Rack setup on a budget?

Hey, I'm looking to expand my collection a bit and hopefully get a morph, but before I do anything I need a place to put them. I'm definately done with glass vivs (what a pain) so I would like to get a rack setup going before I get any more snakes. I have never used (or even seen for that matter) a rack setup, so I don't know what to look for. I have used the search function and found a variety of links where I can buy what look to be pretty good pre-built ones. However, I don't have alot of money, and I would rather put my money towards getting some new BPs. By no means do I want to cheap out, but I just can't afford a top of the line setup.

I was thinking it might be best for me to just build my own. I'm very handy with tools and such, and I don't think it would be very hard for me to just build one, especially since at this point I only need a smaller one to hold just a few snakes.

How should I go about doing this? I don't know what I need, so I don't know what to build. What is best to use as tubs? How should heating be handled? I think FlexWatt would be the best from what I have read, but I know nothing about it. Should the sides be open or enclosed? How should I handle ventilation? What materials would be best?

Really, I'm starting at square one here, so if anyone with experience with racks (especially building their own) would be willing to kind of walk me through this, it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
James

Ive built several racks so far, Im on a budget too :) I can help you if you answer me these questions 3

1) What size of snakes do you want this for
2) How many snakes do you want this to hold
3) What is your budget


I would recommend using the 2 size sterilite tubs that are approx 12 and 28 quarts, 12's are small enough for hatchling up to 600 grams, and the 28 are good up until nearly adulthood (3 foot snake, etc)

What I built : http://www.ball-pythons.net/forums/s...ad.php?t=29383


Price List:
Just the Rack + flexwatt, etc

(4) - 1/2" 4'x8' Particle Board - $44
(1) - 3/4" 4'x8' Particle Board - $13
(98) - #6 1 5/8 Drywall Screws- $2
(44) - Feet of 3" Flexwatt - $88
(11) - Extension Cords - $11
(1) - Roll of Foil tape - $10
(1) - Gallon of Paint - $20
(1) - Reflectix Insulation - $8
(2) - 6 outlet power strips - $4
(40) - Staples - $0 (like 20 cents)
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total $200 (wow, to hold 22 - 28 quart tubs!)

Thermostat
(1) - Helix Thermostat (sharing 2 between 2 racks, so 1 per rack avg) $135

Tubs
(22) - 28 quart tubs - $88

Hides + Water bowls
(22) - ceramic glazed bowls $13
(22) - Plastic bowls with hole cut $6


You can make it smaller, and cheaper, or you can buy pre-made melamine shelving. I am not very handy, and I dont have a truck or I would have bought sheets of melamine and cut them myself and then it would have been ideal.

If you use the half inch shelves like I do, they hold up pretty well, but I will probably put in supports eventually just to make sure in the center of each shelf.

Thanks for the replies. I will probably only be using it for three snakes for now, and maybe a couple more at the later end of this year. Since I don't have the snakes just yet, I don't know their sizes, but probably around 700-1000g, along with my small dude (don't know his weight, no scale at the moment). Space is an issue for me here, so I can't really expand the way that I want to, but I eventually would like to have 5 here until I can move into a bigger place, at which point I would just build a bigger rack.

My budget is fairly nonexistant. I mean, I have money, but every penny I spend takes away from my BP fund (which isn't all that big to begin with) so I am looking to spend as little as possible.

I started out with a few sheets of plywood and some screws. I can't take alot of the credit...my step dad really helped get it functional LOL. But its not to hard. Look at the material you have available and what others recommend. Your rack doesn't have to be expensive just make sure you put quality time into it. You want those future morphs to live well and be healthy, comfortable, and safe.

Thanks guys. I kind of have a basic idea in my mind as to what I'm going to do.

However, I still have a few questions.

First, what are the advantages of lids vs. lidless? I am fine using either method. I am leaning towards lidless, unless there are any reasons why I shouldn't. The extra efford in building it isn't a problem for me. However, I am wondering if there is any certain way I should go about building it to be secure.

Secondly, can someone explain that flexwatt stuff to me? How does it work? Do I need anything special for it? Do I have to worry about melting the plastic?

Third, how should I go about regulating the temperature? I am assuming that a thermostat is a must, and will probably also be my most expensive purchase. What direction should I go in terms of a thermostat.

Thanks Guys.

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Originally Posted by JamesMX39

Thanks guys. I kind of have a basic idea in my mind as to what I'm going to do.

However, I still have a few questions.

First, what are the advantages of lids vs. lidless? I am fine using either method. I am leaning towards lidless, unless there are any reasons why I shouldn't. The extra efford in building it isn't a problem for me. However, I am wondering if there is any certain way I should go about building it to be secure.

Secondly, can someone explain that flexwatt stuff to me? How does it work? Do I need anything special for it? Do I have to worry about melting the plastic?

Third, how should I go about regulating the temperature? I am assuming that a thermostat is a must, and will probably also be my most expensive purchase. What direction should I go in terms of a thermostat.

Thanks Guys.

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It sounds like a 5 slot adult rack might be good for you, but youd have to put in plenty of hides for the smaller snake.

Lidded
Pro: very secure, you don't have to build your rack to exact precision, and you control humidity/airflow with holes in the tub/lid

Con: You can't just slide the tub partway out and check the tub for sheds/feces/etc, you either have to take the lid off, or in some cases slide the tub out and then take the lid off

Lidless
Pro: Easy to access the tub and the snake.

Con: Your rack has to be precise and not leave much of a gap or else escape is possible

If you can build a precise rack (stacking tubs and then shelves with a spacer is an easy way to insure this), then I would go with lidless


Flexwatt.... It has two conductive strips, one running lengthwise down each side. You cut it to length, melt the plastic off of the conductive edge, and solder, or you can just buy a clip that punctures the plastic and attaches the power cord. Power cord can be a 6' extension cord with the plug cut off (usually less than $1). You plug these into power controlled by your thermostat and usually put the probe on the center shelf of your rack for the averages. With a thermostat you wont get anywhere hot enough to melt any plastic, Im not even sure flexwatt gets hot enough to melt plastic even at max temps (after all, it IS encased in plastic :)


Thermostat is a must. I use grounded helix t-stats. They are proportional, and give your snakes the most regulated temps. Consider the cost divided by the number of snakes. For $135 , for 5 snakes, thats only 27$ per snake, the cost of a cheap thermostat :)

Another option is purchasing a raw ranco or johnsons, ~$50 and wiring it yourself. That is much more affordable but instead of 92 degrees constant on the snakes hot side, you will get swings ~ 91-93 depending. Its not the end of the world, but the helix, or any other proportional t-stat is a more constant method by providing variant power so that it stays at a constant 92 for you

If you're interested in purchasing, I recently purchased this one: http://www.herpenclosures.com and LOVE it!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SnakeySnakeSnake

It sounds like a 5 slot adult rack might be good for you, but youd have to put in plenty of hides for the smaller snake.

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I think that you are right.

I will build a 5 slot, lidless, adult rack and use flexwatt for heating.

If you don't mind, I still have a couple questions about going from there.

1) What size tubs are good for an adult? I will provide hides for the smaller snakes.

2) How much flexwatt should go on the bottom of each tub to maintain a nice gradient?

3) I would assume that the top of the tub would have be flush with the bottom of the shelf above it. Won't this restrict all of the air flow? Should I drill holes in the tubs to allow fresh air to get in?

4) You mentioned using foil tape and insulation. In what areas should this be used, and in what quantities?

5) If you answered this already, sorry, but I should cover the sides so it gets dark in the back, right? Seems like most of the ones I have seen have the sides enclosed, but as I was looking around I came across a few that weren't.

I think that pretty well covers it. Thanks a ton for all of your help thus far.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JamesMX39

1) What size tubs are good for an adult? I will provide hides for the smaller snakes.

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32qt to 41qt Sterilite is fine for adult balls.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JamesMX39

2) How much flexwatt should go on the bottom of each tub to maintain a nice gradient?

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If you're using 3" or 4" two strips along the back of the 41qt tubs, 1 strip along the back of the 32 qt tubs... (If the tubs are organized in a sideways fashion... (the most space saving design)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JamesMX39

3) I would assume that the top of the tub would have be flush with the bottom of the shelf above it. Won't this restrict all of the air flow? Should I drill holes in the tubs to allow fresh air to get in?

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Yep. Soldering works best... Drilling and the pressure associated with drilling can crack the tubs.. so melting the holes with a soldering iron works best.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JamesMX39

4) You mentioned using foil tape and insulation. In what areas should this be used, and in what quantities?

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As far as the foil tape goes, you can use the foil tape to tape the tstat probe to the flexwatt.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JamesMX39

5) If you answered this already, sorry, but I should cover the sides so it gets dark in the back, right? Seems like most of the ones I have seen have the sides enclosed, but as I was looking around I came across a few that weren't.

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Enclosed racks are usually the most secure, but with hides in the tubs, it doesn't HAVE to be enclosed. Your BPs will enjoy the darker spaces towards the back of the tubs though.

Hope this helps!

Thanks Ken, that is most helpful.

So, you put the thermostat probe on the flexwatt and not actually inside the tub, right? Sorry, this is a whole new ballgame for me.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JamesMX39

Thanks Ken, that is most helpful.

So, you put the thermostat probe on the flexwatt and not actually inside the tub, right? Sorry, this is a whole new ballgame for me.

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Yes, on the flexwatt on the middle shelf. That way you know the max temp the flexwatt is getting, and then you also have to monitor temps in the tubs.

32-41 quart tubs like was mentioned.

I use a 1/8 piece of mdf or melamine as a spacer when building my racks. this leaves a tiny gap for airflow, and then you can add holes as needed. If you make it EXACTLY fit the tubs, then if ANYTHING changes at all, it ends up being tight and a PITA to move in and out.

Still probably need air holes depending on the spacing for ventilation. Normally people put a certain number of holes, and then cover them up, or add more to reach the desired humidity. I know that on my one rack they are at 60% most of the time, I just adjust the humidifier in the room to change my humidity, but I know some cover a few of the holes to raise it.

Okay, I think I have everything figured out except for one thing.

I am going to order my flexwatt stuff, and I don't really know what I will be needing to order. Am I going to want to have these wired in series or paralell? How much should I order? How many connectors will I need? I am planning on using the 41 qt tubs.

I have everything else figured out, but this flexwatt stuff has me thoroughly confused.

Also, as for the thermostats, what does non-proportional mean? I was considering the Johnson or Ranco ones, but they are non-proportional. I can't afford the more expenisive ones at this point so if the cheaper ones will work I will use them until I can afford a better one...

I went out and got everything to build my rack, but I only have $120 left over to get the heating stuff.

Any ideas?

a ranco will work fine. are you going to route one piece of flexwatt through the rack, or make a piece for each shelf?


here are some sites to order flexwatt through

www.reptilebasics.com

www.beanfarm.com


vaughn

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JamesMX39

Okay, I think I have everything figured out except for one thing.

I am going to order my flexwatt stuff, and I don't really know what I will be needing to order. Am I going to want to have these wired in series or paralell? How much should I order? How many connectors will I need? I am planning on using the 41 qt tubs.

I have everything else figured out, but this flexwatt stuff has me thoroughly confused.

Also, as for the thermostats, what does non-proportional mean? I was considering the Johnson or Ranco ones, but they are non-proportional. I can't afford the more expenisive ones at this point so if the cheaper ones will work I will use them until I can afford a better one...

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As far as the flexwatt, you have to consider how you want to heat your rack. Do you want belly heat or back heat? If it's kept in a consistently warm room, you can get away with an 11" strip of Flexwatt down the back of the rack. If not, plan on placing a 3" or 4" strip on each shelf for belly heat. It doesn't really matter if you wire it parallel or in series, but it could be a factor depending on the number of strips and what thermostat you use because of the rated wattage of the thermostat.

A non-proportional should be fine. The difference is tha the non-proportional is essentially an on/off thermostat whereas the proportional will actually regulate the amount of current going to the Flexwatt and keeping it at a more consistent temperature. Expect a temperature fluxtuation of anywhere from 2-5 degrees with a non-proportional, and with a proportional you can expect that range to be within 1 degree.

The room is generally on the cold side, and I was planning on doing belly heat, but should I do back heat as well?

I'm still unsure as to how to wire it up and all. Should I put an 11" strip of flexwatt down the back of the rack, and have it not be on the tubs themselves, or should I get the 3" and put it along the bottom of each tub directly? Or should I put it on the top of the shelf below it so that it isn't in contact with the tub itself?

Sorry, I'm just confused as can be on this whole flexwatt thing. I know that it's what I want to do, but I don't know how to go about doing it.

You probably won't be able to get the temps high enough with just the 11" back heat if your room is cool. If you put the 3" underneath the tubs, you may want to get a proportional thermostat as a N-P would probably get too warm for your snakes as it is just on/off. Depending on your shelves, if you place the FW underneath the shelves, it probably won't be able to warm the tubs enough.

In a cool room, I would go with the 11" down the back and 3" under the tubs connected to a proportional. If you can't afford that, you could probably get away with the 3" on a rheostat and the 11" on a non-proporational thermostat.

snakey snake snake it would seem that u know whats up id like to make a rack to house about 12-18 snakes adult ones and as low cost as possible incluyding aboslutely everything id need what do i think is cost?

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Originally Posted by Ninjapython

snakey snake snake it would seem that u know whats up id like to make a rack to house about 12-18 snakes adult ones and as low cost as possible incluyding aboslutely everything id need what do i think is cost?

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Sorry I havnt built an adult rack yet :) So I dontk now the exact costs.

The actual wood wouldnt be expensive, Im guessing you'd need 12-18 1' pieces of 11" flexwatt, 12-18 tubs, and a thermostat. If I get time I will write up a plan with estimated costs.