pick up the ingredients to euthanize old Ping. Silly to be so upset about a dang fish but he's been a lovely little fellow, very interactive and friendly for a fish and I just can't stand watching him go this way. Even a fish shouldn't have to die inch by inch. Hugs bro, thanks for the link.

---

Your such a caring person (unlike many I know/met/heard) And I thank you for you generosity to all living things:oops:

sweety314, you can also do a NPT - Natural Planted Tank. Because bettas dislike a current, they like standing water or extremely low currents best. NPTs if you have them set up right will keep the nitrites, ammonia, ect down because the plants consume them while the fish produce them. Though you gotta watch out for those plants. I had one full of beautiful crypts, long story short they melted, ammonia spiked, my fish got sick.

Ginevive, sometimes it's a minor issue like too much gas in the gut or from overeating. Sometimes it's an internal infection which you would notice as it spreads outwards and that is very hard to treat. Other times it's chronic but does not affect the fish's life, a serious fall, attack, or previous illness could damage that organ and that's never fixable. I've heard about putting in a weight, but nothing more than like someone mentioning it so I don't know if it works. And actually, some fish as they develope when they're fry, get deformed swim bladders, but most breeders cull these "sliders".

But if it's caused by a bacterial infection or other disease, you're right, 90% of the time it's fatal because by the time it starts affecting how they swim, they're nearly dead already.

I'm terribly sorry for what you are going through. I work at a fish store, and I have to go through it with rescue fish often. :( I'm going to throw my 2 cents in here. I'm a fish and aquarium specialist and have cared for and maintained tanks all my life. Have you tried using any aquarium salt in your water. . . I always recommend trying that before you put your fish to sleep (only if it's safe for the species). I would recommend a teaspoon for every 2 litres. However, I am really sorry to say that it might not work and Ping might be too far gone. It's a hard decision to make, and it kills me everytime. If the fish has the will, it's hard to choose to take their life :(. I also must admit that I have always used the freezer method for all of my tropical fish. The temperature will cool them down enough that they go to sleep. I could never use vodka on any fish for fear of burning them, but that's just me. Normally, I place the fish in a large deli container filled halfway with water. I then place it in the freezer, and within 20 minutes, they have gone to sleep. I personally think that there is no sure fire way to prevent pain when putting a fish to sleep, because we have no idea how they feel to begin with. Again. . . I'm very sorry for the pain you're going through. . . fish are family too. :(

Do not use salt on dropsy however (swelling of the body and pineconing) it will make it worse really fast. Use aquarium salt for finrot, ich, velvet, ect. Works great in combo with meds for external parasites.

Let us know if Ping made it or not.