Incubation Links?

OK, first let me apologize if this is a horrible repeat. I spent quite a bit of time searching through pages of past threads...but didn't really find all the information I was looking for....so here goes...

Does anyone have a past thread...or a link to a page...that gives good details on taking BP eggs from "just layed" to "healthy hatchlings eating their first meal"...?

Some specific things I am looking for would include:

Proper incubator temperature (I found some threads that hit on 89 degrees, so I assume this is my number)

Proper incubator humidity

Besides having those 2 correct..do you do anything else while the eggs incubate?

You notice the eggs are starting to hatch...do you do anything or just let them finish?

And finally....once the eggs are hatched...what next? I have seen some reference to bathing the newborns...but bathing in what? And once they are "bathed" and in their own tub...how long do you leave them alone before trying to feed them?

Sorry so long...just looking for a good comprehensive source of information on producing happy, healthy hatchlings once the eggs are laid.

Thanks! :cool:

Brian

Start here:

http://www.ballpython.ca/gallery.html

Great link...and lots of cool pics too...thanks!

Their pages confirmed the 89 degrees. They also said they "monitor the humidity" of their incubator...but didn't state what % they were monitoring it for.

They also said once the first egg in a clutch starts to hatch...they slit the rest...but the link to 'cutting eggs" was under construction, so I couldn't get any information on how or why to do this.

On an off note...I love their genetics links explaining all the morphs and the recessive/co-dominant/dominant scenarios!

-BT

Can't think of any links off-hand, so here's a "in a nutshell" response.


BP eggs need: 89 degrees (or so), 100% humidity (or as high as possible), oxygen. The way in which you provide these criteria are up to you, but most breeders use a stable incubator and plastic containers for egg boxes. Moist vermiculite (soak and squeeze out all excess water) for a medium will keep the humidity high in the egg box, and air exchange every few days will provide enough oxygen while keeping humidity high. Don't turn the eggs, set them up in the orientation that they were laid.

Babies will pip and come out on thier own when they are ready. When you set up the hatchlings, no need to "bathe" them in anything, just make sure to keep the humidity high (I use moist paper towels) until they shed the first time. They will take thier first meal after this shed.

BP eggs are fairly hardy, but staying close to these guidelines will ensure good results. This is a crash course, but I think I covered all the major points.

-Evan

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Evan Jamison

Can't think of any links off-hand, so here's a "in a nutshell" response.


BP eggs need: 89 degrees (or so), 100% humidity (or as high as possible), oxygen. The way in which you provide these criteria are up to you, but most breeders use a stable incubator and plastic containers for egg boxes. Moist vermiculite (soak and squeeze out all excess water) for a medium will keep the humidity high in the eggs box, and air exchange every few days will provide enough oxygen while keeping humidity high. Don't turn the eggs, set them up in the orientation that they were laid.

Babies will pip and come out on thier own when they are ready. When you set up the hatchlings, no need to "bath" them in anything, just make sure to keep the humidity high (I use moist paper towels) until they shed the first time. They will take thier first meal after this shed.

BP eggs are fairly hardy, but staying close to these guidelines will ensure good results. This is a crash course, but I think I covered all the major points.

-Evan

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Evan-

Much appreciated! Was exactly what I needed. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't over-looking any "little known steps" or anything.

Thanks again!! :)

-BT

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Evan Jamison

Can't think of any links off-hand, so here's a "in a nutshell" response.


BP eggs need: 89 degrees (or so), 100% humidity (or as high as possible), oxygen. The way in which you provide these criteria are up to you, but most breeders use a stable incubator and plastic containers for egg boxes. Moist vermiculite (soak and squeeze out all excess water) for a medium will keep the humidity high in the eggs box, and air exchange every few days will provide enough oxygen while keeping humidity high. Don't turn the eggs, set them up in the orientation that they were laid.

Babies will pip and come out on thier own when they are ready. When you set up the hatchlings, no need to "bathe" them in anything, just make sure to keep the humidity high (I use moist paper towels) until they shed the first time. They will take thier first meal after this shed.

BP eggs are fairly hardy, but staying close to these guidelines will ensure good results. This is a crash course, but I think I covered all the major points.

-Evan

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That is why you are my hero! Good post brutha...

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Originally Posted by jglass38

That is why you are my hero! Good post brutha...

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Ahhh, you just gave me goose-bumps :happycry:

-Evan

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Evan Jamison

Ahhh, you just gave me goose-bumps :happycry:

-Evan

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Were they the creepy type that I normally give to the ladies?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jglass38

Were they the creepy type that I normally give to the ladies?

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No they were the good type, you know the kind you could sand a piece of oak furniture with.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Evan Jamison

No they were the good type, you know the kind you could sand a piece of oak furniture with.

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Suhhhhweeeet!

New Questions: As for keeping the humidity up... will the vermiculite do that for the enitire 2 months (after the intial moisture is applied) or do you have to do it once a week or something. And if so how do you proceed to wet it with the eggs in the way? Isn't it true you cannot "mist" or spray eggs with anything?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Kilo

New Questions: As for keeping the humidity up... will the vermiculite do that for the enitire 2 months (after the intial moisture is applied) or do you have to do it once a week or something. And if so how do you proceed to wet it with the eggs in the way?

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Depending on how air tight the egg box is, and how often you open it, you may need to add a little water during the incubation period. I normally spray water into the corners of the box if it needs a boost (the eggs will start to dent in prematurely).

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Kilo

Isn't it true you cannot "mist" or spray eggs with anything?

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Right, you shouldn't get any water directly on the eggs themselves. A little probalby won't do much, but prolonged contact can cause problems with the shells.

-Evan

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Kilo

New Questions: As for keeping the humidity up... will the vermiculite do that for the enitire 2 months (after the intial moisture is applied) or do you have to do it once a week or something. And if so how do you proceed to wet it with the eggs in the way? Isn't it true you cannot "mist" or spray eggs with anything?

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I also remember reading a post that suggested putting a container of water in the bottom of the incubator...stating that the heated water would help recover the temperature after the door has been opened and closed. I would assume this would help humidity also...any truth to either of these? :cool:

-BT

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Originally Posted by bjthomps

...any truth to either of these? :cool:

-BT

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I keep a tub of water at the bottom of my incubator (converted fridge) mainly to keep temps more stable, but it does raise the humidity in the entire incubator too. So.....yes :D.

-Evan

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Evan Jamison

I keep a tub of water at the bottom of my incubator (converted fridge) mainly to keep temps more stable, but it does raise the humidity in the entire incubator too. So.....yes :D.

-Evan

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Evan, thank you so much for your posts, this is exactly what he has in mind...turning a old fridge into an incubator. Thank you sir. :sunny: