lighting

I know Bp's are nocturnal, so what? Do I keep on a light that gives off no heat during the day and at night put on it's heat lamp?

I'm not sure I understand the question. If you have a nighttime heatlamp, why would you change it during the day for something that didn't put out heat?

You need to provide cool side temps of 82-84, and warm side temps of 92-94 constantly. Most people use under the tank heating to accomplish this. Is the heat lamp your only source of heat?

Make sure not to have the bp exposed to white light 24/7. ;)

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Originally Posted by tigerlily

You need to provide cool side temps of 82-84, and warm side temps of 92-94 constantly. Most people use under the tank heating to accomplish this. Is the heat lamp your only source of heat?

Make sure not to have the bp exposed to white light 24/7. ;)

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Thats what I mean, a regular light bulb type light. Would 40watt put off enough heat? My question is since they're nocturnal, do I keep the white light on during the day land turn it off at night?

If you're using a white light for heat during the day, you would have to replace it with something else at night that would provide the same heat without the light. A much easier option would simply be to use the same "nightlight" all the time.


And a 40 watt bulb will not provide the kind of heat you need to achieve optimum temperatures and gradient. You should look for a UTH (Under Tank Heater) and a means to control the amount of heat it puts out (either a T-stat or rheostat/dimmerswitch). If your enclosure is in a particularly cool room, you may need some type of bulb or second UTH to warm the "cool" side of your gradient.

However you go about it, it should be set up to stay the same day and night.

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Originally Posted by JLC

If you're using a white light for heat during the day, you would have to replace it with something else at night that would provide the same heat without the light. A much easier option would simply be to use the same "nightlight" all the time.


And a 40 watt bulb will not provide the kind of heat you need to achieve optimum temperatures and gradient. You should look for a UTH (Under Tank Heater) and a means to control the amount of heat it puts out (either a T-stat or rheostat/dimmerswitch). If your enclosure is in a particularly cool room, you may need some type of bulb or second UTH to warm the "cool" side of your gradient.

However you go about it, it should be set up to stay the same day and night.

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Oh alright...he's going to be my first snake. So, are you talking a 100watt lightbulb, then at night turn that off and use one of those blacklight type lights that give off heat but no light?

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Originally Posted by Gizm0BP

Oh alright...he's going to be my first snake. So, are you talking a 100watt lightbulb, then at night turn that off and use one of those blacklight type lights that give off heat but no light?

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I'm not mentioning a specific wattage of anything, because I have no idea what kind of environment/set-up it will be in and can't begin to predict how well it will heat.

What I'm trying to say is to NOT use a white lightbulb at all.

Here, read our care sheet:
http://www.ball-pythons.net/modules....warticle&id=52

And hopefully that will give you an idea of how to set up your enclosure. The very BEST thing you can do is to get it set up ahead of time, so YOU can know what works and what doesn't. Once you get it working so that it maintains a proper gradient and humidity, THEN buy your snake and his new home will be all ready for him. :)

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Originally Posted by JLC

I'm not mentioning a specific wattage of anything, because I have no idea what kind of environment/set-up it will be in and can't begin to predict how well it will heat.

What I'm trying to say is to NOT use a white lightbulb at all.

Here, read our care sheet:
http://www.ball-pythons.net/modules....warticle&id=52

And hopefully that will give you an idea of how to set up your enclosure. The very BEST thing you can do is to get it set up ahead of time, so YOU can know what works and what doesn't. Once you get it working so that it maintains a proper gradient and humidity, THEN buy your snake and his new home will be all ready for him. :)

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I know, what I read there is what I ment.

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Originally Posted by Gizm0BP

Oh alright...he's going to be my first snake. So, are you talking a 100watt lightbulb, then at night turn that off and use one of those blacklight type lights that give off heat but no light?

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If you want to use a heat lamp, find one of the infared (or red) bulbs and use it 24/7. Its totally ok that the snake doesn't have a bright light above them during the day- I actually think they prefer the security of low lighting all of the time, even during the day.

If you can give us the size tank your bp will be going in and the temperature of the room where the tank will be, we can give you a pretty good idea on what wattage bulb you should use.

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Originally Posted by elevatethis

If you want to use a heat lamp, find one of the infared (or red) bulbs and use it 24/7. Its totally ok that the snake doesn't have a bright light above them during the day- I actually think they prefer the security of low lighting all of the time, even during the day.

If you can give us the size tank your bp will be going in and the temperature of the room where the tank will be, we can give you a pretty good idea on what wattage bulb you should use.

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Right now he'll have to be in a 10gallon. But in a couple days after I clean and starilize my 55gall he'll be in there.

Okay so you're clear on the whole regular white light bulb being a poor idea for a heating source right?

How big is this new BP going to be? A 55 gallon tank is way too big for a baby BP plus setting it up only to move it two days later is causing a lot of unneeded stress on your new snake. Why not get one after you have a proper setup ready and the temps/humidity issues have been dealt with?

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Originally Posted by frankykeno

Okay so you're clear on the whole regular white light bulb being a poor idea for a heating source right?

How big is this new BP going to be? A 55 gallon tank is way too big for a baby BP plus setting it up only to move it two days later is causing a lot of unneeded stress on your new snake. Why not get one after you have a proper setup ready and the temps/humidity issues have been dealt with?

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I'm doing the setup right now. I have everything but the lighting, and i'm getting the lighting in about 20 minutes. And who said i'm getting him now? I'm gunna get him tomorrow when I have the money. I only have money for the bulb.

I'm really unclear on what your setup plans are. That 55 gallon will work for your bp when he is larger, however, a baby will be somewhat intimidated by such a large space and may not be able to find heat, water, etc as a result. Ball pythons will choose security over warmth, so if he shacks up on the cool end, it may be some time before it gets the nerve to seek out the warm side of the cage and will suffer in the cooler temperatures.

If you have to use the 10 gallon, I would use that until your bp passes about 2.5' in length or 500 grams (over 1 lb or so) in weight. Once you get him established and eating well, move him to the bigger tank.

A 40w red bulb on a 10 gallon tank in a 72 degree room *should* get the tank up to about 90-92. Don't place the tank anywhere near a draft, window, door, or cold floor.

Is this in an area that doesn't recieve any ambient light? Generally, that is enough for most snakes. Will this be in a windowless room?

As already stated, I would make sure your tank is up and running for a minimum of 48 hours. Be sure to measure your temps digitally, and to provide stable temps. If you're set on a specific snake, I'd ask about purchasing it and having them hold it for you until you are set up and go to go. ;)

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Originally Posted by elevatethis

I'm really unclear on what your setup plans are. That 55 gallon will work for your bp when he is larger, however, a baby will be somewhat intimidated by such a large space and may not be able to find heat, water, etc as a result. Ball pythons will choose security over warmth, so if he shacks up on the cool end, it may be some time before it gets the nerve to seek out the warm side of the cage and will suffer in the cooler temperatures.

If you have to use the 10 gallon, I would use that until your bp passes about 2.5' in length or 500 grams (over 1 lb or so) in weight. Once you get him established and eating well, move him to the bigger tank.

A 40w red bulb on a 10 gallon tank in a 72 degree room *should* get the tank up to about 90-92. Don't place the tank anywhere near a draft, window, door, or cold floor.

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I'll just keep him in the 10 then. Also I live in the hot part of the house. Also, I live in Florida and I have a dragon in my room so its already hot in my room.

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Originally Posted by Gizm0BP

I'll just keep him in the 10 then. Also I live in the hot part of the house. Also, I live in Florida and I have a dragon in my room so its already hot in my room.

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Sounds great. How warm exactly is it in your room? 75, 80? I'd start with a 40 watt bulb and see what your temps do. Baby balls really like ambient temps around 84-85, keeps them warm and hungry. As long as your warm side temps aren't going over 92-94, your set. 10 gallons can be tricky as they tend to be either too warm or too cold, heavily influenced by the temperature of the room the cage is in. Many new keepers greatly underestimate how much the room temperature actually does effect the cage temps.

Also, babies grow like crazy. It won't be long before he'll be out of the 10 gallon. 3-6 months at the longest.

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Originally Posted by elevatethis

Sounds great. How warm exactly is it in your room? 75, 80? I'd start with a 40 watt bulb and see what your temps do. Baby balls really like ambient temps around 84-85, keeps them warm and hungry. As long as your warm side temps aren't going over 92-94, your set. 10 gallons can be tricky as they tend to be either too warm or too cold, heavily influenced by the temperature of the room the cage is in. Many new keepers greatly underestimate how much the room temperature actually does effect the cage temps.

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I'd say around that. During the winter it doesn't change much either :)

Post some pics when you're all set up!

Something else to put on your shopping list....at target and walmart in the hardware sections, they sell Acu-rite digital thermometers that measure 2 temperatures (one in the unit, one from a probe) and the humidity level. In FL I think you'll have it easier than most of us, but its a good tool to have so you know exactly whats going on in the cages. You can use it for your dragon and ball python interchangably as it doesn't need to be permanently mounted.

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Originally Posted by elevatethis

Post some pics when you're all set up!

Something else to put on your shopping list....at target and walmart in the hardware sections, they sell Acu-rite digital thermometers that measure 2 temperatures (one in the unit, one from a probe) and the humidity level. In FL I think you'll have it easier than most of us, but its a good tool to have so you know exactly whats going on in the cages. You can use it for your dragon and ball python interchangably as it doesn't need to be permanently mounted.

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I have several of those. Have one for my dragon and I had one for my Iggy. I have a nice piece of driftwood and a hidebox that's in the tank right now. I'll post some picks when I get him...guess what? His cage is right on my desk. He's gunna be right next to daddy :)

I have a 75watt infared lightbulb in there right now. Do you think that will be OK? Also, what is the interval I should turn it on and turn it off?

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Originally Posted by Gizm0BP

I have a 75watt infared lightbulb in there right now. Do you think that will be OK? Also, what is the interval I should turn it on and turn it off?

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Just so I know when do I turn off his light?

You need to do whatever you can to maintain steady and consistant temperatures 24/7. Go to Home Depot and get a Lutron Credenza lamp dimmer(some are $8 and some are $10). No wiring needed, just plug the dimmer into the wall and plug the lamp into the dimmer, and move the control up and down as needed to maintain your 92-94 on the warm side and 82-84 on the cool.

How is your humidity? If you are only using a lamp for heating, I can't imagine it being very good. They just aren't a very effective means of heating a screen-topped aquarium. Your snake is going to suffer for it and won't be able to shed properly. Undertank heating is the way to go with terrestrial reptiles. The heating pad needs to be on a GOOD thermostat so your snake doesn't overheat or get too cold. Aquarium housing is very hard to heat as glass doesn't retain heat well. The screen lid doesn't help much either as it lets all the humidity and heat escape. If you can get a small piece of plexiglas too while you are at Home Depot/Lowe's, you can cover most of the screen top with that, and just drill enough holes so your heat/humidity stay IN the tank and not escape.

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Originally Posted by SatanicIntention

You need to do whatever you can to maintain steady and consistant temperatures 24/7. Go to Home Depot and get a Lutron Credenza lamp dimmer(some are $8 and some are $10). No wiring needed, just plug the dimmer into the wall and plug the lamp into the dimmer, and move the control up and down as needed to maintain your 92-94 on the warm side and 82-84 on the cool.

How is your humidity? If you are only using a lamp for heating, I can't imagine it being very good. They just aren't a very effective means of heating a screen-topped aquarium. Your snake is going to suffer for it and won't be able to shed properly. Undertank heating is the way to go with terrestrial reptiles. The heating pad needs to be on a GOOD thermostat so your snake doesn't overheat or get too cold. Aquarium housing is very hard to heat as glass doesn't retain heat well. The screen lid doesn't help much either as it lets all the humidity and heat escape. If you can get a small piece of plexiglas too while you are at Home Depot/Lowe's, you can cover most of the screen top with that, and just drill enough holes so your heat/humidity stay IN the tank and not escape.

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I have one of those things to check humidity...what should the comfort zone be for them?


As for the heat lamp, I should just keep it on 24/7?




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His humidity is normal...it could use a little more but the caresheet says anywhere between 50%-60%.


As far for temps..I gotta check.

I guess I am not seeing where the confusing part is.

You do WHATEVER you have to do to maintain steady and CONSISTENT temperatures and humidity *24/7*. If that means getting an infrared heat light from the pet store and keeping it on day and night, then that is what you will have to do.

Ball Pythons are nocturnal and white light can stress them out. Soft ambient light or an infrared heat light/or ceramic heat emitter is your best bet during the day, and during the night either infrared or ceramic heat emitter.

Humidity can fluctuate between 50-60%, even in the upper 40's is fine for shorter periods of time. You want slightly humid, not a wet cage. Since you are using a heat lamp, plexiglas(cut to fit the inner lip of the screen top) covering the majority of the screen will help combat the constant battle of keeping humidity and heat in when using your type of set up.

I hope this has helped with the confusion.

Humidity should be 50-60% during non-shedding times, pushed to around 70% from the first sign (usually a pinkish belly) that the shed cycle is beginning until it is complete (over a week later). Your heating source/cycle should be whatever it takes to provide a cool side temp of 80-84 degrees and a warm side temp of 90-94 degrees 24 hours a day, 365 days a year unless you are cooling for breeding.


Perhaps a review of this link will help you...

http://www.ball-pythons.net/modules....warticle&id=52

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Originally Posted by frankykeno

Humidity should be 50-60% during non-shedding times, pushed to around 70% from the first sign (usually a pinkish belly) that the shed cycle is beginning until it is complete (over a week later). Your heating source/cycle should be whatever it takes to provide a cool side temp of 80-84 degrees and a warm side temp of 90-94 degrees 24 hours a day, 365 days a year unless you are cooling for breeding.


Perhaps a review of this link will help you...

http://www.ball-pythons.net/modules....warticle&id=52

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Ok..Um, how would I increase the humidity?

75w bulb on a 10 gallon....what are your temps in there now?